Ecx torment motor upgrades

[Caleb90]

But in all seriousness, the esc says it is lipo capable with low voltage cut off.

 

[biggman100]

Why would it need a lipo alarm? The esc can run both. I have my protek charger they can use. My oldest younger brother has his cdl and plows roads now, so i hope he can take care of a lipo battery

A battery alarm is actually cheap insurance. Just because the ESC says it has LVC, doesn't mean that it wont malfunction at some point. So far, i havent had that issue with any of my HW or Arrma ESC's, but, i have had that issue in the past on brushed ESC's. Granted they were cheap ESC's from Hobby King and Exceed RC, but, i have also had a Castle fail, and in the process, destroyed a battery and motor, so, you never know. Now, i run an alarm on all my stuff.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

That motor, since its actually a 370 in a 560 can, works well with either the 10BL60 or the BLX100. Thats the motor i run in my Slash 2WD and my Torment 2WD. This is a video of my one Slash 2WD with that motor and a 10BL60:

The Slash is pretty quick with that set up. I do run it with a 2S Lipo, not a NIMH battery though.



The 3650 is the BL version of a 540, and the 3660 is the BL version of a 550.

Actually, the 3650, as long as it is between 3300 and 4400KV works very well with a 60A ESC. A 3660 in the same KV range draws more power, which is why the bigger ESC works better with it.

Axial's motors may not be submersible, but, i run all of my trucks in snow, rain, mud, bury them above the body in water, and, as long as you clean them, dry them, and oil them (a couple drops of sewing machine oil works really well) afterwards, i havent had any issues with mine, except for bearings going, and, when they do i just replace them with rubber shielded ones or ceramic ones. However, if you are going to run in a lot of water, always unplug the fan on the ESC first. This is my Losi 22S at a gravel dump on a wet day:

That video was actually taken almost a year ago, and i just replaced the bearings in the motor a couple weeks ago.

A trick i have used for a long time is to strip the truck, and coat all the plastic parts in a light wax (automotive spray wax for plastic works really well), and the metal parts in WD-40. It makes cleaning a lot easier, and, this way you dont have to go nuts cleaning after every run. I typically redo the strip and clean maybe every 6 to 10 runs.

I always tell people, dont be afraid to run them in water, as long as you are willing to take the steps to prevent rust and issues ahead of time. If you arent willing to do that, then dont run them anywhere near water if you want them to last.

True, some of the "3650/60s" out there are actually like 2845 or something in a 36__ can. You can tell from the deep "cooling ridges", which reduces the effective motor can diameter. These motors are useful for when you need a motor that has a 3650/60s mounting holes, but don't need all that power, and/or want a lighter motor. For example, with smaller scale stuff, this can be useful as a proper 3650/60 motor is often too heavy, inefficient, and runs too hot, but you need those 3650/60 mounting holes to correctly mesh something.

But for a 1/10 scale, it'd be underpowered IMO. Oh wait, never mind, you said it's decently quick?! Is the speed about the same as the stock, brushed 540/550? Crazy how smaller, lighter, more efficient BL motors can hold their ground against larger brushed motors, and if you have a BL motor of the same size as another brushed motor, there's no competition! LiPos will provide enough power for the BL motors so that makes sense.

Ok, I get the whole 5_0 brushed motor equals a 36_0 motor thing now, thanks! In my limited experience, I've found that brushed motors are actually slightly longer than they should be. So would a BL 3670 be equal to a 560 brushed motor?

I never thought that extra 10mm would draw that many extra amps, but looking at my ruler, 10mm longer can length is significant.

Anyway, I read an article from Axial about "The Truth About Water Proof Vehicles", the loopholes, extra issues, ect. I was all familiar with, but it was the water proof-ness (pretty sure that's not a word!) of BL motors that interested me. I think what they said applies to all BL motors, not just theirs, according to them, but I see your point.

Yeah, maintenance is essential in RC rigs! I'm not sure if the bearings in my BL motor can be replaced, I've never opened up a motor before. Does the plastic wax make the plastic all wax-y (dumb question ), what does the wax do? So you basically cover the metal parts in WD-40 then wipe the excess off? I usually don't like making my rigs greasy and stuff.

I'm not really interested in water, I just don't want to do the prep and after-clean, and that's coming from a guy who keeps his RCs pretty dang clean! If I wanted to run my RCs in water all the time, and go on creek crossings and such, I'd just get an RC boat! Good advice for other though, and I think I may try that WD-40 coating thing on some metal parts, just to take precautions.

Why would it need a lipo alarm? The esc can run both. I have my protek charger they can use. My oldest younger brother has his cdl and plows roads now, so i hope he can take care of a lipo battery

Well, a LiPo alarm is super useful (IMO), I love mine, and I'm gonna get a second one sometime, just in case (if anyone has some spare LiPo alarms...PM me!). I mainly use my alarm to check the voltage of the pack on the go, and my charger is a really basic one, so it doesn't have a screen readout with the voltage and such. You need to see the voltage to see if the pack is getting too low, if it's fully charged/how far away from a full charge, the current voltage, and how far away from storage voltage you are. If you have a more advanced charger that can storage charge, show you the voltage, ect. and you know your ESC's LVC isn't too low, then you could do without an alarm, but seriously, they're <$5, as low as ~$3!

