How to make carbon shock towers stronger?

[DavidB1126]

So I broke 2 carbon front shock towers on the B74. Is there anyway on how to make it stronger? On amain I saw a aluminum option part. Carbon fiber vs aluminum? I know aluminum can bend and might be heavier than carbon. I seen people using glue on the top of the shock tower and or using shock tower guards (most of the time 3d printed) I break the shock tower where the shock mounts to.

 

[bill_delong]

Some brands offer a hybrid solution by reinforcing the carbon with a stamped steel plate, but I generally prefer aluminum towers if I'm breaking too many carbon towers. It takes a squeaky clean driver to run carbon

Carbon will snap long before aluminum is bent and at least you don't get a DNF with a bent aluminum tower!

Another option is to double up the carbon plates if you have the space and use longer screws, some aftermarket brands will offer thicker carbon towers as well.

 

[WickedFog]

Don't you have a 3d printer? You could try 3d printing something that will transfer the impact to the center of the shock tower.

Or stop crashing

 

[Greywolf74]

7075 T6 aluminum

 

[DavidB1126]

Here is what I found for aluminum. It is for the OG B74 but will fit the .1. I am getting both this aluminum one and the stock carbon fiber just in case.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/revolu...wer-black-rdrp0496/p1048559#tab-compatibility

 

[WickedFog]

That aluminum tower looks pretty stout. For the carbon tower, get some thin CA glue and use a q-tip and coat the outer perimeter with a layer of glue. Carbon fiber is made in laminated layers, and cutting it out exposes the layers. Running a bead of glue strengthens the layers and helps keep them from delaminating. It doesn't appear like it's going to help much, because you are hitting something pretty hard to break that tower, but it may strengthen it a bit.

 

[DavidB1126]

That aluminum tower looks pretty stout. For the carbon tower, get some thin CA glue and use a q-tip and coat the outer perimeter with a layer of glue. Carbon fiber is made in laminated layers, and cutting it out exposes the layers. Running a bead of glue strengthens the layers and helps keep them from delaminating. It doesn't appear like it's going to help much, because you are hitting something pretty hard to break that tower, but it may strengthen it a bit.

Yea I will try the glue method. I need to improve my driving anyways. Now I'm too fast. I got to slow my roll and roll into the jumps instead of braking before them. And do the jumps smoothly.

 

[WickedFog]

Yea I will try the glue method. I need to improve my driving anyways. Now I'm too fast. I got to slow my roll and roll into the jumps instead of braking before them. And do the jumps smoothly.

The more track time you get with that kit the better you'll be I'm sure. Do they allow track time when they aren't racing? Getting on the track by yourself, or at least in a more relaxed situation would be some good time to work out the jumps and tuning.

Like playing a new song on guitar... play it slowly, and precisely. Once you can play it well, only then do you speed up

I have very little time on an RC track, but I used to race somewhat competitively in various PC racing simulation games on a home network. I set it up with a few friends who were racing simulation fanatics as well. I used the same approach when I learned new tracks, by running slow laps to get the apexes, and throttle and braking down. Then I would gradually speed things up, but only as fast as I could go while trying to maintain perfect laps.

I was pretty darned good racing others online, though not the best of course. I held numerous track records in Motor City Online and a couple others at one point. My buddies weren't as competitive as I was, but still pretty good. Even so, I usually lapped them by the time we finished a race. I found that passing them just came natural because I wasn't paying attention to them as much as I was focusing on my entry and exit speeds in the corners. We didn't have jumps where throttle control played a part in landing of course, but maybe this method of practicing might help ya

 

[DavidB1126]

The more track time you get with that kit the better you'll be I'm sure. Do they allow track time when they aren't racing? Getting on the track by yourself, or at least in a more relaxed situation would be some good time to work out the jumps and tuning.

Like playing a new song on guitar... play it slowly, and precisely. Once you can play it well, only then do you speed up

Yep. They do practice on the off road track when they are not racing which is basically every day besides Thursday nights before 7. So far when going down its been more for fun like last time we did some dag racing. But next time ill work on my driving with the buggy. And will do some drag racing with the slash.
But heres the thing. When I'm down, there is no other off road people there. Its mostly mini z. So thats why I'm going to get my uncle's turnbuckles for his surprise bday present and drag him down here. Lol.

