In your opinion, what is better for starting your engine?

[redhatman]

ok, when you guys prime your engine, do you do it until it is right at the entrance of the carbeurator, or a bit further. I have noticed, that my engine starts in about 5-7 pulls, becuase the first 3 seem like they dont have fuel. Then I get that more hollow feel in the string, and it starts.

 

[olds97_lss]

I prime until I hear the fuel in the engine. Then I leave the ignitor on for 5-10 seconds before pulling. Normally starts by pull 3 if the one way isn't giving me fits...

 

[rbmaxxbasher]

Your O.S. CV-X .12 should start on the first pull. Mine did before I sold it. I'd try replacing the head with an upgrade. It will keep the temps down, and give you more power.

 

[HeartBreak]

Starter box for me - I've tried a .21 with a pullstart breaking it in, and I'll never do that again. Makes starting those stubborn engines a breeze, too. Just push down, and unless it's hosed, the engine starts right over.

Except in the case of my t-maxx. That has a pull starter... But, i'd use a starterbox on it, too, if i had the choice.

 

[Plaidfish]

Except in the case of my t-maxx. That has a pull starter... But, i'd use a starterbox on it, too, if i had the choice.

Oh but you can....just get the mutant maxx chassis and you'll be able to use a starter box

 

[rossb]

A big 12V NEVER dies. For me atleast..

I havnt charged mine for months and months and it still runs strong.

Months?

I have a 12V 7A battery in my OFNA box and after two days of running the power panel tells me that the battery has gone from a full charge to a medium charge. I do use a glow driver with the power panel.

I prefer the starter box and then the pull start. I am not a fan of the Rotostart setups.

 

[cvec7]

IMO, the starter-box is best, but I like to use the pull-starts and rotostart. IMO, for racing, best= starter-box; for bashing= pull-start or rotostart for those hard-to-pull engines that break the pull-starts frequently.
Everyone says the rotostart is bad because you won't know of hydro-lock or w/e, but if you know how to use it, you won't cause damage to the engine like everyone says you will..

 

[Plaidfish]

if you can't hear your engine locking yu need to clear the wax out ....it definately changes tone while turning over from dry to having fuel in it.....
If your racign a starter box is the ONLY way to go....less drag from not having a one way bearing, so you can run leaner w/ less heat buildup.....

 

[Diver6127]

Just make sure that you have the alignment pegs in there. You know how many people I pit for that don't have that stuff on!?! Good for them because they know how to start it but they get pissed if I can't get it in one shot.

I always make sure I have those pegs in. Just have to drop it on and press.

A big 12V NEVER dies. For me atleast..

I havnt charged mine for months and months and it still runs strong.

Even when hooked up to a car battery as a power source, you will kill it. My 12 volt will last about 2 days with moderate use (testing, racing, hot laps included)

 

[porsche993turbo]

i prime it untill it hits the carb, when it still has a few too many bubbles, and usully prime it 1/2 to 1 times more.

 

[Buggyracer28]

Starter boxes are the best... Once your car is tuned well, it will start everytime.. But if you have a car that starts on the first, second pull everytime, Thats nice because you can start it in the middle of a race again if you flame out. I still like starter boxes better.

 

[bigboyrc's]

i my self am a pullstart guy but when racing i go to roto start

are kevlar spur gears the strongest gears they have out there for team losi xxx-nt

my trick to start easely is to take the air filter off put thumb over carb pull no more than 3 times and start the car up

 

[apburner]

I am a newby

OK. I have read this thread completely. I have a starter box and an RS4 3 18SS
What I need to know is how do I use it. i have not been able to get the engine to turn over with the box. I have not broke it in and the pull starter is malfunctioning. I have taken it apart and tried to fix it by re winding the spring but it instantly stops working. The spring won't pull back like it is slipping or something. Any help would be appretiated. either with the box or the pull starter
Steve

Never mine. I took the pull starter apart and found the spring broken. What I want to know is why it broke after only a few pulls. Is this the norm on the .18 engine

 

[redhatman]

no, thats not normal. If your assembly is old, just buy a new pull start for like $15. Then, about the slipping. It could be that your one-way bearing is dirty or needs to be replaced. give it a good cleaning, if still like that get a new one.

 

[dannthenitroman]

Starter box all the way. no pull starts to make your arm blue, no poop rotostarts with tiny motors that burn out, way stronger than your arm, and lighter than ez start (and my opinoin counts with this with $200 worth of fixing one!), less resistance to the engine from one way, and faster engine spool up because the engine doesn't have a starter shaft, and turns the engine soo fast if you can't start it the engine isnt an engine.

Dann

 

[1500valk]

Duratrax came out with a new rotostart. It uses two 550 motors and two batteries in series. In fact, Helimax markets the same starter to start heli engines up to .90 size. The switch is a definate improvement over the rotostart, too. It seems to be a well made unit, but a little on the large size.

 

[CharlieTMAXX1212]

correct me if i am wrong but can't starter boxes mess up your car/truck if you dont use them right??

 

[redhatman]

correct me if i am wrong but can't starter boxes mess up your car/truck if you dont use them right??

Haha way to bring back a thread from the dead. I suppose they could, but its not like they are hard to use. There isnt really much that can go wrong.

 

[aj200415]

welcome to 2007.......livin in 2005 are ya?

 

[TWOCANE]

man a pull start should not wear you out by even a dozen pulls. If it ever does hit the gym. LOL