getting back to running MGT 4.6

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cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
2,377
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
if shipping wasn't so outrageous anymore or were closer would send ya some lol! nobody deserves to be left stranded without fuel!
weirdly though my lhs doesn't sell by gallons, only quarts because their shipping costs and to keep fresher fuel if slow selling.
Nah ,I am good ,I have 1 tank left ,an I don't have my truck together yet ,I will get fuel in a few weeks ,it is only
$45.00 bucks a gallon where I get it with free shipping delivered to my door!

I looked at my 5th Baja shock ,it is enormous ,in order to make it fit ,I would have to cut out the center piece out of
the top a-arm ,I think it can be done ,but don't really want to if there is another solution ,I think that I might just
go with the stock Savage shocks!

As far as measurement go ,it will take me a little time to get that!

I just want a little longer & more shock travel ,an I think that I can get that from them with some fluid & spring
load variations!

Are you using the stock blue springs ,if so ,those are the soft ones ,I am using the stiff copper colored ones ,I think
that the red ones are the stiffer ones!
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
looks like it has single stock shock per corner, red on the front and almost looks like white or grey on the backs. should have it on monday/tuesday so i can see what it actually is.
i have never actually seen the stock shocks in person lol
I'm just curios on the savage if the closed length eye to eye is short enough where the shock will bottom out before the truck does and blow shocks on harder impacts.
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
ran it today, got 3.5 tanks out of it and nothing broke new personal record!! forget how much i love this truck. set up a snow ramp and a few BMX ramps the neighbor kids brought out was pretty cute lol. even off only hitting half a ramp or sliding over the launch just leveled out with a little throttle blip and took off for more. tagged a trash can pretty good but no damage.

also think it is stuck in 2nd though so need to figure that out. didnt realize it at first thought it was stuck in first. but then near the end realized in the snow it would take off really well but on the street was a bit hesitant. glad i bought new clutch shoes for it when i put it away.
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
2,377
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
ran it today, got 3.5 tanks out of it and nothing broke new personal record!! forget how much i love this truck. set up a snow ramp and a few BMX ramps the neighbor kids brought out was pretty cute lol. even off only hitting half a ramp or sliding over the launch just leveled out with a little throttle blip and took off for more. tagged a trash can pretty good but no damage.

also think it is stuck in 2nd though so need to figure that out. didnt realize it at first thought it was stuck in first. but then near the end realized in the snow it would take off really well but on the street was a bit hesitant. glad i bought new clutch shoes for it when i put it away.
If it is stuck in second ,then you need to tighten up the 2spd paw a little!

If it is stuck in first ,back the set screw up about an 1/8 turn!
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
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it was not very torque-y on good grip surfaces and took a bit to get to speed, i thought it was my tune was way off but temps/smoke was right, hindsight 20/20 should have been obvious as as soon as i got into slicker surfaces it had as much pep as i remember it did. do you recall what factory setting is for threads out from bottom these are supposed to be? might start with a good turn or 2 in and back it off, would rather be in first and have it not shift up then second and not shift down id think
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
2,377
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
it was not very torque-y on good grip surfaces and took a bit to get to speed, i thought it was my tune was way off but temps/smoke was right, hindsight 20/20 should have been obvious as as soon as i got into slicker surfaces it had as much pep as i remember it did. do you recall what factory setting is for threads out from bottom these are supposed to be? might start with a good turn or 2 in and back it off, would rather be in first and have it not shift up then second and not shift down id think
Yea ,those would hender the shift ,not leaned out enough ,but you could have that way do to the cold!
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
after cleaning and looking the truck over, I'm realizing how much i am disliking the 23mm hex adapters. if its not the axle nut backing off, its the adapter nut... definitely going to be looking for some 17mm adapters instead. also i noticed how much play my steering has. I'm guessing that aluminum bell-crank assembly is worthwhile to get, and I'm finding 2 options, the GPM(20$) no servo saver in the design, or the Factory Team one (60$) which looks to implement a servo saver in the design. has anyone tried either/both of these? going to try to swing factory team one but if its not worth it don't want to spend the extra money.
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
2,377
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
after cleaning and looking the truck over, I'm realizing how much i am disliking the 23mm hex adapters. if its not the axle nut backing off, its the adapter nut... definitely going to be looking for some 17mm adapters instead. also i noticed how much play my steering has. I'm guessing that aluminum bell-crank assembly is worthwhile to get, and I'm finding 2 options, the GPM(20$) no servo saver in the design, or the Factory Team one (60$) which looks to implement a servo saver in the design. has anyone tried either/both of these? going to try to swing factory team one but if its not worth it don't want to spend the extra money.
Mine is an aluminum upgrade but has the tension spring in it ,I can't remember if it had slop in it or not!

