DXtreme1 TMaxx Dual Builds

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I just bought a Garmin Forerunner 201 so I can record the max speed on my RCs. I've been wanting to post videos of speed runs but it would not be legit to say that the AB Mods is fast without viable proof that it really is. Once I get it and set up both the TMaxx and the Garmin I'll post the videos right away. I have to figure out and fab a mount for the unit to make sure it's mounted securely to ensure that it records the runs reliably and accurately.
 
Those things are expensive for what they are. I wanted to get one... but for $200... I'll just imagine my RC's do 50mph. :)

As for the arma wheels not being splined, the issue you have is when the wheels are splined, but the hex's are not. I run traxxas geode's on my savage and I had to cut the little spline notches out of the wheels so they would fit on the HPI hubs. But all my 17mm wheels that aren't traxxas work fine on the traxxas splined hubs. The hub is a typical hub itself, just has notches cut in it. Traxxas just has to be different...

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Actually, I have a couple garmin car GPS's around somewhere... they keep track of top speed, so I could use one of those. Remember when we used those instead of our phones? Yeah... I spent top dollar on those due to driving everywhere when on vacation vs flying. Now I don't go anywhere and when I do, I just use my phone. I'm sure they are collecting dust or exploded due to heat in one of our cars trunks.
 
I remember those outboard GPS units lol. I used to have 3. I couldn't resist the deal. I got the 201 for $90 with free shipping and it's brand new. So had to pull the trigger on it. I was going to get a Bushnell handheld radar gun but I thought the 201 would be more convenient. I think it will be worth it since it will be easier for me to know if the adjustments I'm doing on the tune is positive or negative. Since I have so many things to tune on the truck right now like the Buku Clutch, CVEC pipe and the motor of course.
Those things are expensive for what they are. I wanted to get one... but for $200... I'll just imagine my RC's do 50mph. :)

As for the arma wheels not being splined, the issue you have is when the wheels are splined, but the hex's are not. I run traxxas geode's on my savage and I had to cut the little spline notches out of the wheels so they would fit on the HPI hubs. But all my 17mm wheels that aren't traxxas work fine on the traxxas splined hubs. The hub is a typical hub itself, just has notches cut in it. Traxxas just has to be different...

EDIT:
Actually, I have a couple garmin car GPS's around somewhere... they keep track of top speed, so I could use one of those. Remember when we used those instead of our phones? Yeah... I spent top dollar on those due to driving everywhere when on vacation vs flying. Now I don't go anywhere and when I do, I just use my phone. I'm sure they are collecting dust or exploded due to heat in one of our cars trunks.
 
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I got my Garmin Forerunner 201 yesterday. I originally was planning to fab a quick release mount for it but decided not to. I could not justify the added weight that the mount would require and the bulkiness to the overall aesthetics of the truck. Hence I decided to use a wedge shaped high density foam to serve as a removable(not to mention functional since it will absorb vibrations and help secure the Garmin unit quite well)mount. I decided to use the rear bumper bracket/bulkhead/shock tower area and used the bumper brackets to secure the Velcro straps on the unit. I'll have to run the truck without my Baja body since the design of the body won't fit in the rear are with the Garmin installed. This works out since I need to make constant adjustments anyways since the truck is at it's tuning stage right now. I may not get the true max speed on the test runs since there's gonna be some aero drag without the body but at least I'll get some baseline numbers. I assume I'll be off by 1/4 to a 1/2 a mile but I think that's acceptable.
 
Just hoping you keep the rolls and wheelies down at all times!;) It would be cool to see a few speed run vids and maybe you'll even be able to show the differences obtained with proper tuning and dialing in.
 
The truck is currently geared to dial out as much wheelies possible lol. I was thinking to cover the unit with the same high density foam and use a strip of Velcro hook and loop to secure it. This should encase the whole unit just in case a mishap happens.
Just hoping you keep the rolls and wheelies down at all times!;) It would be cool to see a few speed run vids and maybe you'll even be able to show the differences obtained with proper tuning and dialing in.
 
Where it's located, you could prob get some shape near that of a spoiler even. I am FULLY aware that it will NOT be a spoiler (so save the stupid comments :confused:) but some aerodynamic form will prove to have some effect, minimal though it may be.
That would be a pretty cool test actually! To see speed differences between lid and lidless runs, spoilers, different types and settings... DAMNIT! Now I want a GPS for my rigs! :hehe: The possibilities are endless!
 
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Ha ha. I'm telling you Certified Mike we're like peas in a pod lol. Check this out. I just fashioned this even before you posted your reply.
 
I must admit... That is a little frightening! (i mean for you...) You DEF don't want to be thinking like I do!!! :confused: :hehe:

That is pretty much exactly what I was thinking! I hope it's enough to keep your gear safe!
 
I gutted the inside part of it enough to house the unit inside the upper foam. With the Velcro strap it should be sufficient protection. Ha ha it really is uncanny how we think alike.
 
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I did a few runs with the new mill yeaterday but didn't make adjustments on the Buku Clutch. However it seems I picked the wrong park to go to. It was later towards the evening so I didn't have a choice but go to the nearest park from my house. Unfortunately though this parked is groomed well it has very thick grass. It also looked like they just mowed the grass and it made running the area even worse since the grass cuttings made it even harder for the trucks to get to speed. I ran the trucks anyways since I wanted to get a good feel for the sound of the motor to see if it was lagging or bogging so I can make the necessary adjustments on the clutch. Everything was going well until the CVEC coupler closest to the exhaust manifold decided to shred off where I had the metal hose clamp installed. I guess that was a bad idea lol. I went ahead and fixed it with the spare CVEC coupler I have and zip tied it and I decided not to reinstall the hose clamp. I'll be soon the tuning today but I'll start with tuning the CVEC pipe first with the OS Carb to get max performance from the pipe then I can fine tune the clutch. I did test the Garmin GPS and with a quick tune I can only muster 23.4 MPH max speed but I think without the optimum tune on all the things I need to tune including the carb settings and the driving conditions the truck was deceivingly faster than I think. Right now the carb settings are unchanged from when I got it modded and HSN and LSN settings are on the rich side.

