Getting back to running MGT 4.6

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D3MON

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well, on the road to getting my associated MGT 4.6 back to running, and in working order after some years of not running it. and re learning what was wrong when i had to leave it in storage (really wishing i had been able to fix everything beforehand instead of having to learn what was wrong again). first thing was disassembling the engine cleaning out any gunk in it. was a brand new axial .28 spec 2s, was barely broken in plus 1 tank. on first inspection it was locked up was not wanting to rotate, so tore it down, wasn't any rust on the internals but was nitro residue in the crank journal, got that cleaned out and spins freely, got the carb cleaned out as it had the same issue.
as it is a learning experience will be posting as i go in case questions may arise.
 

D3MON

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running into an issue currently with bearings in the hub carriers, axle was very loose in the carrier so decided to tear down to figure out why.
- first issue
composite pillow ball screws, top on that corner is in there very tight and seized and is trying to strip.
next issue the bearings were no longer bearings, just an outer and inner race with bearing guide. having issues with removing the outer races though. first one came out in pieces, some prying and "tapping" involved, inner side is being an issue, not able to pry very well.
any tips?
 

D3MON

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thinking going to resort to dremeling the outer bearing race out. really wishing i would have been cleaning this thing better. so much dirt and grime in the bulks... no time like the present to learn that kind of stuff though i guess.
 

wannarunem

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(really wishing i had been able to fix everything beforehand instead of having to learn what was wrong again).
i know exactly what you mean. I did the same thing with my Savage and 10 years later trying to remember everything that was wrong was a pita! Next time it will be in perfect working order when I let it rest for a while.
 

cbaker65

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thinking going to resort to dremeling the outer bearing race out. really wishing i would have been cleaning this thing better. so much dirt and grime in the bulks... no time like the present to learn that kind of stuff though i guess.
Are the hubs plastic or aluminum?

Plastic ones ,bearings are easy to get out ,aluminum ones are hard as hell to get out!

I took a real tiny drill bit ,an drilled a hole in the flange on the inside of the hub were I
can get a tiny screw driver to punch out the reese!
 

olds97_lss

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Are the hubs plastic or aluminum?

Plastic ones ,bearings are easy to get out ,aluminum ones are hard as hell to get out!

I took a real tiny drill bit ,an drilled a hole in the flange on the inside of the hub were I
can get a tiny screw driver to punch out the reese!
I'll have to keep that in mind. Will probably become useful when it's time to replace the bearing in my outcast hot racing motor mount. Although, what do you use that's small enough, but yet strong enough to break the race? I'm assuming your drilling a hole in the outside of the hub so you can fold the race in on itself. Bearing races are usually made of very hard stuff, so they don't really bend, but they do shatter. Just takes a lot of hammer to do it.
 

D3MON

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They are aluminum, I was thinking to get I dremel and grind through on opposite sides or to at least make a lip to hammer it through.
 

cbaker65

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They are aluminum, I was thinking to get I dremel and grind through on opposite sides or to at least make a lip to hammer it through.
Usually ,at least one of the bearings come out ,if one does ,then it exposes the reese on the inside ,the exposed
flange is where I drill the hole at ,towards the reese ,,then you can take a small nail an try to punch it out!

This has happen to me several times with my aluminum hubs ,I had mentioned it several times on my F.E.
bearing thread on my MGT.
I want to go back to the original plastic hubs because the bearings don't last in the aluminum ones ,they
are hard on bearings an eat them up!

After you get the bearing reeses out ,try to cut a slot in the flange so you can use a small flat head screw driver
to punch the reese out!...:cool:
 

olds97_lss

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If I had been thinking, I'd have cut a slot in the back of the motor mount so I could get to the bearing race before installing it on my outcast. I guess since I'd be there and taking it out to remove it, I'm not as concerned with it staying intact anyway, but I'll get creative with a dremel before I spend $30 on a new motor mount. lol!
 

D3MON

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well took some doing and only barely scarred up the inside of the race, first one came out in 4-6 pieces, the other that i dremeled, i cut 2 slots 180 deg from each other, then was able to pry the halves out, still took about as much force as the first side that came out in pieces and shards though.... will compliment the driveshaft dogbone side for its ability to pry on these, perfect length for the most part for the one side, other side its a bit long but was able to make it work. was very difficult to get the A-Arms back on as the skid plate definitely impacted something, need to get a new one but for now it will be find. hate flathead screws... get so gunked up and strip way too easy, but gotta do what you gotta do.
so next on the list of items to complete-
- either servo extender to make unplugging/plugging batter easier or on/off switch
-order/install front center driveshaft so i can have 4wd on it again (probably after i get it running.)
-remove and clean front A-Arms to clean front bulkhead area
-run a few break in tanks and tune.

