Introducing the Car Jacker 2000 šŸ˜

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WickedFog

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@Greywolf, @johnnydmd, and myself are on a mission to design the ultimate RC car stand. One that will hold anything securely from 1:10 scale to 1:8 scale. So here are the design stages. Additional features not yet completed are a shock stand, and possibly a tool stand. Other possible "out there" ideas are a clock, Bluetooth speakers, gooseneck LED light, etc. Any suggestions? I figure we could power it off a LiPo battery if we do add any electronics to it šŸ˜œ

20mm x 100mm x 300mm aluminum extrusion for the base, with front and rear parts trays.
Car Stand Design 001.png


Quick release pin to adjust height.
Car Stand Design 002.png


Stand will have 50mm of height adjustment.
Car Stand Design 012.png


Lazy Susan bearing atop the riser to swivel the RC.
Car Stand Design 003.png


18Ā° rotation locking. The highlighted spring plunger can be pulled down to unlock rotation. Pull down and twist the knob and that keeps it unlocked for free rotation. Pull down and release and it resumes lock function after rotating.
Car Stand Design 010.png


Arms atop the stand can slide in and out and rotate to reach any chassis or axle component, or they can be run across the stand, or removed completely.
Car Stand Design 007.png


Any number of attachments can be designed for the ends of the arms. These V-blocks will work for solid axle rigs.
Car Stand Design 008.png


Thumb screws under the table are used to lock the arms in place.
Car Stand Design 011.png
 
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@Greywolf, @johnnydmd, and myself are on a mission to design the ultimate RC car stand. One that will hold anything securely from 1:10 scale to 1:8 scale. So here are the design stages. Additional features not yet completed are a shock stand, and possibly a tool stand. Other possible "out there" ideas are a clock, Bluetooth speakers, gooseneck LED light, etc. Any suggestions? I figure we could power it off a LiPo battery if we do add any electronics to it šŸ˜œ

20mm x 100mm x 300mm aluminum extrusion for the base, with front and rear parts trays.
View attachment 154446

Quick release pin to adjust height.
View attachment 154447

Stand will have 50mm of height adjustment.
View attachment 154456

Lazy Susan bearing atop the riser to swivel the RC.
View attachment 154448

18Ā° rotation locking. The highlighted spring plunger can be pulled down to unlock rotation. Pull down and twist the knob and that keeps it unlocked for free rotation. Pull down and release and it resumes lock function after rotating.
View attachment 154454

Arms atop the stand can slide in and out and rotate to reach any chassis or axle component, or they can be run across the stand, or removed completely.
View attachment 154451

Any number of attachments can be designed for the ends of the arms. These V-blocks will work for solid axle rigs.
View attachment 154452

Thumb screws under the table are used to lock the arms in place.
View attachment 154455
Hey yall...I like this so far. One thing that really bugs me about the stands I have is that the car will move around on the stand when I'm working on it. I have to keep centering it on the stand to keep it from falling off. (Maybe it's just me, don't know). Possibly, some sort of elastic band or maybe velcro strip attached to the rotating plate in the back that can be pulled up and over the car and hooked on the front of the rotating plate to keep the car from sliding around while wrenching. Also, 100mm on the base plate seems a little narrow. Maybe 150mm would provide a little additional stability. Just a couple things I was thinking about. It's looking good guys. I'm interested to see the progress.
CharlieTuna
 
Hey yall...I like this so far. One thing that really bugs me about the stands I have is that the car will move around on the stand when I'm working on it. I have to keep centering it on the stand to keep it from falling off. (Maybe it's just me, don't know). Possibly, some sort of elastic band or maybe velcro strip attached to the rotating plate in the back that can be pulled up and over the car and hooked on the front of the rotating plate to keep the car from sliding around while wrenching. Also, 100mm on the base plate seems a little narrow. Maybe 150mm would provide a little additional stability. Just a couple things I was thinking about. It's looking good guys. I'm interested to see the progress.
CharlieTuna
I love the strap idea!

The baseplate actually measures 190mm x 300mm total size with the added parts trays. The top plate measures 130mm x 160mm without the arms. The arms total spread ranges from about 290mm to about 400mm when extended.

Here is a little demo vid of the movement.
 
I'm such a dummy! I totally forgot to get measurements for you. This is looking great! I'm down for one when you get it all worked out. I can't wait to see what you guys come up with for your next project. šŸ˜
 
That's ok man. The design kinda evolved into having a bit more adjustability with the pics I got already. I think it should fit anything. I can always design new pads for the ends of the arms to fit any weird chassis and such.
 
I was telling WF that I've owned quite a few car stands over the years and I've hated everyone of them, most of them for the same reasons. ie, not tall enough, not adjustable, doesn't swivel, etc etc so I'm really excited to build this. Seems like it will finally be what I've always wanted in an RC stand :)
 
The parts for this aren't too costly, but the 3d print time will be a bit crazy. It's going to take over 3 full days to print it all! The top plate alone is a 20 hour print.
 
The parts for this aren't too costly, but the 3d print time will be a bit crazy. It's going to take over 3 full days to print it all! The top plate alone is a 20 hour print.

I know the pain. $3 of filament, 20 hours of printer work. The final pair of beadlocks will put me at 26 hours of total print time.

Design looks awesome. I have the Hobbypark cheapo stand from Amazon I bought when I first got back into the hobby and was trying to be budget conscious. It works surprisingly well but I think adding some arms to it like in your design is doable and would make it great.

If you are thinking about selling these you might also think about making just the arm setup to attach to an existing stand.
 
Got the little 10mm arms in, so I printed up the v-blocks and designed some end caps for them.
20221021_125027.jpg

20221021_125045.jpg


Also printing the top plate after finally getting my printer going again. This past week has been one 3d printer problem after another šŸ˜£
20221021_160147.jpg
 
After installing my upgraded bed heater, and replacing the psu, and adjusting voltages on the psu and main board, this print took me about 10 attempts to get it printing. I thought I had a clogged nozzle, or a poor bed level, or something was still wrong in the electronics department, because it was printing like crap. I spent a couple hours playing with settings and clearing the nozzle and finally got it to print. Come to find out, I mistakenly grabbed a roll of PET instead of PLA šŸ¤Ŗ PET requires a hotter nozzle and bed temps, which is why it finally started printing correctly after raising my temps. I felt so dumb lol. Anyway, over 32 hours into the print, the top plate is almost done...
20221022_205007.jpg

20221022_205000.jpg


I am actually glad I made it out of more durable PET šŸ˜
 
What happens if you get a power outage. Does it start back up where it left off?
We get them often around here.
 
What happens if you get a power outage. Does it start back up where it left off?
We get them often around here.
Yes, it starts back up with a resume print option. The only bad thing is, if the bed cools off, the part is no longer adhered to the bed. So if that happens, I crazy glue the chit out of it before the temp drops. But actually, with my new bed heater, I can crank the temp way up and maybe get the part to glue back to the bed lol. Doubtful LOL
 
Yes, it starts back up with a resume print option. The only bad thing is, if the bed cools off, the part is no longer adhered to the bed. So if that happens, I crazy glue the chit out of it before the temp drops. But actually, with my new bed heater, I can crank the temp way up and maybe get the part to glue back to the bed lol. Doubtful LOL
What happens if you move the object when it's well into the print?
 
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