aaron030886
RCTalk Qualifier
Does it make any difference if I get the real expensive Duracell. Or the regular Duracell for my remote and receiver?
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Double AA Batteries
- Thread starter aaron030886
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aaron030886
RCTalk Qualifier
- Thread starter
- #3
How would I do that? Isn't the truck just made for double AA's?
aaron030886
RCTalk Qualifier
- Thread starter
- #4
sorry, if you look at my posts, I'm probably one of the unfamiliar Nitro RC's people out there... Although I've been operating regular Tyco RC since I was a kid all growing up, and still today! lol
A good amount of RTR nitro’s will come with a 4-cell AA battery holder for the receiver. It works, but the problem lies in the batteries themselves. When an alkaline discharges, it does so in a down hill fashion. So you start at the top and it steadily declines from there and so does the range of the RC.
NiMH batts discharge along a pretty straight line maintaining it’s voltage until just about the very end when it dumps. In this case, since you maintain the voltage, you have consistent range on your RC.
You can’t just put NiMH cells in the batt holder because they are only 1.2 volts each and alkalines are 1.5 volts each. 4 would not give you the required 6 volts.
So your best bet is to get a pre-built 5 cell rechargeable NiMH pack that will fit your rig.
Again, the 4 cell holder will work just fine if you want to use it.
In either case, get yourself a failsafe to prevent a damage causing runaway if your batts get too low.
NiMH batts discharge along a pretty straight line maintaining it’s voltage until just about the very end when it dumps. In this case, since you maintain the voltage, you have consistent range on your RC.
You can’t just put NiMH cells in the batt holder because they are only 1.2 volts each and alkalines are 1.5 volts each. 4 would not give you the required 6 volts.
So your best bet is to get a pre-built 5 cell rechargeable NiMH pack that will fit your rig.
Again, the 4 cell holder will work just fine if you want to use it.
In either case, get yourself a failsafe to prevent a damage causing runaway if your batts get too low.
I have a traxxas hump pack. It is OK, I would suggest going more than 1100mah, it is 6v. I also bought all rechargable batteries for my transmitter. 8 1.2NiMH AA's that I have a seperate charger for. Seems to work good since I still have the crappy stock transmitter.
The RX pack has a unique plug to it. Modifying one to fit any RX is simple.Post up what you have. I agree that you will not only get longer life in each charge with a 5 cell rechargeable pack but will also use the full potential of your servos.
CharliesTheMan
Gone - bye bye.
You will think that you upgraded your servos to high end servos just because of the added power. Also, you can buy a hump pack and charger for about $15 shipped on ebay, and it's WAY cheaper in the long run than buying AA batteries. I reccomend buying one on ebay to see how you like it if you don't want to spend too much money, and if you like it, buy a better brand name one and then you'll have two batteries, so one will always be charged. If the cheap cells fail you in the long run, you'll have the other pack still. The good packs aren't a lot more expensive, so if you can go ahead and get a good name brand cell. I have a cheap one off ebay and it's worked out fine for months so far.
Also, if you don't have a failsafe, you need to get one before you run your RC again, no matter what batteries you have. I can't tell you how many guys I've seen coming on here that said they didn't buy the failsafe because it didn't make the car any faster, but they had a mishap and not having a failsafe cost them hundreds in repairs, and often they have to buy a whole new car.
Also, if you don't have a failsafe, you need to get one before you run your RC again, no matter what batteries you have. I can't tell you how many guys I've seen coming on here that said they didn't buy the failsafe because it didn't make the car any faster, but they had a mishap and not having a failsafe cost them hundreds in repairs, and often they have to buy a whole new car.
aaron030886
RCTalk Qualifier
- Thread starter
- #10
what does a failsafe look like? and how much do they cost? and what exactly do they do?
Mattyfats420
Hardcore RCTalk User
a fail safe just applies the brake if your voltage gets to low. when the voltage gets low you will loose control of your steering, and throttle/brake servo and your car/or truck will go flying away into whatever it sees first. a fail safe will prevent this. there about $15-20
I don't believe the optidrive is a fail safe. It's only purpose is to keep the user from switching from forward to reverse when the truck is in motion.
Considering the cost of a failsafe, I wouldn't question it and just get one.
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Because nitro trucks are suicidal unless they have a failsafe.
CharliesTheMan
Gone - bye bye.
You could get a crawler, if it's runs away you can usually catch up to it. I have insane wheelspeed in my rigs, and I can still give it a head start and catch it. Also, you'll have a lot more fun, so that will kill two birds with one stone.
MrClean
Hardcore RCTalk User
The Revo has a throttle return spring, which is a sort of mechanical fail-safe. Getting an electronic fail-safe is still highly recommended, they can be programmed to apply the brakes or return the throttle to the idle position.
