Dumbest RC related thing you have ever done?

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olds97_lss said:
Some of the dumbest I had were with an HPI 5B SS.

1st thing was as I was building it. I was having a hard time getting the big king pin ball ends to pop together, so I was going to drill a hole through a piece of wood, stick the ball end over it, then have enough gap below it to squeeze the ball into the ball end with a c-clamp or something. I was holding onto the piece of wood in my hand while drilling... thing was, I was using a brand new 12V lithium drill at the time. One of my workers bought it for me for Christmas after helping him setup his new TV/bose system in his house. It spun WAAAY faster and with way more torque than I was expecting. Ripped through the 3/4" piece of wood in a couple seconds and then went into my finger. One of the downsides starting a multi-hour build at 8pm, it was 2am at the point I was using the drill... my judgement wasn't at an all time high by then...
2012-0114-CutFinger.jpg


Nothing like sitting in the ER at 3am like a fool. Luckily didn't cut the tendons, just chipped the bone and ended up with 8 or 9 stitches that took forever to heal.

2nd thing was a week later, I was out breaking the engine in. It was winter, January, snow on the ground and I was on wet blacktop nearing the end of the first tank and it was really getting up to speed nicely. I came flying at WOT at myself on the wet blacktop, with a heavy 1/5th scale 2wd rig with only rear brakes... it did not stop until it bounced up off my steel toe boot (lucky I had those on) and it peeled 5 inches of skin up the front of my shin and tearing my jeans. I got home with blood all over my leg looking like I hit it with a chain saw and my wife was like "Maybe you should get rid of that truck...".

3rd thing was, I bought a 2wd 1/5th scale to run in the colder/snowy months because it would be less fussy to tune in the winter than my nitro trucks. Didn't sink in until I drove it the first time, in the cold/snow/wet that it only had an inch or so of ground clearance, was only rwd and was super heavy. Basically means it gets stuck easier than my 2wd nitro jato, which was totally useless in the winter.

4th thing, I didn't take the smell of pump gas into account. I live in an apartment. All my trucks are in my office. After running a weed wacker, go set it on your dining room table and see how long it takes your wife to complain about the smell. She's also very prone to migraines... and the smell of gas throughout the house for 2-3 days at a time each time I ran it would trigger them.

Over the 2 years I owned it, I drove it 8-10 times. I had put $300+ of upgrades on it, so was near $2k when I sold it for $600. $1400/8=$175. So, not including the hospital bills, it cost me $140-$175 for each time I drove it.

Kind of glad I tried it... really glad it's gone... was quite a machine though.
2011-0902-Baja-ScorpionShortyHDFrontShockTower01.jpg
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Ooo man, that's a pretty nasty injury! And finger injuries, while mostly small, and cumbersome, you realize just how much you use your fingers every day! Always keep your body parts out of a cut/drill path! We're always taught that, but only when we learn it the hard way a few times does it stick! When I was younger, I used to be more careless with my utility knife, it's no katana or saber (🤣🤣), but I did get small, minor cuts here and there on my fingers, mostly at nighttime. It was inconvenient, but I've learned! I've admittedly worked into night too before, but not till 2am, just up to like 12:30am (don't tell anybody!), last time I was converting my 1/14 scale brushed buggy to brushless, and that day the parts came, I could resist...I got the chassis cleaned up, got the motor on the mount with the pinion, trimmed the gear cover (to fit the smaller pinion), and got the job 75% done, then had to call it a night.

Doesn't sound like much, but I work slowly and carefully, plus I take the opprotunity to clean everything I couldn't clean before (like the part of the chassis under the motor, the central drive shaft bearings, ect.)! Next night I fitted the new BL ESC and tidied up the wires. How much power can a little 12v drill have? Not much I guess (we have a 20v BL Dewalt drill, more than enough power for our needs), but perhaps you thought the same thing, and underestimated it? Funny the power difference, 3s in an RC and "3s" in a drill is completely different.

Anyway, moving on, you just casually said "...didn't cut the tendons, just chipped a bone"! I would be screaming near bloody mary by then! 🤣🤣 I haven't actually broke any bones or gone to the ER before, luckily, but I still have many years to do that! 🤣🤣

Gotta have fast reflexes and jump out of the way of an incoming RC beast! I always subconciously take a few step back when I'm driving my RC down the road at speed toward myself, mainly so I can see it better as it whizzes the other way. Perhaps you should wear some shin guards while running! 🤣🤣

1 inch of clearance, for a big 1/5 scale in the winter? That ain't very good (if you don't mind me saying!), most 1/10 scale off-road rigs can beat that, heck, my 1/16 scale MT, stock, has a little over 1 1/4 inches of clearance! It's not even jacked up or anything!

