Help me choose a truck

[9x19]

My oldest son has a Sledge and it has been a great truck for him.

I built a Tekno MT410 and it has been a great truck for me, through 2 whole packs of 4S so far.

My Tekno build was a little bit cheaper than a new Sledge, and I used some fairly basic electronics in mine (Spektrum 150A/2050kV) about as good as the factory Traxxas stuff), because I'm just not a connoisseur of the finer ESC/Motors to be had. As a basher, the lower cost stuff has served me fine so far.

 

[lee82gx]

If mine did that I would look at heat treating the drive cups. Heat it up red then dip in oil or water. That's just me though.

Well, do your outdrives not look like that after a any length of driving and bashing?

Cup notching happens to all dogbone drivetrains and I wouldn't worry about it till it gets really bad.

The weak spot on a Tekno MT410 is the front input gear bearings, 5x11x4. My MT runs issue free for the most part. I understand your Arrma issues. If you're looking for a 6s truggy I would recommend a Sledge. My Kraton is a parts order per battery pack, my Sledge, I've broken a shock cap so far. With a Sledge you need to make two changes. You need to replace the plastic chassis braces with aluminum (I run Integy on mine) and a fixed motor mount screw set like what Hot Racing makes. After that you just put a battery in it and go for a drive, I really like my Sledge a lot. My second favorite truck is the MT410.

Thanks for the recommendation on the sledge. Unfortunately it’s a bit too expensive for me considering it must come RTR and those upgrades you recommended are very difficult to procure in Malaysia. It just makes things even more expensive to start. I’m gravitating towards the MT410, and perhaps if my latest rebuild does not turn out well then I will order the MT410

 

[Chubaka]

Well, do your outdrives not look like that after a any length of driving and bashing?

Thanks for the recommendation on the sledge. Unfortunately it’s a bit too expensive for me considering it must come RTR and those upgrades you recommended are very difficult to procure in Malaysia. It just makes things even more expensive to start. I’m gravitating towards the MT410, and perhaps if my latest rebuild does not turn out well then I will order the MT410

The only cars that have those are my HPI Nitro rs4 and they haven't seen the road in some time. The rest are plastic shafts. But yes, with my driving style they wallow plastic or metal. Just have to find a way to prolong them because my driving habits ain't changing!

 

[JAT3]

preamble -
1. I am now 41, have 2 young but uninterested kids. between that and my wife and a 1:1 job and upcoming Rheumatoid arthritis, I no longer have the time and energy to wrench. Back in the days I literally slept in nitro infused clothes.

2. I bought a used kraton 6s as an intro that has smacked me into reality, there is a lot of maintenance required....to achieve this kind of speed, kinetic energy and tumbling about. I was really attracted by Kevin Talbot who ensured all of us that we can whack the 6s system to the moon and back and repeat this without necessary wrenching. Silly me.
2.1 Much as I like, I do not envision re-building 80 diffs so that I can do it by muscle memory - Mad respects to those in this passion. [I can say I have about 5 more diffs in my passion bank left, the longer the time I can stretch this the more I can bash]
example is here: I am a lousy mechanic
3. I already have a typhon 3s which appears so much more friendly everytime you look at it, save for the fact that I can barely move it around on 2 inch or higher grass.

Is there another model that I can enjoy, with much lower maintenance even at lower speeds? As long as it can move around on sites like these:

I have given up on doing mad jumps and backflips and what not. But I do not want to "crawl" at 5km/h. How about 40km/h top speeds?

I don't mind spending on a new kit. Here are the options in my country:
1. Tamiya - I know - the horror of ABS plastics
2. Another Arrma. This brand seem to be the best supported off road vehicles in my country. Even so, it will be via internet shops. I am a bit dismayed by the failing diffs and worn drive cups.
3. Traxxas. Second best support.
4. Losi (isnt this the same as Arrma?)
5. Corally (only 1 dealer in the whole country, yikes)
6. Serpent (same as Corally above)
7. Chinese XYZ/ABX/MJX/HBX etc brands, buy 2 kits and keep them as spares.
8. Repair my kraton and take it easy, go 4s etc.

What I'm finding is unless you have deep pockets the electric vs nitro debtate isn't debatable. Personal experience of mine and those around me only here. Not meant to be offensive and I will add I don't even like the term bash. I'm not hard on my stuff. I'll never attempt to send 1 of my vehicles into orbit off a ramp or anything if the sort.
When I run my nitros. They are old vintage trucks less my 10yr revo. I have to plan ahead. Do I have fuel ? Is the ignitor charged ? Battery for the starter charged ? Spare glow plugs. Then after a couple tanks of fuel there's the after maintenance. Drain the tank. After run oil the engine. Give it a bath. Check, clean or replace the air filter. Check hardware. Put it away. With electric granted faster and more powerful I have yet to enjoy a single session without breakage. I still have to charge batteries and wash and check hardware. Plus I have the additional time of diagnosing what broke and why. Finding the parts. Paying for the parts. Installing the new parts. I have 8 models total. From Arrma Kraton exb with the BLX electronics to a first gen AE MGT. Couple HPIs and a few Traxxas. I'm not advocating for 1 system or the other. Just offering my findings as my hands aren't what they used to be nor my eyes. When I got back into the hobby that was my main reason for going electric. But I do much less technical work on the antique nitros than modern electrics hands down. Just food for thought.
Top is from a vintage nitro with a .21 engine. Slow and gutless by today's standards. A 4s electric would beat it up everywhere. Bottom is an "upgraded" unit from a 6s.

 

[9x19]

A common theme on the electric side is the notion that you should have at least a 6S system in everything, when there are many, many models that run just fine on 2S or 3S systems. The bigger ESCs / motors have their place, but a Traxxas Stampede isn't it.