Thanks again guys for the input
 

cbaker65

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Here is some pics of mine ,they will be cleaned up an put on the shelf queen ,I am putting the
original ones back on because I don't want them destroying my new F.E. bearings!

 

D3MON

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Here is some pics of mine ,they will be cleaned up an put on the shelf queen ,I am putting the
original ones back on because I don't want them destroying my new F.E. bearings!

well those look familiar :p.
Olds, they do but the pillow balls and studs are different, so you have to get new ones. if i couldnt get these aluminum ones to work again thats what i was going to do.
 

Tzicul

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Why don't you heat up the the hubs? The bearings will fall out in an instant, it's standard method for removing the bearings from an engine. It might damage the paint, tough
 

D3MON

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Tried using heat, wasn't seeming to work, was also using just a cheap torch but it was all I had.
 

D3MON

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was able to run it for a few minutes yesterday, forgot how well these things rip it up. still need to fine tune it, little bog under initial acceleration, think i have the LSN a bit rich (got everything back to factory tune before i tried restarting it up). but once it burnt what was in there and cleared up it really takes off. sadly before i could tune it the rest of the way while making passes the screw off the servo horn backed out disconnecting the linkage from the horn and by that point it was out of range for me to whip it around and impacted. nothing was broken besides part of the bumper i made for it. buying a Spektrum Dx2E 2.4ghz tx and rx today, hopefully will prevent things like this happening again.
 

cbaker65

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Tried using heat, wasn't seeming to work, was also using just a cheap torch but it was all I had.
was able to run it for a few minutes yesterday, forgot how well these things rip it up. still need to fine tune it, little bog under initial acceleration, think i have the LSN a bit rich (got everything back to factory tune before i tried restarting it up). but once it burnt what was in there and cleared up it really takes off. sadly before i could tune it the rest of the way while making passes the screw off the servo horn backed out disconnecting the linkage from the horn and by that point it was out of range for me to whip it around and impacted. nothing was broken besides part of the bumper i made for it. buying a Spektrum Dx2E 2.4ghz tx and rx today, hopefully will prevent things like this happening again.
LOL....awesome ,beat that truck!...:thumbs-up:

I remember when I first bought my Mgt brand new ,I hit a tree full blast at a park ,it didn't even faze
the truck!

They are tough trucks ,however ,their weak spot ,is were the a-arms connect to the diff ,so you might want
to invest into a couple of diff. housings!....:cool:
 

D3MON

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yeah, luckily have not broken any yet, but in the 10 or so years owning this thing, I've only ran 3-5 tanks in the HPI K4.6 motor, and barely broken in the axial.28, so very little drive time. is there a company that makes metal dif housings for these? or would that be a not good idea? felt like a kid again running this thing... just realized i started a thread for this truck but never even put any pictures of it up yet... ouch that looks like that hurt a bit ^, I'm curious if it would be smarter for me to run replacement A-Arms vs finding Rpms? seems that if i ran stock they would break before the diffs? or was it an issue without rpms too?
i like that bumper/skid btw, where you find that at? or did you make it?
 

cbaker65

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yeah, luckily have not broken any yet, but in the 10 or so years owning this thing, I've only ran 3-5 tanks in the HPI K4.6 motor, and barely broken in the axial.28, so very little drive time. is there a company that makes metal dif housings for these? or would that be a not good idea? felt like a kid again running this thing... just realized i started a thread for this truck but never even put any pictures of it up yet... ouch that looks like that hurt a bit ^, I'm curious if it would be smarter for me to run replacement A-Arms vs finding Rpms? seems that if i ran stock they would break before the diffs? or was it an issue without rpms too?
i like that bumper/skid btw, where you find that at? or did you make it?
First of all ,The Ae Mgt. truck ,is older than sin ,an about the only thing after market that you may find easy ,would be
RPM a-arms!
There may have been aluminum diff. housings produced at one time ,but now they are obsolete ,there use to be hop-up
upgrades for pretty much every part on this truck ,from Robinson ,MIP ,Lunsford ,GPM ,Integy ,RPM , Hardcore ,an even AE. had
even produced their own upgrades!

Every now an then ,something will emerge from E-bay auction ,the trick to that ,is to beat me to that auction!....:stick:......:hehe:

The Mgt. is a very good product that was ever put out ,the manufacture brands should have never stopped producing
the hop-ups ,however ,Hardcore had stopped ,an started producing motorcycle performance parts!

The bad thing about upgrading to aluminum parts in the suspension area ,is the hinge pin ,when it gets bent ,it
is hard as hell to get out ,but pins are cheap ,an can be cut with Dremel tool!

The upper hinge is aluminum ,an tends to get bent ,an is hard to deal with as well ,so nothing is really bullet
proof ,its the nature of the beast!....:cool:
 

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