Good buy or naw?

[Lukedavis]

The TLR would, as long as you can get the parts to keep it running. The Raider, it depends on which version it is. If its a 2015, or any of the versions with plastic gears, you are gonna spend a couple hundred to make that race ready.

I'm gonna go with the 22-4 2.0

 

[DavidB1126]

With that TLR 22 4 it is a couple years old (i think 5 years old or so) I would try to get more current car. There is 2wd and 4wd buggies, 2wd and 4wd short course, mini t/b and truggies. First I would go to your LHS track and see what they run. There is stock and mod racing. For 4wd buggy stock is 13.5 motors. For 2wd buggy stock is 17.5 motors. For mod I believe it is anywhere from 6.5 to 8.5 in buggies. If you are doing carpet get a kit for high grip kit for carpet or Astro turf.

2wd buggy kits
TLR 22 5.0 AC
Associated B6.4 or B6.3
Yokomo YZ 2 CAL 3.1
Xray xb2C 22

4wd kits
TLR 22 x 4
Associated B74.1 or B74.2
Yokomo YZ4 SF2
Xray xb4C 22
Tekno EB410.2

2wd short course
TLR 22 SCTE
Associated RC10SC6.X

4wd short course
TLR SCTE 3.0
Teko SCT410.3

Truggy
Tekno ET410.2

Mini
Losi Mini B
Losi Mini T

Don't know about stadium trucks.

If you want the TLR 22 4 then sure but again it's belt drive and a older model. I would prefer to get a current kit and build one up so you know how the car goes together. Either way you will need batteries and electronics. If you want to get a roller for cheaper than the kit price then look at local RC sell groups on FB and eBay. All the 4wd cars I listed are more newer and current shaft drive. Shaft drive is more reliable than belt drive imo. The belt can slip and get wore down.
The shafts can bend and outdrive cups can get wore down but it's not that common.
There are stadium trucks but I didn't list them since I dont know alot about them .

lap counter

Known as transponders. They can get expensive real quick.

I want a really tunable truck for a great price

All those trucks I listed are very very tunable. For the price I would look at the associated b6.3 if still in stock. And b74.1 if it is still in stock. These cars were discontinued about 3 to 6 months ago and parts are still available.
Vs the TLR 22 4 that was discontinued about 3 years ago I think

 

[Lukedavis]

With that TLR 22 4 it is a couple years old (i think 5 years old or so) I would try to get more current car. There is 2wd and 4wd buggies, 2wd and 4wd short course, mini t/b and truggies. First I would go to your LHS track and see what they run. There is stock and mod racing. For 4wd buggy stock is 13.5 motors. For 2wd buggy stock is 17.5 motors. For mod I believe it is anywhere from 6.5 to 8.5 in buggies. If you are doing carpet get a kit for high grip kit for carpet or Astro turf.

2wd buggy kits
TLR 22 5.0 AC
Associated B6.4 or B6.3
Yokomo YZ 2 CAL 3.1
Xray xb2C 22

4wd kits
TLR 22 x 4
Associated B74.1 or B74.2
Yokomo YZ4 SF2
Xray xb4C 22
Tekno EB410.2

2wd short course
TLR 22 SCTE

4wd short course
TLR SCTE 3.0
Teko SCT410.3

Truggy
Tekno ET410.2

Mini
Losi Mini B
Losi Mini T

Don't know about stadium trucks.

If you want the TLR 22 4 then sure but again it's belt drive and a older model. I would prefer to get a current kit and build one up so you know how the car goes together. Either way you will need batteries and electronics. If you want to get a roller for cheaper than the kit price then look at local RC sell groups on FB and eBay. All the 4wd cars I listed are more newer and current shaft drive. Shaft drive is more reliable than belt drive imo. The belt can slip and get wore down.
The shafts can bend and outdrive cups can get wore down but it's not that common.
There are stadium trucks but I didn't list them since I dont know alot about them .

Known as transponders. They can get expensive real quick.

All those trucks I listed are very very tunable. For the price I would look at the associated b6.3 if still in stock. And b74.1 if it is still in stock. These cars were discontinued about 3 to 6 months ago and parts are still available.
Vs the TLR 22 4 that was discontinued about 3 years ago I think

I have checked and on eBay, there are tons of parts for the 22-4 2.0. I have all the electronics needed besides the transponder. I think I'm gonna go with the 22-4 2.0 and then go from there.