 

[Finesavageboy2]

If it was me, I would get a monster truck or a sct truck. Some examples are...
- Arrma Senton 3s: extremely durable and top speed of 50 mph
-Traxxas Slash VXL: durable to some point but watch out for exploding tires and shattered driveshafts. Top speed of 60 mph
-Arrma Big Rock or Granite 3s: extremely durable and top speed of 50 mph
-Traxxas Stampede VXL (2wd or 4wd): Pretty durable (had multiple of these and even hit a brick mailbox at 60 and drove away) and top speed of 60 mph

 

[bigbristv]

I couldn't recommend the Senton 3s more. The thing just won't break, is fast and looks great, too.

I added lights and have a set of wheels for the street as well as a set for the dirt and don't have an inkling to buy another rig.

My other 6 cars get neglected.

 

[Finesavageboy2]

I somehow broke it. who knew concrete can break plastic??

 

[bigbristv]

I somehow broke it. who knew concrete can break plastic??

LOL. I just made this clip for you
https://youtube.com/clip/UgkxyyBzFrdkxPQMvK4QrtqcyeHMf75O_mZS?feature=shared

 

[phm14]

I own a Tekno MT410, and the AE MT10. Have you seen Talbots' MT10 video? They had a very hard time destroying it. I use mine (100% bone stock), when I feel like driving, but don't want to drive a 1:1 to a spot. The included lights work great at night. The MT10 is fun to drive, and the only issue I've had was a loose wheel nut, when new, and the center caps on the wheels coming off. It has a couple of small holes, in the rear corners of the body, from sliding down the street on it's lid, with no body reinforcement. It runs great on 2s. The stock tires are good for general purpose, and have been very durable on concrete. I've had it ~6 months, and finally returned the RPM a-arms I bought, since I haven't broken any stock parts. The biggest problem may be finding one, as they have been sold out on Amain, for a while now. Rule of thumb: Weight = breakage. Excessive power = breakage (in general). The MT410 has Techno quality, at a bargain price point, but my lack of skill driving a stunt truck killed the body, quickly (rear body posts mounted at shock tower). I have not been super impressed with my X Maxx, or Arrma Infraction. For durability and performance in off-road kit form, I have been buying Tekno. 2wd indoor-went with the new RC10 there. I've had great results with Kyosho 1/8 buggies, as well. With something like the MT10, ordering parts has not been necessary, for me. That could solve your parts supply issue, along with a back up, or 2, if you do have some lead time for parts. You'll spend less on 2 MT10s, than on a quality MT410 kit build, and have a back up, for everything on the truck, including Tx/Rx. .

 

[thatcraig]

So I think he decided to go with a.robot right?

 

[Georgia2025]

preamble -
1. I am now 41, have 2 young but uninterested kids. between that and my wife and a 1:1 job and upcoming Rheumatoid arthritis, I no longer have the time and energy to wrench. Back in the days I literally slept in nitro infused clothes.

2. I bought a used kraton 6s as an intro that has smacked me into reality, there is a lot of maintenance required....to achieve this kind of speed, kinetic energy and tumbling about. I was really attracted by Kevin Talbot who ensured all of us that we can whack the 6s system to the moon and back and repeat this without necessary wrenching. Silly me.
2.1 Much as I like, I do not envision re-building 80 diffs so that I can do it by muscle memory - Mad respects to those in this passion. [I can say I have about 5 more diffs in my passion bank left, the longer the time I can stretch this the more I can bash]
example is here: I am a lousy mechanic
3. I already have a typhon 3s which appears so much more friendly everytime you look at it, save for the fact that I can barely move it around on 2 inch or higher grass.

Is there another model that I can enjoy, with much lower maintenance even at lower speeds? As long as it can move around on sites like these:

I have given up on doing mad jumps and backflips and what not. But I do not want to "crawl" at 5km/h. How about 40km/h top speeds?

I don't mind spending on a new kit. Here are the options in my country:
1. Tamiya - I know - the horror of ABS plastics
2. Another Arrma. This brand seem to be the best supported off road vehicles in my country. Even so, it will be via internet shops. I am a bit dismayed by the failing diffs and worn drive cups.
3. Traxxas. Second best support.
4. Losi (isnt this the same as Arrma?)
5. Corally (only 1 dealer in the whole country, yikes)
6. Serpent (same as Corally above)
7. Chinese XYZ/ABX/MJX/HBX etc brands, buy 2 kits and keep them as spares.
8. Repair my kraton and take it easy, go 4s etc.

Here’s me in the snow with the Notorious 6s v6. I love it its handles pretty welll and the flips are awesome. Hope this helps.
Just got this bad boy last week. I love it so far. New Arrma Notorious 6s v6.

January 12, 2025

 

[jojobeans]

Any 1/10 and larger HCG style chassis will do fine at you want. Stepped chassis like on the stampede, mt10, kaiju, maxx, etc makes for poor handling, but a lot less resistance when running through grass.

A stampede or associated mt10 should do everything you want and keeping it on 2s should get the speed to where you want it. Maintenance should be minimal and the drivetrain is more than beefy enough to handle 2s without breaking too much, if at all. Parts and electronics are much cheaper than 1/8 stuff as well, so when/if it does break, it won’t break the bank as well.

 

[CertifiedMike]

The input is all good! I just wanted to point out that prior to today, the last post was in Nov 23.

 

[jojobeans]

The input is all good! I just wanted to point out that prior to today, the last post was in Nov 23.

Maybe he’s indecisive and hasn’t chosen yet!

 

[CertifiedMike]

Its good info for the next person reading. Just didn't want anyone to be sad if there wasn't much reaction to the posts.