Engine Help for a Noob

[TDB]

Hi,

New to the forum so excuse me if anything i post sounds a bit on the novice/silly side

I have just ordered a RC buggy for my sons birthday which comes with the 15 CXP engine???

I have contacted the seller in question to try & find out what type of Nitro fuel i would require as i want to get it all together for his birthday on Wednesday so you can go ahead and use it.

I have read the higher the % of Nitro the faster (which sounds pretty obvious) but i also read that some engines cannot handle too high amounts of Nitro in the mix? as i was going to buy some 25% O'Donnell's online as the price is good.

Ok so here are some (i hope) straight forward questions;

Is there a manual available online for the 15 CXP engine?

Is the above engine any good or have i made an error in buying it? (he is only 10 & had electric before hand)

Would i easily be able to upgrade the engine if needed down the line?

Any other advice would be brilliant :yes:

Sorry to register & then bombard with questions I'm just panicking with his birthday coming in a few days :constipat

TIA

Owen

 

[HeartBreak]

I would say look for some 20%. Otherwise, you're on the right track with the brand. O'Donnells is a good quality brand. Once the engine is broken in, try to stay with the same percentage/brand, if possible.

Which buggy did you order? (web link will suffice)

Also, did you get the needed tools and supplies for supporting the buggy?

If not, the list is fairly short. You've already got the fuel. The rest of the list is;

8MM socket/glow plug wrench
Flat head screwdriver (for adjusting the carb)
12 AA batteries (8 for the radio, 4 for on the car)
Glow starter (and batteries for it, if not rechargeable)
Tube of CA glue
Tube of BLUE threadlock
Fuelling bottle (makes filling the tank a lot easier)
After run oil
Temp gun/meter

Lastly, some tools to work on it. Philips screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, standard pliers, nut drivers, and some decent allen wrenches (Dynamite makes a really good set).

Since he's had electric, he should have most of the tools needed.

Since it's most likely a Ready-To-Run car, the most important thing he can do before running it is, to go over it 100% and check over every screw, nut, bolt and hinge pin. Threadlock the engine mount screws, and check the gear mesh. It should have just a hint of play during all revolutions. Make sure the tires are glued to the rims, too.

Also, read the manual, paying particular attention to the engine care and tuning section.

As for the pull rope, when starting, SHORT pulls, roughly two or three "pops" at the most. Don't pull it like a lawn mower, or it'll break.

Make sure to follow the break-in instructions as closely as possible, and the engine should last a while. After the car has been ran the last time for the day, clean out all of the fuel by applying the glow starter and pull the rope until the engine won't start anymore. Then allow to cool with the piston at the bottom of the cycle (to avoid seizure), and then apply after run oil. A few drops down the air intake or in the glow plug hole, cycle over, re-install air filter (or glow plug, depending on which one you removed), then store. If storing for more than a week, remove the AA batteries.

If you have any issues with the car, please feel free to hop back on and post. We're here to help out.

 

[TDB]

I would say look for some 20%. Otherwise, you're on the right track with the brand. O'Donnells is a good quality brand. Once the engine is broken in, try to stay with the same percentage/brand, if possible.

Thanks for that - i was a little confused with what exactly i should be buying & went off what i read on STO and saw that it was either Maxys or O'Donnells that they were selling so plumped for O'Donnells due to it being in stock.

Which buggy did you order? (web link will suffice)

I bought it (rightly or wrongly) on Ebay due to price etc & taking into account his age - the last thing i want is to fork out X amount & he sticks it into the garage after a month or two (which I'm sure will not happen but kids are kids) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280162086000&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:UK:11

Also, did you get the needed tools and supplies for supporting the buggy?

The truck comes with a starter kit;

Glow plug igniter
Fuel pump
Small crose wrench
Crose wrench
A/C charger
Mini screw driver
Fuel Bottle​

So out of the above i would assume the after run oil would be the most important to buy in before use? (and AA's)

If not, the list is fairly short. You've already got the fuel. The rest of the list is;

8MM socket/glow plug wrench
Flat head screwdriver (for adjusting the carb)
12 AA batteries (8 for the radio, 4 for on the car)
Glow starter (and batteries for it, if not rechargeable)
Tube of CA glue
Tube of BLUE threadlock
Fuelling bottle (makes filling the tank a lot easier)
After run oil
Temp gun/meter

Many thanks for that info much appreciated :bow:

Lastly, some tools to work on it. Philips screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, standard pliers, nut drivers, and some decent allen wrenches (Dynamite makes a really good set).