 

[DavidB1126]

For the xray cars I listed, they come out with new models every year. If you can find a earlier model like 2021, 2020, 2019 I think it would be better for the price. Xray is over seas and expensive. Parts are still available in the us. I would try to go with either tekno, TLR or associated because they are based here in the us and parts are available for current models.

I have checked and on eBay, there are tons of parts for the 22-4 2.0. I have all the electronics needed besides the transponder. I think I'm gonna go with the 22-4 2.0 and then go from there.

Ok. Also you have to choose if you are doing stock or mod. I would rather do stock because I dont know how well the belt will hold up for mod
For electronics I would go with a hobbywing xr10 justock 13.5 or xr10 Pro 13.5 (for stock racing) there are other brands like tekin. Radio. If you are racing not alot I would get a budget radio like a Radiolink RC4GS which I have and plan to put in my b74. Or if you are racing more frequently and more to the competition side I would get the futaba 4pm or sanwa mt44. And then batteries. Dont know about the TLR 22 4 but most current 4wd buggies needs shorty 2s lipos or lihv packs. I would look at SMC, promatch racing and gensacearespammers for batteries.

 

[biggman100]

2wd short course
TLR 22 SCTE

You forgot one for this list, and, yes, i know there are others, but, my personal preference would be the Team Associated RC10SC6.X.

 

[DavidB1126]

Yes I did forget that. I forgot associated even made a sct kit. Xray also makes a sct and a 1/10 truggy but I never seen those cars ran over here so far. I am more used to 2 and 4wd buggies because that's what my old LHS ran the most.

 

[Addict Rc]

If you do it’s discontinued so finding parts will be hard

 

[DavidB1126]

If you do it’s discontinued so finding parts will be hard

Agreed. But he did say he found parts on ebay. I wouldn't depend on eBay for stuff. I would rather go on amain and a LHS for parts. If those places don't have parts for that car, I wouldn't get that car.

 

[Lukedavis]

For the xray cars I listed, they come out with new models every year. If you can find a earlier model like 2021, 2020, 2019 I think it would be better for the price. Xray is over seas and expensive. Parts are still available in the us. I would try to go with either tekno, TLR or associated because they are based here in the us and parts are available for current models.

Ok. Also you have to choose if you are doing stock or mod. I would rather do stock because I dont know how well the belt will hold up for mod
For electronics I would go with a hobbywing xr10 justock 13.5 or xr10 Pro 13.5 (for stock racing) there are other brands like tekin. Radio. If you are racing not alot I would get a budget radio like a Radiolink RC4GS which I have and plan to put in my b74. Or if you are racing more frequently and more to the competition side I would get the futaba 4pm or sanwa mt44. And then batteries. Dont know about the TLR 22 4 but most current 4wd buggies needs shorty 2s lipos or lihv packs. I would look at SMC, promatch racing and gensacearespammers for batteries.

it appears that it can take both a shorty and a regular-size lipo.

 

[biggman100]

Yes I did forget that. I forgot associated even made a sct kit. Xray also makes a sct and a 1/10 truggy but I never seen those cars ran over here so far. I am more used to 2 and 4wd buggies because that's what my old LHS ran the most.

The tracks here run pretty much everything. They even have a couple indoor tracks for the mini's. We have one track that does 2 and 4WD SCT, buggies, truggies, rally cars, 2WD sprint cars, dirt stock cars, mudboss, modified and a motorcycle class, which is hilarious to watch. I dont race RC anymore, since i have 1:1 race cars, but, the track we race at on saturday, the RC track is right next door, so, sometimes ill wander over and see what is going on.

Agreed. But he did say he found parts on ebay. I wouldn't depend on eBay for stuff. I would rather go on amain and a LHS for parts. If those places don't have parts for that car, I wouldn't get that car.

This, i do have to disagree with. Since the nearest hobby shop is more than 60 miles away, except for my Associated stuff, which i have been getting from A-Main lately, i get almost everything else from eBay and Jenny's RC, and i have never had an issue with eBay for parts, sliders, rollers, and even running cars. My latest cars from eBay were an HPI Jumpshot MT, Arrma Fury BLX slider, Associated Trophy Rat parts, and, i would dare say i spend, on average, $300-$400 a month just on eBay.

