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I was looking on offerup and I found an ARRMA Raider for 65 bucks and I'm thinking about getting it. Thoughts?
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yeahOh it's 1/10. Oh I see. Normal arrma with the same model different scales. The price new (back in 2011) is 160. I think 65 is a good deal. I would still check for parts availability tho. Even more since it is a discontinued model.
is baltimore in london?Oh it's 1/10. Oh I see. Normal arrma with the same model different scales. The price new (back in 2011) is 160. I think 65 is a good deal. I would still check for parts availability tho. Even more since it is a discontinued model.
sorry if it's obvious.yeah
is baltimore in london?
^^^^ This. That is the very first thing anyone should do if not familiar with a certain discontinued platform. Some people like the challenge of keeping their beloved toy up and running for as long as possible. For me, I always told myself if I can't find a part within fifteen minutes... time to sell.Oh it's 1/10. Oh I see. Normal arrma with the same model different scales. The price new (back in 2011) is 160. I think 65 is a good deal. I would still check for parts availability tho. Even more since it is a discontinued model.
No MD. East coast of the USis baltimore in london?
I it the Raider XL? Mega, BLS or BLX? The BLS and BLX have a plastic diff, that is still available, as are almost every part for it, but mainly only on eBay, However, if it is the metal diff (easy way to tell, if the transmission is all plastic, or has a metal motor plate), which has the metal motor plate, none of those diff parts are available, and, the only way to fix the diff if it breaks is to swap in an HPI Blitz diff, but, then you need the metal idler. I have an original Fury mega, which almost every part is the same, and, to go from the plastic diff to the HPI conversion, with all the needed parts, is going to be $100+.I was looking on offerup and I found an ARRMA Raider for 65 bucks and I'm thinking about getting it. Thoughts?
the guy still has it in the box and it still has the plastic wrap on the bodyI it the Raider XL? Mega, BLS or BLX? The BLS and BLX have a plastic diff, that is still available, as are almost every part for it, but mainly only on eBay, However, if it is the metal diff (easy way to tell, if the transmission is all plastic, or has a metal motor plate), which has the metal motor plate, none of those diff parts are available, and, the only way to fix the diff if it breaks is to swap in an HPI Blitz diff, but, then you need the metal idler. I have an original Fury mega, which almost every part is the same, and, to go from the plastic diff to the HPI conversion, with all the needed parts, is going to be $100+.
EDIT: Me, since i know the original Arrma 2WD very well, i would buy it in a heartbeat, but, you not knowing them, make sure you get as much info as you can about it, and try to get as many pics as possible, before you do get it.
its the 1/10 scale one.I it the Raider XL? Mega, BLS or BLX? The BLS and BLX have a plastic diff, that is still available, as are almost every part for it, but mainly only on eBay, However, if it is the metal diff (easy way to tell, if the transmission is all plastic, or has a metal motor plate), which has the metal motor plate, none of those diff parts are available, and, the only way to fix the diff if it breaks is to swap in an HPI Blitz diff, but, then you need the metal idler. I have an original Fury mega, which almost every part is the same, and, to go from the plastic diff to the HPI conversion, with all the needed parts, is going to be $100+.
EDIT: Me, since i know the original Arrma 2WD very well, i would buy it in a heartbeat, but, you not knowing them, make sure you get as much info as you can about it, and try to get as many pics as possible, before you do get it.
Its not a bad buy, but, it does depend on a few factors, same as with buying any discontinued vehicle. However, if you plan on making it brushless, just know it may get expensive to keep it running. Best thing to do is ask the seller what model it actually is, since there were at least 4 different versions of it. There was the Raider mega, Raider BLS, Raider BLX, and the Raider XL mega, and BLX, and there may have even been a Raider XL BLS. Some of them had an all plastic transmission, diff and idlers, and some had a metal diff and idler, with a metal motor plate.the guy still has it in the box and it still has the plastic wrap on the body
This one, it entirely depends on which one it actually is. TLR Parts can get pricey very quickly, so it depends on how current it is, and what parts are available. I have only ever owned one TLR, and that was a few years ago. I'm more of a Team Associated guy.its the 1/10 scale one.
i actually found another truck and it is a TLR 22-4 2.0 for 127 dollars. its a roller though. thoughts?
i know that it is the 1/10 scale one because on the manual it says "1/10 scale 2wd offroad buggy."Its not a bad buy, but, it does depend on a few factors, same as with buying any discontinued vehicle. However, if you plan on making it brushless, just know it may get expensive to keep it running. Best thing to do is ask the seller what model it actually is, since there were at least 4 different versions of it. There was the Raider mega, Raider BLS, Raider BLX, and the Raider XL mega, and BLX, and there may have even been a Raider XL BLS. Some of them had an all plastic transmission, diff and idlers, and some had a metal diff and idler, with a metal motor plate.