Since he's had electric, he should have most of the tools needed.

Since it's most likely a Ready-To-Run car, the most important thing he can do before running it is, to go over it 100% and check over every screw, nut, bolt and hinge pin. Threadlock the engine mount screws, and check the gear mesh. It should have just a hint of play during all revolutions. Make sure the tires are glued to the rims, too.

Also, read the manual, paying particular attention to the engine care and tuning section.

As for the pull rope, when starting, SHORT pulls, roughly two or three "pops" at the most. Don't pull it like a lawn mower, or it'll break.

Make sure to follow the break-in instructions as closely as possible, and the engine should last a while. After the car has been ran the last time for the day, clean out all of the fuel by applying the glow starter and pull the rope until the engine won't start anymore. Then allow to cool with the piston at the bottom of the cycle (to avoid seizure), and then apply after run oil. A few drops down the air intake or in the glow plug hole, cycle over, re-install air filter (or glow plug, depending on which one you removed), then store. If storing for more than a week, remove the AA batteries.

If you have any issues with the car, please feel free to hop back on and post. We're here to help out.

Tools i am covered for.

Thanks again for the help on running the car in & the 'what not to do's'.

I'm a little concerned that i have not heard back from the seller in terms of manual etc but all the above will certainly help me.

Thanks again

Owen

 

[HeartBreak]

If it's the brand that I am thinking of (Smartech), an online manual might not be available. However, you can check http://www.rcdocuments.com - the manual might be listed on there.

I would look into a fairly cheap infrared based temp gun. You can get a Duratrax branded one for about $20. It will help make sure the engine is at the right temperature, to ensure long life.

The only thing I would be concerned with, is the auction listing shows three different models. A Cen Genesis, a Traxxas T-Maxx, and a GS Racing Storm SUT. All three are WAY different than what's listed.

I don't blame you for wanting to take the cheap route for your sons' first gas-powered r/c. However, the only concern here is quality and availability of the parts. That, and the shipping/transit times.

Otherwise, it looks like you have 90% of the list covered. Just some threadlocking compound, and you should be alright.

 

[neobart]

And don't forget some airfilter oil.

 

[HeartBreak]

Aye, I forgot the snot, lol. I'd recommend looking in the phone directory for the nearest dirtbike seller, as the air filter oil they sell there is practically the same stuff. It differs from traditional oil, in that it is sticky (that's why I call it "snot"). The only difference is you get much more for about the same price.

To apply it, place the foam (cleaned with water and dish detergent) in a plastic baggy, apply some oil, and massage it until the filter is mildly saturated.

Don't over saturate it. The baggy is so you won't get the oil all over the place. Trust me when I say it is pretty difficult in cleaning up when you spill it. As an additional precaution, do all cleaning and air filter oiling outside, so you don't ruin anything worth any value.

 

[TDB]

Aye, I forgot the snot, lol. I'd recommend looking in the phone directory for the nearest dirtbike seller, as the air filter oil they sell there is practically the same stuff. It differs from traditional oil, in that it is sticky (that's why I call it "snot"). The only difference is you get much more for about the same price.

To apply it, place the foam (cleaned with water and dish detergent) in a plastic baggy, apply some oil, and massage it until the filter is mildly saturated.

Don't over saturate it. The baggy is so you won't get the oil all over the place. Trust me when I say it is pretty difficult in cleaning up when you spill it. As an additional precaution, do all cleaning and air filter oiling outside, so you don't ruin anything worth any value.

Thanks for the info HeartBreak & Neobart

I actually ordered a twin pack of After run & Air filter oil from STO yesterday when i was ordering the After run i noticed the twin pack & had a quick read & got both.

Got the truck through today, the actual model is a 'VH-L1 Sprint' & from a quick google it would look to be manufactured by a company called Henglong...? I'm thinking this will be ok as an entry level for him to see whether he keeps the interest before spending too much £££

The actual body/shell is crap - can i get a replacement easy enough? if so where would be the best UK online place to look? STO have some but I'm unsure if all or any would fit? it's 1/10 scale.