 

[DavidB1126]

If your hobby shop if far far away I would agree. Maybe it's because I rarely use eBay? I only ordered once from Jenny's rc. They're prices are good. I got a Traxxas 272R transmission from there for like 50 dollars off. That transmission directly from Traxxas is 140. But the thing with Jenny's rc, I had only seen stock parts for the rcs. Haven't seen any like aftermarket parts on there like aluminum pieces. (Maybe just because of my cars. I look at the rustler vxl page alot on there) Also with Jenny's rc I got my order 3 days after putting in the order and 4 days before the expected deliver date. (I think they are located in New Jersey and I live in MD) I actually feel a little sad for people that have to travel more than a hour to a hobby shop. Also we had seen a lot of shops close up due to covid and rc and people into the hobby in general.
With eBay it can be a good seller or a bad seller. I only ordered 1 part from eBay before and it said they had it in stock but the seller contacted me saying they don't have that color but they had another color which I can understand. (It was a part I already have and I just wanted it so I really didn't care as much. ) Also my dad is a DJ and he has been trying to sell some of his older equipment on eBay. He got bidders but they never paid so I guess scammers? Well actually I ordered some custom 3d printed mounts off of eBay. Those sellers were good and shipping was ok. It was through USPS which in my area isn't good. It took about 2 weeks to get it but as long as I get the thing I needed I am fine.

 

[biggman100]

If your hobby shop if far far away I would agree. Maybe it's because I rarely use eBay? I only ordered once from Jenny's rc. They're prices are good. I got a Traxxas 272R transmission from there for like 50 dollars off. That transmission directly from Traxxas is 140. But the thing with Jenny's rc, I had only seen stock parts for the rcs. Haven't seen any like aftermarket parts on there like aluminum pieces. (Maybe just because of my cars. I look at the rustler vxl page alot on there) Also with Jenny's rc I got my order 3 days after putting in the order and 4 days before the expected deliver date. (I think they are located in New Jersey and I live in MD) I actually feel a little sad for people that have to travel more than a hour to a hobby shop. Also we had seen a lot of shops close up due to covid and rc and people into the hobby in general.

Covid had nothing to do with no shops being around here. It was all finances and politics, and, we havent had a hobby shop, other than one that only deals in slot cars, trains and plastic model kits (and that one isnt in N.Y., its in PA, about 25 miles from me), within 30 miles of here for more than ten years, The closest shop to me is Small Addictions in Binghamton, N.Y., and from my house to their front door is 67.9 miles. They built a federal prison in this area, which caused taxes to skyrocket for some reason, and a lot of small shops here couldnt afford it so they closed, but it wasn't just just hobby shops, several other small business, like sewing and dress making shops, crafts shops, even a couple small service stations all closed. Fast forward 33 years, and the prison got shut down, and now taxes are taking another hit to make up for it. The nearest Hobby Town from here is just shy of 100 miles, and they used to be two streets over from the house i lived in when i graduated high school. It wasn't a Hobby Town when it was here, but, at one point, it was the largest hobby shop in N.Y. Now, they are just outside Syracuse, and, i have no clue how far the nearest A-Main is, so, shopping online, at least for me, is the best way to do it.

 

[DavidB1126]

it appears that it can take both a shorty and a regular-size lipo.

So you can either do 2s LiPo or 2s LiHV packs. Lipo is 7.4 and Lihv is 7.6. I would look into these brands

Promatch racing
SMC
gensacearespammers
CHNL

Also look for batteries with a 5mm bullet inboard. Most racers use 5mm bullet connectors but I seen some use regular connectors like Xt60, xt90, and deans.

Protek also has LiHV packs but I wouldnt recommend them. I heard bad reviews.

Also speaking of lipos. Get a lipo fireproof charging / storage pouch. It is probably a requirement at the track since it is indoors. Lipo fires are nasty. Never experienced one but heard of them and seen videos.

 

[biggman100]

So you can either do 2s LiPo or 2s LiHV packs. Lipo is 7.4 and Lihv is 7.6. I would look into these brands

Promatch racing
SMC
gensacearespammers
CHNL

Also look for batteries with a 5mm bullet inboard. Most racers use 5mm bullet connectors but I seen some use regular connectors like Xt60, xt90, and deans.

Protek also has LiHV packs but I wouldnt recommend them. I heard bad reviews.

Also speaking of lipos. Get a lipo fireproof charging / storage pouch. It is probably a requirement at the track since it is indoors. Lipo fires are nasty. Never experienced one but heard of them and seen videos.

