Getting back to running MGT 4.6

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

D3MON

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
1,691
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
well, on the road to getting my associated MGT 4.6 back to running, and in working order after some years of not running it. and re learning what was wrong when i had to leave it in storage (really wishing i had been able to fix everything beforehand instead of having to learn what was wrong again). first thing was disassembling the engine cleaning out any gunk in it. was a brand new axial .28 spec 2s, was barely broken in plus 1 tank. on first inspection it was locked up was not wanting to rotate, so tore it down, wasn't any rust on the internals but was nitro residue in the crank journal, got that cleaned out and spins freely, got the carb cleaned out as it had the same issue.
as it is a learning experience will be posting as i go in case questions may arise.
 

D3MON

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
1,691
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
running into an issue currently with bearings in the hub carriers, axle was very loose in the carrier so decided to tear down to figure out why.
- first issue
composite pillow ball screws, top on that corner is in there very tight and seized and is trying to strip.
next issue the bearings were no longer bearings, just an outer and inner race with bearing guide. having issues with removing the outer races though. first one came out in pieces, some prying and "tapping" involved, inner side is being an issue, not able to pry very well.
any tips?
 

D3MON

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
1,691
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
thinking going to resort to dremeling the outer bearing race out. really wishing i would have been cleaning this thing better. so much dirt and grime in the bulks... no time like the present to learn that kind of stuff though i guess.
 

wannarunem

Hardcore RCNT User
Supporter
Messages
1,608
Location
Houston
RC Driving Style
Bashing
(really wishing i had been able to fix everything beforehand instead of having to learn what was wrong again).
i know exactly what you mean. I did the same thing with my Savage and 10 years later trying to remember everything that was wrong was a pita! Next time it will be in perfect working order when I let it rest for a while.
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
3,687
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
thinking going to resort to dremeling the outer bearing race out. really wishing i would have been cleaning this thing better. so much dirt and grime in the bulks... no time like the present to learn that kind of stuff though i guess.
Are the hubs plastic or aluminum?

Plastic ones ,bearings are easy to get out ,aluminum ones are hard as hell to get out!

I took a real tiny drill bit ,an drilled a hole in the flange on the inside of the hub were I
can get a tiny screw driver to punch out the reese!
 

olds97_lss

RCNT VIP
Supporter
Messages
19,466
Location
Dekalb, IL
RC Driving Style
Bashing
Are the hubs plastic or aluminum?

Plastic ones ,bearings are easy to get out ,aluminum ones are hard as hell to get out!

I took a real tiny drill bit ,an drilled a hole in the flange on the inside of the hub were I
can get a tiny screw driver to punch out the reese!
I'll have to keep that in mind. Will probably become useful when it's time to replace the bearing in my outcast hot racing motor mount. Although, what do you use that's small enough, but yet strong enough to break the race? I'm assuming your drilling a hole in the outside of the hub so you can fold the race in on itself. Bearing races are usually made of very hard stuff, so they don't really bend, but they do shatter. Just takes a lot of hammer to do it.
 

D3MON

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
1,691
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
They are aluminum, I was thinking to get I dremel and grind through on opposite sides or to at least make a lip to hammer it through.
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
3,687
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
They are aluminum, I was thinking to get I dremel and grind through on opposite sides or to at least make a lip to hammer it through.
Usually ,at least one of the bearings come out ,if one does ,then it exposes the reese on the inside ,the exposed
flange is where I drill the hole at ,towards the reese ,,then you can take a small nail an try to punch it out!

This has happen to me several times with my aluminum hubs ,I had mentioned it several times on my F.E.
bearing thread on my MGT.
I want to go back to the original plastic hubs because the bearings don't last in the aluminum ones ,they
are hard on bearings an eat them up!

After you get the bearing reeses out ,try to cut a slot in the flange so you can use a small flat head screw driver
to punch the reese out!...:cool:
 

olds97_lss

RCNT VIP
Supporter
Messages
19,466
Location
Dekalb, IL
RC Driving Style
Bashing
If I had been thinking, I'd have cut a slot in the back of the motor mount so I could get to the bearing race before installing it on my outcast. I guess since I'd be there and taking it out to remove it, I'm not as concerned with it staying intact anyway, but I'll get creative with a dremel before I spend $30 on a new motor mount. lol!
 