The manual says the engine can take up 30% so the O'Donnell's will do just great :yes:

Thanks again for the help & advice :bow:

Cheers

Owen

 

[HeartBreak]

Getting a new body shell might be a bit difficult, as you have to take into account the shape/curvature of the chassis.

However, since it's a truck-style body, it'll be a little easier for you to get a body. One that fits a Traxxas Stampede should be a perfect fit.

At first glance, it doesn't look like all that bad of a model, to test the waters with.

One other important detail I forgot to mention.... When it comes to breaking in the engine, and after-breaking in, these motors aren't built for 100% throttle 100% of the time. No more than 2 or 3 seconds at full throttle after break-in is complete.

Also, don't start it indoors, no matter what. The engines on these little guys are LOUD. If you have a chain saw, they're roughly that loud. Not to mention, the exhaust fumes are somewhat toxic if you breathe in a lot of them. And, the exhaust spittle itself (it will "spit" a little unburned oil out of the exhaust... It's mostly castor oil, but there are some synthetics in it.. it's like a syrup) will stain carpet/wood.

Which reminds me. Before it's brought indoors, take a little bit of paper towel and place a "cork" into the exhaust outlet. Either that, or an automotive vacuum cap from your local auto parts supply store.

Now, as for a question I missed earlier (sorry); since it's a standard .15 sized engine, you should be able to replace the engine fairly easily. However, I don't think you'll have to worry about that for at least a year (depending on how much he runs it). Engines typically last for anywhere from 3 gallons+, depending on how they're cared for, and how well they are broken in. I've heard of some engines lasting 20+ gallons before needing to be rebuilt.

Keep in mind tho, an engine can easily run from $80 all the way up to $300+, depending on brand, and if they are hand-modified.

 

[TDB]

Thanks for all the info with regard to breaking in & proper use of the engine HeartBreak - it's these things that would have otherwise been overlooked :yes:

Getting a new body shell might be a bit difficult, as you have to take into account the shape/curvature of the chassis.

However, since it's a truck-style body, it'll be a little easier for you to get a body. One that fits a Traxxas Stampede should be a perfect fit.

Where would be the best place to look for a new body (Traxxas Stampede)? sorry if advertising is against board rules.

I had a look in the Body section on here & that lead me through to the Proline site & i wondered whether any of the other 1:10 truck body's may fit (maybe poss with a bit of modding??) - that might be a stupid question

Now, as for a question I missed earlier (sorry); since it's a standard .15 sized engine, you should be able to replace the engine fairly easily. However, I don't think you'll have to worry about that for at least a year (depending on how much he runs it). Engines typically last for anywhere from 3 gallons+, depending on how they're cared for, and how well they are broken in. I've heard of some engines lasting 20+ gallons before needing to be rebuilt.

Keep in mind tho, an engine can easily run from $80 all the way up to $300+, depending on brand, and if they are hand-modified.

Are there any restrictions on the type if i were to upgrade the engine at anytime? as in power etc or not?

The chances are if i got to the stage of replacing the engine i would be more inclined to buy in another unit of better quality as apposed to modding the existing.

Thanks

Owen

 

[HeartBreak]

Well, there are a lot of places you can actually get the Stampede body. eBay is one place, or you can actually go to a local hobby shop. I'd recommend the local hobby shop, because you can dry-fit it before buying it.

Other models that might fit are trucks like the T-Maxx (by Traxxas), and possibly a few others.

There really aren't all that many restrictions on replacing your engine. The only five I can think of are:

Exhaust port; yours is a side exhaust (as opposed to a round rear exhaust)

Crankshaft length (I'm going to guess it's a full length crankshaft, which can be cut)

Starting method (there are only two; pull start and non pull start)

Carburetor type (rotary or slide; yours is rotary)

Displacement (you can safely go to a .18 sized engine, as its' part of the small block class)

Now, power-wise, almost anything you install in the truck is going to be a little more to a lot more powerful than the engine that comes with it. It's still going to have a bit of speed to it, but remember, there are engines that are vastly more powerful.

The actual engine I would look into buying (when the time comes) is an OS .15 CV-RX. If memory serves, it runs around $100 USD.