The slop may just come from ball joints ,but ,sense its just a monster truck ,an a basher ,I don't worry too
much about it!

Its not like a 100 mph speed run car were it has to have no wobble!...:hehe:

You could maybe use some tiny O-rings to slip on the ball joints with some silicone lube!
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
very true, i guess probably just trying to over-think/engineer it in my head like usual, tempted to try to fabricate one out of steel/aluminum, but i really don't hear to often of these going out unless severely put to the test. need to get new hub carrier bearings all around though i believe, or at least all the inner ones. its weird how the inner ones are falling apart, but the outers look to still be good.
 

olds97_lss

RCNT VIP
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18,601
Location
Dekalb, IL
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very true, i guess probably just trying to over-think/engineer it in my head like usual, tempted to try to fabricate one out of steel/aluminum, but i really don't hear to often of these going out unless severely put to the test. need to get new hub carrier bearings all around though i believe, or at least all the inner ones. its weird how the inner ones are falling apart, but the outers look to still be good.
What size are the inners vs the outers?

I noticed the ones on my stampede don't last long, like the ones on the stock revo hubs. The inner bearing is thin and doesn't last as long. RPM carriers on the revo/t-maxx's help by allowing the inner bearing to be a larger one.
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
they are both 6 x 12 x 4, i am tempted to swap the aluminum carriers to the RPM ones, as they utilize larger bearings (6 x 15 x 5). but i like the aluminum lol, for now I'm going to just go with new bearings then eventually go for rpm carriers. from what i gather aluminum ones tear bearings up like no other.
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
kind of been awhile since i posted anything on this truck, really havent run it very much lately with the other MGT project in progress. found an ofna 1/7 250cc tank from i think a car at the LHS, i believe i am going to be trying to mount up to it. only issue is that this tank is huge.. and pretty flat. going to take some interesting mounting. the biggest part i am concerned about is that in the stock location i am going to have to elevate it to clear the steering servo. the one end i am going to need to fabricate a brace that will mount to the reverse servo mount point, and use a post for the rear. i am tempted to remove the rear reverse servo mount point with a dremel to try to lower it that extra 1/4"-1/2".

side note: does anyone know what shock towers these are?
95203

initially i thought they were GPM shock towers, but the color is wrong, and the center structure is different.
including the typical "GPM" logo area being not solid thus not having the graphic. any help or ideas would be appreciated.
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
ran again last night, got it really close to dialed in on the tune and ended up losing a driveshaft pin/set screw. now waiting for that to come in the mail. may rob one off the .21R, that one is on hold until better weather anyway.
mid repair noticed the driveshaft cup had decent play so decided to disassemble and throw new bearings in it.
good thing i did, the bearing on the one was toast. was the balls managed to pop out and find themselves in the case.
I'm very lucky as none of the teeth were chewed up, but there were a few balls embedded into the plastic where the outdrive bearings go, had to pop them out of the plastic with a screwdriver. was not able to get the drive cup off the pinion gear shaft as the screw is very set in there. luckily there is minimal play and the bearings still roll well and no grinding/binding/catching, so wasn't crucial that i take it apart (still bothers me, but nothing i could do would get it to break loose, going to try heat next time).
while it was apart made up a diff brace, need to trim so the turnbuckles will clear, but i think it will look good and hold sturdy. (will need to eventually do one on the front, but need more bearings before i tear into that one.)
i am tempted to fit that 250cc ofna tank on this truck. if not for the only reason its getting alot harder finding tanks for these.
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
amazingly enough found a new diff case at the LHS in the box of RC10GT parts, so picked that up, and found the upper A-Arm chassis mounts so grabbed them as well. have to say i am really pleased with my LHS for charging sticker price on these types of items, diff cases are about 20$ on ebay, but they sold it to me for the listed 8 or 9$. got to mess around with the owners barrage scale crawler as i was there, thing is pretty fun.
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
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decided yesterday, that it was as good as ever time to tear down the shocks for clean and refill, were definitely alot dirtier than i like for them to get sadly but got that corrected. some elbow grease, toothbrush and dish soap, and Q-Tips later and got them all scrubbed up.
the boots ever since i got them were not in the best shape but I've been having a really hard time finding replacements at a reasonable price, so kind of did the best i could with those.
95294

