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Issue running my HPI RS4 Evo3 Mustang Nitro RC 1/10 scale

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I don't plan to baby mine either... enjoy the new look and hopefully get out soon for some fun bashing. I live in Allentown, PA and lately weather has been crappy... rain all week and windy. Thanks for the chat, see you online and glad to have this open dialog with you.
 
I don't plan to baby mine either... enjoy the new look and hopefully get out soon for some fun bashing. I live in Allentown, PA and lately weather has been crappy... rain all week and windy. Thanks for the chat, see you online and glad to have this open dialog with you.

Great ,I see you started a new thread about your new Baja ,lets transfer over to it!...
 
Mine is brand new, order it a month ago with upgrade aluminum shock towers and exhaust pipe that wraps around to front (if you can picture it)... not the big ass tailpipe that you see hanging off rear. It's got some upgrade components already from factory.

I've tried not to go crazy with upgrades before even breaking it in first tank. It was eBay purchase, offer 590$ As was listed for 649.99$. I think did ok for price....see attach pic of setup
I like the green!

When I had one, I just ran the 5T can muffler. A bit more torque than the smaller stock one, but wasn't overly noisy. I should have just bought a knock off 2 speed for it. For me, it was just too slow for where I ran it. Or seemed slow. Really though, I didn't have many places to run it that I wouldn't just destroy the thing. I think I only drove it maybe 15-20 times. How stupid is that!?!? Spent a small fortune on it brand new and only drive it a handful of times. lol

I had the scorpion "shorty" chassis on mine. Shaved off a couple inches. I liked it more when it was shorter. Smaller turning radius. Also fit on my workbench better. lol
2011-0902-Baja-ScorpionShortyHDFrontShockTower01.webp
 
I like the green!

When I had one, I just ran the 5T can muffler. A bit more torque than the smaller stock one, but wasn't overly noisy. I should have just bought a knock off 2 speed for it. For me, it was just too slow for where I ran it. Or seemed slow. Really though, I didn't have many places to run it that I wouldn't just destroy the thing. I think I only drove it maybe 15-20 times. How stupid is that!?!? Spent a small fortune on it brand new and only drive it a handful of times. lol

I had the scorpion "shorty" chassis on mine. Shaved off a couple inches. I liked it more when it was shorter. Smaller turning radius. Also fit on my workbench better. lol
2011-0902-Baja-ScorpionShortyHDFrontShockTower01.webp

Uh,,,,thats a shorty version?....That looks cool!...:cool:
 
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Just an update on my vehicle. So, I've finally received all the parts to assy. my new clutch (shoes, bell, 2 bearings, 18, 22T pinion gear) and got the vehicle back on the road. Although, I've notice a quicker acceleration and response from the car ~ that's awesome, I still notice the CHIRPING sound transitioning from high to low throttle or idle. Somebody told me that possible that my idle is set too high but I've checked that already; when I put my engine back I've made sure that the gap is 1mm with servo throttle in neutral position with controller centered. When I pull the throttle back to break, the gap doesn't move... that's good thing.

So, what gives? I am out of ideas as to why the chirping noise... it idles fine never stalls on me but again when going from high to low down to probably 10-20% guarantee chirping..

Kevin Chau

Just an update on my vehicle. So, I've finally received all the parts to assy. my new clutch (shoes, bell, 2 bearings, 18, 22T pinion gear) and got the vehicle back on the road. Although, I've notice a quicker acceleration and response from the car ~ that's awesome, I still notice the CHIRPING sound transitioning from high to low throttle or idle. Somebody told me that possible that my idle is set too high but I've checked that already; when I put my engine back I've made sure that the gap is 1mm with servo throttle in neutral position with controller centered. When I pull the throttle back to break, the gap doesn't move... that's good thing.

So, what gives? I am out of ideas as to why the chirping noise... it idles fine never stalls on me but again when going from high to low down to probably 10-20% guarantee chirping..

Kevin Chau
Just an update on my vehicle. So, I've finally received all the parts to assy. my new clutch (shoes, bell, 2 bearings, 18, 22T pinion gear) and got the vehicle back on the road. Although, I've notice a quicker acceleration and response from the car ~ that's awesome, I still notice the CHIRPING sound transitioning from high to low throttle or idle. Somebody told me that possible that my idle is set too high but I've checked that already; when I put my engine back I've made sure that the gap is 1mm with servo throttle in neutral position with controller centered. When I pull the throttle back to break, the gap doesn't move... that's good thing.

So, what gives? I am out of ideas as to why the chirping noise... it idles fine never stalls on me but again when going from high to low down to probably 10-20% guarantee chirping..

Kevin Chau
Guys - this is update for original post here on my HPI RS4 EVO3 star T3.0 engine. It was my fault switching topics from nitro to large scale gas. Again, appreciate your feedback and help diagnosing this problem. I hope it's just a tuning issue, that I can live with and work on.
 
I have heard of a 'chirping' describing a ping Dr the engine. This is related to a tuning issue. I have never experienced this not have I ever seen it in friends rigs so I haven't got more info than that for you. The only thing I can suggest is to make sure you've got your tune down and the engine is running right. That's the only other thing I've heard of that was described as a 'chirp'.
On the happier note, I am glad to hear you've got your clutch set up correctly and you're getting better performance! Great news!!!
 