This one, it entirely depends on which one it actually is. TLR Parts can get pricey very quickly, so it depends on how current it is, and what parts are available. I have only ever owned one TLR, and that was a few years ago. I'm more of a Team Associated guy.
Both the Raider and Raider XL were 1/10TH scale. The only real difference, IIRC, was that the XL had a longer chassis. This is the Raider XL: https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/1-8-raider-xl-2wd-mega-brushed-buggy-rtr-red-white/ARAD85RW.html and, this is the Raider: https://www.lprcs.com/arrma-raider-2wd-1-10-waterproof-mega-desert-buggy-ar102602 The Raider was on the SWB chassis, and the Raider XL was on the longer LWB chassis, and, dont quote me, but, i think they also had different body colors. I remember at one time only seeing the Raider in blue, and the Raider XL in red. Other than the chassis and body, everything else was pretty much the same on both cars. If you can tell from the pics, see if it has metal plates under the body attached toi the chassis. If so, that is a BLS or BLX car, if not, its a mega.i know that it is the 1/10 scale one because on the manual it says "1/10 scale 2wd offroad buggy."
The TLR 22 4 is the TLRs old 4wd buggy with the belt drive system. This was the buggy before the 22X4 which is shaft driven. The belt drive systems are ok now but most racers use shaft drive now. 127 dollars and a roller. Not that bad for just a roller. The kit from TLR direct was 242 dollars. So that roller price isn't that bad. Still I would rather build a kit than get a roller. With a kit you see how the car is put together and make your own changes right out of the box. The TLR 22 4 is discontinued and the new 22 x 4 replace that car.This one, it entirely depends on which one it actually is. TLR Parts can get pricey very quickly, so it depends on how current it is, and what parts are available. I have only ever owned one TLR, and that was a few years ago. I'm more of a Team Associated guy.
Would it be a good race buggy? I have an awesome track nearby in Beaverton and it's called PDX underground. It's full carpet and I really want to get into the racing scene. I have a vintage team associated rc10 t3 that I race but it's so old I want something newer that will keep up with the competition. If I do get it I think I'm gonna save up for like the reedy black box or something like that. My track also requires us to buy a lap counter in order to use the big track. I have tons of carpet track tires that I can put on it and I want a really tunable truck for a great price. If this one doesn't work out can yall list some great trucks that would be good for racing? Thanks in advance.The TLR 22 4 is the TLRs old 4wd buggy with the belt drive system. This was the buggy before the 22X4 which is shaft driven. The belt drive systems are ok now but most racers use shaft drive now. 127 dollars and a roller. Not that bad for just a roller. The kit from TLR direct was 242 dollars. So that roller price isn't that bad. Still I would rather build a kit than get a roller. With a kit you see how the car is put together and make your own changes right out of the box. The TLR 22 4 is discontinued and the new 22 x 4 replace that car.
Still if we're to buy, find parts for it so you know you can still get parts that goes for any discontinued model. With my b74.1 they released the .2 a few weeks ago and the .2 and .1 share most of the same parts.
The TLR would, as long as you can get the parts to keep it running. The Raider, it depends on which version it is. If its a 2015, or any of the versions with plastic gears, you are gonna spend a couple hundred to make that race ready.Would it be a good race buggy? I have an awesome track nearby in Beaverton and it's called PDX underground. It's full carpet and I really want to get into the racing scene. I have a vintage team associated rc10 t3 that I race but it's so old I want something newer that will keep up with the competition. If I do get it I think I'm gonna save up for like the reedy black box or something like that. My track also requires us to buy a lap counter in order to use the big track. I have tons of carpet track tires that I can put on it and I want a really tunable truck for a great price. If this one doesn't work out can yall list some great trucks that would be good for racing? Thanks in advance.