Lewis.rs16
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Hey Guys, i'm now experiencing my front tyres of my Tamiya tb-01 chassis binding/locking up sometimes. I have no idea why this might be happening, any help would be appreciated. 
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We've had a look into the front driveshaft and all that and greased it all and it still happens. This is stock steering so maybe can't handle the power of the new 12t motor i've put in. Is there a way that by upgrading the steering that maybe it could then handle this power.Check your bearings, also check that your wheel nuts aren't to tight. Make sure your rims clear your hubs and don't rub.
Already checked all this and there are no problems that i can see, however someone else has said that it might have something to do with the 12t motor draining all the power from the steering servo, is there a way to fix this?Steering shouldn't have anything to do with the wheels "locking up". It's going to be something in the drive train. Look at the differential make sure the ring gear and pinion are good and not missing teeth or too tight. Check the internal gears and pins of the diff to make sure nothings broken. Make sure your outdrive cups are not rubbing on the a arms etc. It has to be something in the drivetrain if the wheels are all clear of the hubs and bearings are good and hex's aren't cranked down to tight not allowing the wheels to turn.
Sorry i shouldn't of said lock up because they don't, to describe it basically it almost looks as if the steering goes to far each way then makes grinding noises.Ok so when you say your front wheels "lock up" I think they stop spinning and lock up like having a break applied in a real car. So is it when they "lock up" they stay pinned in one spot and won't move side to side and allow you to directionally turn?
Ok i'll order an external receiver battery tonight, but what battery would you guys recommend?Again The motor doesn't power the servo. It's the motor drawing the power from the servo. To check to see if the problem is the motor drawing all the power use a external receiver battery. This comes back to the BEC on the esc.
Something like this? https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index....NNZye0XzFUJUBiIXK10lAmZzBDU0og10aAkeLEALw_wcBA 4 cell AA battery holder and switch would be fine
Yes and a on/off switch . I prefer a switch with a charging jack as later you may want a rechargeable 5 cell battery.
No to the uber of 10 amps and don't remove center wire on rc plug.no to battery holder.Id put in a ubec of 10 amps .. Then remove esc center wire on rx plug
then put shims in to hold the bearing inI've ordered a 4 cell battery holder anyway, but I've had a look at the bearings at the front and on the left side the outside of the bearing is moving as well which shouldn't be happening. I have a feeling this might of been the cause from the beginning as the last motor isn't as fast, the new one is highlighting this problem as its faster.