Getting Back into the game - Losi Aftershock Truck

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Tredigity

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I got my Nitro Loci Aftershock truck as a Christmas present about 8 to 10 years ago. Anyway, something went wrong with the controller and the truck has sat in storage ever since. Now, I'm ready to get back into the game, but I realized that I've forgotten so much. I just bought a new Radio and receiver (RadioLink RC4GS). I don't have the owner's manual to the truck any more, so I need some help. I still have the original motor that came with it, but I don't know the specs. Here are some of my specific questions.

!. What type of fuel should I be running in it? I don't plan to compete, just have fun with it. (I forgot all the fuel percentage stuff). Also, if I find my old bottle of fuel, will it work?

2. I remember using my power drill to start it. Do I need to order something to put in the crank or will a cut Allen Key work?

3. Any other tips would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
In no way can I help, but welcome to the forum anyway:):thumbs-up:
 
Thank you guys for the "Welcome". I appreciate it.
 
Try this thread for your manual https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/rcdocuments-find-your-missing-rc-manual.126518/
I would not use that old nitro fuel. Could hydro lock the motor, and even if it does start, your tuning will be off when you use good fuel.
I am unfamiliar with your starting system, but I would say a good power drill with a properly crafted key should work. Just don't use a hammer or impact type drill.
 
welcome to RCtalk!
You can find the manual on losi's website or from the RCdocuments site posted above, i am curious as what happened with your controller?
i have a JR Racing XS3 (same one that came with the LST that i have and still working great). you should be able to find the stock engine in the manual and the factory specs for the tuning needles.
i would not recommend using your old fuel, though that said, disassemble the engine and dip in the old fuel (old nitro fuel cleans rc parts really well). will clear up all the build up from sitting.
also replace fuel lines.
roto start is a 6mm hex, i recommend getting a ball end type to use.
i know that the aftershock had a bit differnt 2-speed spur assembly than the lst1/2, and i know olds was having some issues with his. if you run into the same problem may look at converting it to lst2 spur gear and hub assembly.
one of the first things i would do is get a really high quality 1/16 hex driver (MIP/dynamite, etc), the screws strip so easily. and i know many were having issues with engine braces, it was cast so it would break semi-easily, you can get a machined one on ebay (rcdamper) for around 12$ shipped.
 
welcome to RCtalk!
You can find the manual on losi's website or from the RCdocuments site posted above, i am curious as what happened with your controller?
i have a JR Racing XS3 (same one that came with the LST that i have and still working great). you should be able to find the stock engine in the manual and the factory specs for the tuning needles.
i would not recommend using your old fuel, though that said, disassemble the engine and dip in the old fuel (old nitro fuel cleans rc parts really well). will clear up all the build up from sitting.
also replace fuel lines.
roto start is a 6mm hex, i recommend getting a ball end type to use.
i know that the aftershock had a bit differnt 2-speed spur assembly than the lst1/2, and i know olds was having some issues with his. if you run into the same problem may look at converting it to lst2 spur gear and hub assembly.
one of the first things i would do is get a really high quality 1/16 hex driver (MIP/dynamite, etc), the screws strip so easily. and i know many were having issues with engine braces, it was cast so it would break semi-easily, you can get a machined one on ebay (rcdamper) for around 12$ shipped.


+100 % ,couldn't said it any better!

Its also good to count how many turns that the carb needles have before you break it down for cleaning ,it would be
a better reference from factory sets!
Chances are ,you might have to take the carb needle out to lubricate them & check the seals on them!

Also ,clean the tank with hot soapy water ,an make sure the tank lid seals good ,an the tank will hold the pressure!
 
The aftershock came with the Losi M26SS engine, which was pullstart only I thought... at least that's what mine was as it was one of the very few trucks I ever bought new. It ran fine on 20% byrons gen2 fuel and even better when I replaced the pipe with the LST2 (losi HT) pipe. I also replaced the 2 speed on mine with the LST* two speed as the plastic OWB cage and 2 speed collar for the 2nd gear was likely to fail early on. It got all munged up when I put an LRP28 in. Made it to about the 7th tank of break in and it jammed up the 2-speed. Was fine with the stock engine for a couple gallons though.

Does your engine have the black head on it?

2007-0331-ASChassis.jpg


That had an HPI ripple savage pipe on it. Was painful to listen too, but was all I had on hand at the time. I also only had a hump pack on hand, ended up getting a flat pack to install under the chassis in the proper spot.
 
welcome to RCtalk!
You can find the manual on losi's website or from the RCdocuments site posted above, i am curious as what happened with your controller?
i have a JR Racing XS3 (same one that came with the LST that i have and still working great). you should be able to find the stock engine in the manual and the factory specs for the tuning needles.
i would not recommend using your old fuel, though that said, disassemble the engine and dip in the old fuel (old nitro fuel cleans rc parts really well). will clear up all the build up from sitting.
also replace fuel lines.
roto start is a 6mm hex, i recommend getting a ball end type to use.
i know that the aftershock had a bit differnt 2-speed spur assembly than the lst1/2, and i know olds was having some issues with his. if you run into the same problem may look at converting it to lst2 spur gear and hub assembly.
one of the first things i would do is get a really high quality 1/16 hex driver (MIP/dynamite, etc), the screws strip so easily. and i know many were having issues with engine braces, it was cast so it would break semi-easily, you can get a machined one on ebay (rcdamper) for around 12$ shipped.
Thank you guys for the great tips and advice. Time to do some on-line shopping. LOL
 

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