His & Hers Duratrax Evaders Builds

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I didn't know it existed ,but I don't really mess with mine ,even though ,I did use to build & repair those types
of engines ,probably because I am burned out on them as I became the local towns small engine repair guy!

Mine is only the 23 size ,been wanting to up the size engine ,but ,it wont really be any good with out a 2 spd trans ,
all the power would be in vein with out the proper gearing!

I have been looking into a 2 spd set up though ,I did however ,installed a dual ring pist ,an did
a couple mods to it a while back!
Looks good, need a good cleaning tho! Do you plan on restoring it to it's former glory?
 
When I'm ready Ill deffo look into the rc10gt! The km bajas are not bad, mine was a rovan but they are very similar. The difference between rovan and km is, km has a smaller engine but more aluminum/bling, rovan has more nylon plastic (not the brittle crap, nylon flexes) and has a bigger Engine, up to u which one you want but I opted for the rovan. I was thinking about making a build-it-yourself kit of my 70cc, all the parts would be premade and ready for assembly, just not assembled and the buyer would assemble it, and I would have a pre built version for people who don't have time/don't want to assemble the engine. The un assmebled version would be cheaper. I don't know if that will happen but just cool to think about, maybe I'll make it happen someday!
that seemed to be more or less what i was finding, being my entry vehicle to the large scale, i dont really know how badly ill want a bigger engine to begin with, dont necessarily want it under-powered, but dont need tire shredding off the bat, especially because i will want to learn wear points so i know what to watch without grenading parts. kind of wish i knew somebody local to be able to look at a 1/5 scale in person.
 
that seemed to be more or less what i was finding, being my entry vehicle to the large scale, i dont really know how badly ill want a bigger engine to begin with, dont necessarily want it under-powered, but dont need tire shredding off the bat, especially because i will want to learn wear points so i know what to watch without grenading parts. kind of wish i knew somebody local to be able to look at a 1/5 scale in person.
The difference in engines aren't big, like the t1000, it has a 34cc, the rovan model called the "Terminator" is a 36cc, you most likely will not tell the difference, but the rovan has a much better exhuast, it has nylon arms vs the brittle ones on the t1000, the rovan has the easy pull start which will make pulling easier, those are the advantages to the rovan, the advantages of the km t1000 are stronger top plate, aluminum shock tower, aluminum shock tower mount thingys, aluminum rear hubs, aluminum rear top plate, extended hex hubs, aluminum body mounts. So you'll have to pick which one. Keep in mind, the aluminum that you'll most likely upgrading to with the rovan will be flm, turtle racing, ddm, ect which are wayy higher quality than the km Aluminum, so it's have a rovan with more plastic from the factory, $30 less than the km, or the km with more lesser quality aluminum (it's not horrible quality, it's just not as strong as the other aftermarket vendors). Not trying to convince you at all, nor am I biased to either because either way you'll probably be Upgrade anyways down the road cuz that's what we RC guys do lol.
 
Looks good, need a good cleaning tho! Do you plan on restoring it to it's former glory?

I plan on doing some mods to it later in the future yes ,but putting it back like stock ,no!
I got the buggy for my B-day from my wife ,I do have the un painted body panels for it ,
an I need to paint those.
I want a little bit bigger engine for it and a 2 spd. ,as far as candy ,its not going to get any!

Oh, I want to change the filter set up!
 
The difference in engines aren't big, like the t1000, it has a 34cc, the rovan model called the "Terminator" is a 36cc, you most likely will not tell the difference, but the rovan has a much better exhuast, it has nylon arms vs the brittle ones on the t1000, the rovan has the easy pull start which will make pulling easier, those are the advantages to the rovan, the advantages of the km t1000 are stronger top plate, aluminum shock tower, aluminum shock tower mount thingys, aluminum rear hubs, aluminum rear top plate, extended hex hubs, aluminum body mounts. So you'll have to pick which one. Keep in mind, the aluminum that you'll most likely upgrading to with the rovan will be flm, turtle racing, ddm, ect which are wayy higher quality than the km Aluminum, so it's have a rovan with more plastic from the factory, $30 less than the km, or the km with more lesser quality aluminum (it's not horrible quality, it's just not as strong as the other aftermarket vendors). Not trying to convince you at all, nor am I biased to either because either way you'll probably be Upgrade anyways down the road cuz that's what we RC guys do lol.
good to know, its going to be awhile before i can pick one up so at least i have plenty of time to sleep on it haha!
they are pretty much the same rig though correct? as in parts are compatible with each other? thought i read they were.
if so, i wonder if it would be worthwhile buying arms for the rovan as replacements for the KM. probably going to wait till i find a decent deal on ebay or find one on sale, I'm not partial to either car especially, so probably going to be a whichever i can find first when the time is right!
 
