Build Thread David's Typhon 6s BLX Track Basher / Semi-Racer

[DavidB1126]

Got a stock set of F/R shocks, wing, chassis brace and wheel hexes. Just got arms (V5) and hardware pack (from TLR tuned) from Jenny's RC. Rest is coming from AMain when they have stock/when supply chain moves lol. Bc at the time I ordered it Jenny's didn't have the V5 plastics pack with like the suspension and other plastics so I just said, Amain. Also the steel arm braces for the arm blocks are also on the way, and receiver.

I know, I had ALL WINTER to do this, waited last minute like I usually do. Whatever. It will get done when it gets done. Lol.

Once it's all running I already have some upgrades planned if money allows for it.
Servo - spektrum OEM sucks, we all know that
Track tires - most likely Proline or AKA but I'll try and see what the locals run if they run Jcon, Promotion or any TZO tires.
Batteries - CNHL (4s) for sure but the one I have now I'll give back to my buddy to fix the balance plug on to run for now.
Clear body - bomb Pop paint scheme as normal
4s sensored system if really wanting for it to do better at the track. Even though it's just for fun and bashing and not for hardcore racing.

I will also get whatever the stock "speed" pinion is so it's not as slow or sluggish with the stock I guess 16T? Not sure about gearing on these, @332_RC pretty sure you gave me the pinion and RX box?

 

[332_RC]

I believe yes, that's what I sent iirc

 

[DavidB1126]

Got some progress done tonight with rear arms/dogbones/tierods/hubs. In some of the photos it might look different as I realized some parts weren't lined up so if anyone notices anything that isn't right or is supposed to be flipped let me know

For now I'm going to run without the steel inserts in the arm blocks for now until they show up since I couldn't wait to get back to wrenching on this lol.
Regarding the backordered parts I cancelled off of AMain ill order the plastics pack on Jenny's (hopefully they in stock) to complete the build with needing sway bar stuff, esc tray and OEM battery tray and some spare parts.

Gonna try to get the front done tomorrow night to the best I can, then ill go over to the uncles place and drill out the towers for shock standoffs and dremel some screws out (for rear chassis brace)

Gave my buddy back his battery to fix up the balance lead. Gonna use the TLR Typhon RTR tires as for basher tires and track tires for the time being and using my buddies lipos at the track for the first few times before I get some CNHL 4s packs and track tires.
Already got a spare Flysky receiver in from AMain so should be good to go, just the process of building it up.

 

[RustyUs]

Got some progress done tonight with rear arms/dogbones/tierods/hubs. In some of the photos it might look different as I realized some parts weren't lined up so if anyone notices anything that isn't right or is supposed to be flipped let me know

For now I'm going to run without the steel inserts in the arm blocks for now until they show up since I couldn't wait to get back to wrenching on this lol.
Regarding the backordered parts I cancelled off of AMain ill order the plastics pack on Jenny's (hopefully they in stock) to complete the build with needing sway bar stuff, esc tray and OEM battery tray and some spare parts.

Gonna try to get the front done tomorrow night to the best I can, then ill go over to the uncles place and drill out the towers for shock standoffs and dremel some screws out (for rear chassis brace)

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Gave my buddy back his battery to fix up the balance lead. Gonna use the TLR Typhon RTR tires as for basher tires and track tires for the time being and using my buddies lipos at the track for the first few times before I get some CNHL 4s packs and track tires.
Already got a spare Flysky receiver in from AMain so should be good to go, just the process of building it up.

I was going to asked about the rod end placement/orientation in the last photo, but I'm not sure which is the before and after photos.

 

[DavidB1126]

I was going to asked about the rod end placement/orientation in the last photo, but I'm not sure which is the before and after photos.

First 2 photos I fixed the orientation lol. Once I took a second look at the exploded view lol.

Once it's running I'll do a full in depth alignment.
Not sure how or what size turnbuckles these are bc I have 2 turnbuckle wrenches both with the same sizes. Too small for 5.5 but it's too big for 7.

 

[Doom!]

Can we get more pics of those sexy knees?

 

[DavidB1126]

Well I ordered Jenny's and I ordered the correct 6s BLX plastics kit, and they sent me a Big Rock 3s plastics kit so I will be emailing them soon if they can refund so i can get the right parts, and hopefully keep these as my buddy says he will take it. Hopefully what would work out.

