DR10 1967 Mustang no prep build

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Iowa crawler

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This weekends project is to remove the slop from the front suspension. The ball joints have to go. I’m just going to replace the cup and ball end links with hemispheric ball ends.

The biggest slop is the front inner pivot pins. The pins seem tight in the A block and push into the control arm OK but where they go though the front bulkhead is not even a tight fit. So I am thinking I need bigger pins. I happen to have a lifetime collection of old worn out drill bits. I’m hoping I can find the perfect size drill bit and cut it to length. Or go to Ace and buy two new bits.

Next area of attention is the rear suspension and the plastic transmission. But that’s all going to wait till next year.
 

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Things are looking good. 1/8 th inch is a perfect fit in the bulkhead pivots. I have an extra length 1/8 drill bit I can cut up and use for new oversized pins. I’ll polish them to a mirror finish. That will undersized them and it should be good.
 

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That was much simpler than expected. Just cut the drill pieces to length and used a drill to polish and sand them to just under 1/8 inch.
Then drilled the control arms and bulk head.

After assembly with some light oil it has zero slop and there was a hint of bind and it was just the left pin needed some minored polishing

I'm pretty happy with the geometry. Only play is bearings and servo.
 

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Iowa crawler

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Ya win some loos some.

I Made a couple shims from scrap .040 Lexan and shimmed the lower pivot of the C hub. Now it’s finished.
Next is the rear end.
Do I need 6 deg of rear tow in?
 

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Iowa crawler

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It’s New Year’s Eve and I’m sitting at work thinking about my no prep car. Basically I have replaced the entire DR10 with aftermarket parts.
Just some plastic suspension parts and shocks and I will have replaced it all.

So I’m left with a complete DR10 roller. What should I build from it?

My first choice is a stock class 13.5 blinky drag car with the pinto body.

My second choice is to build a dirt dragster. Use a crawler body and sand scoops tires and make a dirt dragster.

What do you all think?
 

WickedFog

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It’s New Year’s Eve and I’m sitting at work thinking about my no prep car. Basically I have replaced the entire DR10 with aftermarket parts.
Just some plastic suspension parts and shocks and I will have replaced it all.

So I’m left with a complete DR10 roller. What should I build from it?

My first choice is a stock class 13.5 blinky drag car with the pinto body.

My second choice is to build a dirt dragster. Use a crawler body and sand scoops tires and make a dirt dragster.

What do you all think?
The Pinto body wheelbase is 11.25". You'd have to have to get a different chassis.
 

Iowa crawler

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Thanks I thought they made that Pinto for no prep. O well, I like the Chevy 2 body also.
 

WickedFog

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Thanks I thought they made that Pinto for no prep. O well, I like the Chevy 2 body also.
It is for no-prep, but it is designed to fit the Traxxas Bandit or Associated SR10 chassis.

Chuckworks RC is supposed to be coming out with a chassis to fit the Pinto, but it will be using Bandit parts.
 

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Ya I was just reading that. I was thinking it would be cute next to the Mustang.
 

Iowa crawler

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Actually my next build is going to be wild. An LCG crawler with Capra Axles and a pulled pro. It’s called a G-Shot.
 

Greywolf74

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It’s New Year’s Eve and I’m sitting at work thinking about my no prep car. Basically I have replaced the entire DR10 with aftermarket parts.
Just some plastic suspension parts and shocks and I will have replaced it all.

So I’m left with a complete DR10 roller. What should I build from it?

My first choice is a stock class 13.5 blinky drag car with the pinto body.

My second choice is to build a dirt dragster. Use a crawler body and sand scoops tires and make a dirt dragster.

What do you all think?
Drift car? Just a thought :)
 

Iowa crawler

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I think I have all the parts decisions and suspension geometry work out. Now I need to replace the plastic gears in the trans with metal. The plastic will be perfect for a lower
power or sand dragster.
I also want to change the rear toe to something less than 6 deg it currently has. Not sure about that.

I just need a couple metal parts and a better slipper clutch. That should round out this build.

Over all this has been really easy to work on. And looks like it’s really easy to do maintenance on. It only takes seven screws to remove the power unit from the frame.

And all the tuning is very straight forward. I can’t wait to see how it performs.
 

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Iowa crawler

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I found the solution to the rear toe. In the stock form there is 3 deg of rear toe, according to my toe gauge.

Exotek sells a C block with adjustable insert's. This allows each side to be adjusted from 0 to 3 deg.
 

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Iowa crawler

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I got the exotek all metal diff and gears. All aluminum with hard anodizing. I don’t think I’m gonna break them.

Watching John Shultz of Element RC he said the 500,000 weight diff oil is for high traction situations. And he suggests something like 200,000 weight. Since I’m just going to be using a leaf blower to prep the surface and probably not in a high traction situation I went with 250,000 weight oil.
 

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Iowa crawler

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OMG 😱
This slipper clutch from Revolution Design is art.
12 pieces and it’s super smooth. I can slip it with my fingers and turn the nut just a bit and feel it get a little tighter. Very adjustable.
I am going to order new clutch plates I suspect the learning curve will be steep.

I will start pretty tight and loosen it a little at a time.
 

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Iowa crawler

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I got the Exotek C block that holds the front of the rear lower control arms.

It has special inserts that allow you to adjust the rear toe.

They look great and snap into the Dragrace Concepts rear chassis. But the screw hole is to small. I reamed the hole and used a cap head screw and it mounts nice.

After installing the adjustments shims to the maximum in position there is just a small amount of toe in. From this position I can move the toe out three more positions. I’ll have to do that when it’s all assembled.

But just using rulers it looks great.
 

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