good to know, its going to be awhile before i can pick one up so at least i have plenty of time to sleep on it haha!
they are pretty much the same rig though correct? as in parts are compatible with each other? thought i read they were.
if so, i wonder if it would be worthwhile buying arms for the rovan as replacements for the KM. probably going to wait till i find a decent deal on ebay or find one on sale, I'm not partial to either car especially, so probably going to be a whichever i can find first when the time is right!
Yes, they are the same car, compatible parts.
I plan on doing some mods to it later in the future yes ,but putting it back like stock ,no!
I got the buggy for my B-day from my wife ,I do have the un painted body panels for it ,
an I need to paint those.
I want a little bit bigger engine for it and a 2 spd. ,as far as candy ,its not going to get any!

Oh, I want to change the filter set up!
Ok, make a thread about reviving it!
 
Yes, they are the same car, compatible parts.

Ok, make a thread about reviving it!

Yea ,sure will ,the last that I did on it ,was I made a top plate for it after crumpling the front end on a wreck!
I have to find my pics of it!
But will do a thread ,I have one here ,but it is an old thread!...:thumbs-up:
 
They definitely were a great way to get into the hobby, tbh no idea how they were able to sell them as cheap as they did, been able to do the stress tech guarantee, 2 year engine warranty, and sell parts so cheap. Iirc they and their parts were cheaper than the rustler, the aluminum was a bit spendy comparatively, but not outrageous.
Even their (Duratrax) graphite parts had a one year guarantee. Probably the shortest production in-n-out Evader platform was the Brushless edition. IMO Duratrax's best rendition of the Evader lineup...on the electric side. That tranny is the shizzle.

Glad to hear you had the Evaders both up and running.
 
Even their (Duratrax) graphite parts had a one year guarantee. Probably the shortest production in-n-out Evader platform was the Brushless edition. IMO Duratrax's best rendition of the Evader lineup...on the electric side. That tranny is the shizzle.

Glad to hear you had the Evaders both up and running.
thanks! from what I've been reading recently on those it seems they were great, i was out of the hobby during that period, i think the ext had just come out when i was getting out.

once this new tank comes in going to try throwing in the fantom engine see how that does. keep the spare .18 for the lady's car.
 
Did you ever see that Hong Kong RCdamper aluminum candy store for the MGT.'s?
i had ordered from them for my LST, i got the engine brace for it, and my steering kit came from them. i have been looking at their axle shaft assemblies and probably will order the set of them when mine decide to go out!
was tempted on buying their diff cases too, but i found a few recently of the stockers for 6$ a pop, so bought them out.
kind of wanting to try the flywheel and clutch shoes though, but I'm curios of quality on the shoes given the price.
 
i had ordered from them for my LST, i got the engine brace for it, and my steering kit came from them. i have been looking at their axle shaft assemblies and probably will order the set of them when mine decide to go out!
was tempted on buying their diff cases too, but i found a few recently of the stockers for 6$ a pop, so bought them out.
kind of wanting to try the flywheel and clutch shoes though, but I'm curios of quality on the shoes given the price.

They are pricey ,but if are plastic parts get discontinued ,I would have no choice but to buy the diff cases ,not too
fond of having alum a-arms ,but shock towers & diff cases might be a must have in the future!
 
They are pricey ,but if are plastic parts get discontinued ,I would have no choice but to buy the diff cases ,not too
fond of having alum a-arms ,but shock towers & diff cases might be a must have in the future!
Yeah definitely, kind of why I'm sticking up on those parts. You still have some spare diff cases? Eventually when one of mine breaks still wanting to try and fab a lower a-arm mount so even with the tabs broken off it won't matter, just dont want to destroy a perfectly good one.
 
Yeah definitely, kind of why I'm sticking up on those parts. You still have some spare diff cases? Eventually when one of mine breaks still wanting to try and fab a lower a-arm mount so even with the tabs broken off it won't matter, just dont want to destroy a perfectly good one.