The only thing I would be a little watchful on is the drive train. If your son applies throttle smoothly instead of on-off-on-off, you shouldn't have to worry.

 

[TDB]

Well, there are a lot of places you can actually get the Stampede body. eBay is one place, or you can actually go to a local hobby shop. I'd recommend the local hobby shop, because you can dry-fit it before buying it.

Other models that might fit are trucks like the T-Maxx (by Traxxas), and possibly a few others.

There really aren't all that many restrictions on replacing your engine. The only five I can think of are:

Exhaust port; yours is a side exhaust (as opposed to a round rear exhaust)

Crankshaft length (I'm going to guess it's a full length crankshaft, which can be cut)

Starting method (there are only two; pull start and non pull start)

Carburetor type (rotary or slide; yours is rotary)

Displacement (you can safely go to a .18 sized engine, as its' part of the small block class)

Now, power-wise, almost anything you install in the truck is going to be a little more to a lot more powerful than the engine that comes with it. It's still going to have a bit of speed to it, but remember, there are engines that are vastly more powerful.

The actual engine I would look into buying (when the time comes) is an OS .15 CV-RX. If memory serves, it runs around $100 USD.

The only thing I would be a little watchful on is the drive train. If your son applies throttle smoothly instead of on-off-on-off, you shouldn't have to worry.

Great i thought i might be able to use some of the other body's available - even if its no good they can obviously just go on Ebay etc & the cost of them is small in comparison to the truck itself.

Thank you for the tips on the engine replacement :yes:

He is absolutely made up with his new car & i have promised him the after run + air filter oil will be delivered today (hoping to god that the mail service doesn't let me down!!) & I'm leaving work early to get him from school to take the truck out for a run

I'm sure i will be back with more questions but for the meantime thank you for all the help you have given HeartBreak :bow:

Thanks

Owen

 

[HeartBreak]

Not a problem, TDB. I'm glad to help out whenever I can. He's going to have a lot of fun once it's broken in.

In case the after run oil does not arrive, you will be alright if it sits overnight without putting it in. It takes 5 days or so for the fuel to start drying into a gummy substance. Just make sure to run the tank dry (try to have the engine at or near idle when the tank runs dry), and clear the engine out by restarting it until it won't start.

Also, to be safe, store it in a dry location, so it won't rust out the internals.

 

[jamieB]

Hi there,
I have also made the costly 'mistake' of buying this excact same car VH-L1 from the same person on ebay. First of all the tunning was all out so buy the time i got the tunning close to a desent idle speed the clutch had already gone, then the two speed gearbox jammed (though i reapaired it simply by taking it apart and assembling correctly, and the biggest problem of all is that you can't get parts from any where in the world apart from two place's .1 the assembling factory in japan wich at this time i can't find the name but they won't sell parts iv'e tryed .2. is a online US shop called RcCarMax.com wichdon't ship to the UK but i have contacted them and they will ship for an extra $30 wich would be OK but i have tryed to place a order with them directly through pay-pal but still no luck but i'll keep trying and keep postedand if you do happen to find a way to get parts please let me no =').
Otherwise apart from these difficulty's this car is a very smart, strong and aggresive car on and off road (and also very easy to make waterproof ,strip-re-build and get awsome speeds out)
thanks jamie

 

[olds97_lss]

The actual engine I would look into buying (when the time comes) is an OS .15 CV-RX. If memory serves, it runs around $100 USD.

I don't think OS offers that engine anymore. It was replaced with the 18 CV-R(X). It is pretty much the same engine, just bigger ci, more power and better looking.

 

[HeartBreak]

You're right Olds; I must've been thinking of the CV-X:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZ30&P=ML

I'd recommend the CVRX .18 over the CV-X - a little larger displacement, and a little more power, all in the same mounting pattern.

 

[olds97_lss]

I had one for a short time. The internals looked just like the 15-cvr(x). I had a couple of those... one of which got 14 gallons run through it by me. Then went to a newbie who got 3 or 4 more through it before it died.

Some of OS's engines are reliable and long lasting as all get out. Especially for the price. Just a little weak on power. Which is when they up the ci a bit to get some more power.

 

[chelseafc385]

hi
i have on of these sprint vh-l1 i bought it from that guy.
it has a lot of problems with it and i need some to help me with it.