I've thought about Nitro a few times, they seem cool and all, but the price, having to buy fuel over and over, all that tuning (I like to tinker, but not messing about in the cold and with gas, I don't know anything about Nitro!), ect. just doesn't seem practical and all. I think I'll stick to electric, but if someone let me drive a Nitro for a quick while, that'd be fun!

Well, seems like the person who bought it got a great deal...next time, sell something for higher! $140-$175 per run...man, talk about a money waster! I agree, it's best you got rid of it, for many reasons! Some things are just better to not have, I've heard! What rigs do you run now?
 
olds97_lss said:
Some of the dumbest I had were with an HPI 5B SS.

1st thing was as I was building it. I was having a hard time getting the big king pin ball ends to pop together, so I was going to drill a hole through a piece of wood, stick the ball end over it, then have enough gap below it to squeeze the ball into the ball end with a c-clamp or something. I was holding onto the piece of wood in my hand while drilling... thing was, I was using a brand new 12V lithium drill at the time. One of my workers bought it for me for Christmas after helping him setup his new TV/bose system in his house. It spun WAAAY faster and with way more torque than I was expecting. Ripped through the 3/4" piece of wood in a couple seconds and then went into my finger. One of the downsides starting a multi-hour build at 8pm, it was 2am at the point I was using the drill... my judgement wasn't at an all time high by then...
2012-0114-CutFinger.jpg


Nothing like sitting in the ER at 3am like a fool. Luckily didn't cut the tendons, just chipped the bone and ended up with 8 or 9 stitches that took forever to heal.
Click to expand...
I did something similar one time, but it was a phillips bit instead of a drill bit. I was driving a 2" long drywall screw into a subwoofer box I was building. I put all my weight into it, the screw tipped over, and the screwdriver tip sunk about 1/2" into the fleshy web between my thumb and index finger. One of my more gruesome looking injuries, next to the finger in the wood joiner, which could have made a horror flick.
 
olds97_lss said:
Some of the dumbest I had were with an HPI 5B SS.

1st thing was as I was building it. I was having a hard time getting the big king pin ball ends to pop together, so I was going to drill a hole through a piece of wood, stick the ball end over it, then have enough gap below it to squeeze the ball into the ball end with a c-clamp or something. I was holding onto the piece of wood in my hand while drilling... thing was, I was using a brand new 12V lithium drill at the time. One of my workers bought it for me for Christmas after helping him setup his new TV/bose system in his house. It spun WAAAY faster and with way more torque than I was expecting. Ripped through the 3/4" piece of wood in a couple seconds and then went into my finger. One of the downsides starting a multi-hour build at 8pm, it was 2am at the point I was using the drill... my judgement wasn't at an all time high by then...
2012-0114-CutFinger.jpg


Nothing like sitting in the ER at 3am like a fool. Luckily didn't cut the tendons, just chipped the bone and ended up with 8 or 9 stitches that took forever to heal.

2nd thing was a week later, I was out breaking the engine in. It was winter, January, snow on the ground and I was on wet blacktop nearing the end of the first tank and it was really getting up to speed nicely. I came flying at WOT at myself on the wet blacktop, with a heavy 1/5th scale 2wd rig with only rear brakes... it did not stop until it bounced up off my steel toe boot (lucky I had those on) and it peeled 5 inches of skin up the front of my shin and tearing my jeans. I got home with blood all over my leg looking like I hit it with a chain saw and my wife was like "Maybe you should get rid of that truck...".

3rd thing was, I bought a 2wd 1/5th scale to run in the colder/snowy months because it would be less fussy to tune in the winter than my nitro trucks. Didn't sink in until I drove it the first time, in the cold/snow/wet that it only had an inch or so of ground clearance, was only rwd and was super heavy. Basically means it gets stuck easier than my 2wd nitro jato, which was totally useless in the winter.

4th thing, I didn't take the smell of pump gas into account. I live in an apartment. All my trucks are in my office. After running a weed wacker, go set it on your dining room table and see how long it takes your wife to complain about the smell. She's also very prone to migraines... and the smell of gas throughout the house for 2-3 days at a time each time I ran it would trigger them.

Over the 2 years I owned it, I drove it 8-10 times. I had put $300+ of upgrades on it, so was near $2k when I sold it for $600. $1400/8=$175. So, not including the hospital bills, it cost me $140-$175 for each time I drove it.

Kind of glad I tried it... really glad it's gone... was quite a machine though.
2011-0902-Baja-ScorpionShortyHDFrontShockTower01.jpg
Click to expand...
Thats's quite a story you got there, I hope I don't get so unlucky with my 1/6 petrol. But going from a 1/10 to those monsters are quite a change, getting hit by a 1/10 hurts some, some getting hit by a large scale hurts a lot more and. And then you put in the crap 2wd brakes, you really need to take care what you are doing.
 