 

[DavidB1126]

Don't you have a 3d printer? You could try 3d printing something that will transfer the impact to the center of the shock tower.

Or stop crashing

Actually, My uncle said to find a shock tower guard. I found this one on thingiverse and might have my LHS print it out.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4109673
And why not print out the rear one too?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094457
I wonder how the shock tower guards will actually help?

 

[WickedFog]

Actually, My uncle said to find a shock tower guard. I found this one on thingiverse and might have my LHS print it out.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4109673
And why not print out the rear one too?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4094457
I wonder how the shock tower guards will actually help?

From the looks of it, it will take the impact and transfer it to a larger area of the shock tower, like I was talking about earlier. So it should work quite well. Your problem is you're smacking that small piece of CF sticking out there and it is small and easy to break.

Oh, and it's cool your LHS will print stuff like that for you, but I hope they aren't charging any more than time+material. Printing and selling someone else's design off there for profit is a violation of the license agreement on Thingiverse

 

[DavidB1126]

I got medium CA tire glue. That should work.

Well this LHS that prints out things, they are family owned. Hobby shop, computer / tech repair shop and some 3d printing. He was also the owner of the old local carpet track which he had to close up because rent was way to high for his budget / price. Also it wasn't in a populated area and not enough people coming out. The track was only 2 minutes away from the other shop (the computer shop at the time)

Last time he printed a small servo mount for the mini b which didn't work but I kept it just in case. He didn't charge me anything. He found it for me and printed it for me so he helped me out actually.

 

[Jerold]

Send it back to the manufacturer. They may warranty it.

Still doesn't change the fact you have to change it out, but at least your not buying a new one. They might even upgrade their design if they get enough feedback.

 

[RustyUs]

Try these... https://prostarrc.ecwid.com/B74-Kevlar-Shock-Towers-set-p145207108

 

[WickedFog]

Try these... https://prostarrc.ecwid.com/B74-Kevlar-Shock-Towers-set-p145207108
View attachment 162769

Are those any good? They look terrible.

"Due to the extreme nature and the difficulty cutting Kevlar some cosmetic minor frays may be in the screw holes or complex edges. it is recommended to seal all edges with CA glue and sand off any remaining kevlar strands if any."

I machined Kevlar, and it never looked like that. And rather than make a statement saying their parts look like chit, they cound simply run a debur tool around it before pulling the vacuum. Doesn't take much longer than reading that paragraph to do it

 

[RustyUs]

Are those any good? They look terrible.

"Due to the extreme nature and the difficulty cutting Kevlar some cosmetic minor frays may be in the screw holes or complex edges. it is recommended to seal all edges with CA glue and sand off any remaining kevlar strands if any."

I machined Kevlar, and it never looked like that. And rather than make a statement saying their parts look like chit, they cound simply run a debur tool around it before pulling the vacuum. Doesn't take much longer than reading that paragraph to do it

Contact them. I'm sure they will fill you in on their greatness.

Are those any good? They look terrible.

"Due to the extreme nature and the difficulty cutting Kevlar some cosmetic minor frays may be in the screw holes or complex edges. it is recommended to seal all edges with CA glue and sand off any remaining kevlar strands if any."

I machined Kevlar, and it never looked like that. And rather than make a statement saying their parts look like chit, they cound simply run a debur tool around it before pulling the vacuum. Doesn't take much longer than reading that paragraph to do it

Thank you for the laugh as they are always suggesting unbelievable performance.

 

[WickedFog]

Selling partially finished parts may be a good idea. I dunno. It works for "take and bake" pizza shops. But I really wouldn't like to have kevlar dust in my RC room from sanding their burrs off. That's just me though

 

[DavidB1126]

New aluminum shock tower from Revolutionary Designs. Since it is aluminum I put threadlock on every screw. Should be good now.