After having my house burn to the ground, and lipo's being one of two suspected causes (the other was electrical. They never did determine the actual cause), i learned the hard way you can never be too careful with them. As for lipo's though, talk to @Greywolf74 about them, or look for his posts about them. He has done a bunch of research on them, and has a list of which ones to get, and which ones to avoid, as well as a bunch of tips on them.

 

[DavidB1126]

Covid had nothing to do with no shops being around here. It was all finances and politics, and, we havent had a hobby shop, other than one that only deals in slot cars, trains and plastic model kits (and that one isnt in N.Y., its in PA, about 25 miles from me), within 30 miles of here for more than ten years, The closest shop to me is Small Addictions in Binghamton, N.Y., and from my house to their front door is 67.9 miles. They built a federal prison in this area, which caused taxes to skyrocket for some reason, and a lot of small shops here couldnt afford it so they closed, but it wasn't just just hobby shops, several other small business, like sewing and dress making shops, crafts shops, even a couple small service stations all closed. Fast forward 33 years, and the prison got shut down, and now taxes are taking another hit to make up for it. The nearest Hobby Town from here is just shy of 100 miles, and they used to be two streets over from the house i lived in when i graduated high school. It wasn't a Hobby Town when it was here, but, at one point, it was the largest hobby shop in N.Y. Now, they are just outside Syracuse, and, i have no clue how far the nearest A-Main is, so, shopping online, at least for me, is the best way to do it.

Amain has 2 warehouses. One in California and the other in Charlotte NC. Taxes and rent. I knew the owner of my old LHS. Rent was 6500 per month at his place. He also owns a computer shop down the road so he closed up the track and moved the hobby shop into his computer shop. He also told me about other things he had to pay. Like over 8k for all new black carpet, lap timing system, maintenance to his shop.

After having my house burn to the ground, and lipo's being one of two suspected causes (the other was electrical. They never did determine the actual cause), i learned the hard way you can never be too careful with them. As for lipo's though, talk to @Greywolf74 about them, or look for his posts about them. He has done a bunch of research on them, and has a list of which ones to get, and which ones to avoid, as well as a bunch of tips on them.

Oh you were the guy with that. You moved into a new house by now right? Or rebuilt?
Also I feel like a lot of back yard dirt tracks had been popping up. There is 2 backyard tracks in DE I want to go during the summer. Idk how long they had been open for.

 

[Bogda89]

Would it be a good race buggy? I have an awesome track nearby in Beaverton and it's called PDX underground. It's full carpet and I really want to get into the racing scene. I have a vintage team associated rc10 t3 that I race but it's so old I want something newer that will keep up with the competition. If I do get it I think I'm gonna save up for like the reedy black box or something like that. My track also requires us to buy a lap counter in order to use the big track. I have tons of carpet track tires that I can put on it and I want a really tunable truck for a great price. If this one doesn't work out can yall list some great trucks that would be good for racing? Thanks in advance.

Tekno eb410

 

[DavidB1126]

Tekno eb410

Agreed. I heard the car is heavy so they recommend it more for mod racing over stock.

 

[Bogda89]

Agreed. I heard the car is heavy so they recommend it more for mod racing over stock.

Probably it is slightly heavier but not by much, I can check weight right now. In reality unless you are pro driver or really good the difference is not gonna be huge. But it's very durable, built like a tank, and drives slightly different because of front weight bias
Just checked the weight it's around 1700 grams, it does have some carbon bits but also big battery and esc.

Using lcg battery and lighter esc probably can cut at least 50 grams. Minimum weight is 1613 grams, so let's say being 50 grams or even 100 grams over minimum weight will not give you competitive adventage if you are noob

 

[DavidB1126]

with my b74.1, that is my track car and my club racer. Just going to do club racing once in a while and have a durable track car. With my slash I had to go back to the pits every 5 mins for something on the car. I am just looking to go battery after battery on the track and a few races on the weekend and nothing breaks (hopefully) I am about half way done until it is a roller. I have to do shocks, sway bars (front and rear) servo and motor mounts and battery strap and should be ready to go. After it is wheels and tires which I have but need to glue up and paint the body. For electronics I plan to go with the Hobbywing Xr10 justock 13.5 combo and a tekin or protek servo. I am planning to start out with my radiolink radio then Ill upgrade to a mid range futaba if I race like every week.

 

[Lukedavis]

I understand all of your help, but I think I'm gonna get it. plus, I might get the losi 1/10 tenacity DB Pro to bash with my buddies.