I spent hours trying to get a wheelnut off some old truck.

Both were stripped on one side...



Because theyre reverse thread.


Lol
 
TheNitroQuakeKing said:
I spent hours trying to get a wheelnut off some old truck.

Both were stripped on one side...



Because theyre reverse thread.


Lol
Click to expand...
What the hell i thought the only reverse thread was propane tanks and old as* gas lines..
That's horrible man I'd be so upset probably just cut them off at a certain point
 
STONER RC said:
What the hell i thought the only reverse thread was propane tanks and old as* gas lines..
That's horrible man I'd be so upset probably just cut them off at a certain point
Click to expand...
I know that left bicycle pedals are all reversed threaded. I believe my Craftsman lawn tractor cutting blade bolts/nuts are RT, too.
 
I have seen reverse threads on wheel nuts before. To this day, I always have that thought popping in my head when I go from one side of the RC to the other.
 
Xraycer said:
I know that left bicycle pedals are all reversed threaded. I believe my Craftsman lawn tractor cutting blade bolts/nuts are RT, too.
Click to expand...
Yeah usually saw blades are reverse thread because of their rotation. Or any sort of circular cutting blade. My Toro lawnmower blades reverse also. Never heard of or seen a wheel nut or any nut really weird
WickedFog said:
I have seen reverse threads on wheel nuts before. To this day, I always have that thought popping in my head when I go from one side of the RC to the other.
Click to expand...
On a RC
WickedFog said:
I have seen reverse threads on wheel nuts before. To this day, I always have that thought popping in my head when I go from one side of the RC to the other.
Click to expand...
On a RC
 
STONER RC said:
Yeah usually saw blades are reverse thread because of their rotation. Or any sort of circular cutting blade. My Toro lawnmower blades reverse also. Never heard of or seen a wheel nut or any nut really weird

On a RC

On a RC
Click to expand...
Yeah. I can't recall which RC(s). One may have been the Marui Big Bear I had because I seem to recall the wheel nuts loosening if I hit the brakes on pavement due to the pins being worn out a bit. Some of the older stuff didn't even have a pin drive. The old Kyosho stuff didn't have a pin or a hex. They had a ribbed flange the wheels clamped against. It's been way too many years to remember. It is something I am reminded of every time I remove the wheels on my RC cars though.
 
WickedFog said:
Yeah. I can't recall which RC(s). One may have been the Marui Big Bear I had because I seem to recall the wheel nuts loosening if I hit the brakes on pavement due to the pins being worn out a bit. Some of the older stuff didn't even have a pin drive. The old Kyosho stuff didn't have a pin or a hex. They had a ribbed flange the wheels clamped against. It's been way too many years to remember. It is something I am reminded of every time I remove the wheels on my RC cars though.
Click to expand...
Yeah I know about the wheel flange. They got them on the duratrax maximum also. It's like a flywheel spacer.. but never seen a reverse thread nut on a rc maybe a flywheel nut. And the old wheel flange used to throw out and buy the clamping wheel hex. Much better then the flange
 
STONER RC said:
Yeah I know about the wheel flange. They got them on the duratrax maximum also. It's like a flywheel spacer.. but never seen a reverse thread nut on a rc maybe a flywheel nut. And the old wheel flange used to throw out and buy the clamping wheel hex. Much better then the flange
Click to expand...
Megatech razor stub axles or XTM bullet rear stub axles are what i replace stock duratrax ones with theyre the same but with PIN HOLE
 
Maximum_Quake_Pro.com said:
Megatech razor stub axles or XTM bullet rear stub axles are what i replace stock duratrax ones with theyre the same but with PIN HOLE
Click to expand...
Yeah I got pin hole now. To hell with the flanges. They suck
 
Being dyslexic I do a lot of stupid poop repeatedly. Such as putting knuckles on a rc only to find out they’re on backwards when I put the tires on at the end. Pull it apart and redo it. Then find out they’re upside down and on the wrong side, then doing it all over again to find out they’re on the right side but upside down, then we move on to backwards and on the right side. Eventually it looks like the directions. Sucks when I do it with gears.

Good thing I like this hobby. It usually takes me 3 times as long to build a kit then others lmao. But I do gain experience from it!
 
At this point, the dumbest thing I can think of that I have done is, building two killer rigs and too damn cold to take them out and run them.:(
 
Tunedpipe said:
At this point, the dumbest thing I can think of that I have done is, building two killer rigs and too damn cold to take them out and run them.:(
Click to expand...
And then finding out you didn’t build them right in the first 2 minutes of running them after waiting 3 months.
 
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