D3MON

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
1,691
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
well took some doing and only barely scarred up the inside of the race, first one came out in 4-6 pieces, the other that i dremeled, i cut 2 slots 180 deg from each other, then was able to pry the halves out, still took about as much force as the first side that came out in pieces and shards though.... will compliment the driveshaft dogbone side for its ability to pry on these, perfect length for the most part for the one side, other side its a bit long but was able to make it work. was very difficult to get the A-Arms back on as the skid plate definitely impacted something, need to get a new one but for now it will be find. hate flathead screws... get so gunked up and strip way too easy, but gotta do what you gotta do.
so next on the list of items to complete-
- either servo extender to make unplugging/plugging batter easier or on/off switch
-order/install front center driveshaft so i can have 4wd on it again (probably after i get it running.)
-remove and clean front A-Arms to clean front bulkhead area
-run a few break in tanks and tune.

Thanks again guys for the input
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
3,687
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
Here is some pics of mine ,they will be cleaned up an put on the shelf queen ,I am putting the
original ones back on because I don't want them destroying my new F.E. bearings!

 

D3MON

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
1,691
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
Here is some pics of mine ,they will be cleaned up an put on the shelf queen ,I am putting the
original ones back on because I don't want them destroying my new F.E. bearings!

well those look familiar :p.
Olds, they do but the pillow balls and studs are different, so you have to get new ones. if i couldnt get these aluminum ones to work again thats what i was going to do.
 

Tzicul

RCNT Rookie
Messages
23
RC Driving Style
Why don't you heat up the the hubs? The bearings will fall out in an instant, it's standard method for removing the bearings from an engine. It might damage the paint, tough
 

D3MON

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
1,691
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
Tried using heat, wasn't seeming to work, was also using just a cheap torch but it was all I had.
 

D3MON

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
1,691
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
was able to run it for a few minutes yesterday, forgot how well these things rip it up. still need to fine tune it, little bog under initial acceleration, think i have the LSN a bit rich (got everything back to factory tune before i tried restarting it up). but once it burnt what was in there and cleared up it really takes off. sadly before i could tune it the rest of the way while making passes the screw off the servo horn backed out disconnecting the linkage from the horn and by that point it was out of range for me to whip it around and impacted. nothing was broken besides part of the bumper i made for it. buying a Spektrum Dx2E 2.4ghz tx and rx today, hopefully will prevent things like this happening again.
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
3,687
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
Tried using heat, wasn't seeming to work, was also using just a cheap torch but it was all I had.
was able to run it for a few minutes yesterday, forgot how well these things rip it up. still need to fine tune it, little bog under initial acceleration, think i have the LSN a bit rich (got everything back to factory tune before i tried restarting it up). but once it burnt what was in there and cleared up it really takes off. sadly before i could tune it the rest of the way while making passes the screw off the servo horn backed out disconnecting the linkage from the horn and by that point it was out of range for me to whip it around and impacted. nothing was broken besides part of the bumper i made for it. buying a Spektrum Dx2E 2.4ghz tx and rx today, hopefully will prevent things like this happening again.
LOL....awesome ,beat that truck!...:thumbs-up:

I remember when I first bought my Mgt brand new ,I hit a tree full blast at a park ,it didn't even faze
the truck!

They are tough trucks ,however ,their weak spot ,is were the a-arms connect to the diff ,so you might want
to invest into a couple of diff. housings!....:cool:
 

D3MON

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
1,691
Location
Missoula MT
RC Driving Style
Bashing
yeah, luckily have not broken any yet, but in the 10 or so years owning this thing, I've only ran 3-5 tanks in the HPI K4.6 motor, and barely broken in the axial.28, so very little drive time. is there a company that makes metal dif housings for these? or would that be a not good idea? felt like a kid again running this thing... just realized i started a thread for this truck but never even put any pictures of it up yet... ouch that looks like that hurt a bit ^, I'm curious if it would be smarter for me to run replacement A-Arms vs finding Rpms? seems that if i ran stock they would break before the diffs? or was it an issue without rpms too?
i like that bumper/skid btw, where you find that at? or did you make it?
 

cbaker65

Hardcore RCNT User
Messages
3,687
Location
Kern county ,Calif.
yeah, luckily have not broken any yet, but in the 10 or so years owning this thing, I've only ran 3-5 tanks in the HPI K4.6 motor, and barely broken in the axial.28, so very little drive time. is there a company that makes metal dif housings for these? or would that be a not good idea? felt like a kid again running this thing... just realized i started a thread for this truck but never even put any pictures of it up yet... ouch that looks like that hurt a bit ^, I'm curious if it would be smarter for me to run replacement A-Arms vs finding Rpms? seems that if i ran stock they would break before the diffs? or was it an issue without rpms too?
i like that bumper/skid btw, where you find that at? or did you make it?
First of all ,The Ae Mgt. truck ,is older than sin ,an about the only thing after market that you may find easy ,would be
RPM a-arms!
There may have been aluminum diff. housings produced at one time ,but now they are obsolete ,there use to be hop-up
upgrades for pretty much every part on this truck ,from Robinson ,MIP ,Lunsford ,GPM ,Integy ,RPM , Hardcore ,an even AE. had
even produced their own upgrades!