I also took apart the Buku Clutch for inspection to make sure that it broke in correctly. So far so good the lead shoe(0) has the most wear and shoe 2 had the most. I cleaned it up a bit, cleaned the clutchbell, cleaned the bearings and relubricated them, cleaned the one way bearing and relubed.

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I also added a sponge washer between the throttle ball carb arm and the linkage to minimize slop. You will also notice on the pic that I Indexed the flywheel with red paint so I know when the piston is resting on the bottom . The sponge washer is a Team Assocated part if anyone was wondering.
 
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The sponge washer is a Team Assocated part if anyone was wondering.
There was a thread here just for those at one point. Someone trying to find them... may have been you. lol

Had them on my Losi XXX-NT 20 years ago on all the ball joints. They were too soft to do much for slop, I think their intent is to keep dirt out.
 
Correct the sponge washer is to trap the majority of the dirt from entering the ball joint and the cup. It does center the cup better but doesn't take away all the slop
There was a thread here just for those at one point. Someone trying to find them... may have been you. lol

Had them on my Losi XXX-NT 20 years ago on all the ball joints. They were too soft to do much for slop, I think their intent is to keep dirt out.
and I wouldn't want the washer to be too stiff since you would want some play between the two. If it was too stiff it would introduce too much tension and stress on both the carb and linkage.
 
Got some tuning done today at least on the CVEC pipe and the motor. With some tuning I got to 35.9 mph top speed at least at my cul de sac. It sounds like it was just starting to pick up speed so I think if I had more real estate I could have gotten it to low 40s with some more fine tuning. I think I got the HSN and LSN almost dialed in but I think I still need to mess around with the mixture needle to really get it dialed in. I think with a 16/38 gearing this is not bad at all. I know I have a brand new higher count CB but I don't recall if it's a 18 or 20. I'm thinking of installing the higher count CB to see what I can extract out of the motor. I just want to see if the higher CB can be a better match for my driving style. Right now there's a huge amount of torque on tap but with the smaller spur it keeps the torque in check still. I actually like how the truck responds out of a turn. I can slow down take the turn smoothly and rocket out of the turn. I suspect with this motor I can still do the higher CB and I can still shoot out of a turn since I have to watch the throttle right now or else it will either traction roll or do donuts if I'm not paying attention.
 
I confirmed that I have a 20t CB but it's a .8 Mod so this won't work with my 38t/1 Mod spur. I really wanted an 18t CB but I couldn't find any 18t/1 Mod CB on EBay so it looks like I will have to go either with a 17, 19 or a 20. I think the 17 is too close to the 16 so it looks like it will have to be the 19. Time to place my order.
 
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I was able to confirm that the 11k OS 21/18TM Carb will fit the TRX 3.3. As such and since I was bored this morning(more like finding an excuse and justify possibly purchasing a RB Mod TRX 3.7 motor)I did some porting on the motor. Have not done it in years (like 15 years)but since I have 2 OS 21TM and a 2.5 motor to use I decided to dive in and do it. Haven't run it yet hopefully I didn't end up ruining it but it may be an experiment worth doing. We'll have to see.
 
Ok so it's a no go on the 3.3 since I was already having difficulty with it before the port job and the OS Carb swap it was a long shot to begin with but it's not a total lost. Ended up swapping back the 2.5 motor and installing the OS Carb and a 20t CB instead of the 22t........I knew it was going to be an improvement but I was blown away with how the motor responds. The 20t CB really woke up this engine and the Carb just makes the motor scream now. I'm very happy with he results. Should have done this awhile back.
 
I ran on OS18TM carb in my 3.3 just to have the thing hold a tune. It helped a lot, but I would have a hard time stomaching putting a $80 carb on a $100 engine. lol

The carb was from an old tired 18TM I bought many years ago. Made the 3.3 run really well and hold a tune all day. Before I put the 21TM in, I tried the 18TM again with everything off the 3.3 and it still had more snap to it than the 3.3 did. The 18TM has to have at least 8 gallons on it, probably more. The 3.3 only had a couple.
 
I definitely would not have bought the carb just to slap it on there just like you said the cost doesn't justify the upgrade. I do however out of curiosity wonder if anyone here has actually purchased the RB Mods 3.7 motor. The cost is about the same as a brand new stock OS 21TM. Just want to get feedback on it. So far I've been really happy with my AB Modded OS21 TM(the requested mod was more tuned for racing better mid and top end/smoother and broader rpm range not full on drag) I think it's been easier to start and easier to tune even so now compared to when it was stock. I actually like how the 2.5 responds with the 20t CB/58t Spur and Os carb. I may pick up another 20t CB/58 Spur for the OS motor aside from the 19t CB/38t Spur so see which gearing i like better.
I ran on OS18TM carb in my 3.3 just to have the thing hold a tune. It helped a lot, but I would have a hard time stomaching putting a $80 carb on a $100 engine. lol

The carb was from an old tired 18TM I bought many years ago. Made the 3.3 run really well and hold a tune all day. Before I put the 21TM in, I tried the 18TM again with everything off the 3.3 and it still had more snap to it than the 3.3 did. The 18TM has to have at least 8 gallons on it, probably more. The 3.3 only had a couple.
 
The stock 21TM is pretty decent in my revo. Was a nice bump up from the 3.3. Not nearly as gnarly as the LRP28 in my other revo.
 
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