also found that the bathroom accessory hanger on our mirror has the perfect size slots for these to sit into.
95291

got them all torn down then drained them out and refilled with some 50wt, might be a bit heavy oil but at the moment all i had. for the most part tuned out pretty good! one of the dampeners have a little bit of stick on the bottom though, don't know really whats catching, cleaned it out the best i could and was trying to look in there with a flashlight etc. and couldnt really see anything that would cause concern.
95292

95293

whenever i rebuild these always gets me a bit extra stressed just for the fact that if i mess anything up, they are really difficult to get parts for.
got some other aspects of the truck cleaned up as well, shock towers had some grime build up, manifold was really bad, had to get sandpaper and scotchbrite pads to clean it up. turned out well though. swapped pipes between the trucks too. didnt seem to make sense to have a pipe meant for a .28 on a .21 and a pipe for a .21 on a .28. havent been able to run since the pipe swap though. got the stuff to rebuild the driveshafts in the yesterday so i let them cure all day today, and ended up getting an axial ax10 scorpion for free, so worked on that a bit.
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
was warm enough was able to run it yesterday (my lady has now named the truck "RED"). for some reason i am getting some binding of the suspension in the back, only happens when i snug up the bolt that goes through the top of the shocks. needing to add a few washers I'm thinking? can't tell if its just the screw getting torqued down that is pinching the shocks? they are really close to the shock tower though and you can see where some of the anodizing has been rubbed off from contact. dont understand why it wasn't binding before but after i removed and cleaned them they are?
also realized there werent any eyelet inserts as i was taking them off, so cut down some ones i got in the kit for the Maxx shocks, wasn't able to leave them as long as i wanted as the screw through the top is barely long enough as it is. (as hoping id be able to see if i could get them spaced further out.
forget how fast this thing is, the road in front of the house is finally almost snow/ice free, so was able to get some really good grip especially since they chip sealed it last year. was having to really slow down to turn around kept trying to flip over (did twice, and second time bumper my engine a bit and messed my gear mesh up.
also having issues finding an exhaust gasket, the manifold that sits over the spout off the engine has way to tight of clearance, triesx splitting the gasket before i can even get it started.
gonna try RTV maybe? thoughts? would try an o-ring but can't think of one that would stand the temps.
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
lol don't happen to have a part number? they must be doing maintenance or updating their site as there are no products displayed at the moment. the one that originally came on it was more of an O-Ring type of deal that sat in the groove of the nub.
might try swapping shock towers back to plastic see if that will give me the clearance for the shocks to shock towers.
 

olds97_lss

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18,601
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Dekalb, IL
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Yeah, I googled the header to see what you were dealing with. While the THS are thin... not sure they are thin enough. Odds are, your going to have to get a normal one and cut it just to end up with the ring that goes in the exhaust flange recess.

Perhaps a 1/10 gasket, cut off everything but the rib section in the middle. Should be stretchy enough to fit a big block, but end up thin enough to fit.
https://www.rcplanet.com/engines/exhaust-system-parts/losi-rear-exhaust-manifold-gasket-2-losa9348

Odd thing about THS, the site works on my phone, but not on a desktop... odd.

I was able to change my browser user agent to mobile, then get to the ths page to get the part number (THS 8012). Then found them on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/THS-RACING-THS8012-Silicone-Coupler/dp/B004QJWSQ0

The LRP ones were pretty thin as well. I just know the HPI ones for the savage were pretty thick. Probably because the savage has the pipe hanging off the side and it flops around a lot. So they make the flange on the header larger, then use a thicker gasket so it doesn't get chewed up so fast.
 

D3MON

RCNT Talkaholic
Messages
400
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
Thank you!
going to try RTV for now so i don't have to wait, might have to use that idea for the 1/10 one, going to head to the LHS probably today, hope they have one, and go from there if i need to get a THS one.
it is very strange how their site isnt working on desktop but is on mobile.
 

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