Every now an then ,something will emerge from E-bay auction ,the trick to that ,is to beat me to that auction!....:stick:......:hehe:

The Mgt. is a very good product that was ever put out ,the manufacture brands should have never stopped producing
the hop-ups ,however ,Hardcore had stopped ,an started producing motorcycle performance parts!

The bad thing about upgrading to aluminum parts in the suspension area ,is the hinge pin ,when it gets bent ,it
is hard as hell to get out ,but pins are cheap ,an can be cut with Dremel tool!

The upper hinge is aluminum ,an tends to get bent ,an is hard to deal with as well ,so nothing is really bullet
proof ,its the nature of the beast!....:cool:
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account on our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Thread starter Similar threads Forum Replies Date
D3MON Getting back to running Losi LST(2)? Nitro RC 77
S Nitro car running weird when getting hot Nitro RC 49
J Thinking about getting my savage running again HPI Savage 10
J Received an Nitro HPI RS4 Viper(Help getting into running conditon) Nitro RC 9
D Having trouble getting my T Maxx up and running any suggestions? Traxxas T-Maxx 31
C little assistance on getting an old truck running Chassis & Drivetrain 14
S Getting it up and running again soon Traxxas Revo 7
Mdlopez1 Getting back in RC racing Buggy and Truggy 2
The RC Car Getting ready for coronavirus quarantine. . . Electric RC 35
J Getting Started with an Associated RC8 Electric RC 7
J Thinking of getting into drones, maybe FPV. Looking for advice. RC Aircraft 2
T Getting Back into the game - Losi Aftershock Truck Nitro RC 9
S Getting my first 1/5 Large Scale RC 5
Patsfan40 Looking at getting into 1/8 truggy. Buggy and Truggy 36
Clintd Getting back into the RC game General Chaos 7
A_locomotive Bought an Associated RC10 B44.3(?) Roller, hoping to get back into racing, need help getting pointed in the right direction. Buggy and Truggy 5
Daniel J Getting new engine any tips for setting it up? Engines 7
N New to hobby, getting a team losi rc 8eight mini Electronics 13
NCNitro Looks like HPI is getting in the scale game Scale RC 11
K Flywheel Getting Stuck Nitro RC 3
Cupofjoe5 Getting a 1/10 infinitive exceed nitro gas truck Wheels & Tires 12
WoodiE Tools for getting started in RC Tools 6
Speedy Wolf Thinking about getting an on-road touring car (or rally) On-road and Rally Cars 13
MedTRevo TxRx and Getting Started Again Questions - Revo 3.3 Electronics 7
bigjohn 3 years out and getting the bug again but this time want to try electric but which one ? Electric RC 3
A The itch is getting worse... Electric RC 1
N (Resolved) Troubles getting buggy to drive Buggy and Truggy 26
K Getting back into the sport Traxxas T-Maxx 8
C Hpi Savage 25 "Not getting fuel" Chassis & Drivetrain 1
pjoseph Piston keeps getting stuck help please Chassis & Drivetrain 4
dubbiesRcs Getting new tires? Read this... Nitro RC 13
Lethal My revo 3.3 is not getting full power.. Traxxas Revo 8
T New 4.6, but getting discouraged... HPI Savage 12
H Getting back into the hobby Chassis & Drivetrain 17
goodgamer Thinking About Getting Into Scaling Scale RC 7
H Jato 2.5 getting very hot! Nitro RC 5
HPIguy Getting Back Into Crawling RC Rock Crawlers 4
T Getting a savage track ready? HPI Savage 4
RC/Racer THINKING of getting a R/C Plane RC Aircraft 14
D Losi not getting fuel to the carburator Team Losi LST 8
SchrodeMode Thinking about getting a larger heli. RC Aircraft 3
S Newbie Getting Started Traxxas Revo 7
andydrew39219 Thinking about getting a 4wd roller Nitro RC 7
WoodiE Getting started in RC Rock Crawling RC Rock Crawlers 3
C Looking at getting a SC Truck Electric RC 14
K no shift getting annoyed Nitro RC 0
Phins Fan Is it me or is Traxxas getting crammed down my throat? General Chaos 13
V Looking at getting a new rc Nitro RC 3
andydrew39219 Having trouble getting Nitro stampede to run consistent Chassis & Drivetrain 0
3_Stroke_Motor getting rid of email notifications? General Chaos 3
Similar threads


















































Top