Going to upgrade my T-Maxx steering servo and Servo horn

[Little chicken T-Maxx]

stock steering servo for the T-maxx have to replace the servo because holds the servo horn on is stripped .

What would be the best servo for me to get and Horn servo

 

[Rolex]

Some great info for you in this thread... https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/servo-database.76246/
If you still need info, just ask.

 

[WoodiE]

Some great info for you in this thread... https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/servo-database.76246/
If you still need info, just ask.

@Little chicken T-Maxx the above link can be useful but sadly greatly outdated and doesn't include many of the more popular models and/or manufactures as I don't think it's been updated in some time.

To help, I would recommend checking out the Savox SW-1210SG. It's plenty powerful for your large monster truck tires, waterproof and has metal gears.

 

[Rolex]

Thanks for that, @WoodiE, it sure is outdated. It's 9 years old.
Stick with Hitec or Savox. Those are the only servos I use on my trucks and helis. Both excellent products. Just make note of metal gears and torque specs for a solid reliable servo.

 

[cbaker65]

We are all out dated!.....

 

[olds97_lss]

I'm partial to a servo that doesn't exist anymore for t/b and steering for that matter, hitec 985MG. They sell a similar one now that's digital, the HS-7985MG. Same specs as the old one, but I'm guessing it's holding power is better since it's digital, they have a much higher clock rate than analog, so they fight harder to stay where you point them.

For a decent budget servo, the savox 0231MG isn't bad, or spend about the same as the hitec and get a high torque savox like the SW120-SG. That has near the same speed as the hitec, but 100oz more torque. You need to get a glitch buster cap to go with either savox as they are power hogs. The cap plugs into an open port on the receiver, or into a Y cable on the receiver to supply instant current to help avoid a brown out when the servo first moves. I'd suggest you only run any of the 3 servos with a proper hump pack or lipo receiver pack. Standard AA's just can't deliver the current needed.

I'm only suggesting waterproof/water resistant servos. I don't buy anything else anymore. Not worth the hassle with how I wash my rigs or where I drive them. Waterproof is a must.

 

[Little chicken T-Maxx]

@Little chicken T-Maxx the above link can be useful but sadly greatly outdated and doesn't include many of the more popular models and/or manufactures as I don't think it's been updated in some time.

To help, I would recommend checking out the Savox SW-1210SG. It's plenty powerful for your large monster truck tires, waterproof and has metal gears.

 

[WoodiE]

@Little chicken T-Maxx so you went with something weaker and much slower... good job?

 

[olds97_lss]

@Little chicken T-Maxx so you went with something weaker and much slower... good job?

I kind of reviewed that one in comparison to a few others:
https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/no-name-waterproof-servo-ks-3620.113514/

My first post in that thread was an out of truck comparison. Later on at post 13, I had ran it in my revo and it was far too slow to use.

 

[Little chicken T-Maxx]

@Little chicken T-Maxx so you went with something weaker and much slower... good job?

Did my research found one that was fairly good rated had good reviews, reasonably price what's good that 19.99 it seems like a real good so good to me.

 

[WoodiE]

Did my research found one that was fairly good rated had good reviews, reasonably price what's good that 19.99 it seems like a real good so good to me.

Keep us posted on how it works out for ya!

 

[Little chicken T-Maxx]

Have one slight casually to t Maxx the rear shock blue out .

My neighbor was driving it Hill most like 2 feet high and have to replace the shock is is leak

I'm glad it was a shock and not eight arms

 

[Little chicken T-Maxx]

What would cause a T-Maxx rear in and tires to be kicked out just rebuild All 4 shocks and the right side is the worst The both rear tires are is out of Center what could be causing it could it be the shocks just rebuilt them

 

[olds97_lss]

Did you take the rear turnbuckles off for any reason? If so, you may have put one or both on the wrong side of the axle carrier... been a while since I had a t-maxx and I've only ever had RPM carriers, but if you put the turnbuckle on the wrong side, it will cause bad toe as the shocks compress. They should screw on from underneath. So, from the top, it should be axle carrier, then turnbuckle/rodend, then the screw to hold it on.

 

[Little chicken T-Maxx]

Here are some pictures of it

 

[olds97_lss]

I'm not seeing much of a toe issue on the rear.

 

[Little chicken T-Maxx]

I'm not seeing much of a toe issue on the rear.

 

[olds97_lss]

did you check your ball ends to make sure they are on the bottom of the axle carriers? If they are, then just adjust them so you have 0 degrees of toe on the rear. You may have messed with your pivot balls too. Tightening or loosening those a turn or two will change the toe as well. Screwing the pivot balls in will increase toe-in due to the arms being "shorter" than they were previously. It appears you may have backed them out a bit, or didn't screw them back in as far if you had the pivot balls out of the arms.

 

[cbaker65]

Ball ends adjust the camber ,but also effect the toe-in ,you would have to re-adjust the tie rods to add toe-in or out!

I think there is suppose to be a little toe-in!...

 

[olds97_lss]

Ball ends adjust the camber ,but also effect the toe-in ,you would have to re-adjust the tie rods to add toe-in or out!

I think there is suppose to be a little toe-in!...

I always ran my MT's pretty straight in the rear. I guess if your racing... then a little tire scrub isn't bad, but with all the concrete running I do, I toe in the fronts just a hair, but try to keep the rears at zero toe.