For the diff, clean out the grey crap and fill with new oil.
As for the batt pack, I have the same thing with my receiver packs. I made them out of NiMH 2100Mah AA's. I don't have a peak charger, I just check the temps as it's charging on my cobled up charger that I bought from radio shack. The charger was built to handle 4.8v - 7.2v packs from 1100Mah to 2100Mah. There is a switch to go between NiMH, NiCD and there is a switch to go from normal capacity batts to high capacity batts. There's a little chart on it so I know what it thinks normal and HiCap are.
Anyway, as the packs are charging, the temp rises from sitting temp to about 5 degrees higher or so and I unplug it. When I check the volts with my DVM when it's disconnected from the charger, it reads anywhere from 6.9v-7.2v. If I let the pack sit for an hour or so without using it, it will drop to about 6.7 and stay there or around there for a day or so then start dropping a little every day. Now, instead of checking the temps, I just charge to 7v even and unplug it.
I've been using the same packs for about 2 years. I also use the same cells in my receiver. 1.2v X 8 is 9.6v, but I leave it plugged into the xmitter charger until it hits 11v and after sitting an hour or so, it will drop to about 10.7.
I get many hours of runtime out of the receiver (with 2 high torque non-digital servo's) and many hours out of the xmitter before either get low enough to worry me.
The trucks I use the packs on both are running the airtronics recievers that came with the mx-3 xmitters. But I have one xmitter that I use and I just swap the crystal and model number when I change trucks.
If the volt levels I charge too are bad, I haven't really had any problems with it to know if it is or isn't. Everything works fine all the time, but driving in my area is really glitchy regardless of the radio/receiver/battery pack/truck. I think there's a buttload of interference around here, but it's nothing bad enough to keep me from driving. Just a little twitchy from time to time.