Do your bros live with you? If not, it may be impractical for them to come over each time to charge their LiPos. I dunno why, but I got it in my head that they were younger, no offense! Just saying, LiPos are powerful, and like Spider-Man once said (I think it was him anyway), "Great power comes with great responsibility" (in this case, it's not SUPER big responsibility). Just take precautions!

A battery alarm is actually cheap insurance. Just because the ESC says it has LVC, doesn't mean that it wont malfunction at some point. So far, i havent had that issue with any of my HW or Arrma ESC's, but, i have had that issue in the past on brushed ESC's. Granted they were cheap ESC's from Hobby King and Exceed RC, but, i have also had a Castle fail, and in the process, destroyed a battery and motor, so, you never know. Now, i run an alarm on all my stuff.

EXACTLY! And this "insurance" will cost you $5 max, or as low as ~$3, and that's for several years! Also, sometimes the LVC is too low, like 3.1v, especially on very cheap ESCs. Better safe than sorry...I actually don't plug my alarm into my LiPo when I run, because there's not enough room to fit the balance plug plugged into the alarm (I have smaller scale cars), and there's the voltage sag when you punch it, so the voltage can sag several 0.1v's, which is significant, and can cause the alarm to beep at you for a few seconds before the voltage sag lessens, if that makes sense. So what I do is I'll check the voltage every like 15 min or less, my smaller stuff doesn't draw as much power, and I've got a pretty good feel for how much power it's using, so I can kinda guess/ball park the voltage.

But in all seriousness, the esc says it is lipo capable with low voltage cut off.

But that LVC may be too low, like 3.1v....just saying, but you're right, in most cases, the LVC is sufficient. I also use the alarm to check how car away from storage voltage the pack is.

 

[biggman100]

True, some of the "3650/60s" out there are actually like 2845 or something in a 36__ can. You can tell from the deep "cooling ridges", which reduces the effective motor can diameter. These motors are useful for when you need a motor that has a 3650/60s mounting holes, but don't need all that power, and/or want a lighter motor. For example, with smaller scale stuff, this can be useful as a proper 3650/60 motor is often too heavy, inefficient, and runs too hot, but you need those 3650/60 mounting holes to correctly mesh something.

But for a 1/10 scale, it'd be underpowered IMO. Oh wait, never mind, you said it's decently quick?! Is the speed about the same as the stock, brushed 540/550? Crazy how smaller, lighter, more efficient BL motors can hold their ground against larger brushed motors, and if you have a BL motor of the same size as another brushed motor, there's no competition! LiPos will provide enough power for the BL motors so that makes sense.

If you watch my Slash videos, that runs the same motor he was asking about. If i had to guess, i would say it gets about 30MPH on a 2S. Next to my Arrma Fury 2WD, which has the same gearing as my Slash, but has a 3500KV 3650, there is a noticeable difference in speed between the two, with the Fury being slower in a noticeable amount. I dont have a GPS reader, so i have never been able to do speed tests on any of my stuff.

Ok, I get the whole 5_0 brushed motor equals a 36_0 motor thing now, thanks! In my limited experience, I've found that brushed motors are actually slightly longer than they should be. So would a BL 3670 be equal to a 560 brushed motor?

That one i am honestly not entirely sure about.

Yeah, maintenance is essential in RC rigs! I'm not sure if the bearings in my BL motor can be replaced, I've never opened up a motor before. Does the plastic wax make the plastic all wax-y (dumb question ), what does the wax do? So you basically cover the metal parts in WD-40 then wipe the excess off? I usually don't like making my rigs greasy and stuff.

It all depends on the motor, actually. Most BL motors, even the cheap ones, have screws that hold the end plate on, and all you do is take the end plate off, push the rotor out, and then remove the front bearing. The rear bearing can be tricky to remove though, especially if the end plate is plastic. Brushed motors, on the other hand, because of how they are assembled, i typically dont try and rebuild.

I'm not really interested in water, I just don't want to do the prep and after-clean, and that's coming from a guy who keeps his RCs pretty dang clean! If I wanted to run my RCs in water all the time, and go on creek crossings and such, I'd just get an RC boat! Good advice for other though, and I think I may try that WD-40 coating thing on some metal parts, just to take precautions.

I know a lot of guys like that. Nothing wrong with not wanting to have to go through the process of cleaning them if that isnt what you are into. Me, i like playing in mud and dirt and clay. I do have to admit though, sometimes, the cleaning can be a pain, so, i dont do it everytime i run them. Mostly, it started because i got sick of being stuck inside in the winter, so, anytime its above 30 degrees F and not blinding snow, it gets me out of the house, and, living in a mostly rural area, there is way more dirt and mud than asphalt around here, so i just went with it.