Just an update on my vehicle. So, I've finally received all the parts to assy. my new clutch (shoes, bell, 2 bearings, 18, 22T pinion gear) and got the vehicle back on the road. Although, I've notice a quicker acceleration and response from the car ~ that's awesome, I still notice the CHIRPING sound transitioning from high to low throttle or idle. Somebody told me that possible that my idle is set too high but I've checked that already; when I put my engine back I've made sure that the gap is 1mm with servo throttle in neutral position with controller centered. When I pull the throttle back to break, the gap doesn't move... that's good thing.

So, what gives? I am out of ideas as to why the chirping noise... it idles fine never stalls on me but again when going from high to low down to probably 10-20% guarantee chirping..

Kevin Chau



Guys - this is update for original post here on my HPI RS4 EVO3 star T3.0 engine. It was my fault switching topics from nitro to large scale gas. Again, appreciate your feedback and help diagnosing this problem. I hope it's just a tuning issue, that I can live with and work on.

You may never really get rid of the birdy!....But ,glad you got it going to where it runs & idles ,that to me is good enough as long
as the engine stays at a decent temp!...:thumbs-up:

As far as the baja thing ,its your thread!...:D
 
Yeah although it might not be clutch issue it was on its way out anyway but wow... very quick response now. Ok, so chirping or so called "pinging", to me it's definitely seem like chirp. I'll post another vid next time run it. Like you said, I might just ignore it but I am more of perfectionist in that sense have to get it worked out. I've checked temp using my handy dandy infrared hand held and it's below 200 deg f. Maybe it's too rich, hum... I wish I have 1/2 day to play with tuning but tough even on weekends to find time anymore.

Have a good weekend!

Guys, I've reached out to HPI help center as well and tech saw my vid that I posted here.

He said the following, "Lowering the idle, so the gap is smaller, this will calm down the engine. So you will need to turn the needle counter clockwise. If you do go too far with it then the car will cut, but then you will need to just simple turn it little more clockwise, and then it should be set right. It is also worth checking the trim on the transmitter is set correctly as well.
I would leave the HSN needle as it is at the minute".

Well, I think follow that to pretty much to the T. I'll do more tuning tomorrow, maybe it'll just go away at some point :)
 
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Yeah although it might not be clutch issue it was on its way out anyway but wow... very quick response now. Ok, so chirping or so called "pinging", to me it's definitely seem like chirp. I'll post another vid next time run it. Like you said, I might just ignore it but I am more of perfectionist in that sense have to get it worked out. I've checked temp using my handy dandy infrared hand held and it's below 200 deg f. Maybe it's too rich, hum... I wish I have 1/2 day to play with tuning but tough even on weekends to find time anymore.

Have a good weekend!

Guys, I've reached out to HPI help center as well and tech saw my vid that I posted here.

He said the following, "Lowering the idle, so the gap is smaller, this will calm down the engine. So you will need to turn the needle counter clockwise. If you do go too far with it then the car will cut, but then you will need to just simple turn it little more clockwise, and then it should be set right. It is also worth checking the trim on the transmitter is set correctly as well.
I would leave the HSN needle as it is at the minute".

Well, I think follow that to pretty much to the T. I'll do more tuning tomorrow, maybe it'll just go away at some point :)

Its probably too rich causing the pinging ,but 200 deg. is cool ,you have at least 60 more to play with!
I think 260 deg. is about the right temps ,an engine running too rich makes the engine work harder because
it has ecessive fuel in top end under pressure ,probably what causing the ping!

Also ,if the car has a 2 spd trans.,if you lean it a little more ,will help trans. shift quicker!...:cool:
 
Hey Cbaker65,

I'll try to lean out LSN, although I've done the pinch test and consistently 4-5 sec shutoff at idle. I believe timing is good right for LSN but that's only method I know. Or are you referring to HSN that is too rich?
 
Hey Cbaker65,

I'll try to lean out LSN, although I've done the pinch test and consistently 4-5 sec shutoff at idle. I believe timing is good right for LSN but that's only method I know. Or are you referring to HSN that is too rich?

I would just lean the HSN a little .maybe a 1/4 turn .try to get the temps up a little more.
When you do ,you will even smell the difference in the burn ,it will have a better clean smell ,
a good tune ,you can even smell the difference!...:D
 
Will do. Hey thank you for reply and chat back and forth. I really find this hobby enjoying and challenging... glad that I stuck with nitro and didn't go lipo path. Just love the realism of nitro. Now I have best of both world, 1/5 scale gas and nitro. Nitro has been challenging I have to admit. I live in NE PA, Allentown if you know where that is and we been getting hit with Rain, bit snow and has been in 30's lately.
 
Will do. Hey thank you for reply and chat back and forth. I really find this hobby enjoying and challenging... glad that I stuck with nitro and didn't go lipo path. Just love the realism of nitro. Now I have best of both world, 1/5 scale gas and nitro. Nitro has been challenging I have to admit. I live in NE PA, Allentown if you know where that is and we been getting hit with Rain, bit snow and has been in 30's lately.

On a side note ,you should find your BDC on the piston ,meaning running the pist. down ,you can use a tooth pic
in were the glo plug goes to see if the pist. is all the way down ,then put a mark on the flywheel at a spot like pointing
up at the carb. ,this will allow you to know where to put the piston at when the engine cools down ,by doing this ,it will
help the life of the engine! It allows the sleeve to shrink back while cool down an in return it prolongs the life
of the sleeves pinch!...:cool:
 
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