I think it can be done by drilling an screwing a hing pin capture onto the skidplate ,maybe later I will experiment with that!

There is room ,or you can make room an slide a pin holder under the diff. ,it should be able to handle at least a 1/8 of
space between the diff. an skid with out altering shafts movement!
 
got the tank mounted up, only was able to get one screw to line up correctly, had to drill out 2 new holes, (RC10GT has a 3 screw mount setup, as the evader has 4).
ran them on Sunday, man these things are quick! I'm still getting used to 2wd again, but definitely fun!
on mine there was some wire acting as the CV pin, which once i got the truck close to tune, decided to shear that off, wasn't expecting it to last long. in the bag of parts with the rigs, there were two driveshafts, so i was just going to throw one on, didnt realize they were ST ones so they didnt fit i was able to rob the cv pin from one to get back running though, but i am super happy they are the ST ones, just means i have more parts already for the ST Conversion, having a really hard time finding front A-Arms though for the ST model, bought a set of rears off ebay, and a online store had some fronts in stock, little did i know the online store was actually out of stock, and the quantity showed was wrong. now i can't seem to find a front A-arm set to save my life. graphite or stock, I'm probably going to have to try to track down a set of XXT arms or something, wish i was able to 3-D print lol. got the front shock tower on order as well, dont yet have a front body mount from the ST, but i may do something a bit different as bodies that fit are getting difficult to find too.
20190614_120140.jpg
 
Wonder if you could fit RC10 arms on it. Can get RPM versions of those.

Not sure of the length/pin gap/shock location though:
https://www.dollarhobbyz.com/produc...cKwjwFt0eFBeF4nEDPhS-uFS8WlQtZShoCygAQAvD_BwE

Might be worth $10 to find out.
My brother in law actually has one and I looked at it after I got done typing that out, the arm mount to bulk is the correct size, the shock mounts are more centered than on the front edge, and the rc10 arms are "straighter" out, but failed to remember as I saw that though that this is 2wd, lol I can move the front back and forth all I want dont have to worry about axle/dog bone angle.
 
Yeah, that's what I was thinking too. At least then the fronts can be replaced with something resilient and if they are RPM, they will flex and save you busting axle carriers and hinge pin mounts too.
 
Realized it's been awhile since I updated this.
Few weeks ago took out both evaders to get some bashing in, the lady ran her buggy and I ran mine. She was getting the hang of steering these for the most part, they definitely are not underpowered, lots of throttle control required. But near the end her fuel tube that goes to the exhaust kept popping off the tank so we called it a day. Didnr want to damage the engine. Both engines are still are going strong! Even the one I was worried about lower compression. Ended up taking mine to a local bike jump area with my buddy (talked him into getting the ECX Amp kit version as his first RC) was doing ok, I'm really not practiced on tracks. Definitely a few tumbles. He ended hitting me head on and broke a steering arm. Luckily that other roller I got had the parts. I did manage to fully convert mine to a ST, except for the spur/pinion. Which initially had me worried it would be overgeared for the engine. It is most definitely not. It had come with some proline gladiator tires mounted on the rear wheel but the pin got stripped in the wheel. Planning on either rebounding the wheels and tires, or filling the stripped portion with plastic weld/epoxy and dremel the pin holes. Anyway onto the pics:
 

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LOL. I always had fears of wheel nuts (rear) loosening... just enough to let the pins start with their madness.

If you are looking for arms, they are plentiful on eBay now. The rear arms I don't know about. What makes the nitro ST arms special besides
having the shocks mounted on the rear of them? Could a person take a rear EXT/ST arm and just swap sides?
 
LOL. I always had fears of wheel nuts (rear) loosening... just enough to let the pins start with their madness.

If you are looking for arms, they are plentiful on eBay now. The rear arms I don't know about. What makes the nitro ST arms special besides
having the shocks mounted on the rear of them? Could a person take a rear EXT/ST arm and just swap sides?
lol yup, definitely check mine often, maybe to much so even.
at this point i would like to find another set of arms all around, i see fronts popping up on ebay more now. about 3 months solid wasn't a set to be found though.
the rears are pretty specific to the Nitro evader, as there is an indent on the front of the right arm for where the spur gear goes. might be compatible with the left arm though.
 
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