I have several boats, but, most of the time, the waters around here are too choppy to run them.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

If you watch my Slash videos, that runs the same motor he was asking about. If i had to guess, i would say it gets about 30MPH on a 2S. Next to my Arrma Fury 2WD, which has the same gearing as my Slash, but has a 3500KV 3650, there is a noticeable difference in speed between the two, with the Fury being slower in a noticeable amount. I dont have a GPS reader, so i have never been able to do speed tests on any of my stuff.

That one i am honestly not entirely sure about.

It all depends on the motor, actually. Most BL motors, even the cheap ones, have screws that hold the end plate on, and all you do is take the end plate off, push the rotor out, and then remove the front bearing. The rear bearing can be tricky to remove though, especially if the end plate is plastic. Brushed motors, on the other hand, because of how they are assembled, i typically dont try and rebuild.

I know a lot of guys like that. Nothing wrong with not wanting to have to go through the process of cleaning them if that isnt what you are into. Me, i like playing in mud and dirt and clay. I do have to admit though, sometimes, the cleaning can be a pain, so, i dont do it everytime i run them. Mostly, it started because i got sick of being stuck inside in the winter, so, anytime its above 30 degrees F and not blinding snow, it gets me out of the house, and, living in a mostly rural area, there is way more dirt and mud than asphalt around here, so i just went with it.

I have several boats, but, most of the time, the waters around here are too choppy to run them.

I haven't had much time recently to watch videos Wait, so the 2wd Slash is FASTER than the Fury, with the same gearing, but with a smaller 390 size motor? I don't have a GPS either!

I have this motor (and ESC): https://www.amazon.com/Surpass-Hobby-2440-4600KV-35A/dp/B09HK49HK4 I don't see any screws on the motor from the pics, and I can't really see the underside of the motor can from how it's mounted in my buggy. The bigger Surpass Hobby motors have screws (or sometimes one screw) on the can though. It does have a metal end plate though, but I don't want to go prying that off. Yeah, most brushed motors are cheap enough to just replace when needed, and that's coming from a budget guy!

My neighbor got an RC boat like 5 years ago, and hasn't ran it once, IMO boats are less versitile than cars (unless maybe you live right next to a beach)!

 

[biggman100]

I haven't had much time recently to watch videos Wait, so the 2wd Slash is FASTER than the Fury, with the same gearing, but with a smaller 390 size motor? I don't have a GPS either!

They are both 540/3650 motors. With BL motors, KV can make a huge difference. My Slash has a 4370KV, and my Fury has a 3500KV, and the 4370 is definitely faster than the 3500.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

They are both 540/3650 motors. With BL motors, KV can make a huge difference. My Slash has a 4370KV, and my Fury has a 3500KV, and the 4370 is definitely faster than the 3500.

Oh, ok. I'm confused, earlier you said in your Slash 2wd, you have a "3650" size motor, but it's actually a 28__/390 motor in a large can, but now you say your Slash has a 3650? Do you have 2x Slash 2wd's, or did you change the motor out on the Slash?

I've heard that kV does make a significant difference, get the kV and gearing right, and you'll have a blast, get it very wrong, and it can result in smoke!

 

[biggman100]

Oh, ok. I'm confused, earlier you said in your Slash 2wd, you have a "3650" size motor, but it's actually a 28__/390 motor in a large can, but now you say your Slash has a 3650? Do you have 2x Slash 2wd's, or did you change the motor out on the Slash?

I've heard that kV does make a significant difference, get the kV and gearing right, and you'll have a blast, get it very wrong, and it can result in smoke!

Ok, i actually went back and reread some of this, and realized where the confusion comes from. My Slash 2WD has a 4300KV 3650. Its my Torment that has the same 4370KV the OP asked about. The 4370KV motors are finned 540/3650 sized motors, but, are actually 370 motors in a 540 sized can. The 3900/4300 motors are true 3650 motors. Speed wise though, the F540 (4370KV), and the 3650 (3900/4300KV), are comparable speed wise, but, the 3650 motors will ultimately last longer. Anyone of the 3 (3900/4300/4370KV) will be faster than a 3100/3300/3500KV motor, even if it is a true 3650.

This is the 4370KV: https://www.amazon.com/Vbest-life-A...648082848&sprefix=4370kv+motor,aps,128&sr=8-2
Notice how the can has cooling fins all the way around. Thats how you can tell it is a 370 in a 540 can.
This is a 4300KV: https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-S3650...648083202&sprefix=4300kv+motor,aps,121&sr=8-4
and this is a 3900KV: https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-3900K...648083745&sprefix=3900kv+motor,aps,233&sr=8-1
Typically, if the can is smooth, that says it is a true 3650/3660 sized motor.

Either way, my Slash, with the 4300KV, and my Torment with the 4370KV, are both noticeably faster than my Fury with either a 3300 or 3500KV.
One "issue" with me, if you will, is that i will buy different KV motors just to see how they work with different platforms. Currently, i probably have a dozen or so 3650 motors in different KV's, just so i can change things up and see how a vehicle responds. Its one of the things i like about RC cars. Unlike my 1;1 race cars, i can swap motors and see how it responds. With the 1;1 race cars, I'm stuck with a 358 CI SBC in the street stock, and either the same small block, or a 467 CI max in the modified, and can't experiment to see what the car will do with different engine set ups.