Tonight added rear hinge pin steel braces. Did front diff, lower arms/arm braces, front hubs. Also saw I had a aluminum center diff mount so I ditched that plastic one. Got in new wing mount although older PN it still works but... see below. Also got rear chassis brace in. Was tough getting that screw pin through the wing mount for it but got it done.

Found some small bits and pieces I need, mostly small bits and hardware things.
- ESC Tray
- Battery Tray
- F/R Sway Bars
- F/R sway bar end links
- F/R sway bar hardware
- FR arm hinge pin steel brace (not totally needed?)
- Newer wing mount (not totally needed, works just fine but the wing does not sit properly)
- Drill shock towers for thicker upgraded shock standoffs
- Dremel screw out for rear chassis brace, replace screw
- Hinge Pins for front upper arms?
- Sleeve for bellcrank/bearings?

Might have to go through my parts again and look at exploded views and what is above, is practically it, besides battery and track tires, and a faster servo which ill try to get ASAP when I can bc I already know this stock Spektrum S652 is dog slow. - Planning 9iMod 45kg HV servo, thanks @luke66 for the recommendation.
Was debating if I should run a heatsink/fan bc 2050kv on 4s and conservative gearing, well 16T pinion and whatever stock spur is... Idk, I just put it on anyways. Will search up that fan and see if it can handle 7.4v, if so even better. If not I plan on upgrading the heatsink and run 1x 40mm fan, or run 2x 30mm aluminum fans.

 

[DavidB1126]

Morning updates. Got wheels/tires on. Moved the motor down so the wires are sideways (thanks @luke66 for the suggestion) and got front CVAs/hexes in
Had a spare HW fan so decided to fit that on but it's slightly bigger and doesn't hold on nicely and the YR fan I had the wire ripped out the jst plug. Oof. Should stay cool either way just on 4s.
Also I do have to drill out these towers with a 4mm bit for these standoffs. Would I be ok going with the top 2 holes or should I just do the bottom 2 holes for the shocks just in case? @WickedFog @Littlemotor ?

 

[Littlemotor]

I’d go with the middle two. The far inside would never seen any action from me-and neither would the far outer… That goes for both towers.

 

[WickedFog]

What he said

 

[DavidB1126]

More things done. Almost running besides a few things
Drilling out the tires
Dremel and replace a screw
The front upper hinge screw pins I got at the shop the other day seems like the screw part that goes through the arm block is too small diameter wise so ill see if the correct PN part will work. Will see if the shop has it, same with stock shock standoffs just in case.
And need to get sway bars done too.
But anyways powered it all up and bound the receiver and I didn't know this but the stock spektrum ESC's came on 7.4v out of the box. I thought 6v was the industry standard but that's cool that spektrum did that. They finally did something right for once lol. Also not sure if I mentioned it but I got a newer S665 servo and should be fast enough for me for the time being. Just had to set my end points down low to about 50 percent, at 100 it would be twisting the servo mount lol.
Coming close to being done though!

(On the car is a older wing mount and the one I'm holding is the newer low profile wing mount. Wonder which one I should use?)

 

[9x19]

Did you double-check have someone check the diffs are installed correctly?

Looks good so far.

 

[DavidB1126]

Haven't taken the diffs apart so most likely they are!

 

[luke66]

Haven't taken the diffs apart so most likely they are!

Well if they haven't been rebuilt before then I would bet that they're wrong lol. Arrma quality contol baby.

 

[DavidB1126]

Coming along, more. Also installed the newer low pro wing mount per @luke66 's orders
Yes still need more hardware here and there. and a new turnbuckle wrench to set and do alignment. And also, my homemade shock standoffs, lol. just for the time being during testing.

Noticed that the rear dogbones are a bit short and they come out of the diff outdrive on some occasions. Wonder if I should try to find a longer bone. Because the outdrive came out last night when testing it in the basement and it was binding on the diff outdrive.
Also it appears to go into reverse super fast. Not sure if I should program the esc, reset it or might be the channel reverse in my radio causing that. Will figure it all out at a later date.

 

[DavidB1126]

Got some more work done. Correct front upper hinge pins. Just need the plastic spacers/rings for it. Also got some 5x5 set screws for the axle pin/wheel hexes. also zip tied the battery wires to the center diff cover so they don't get ripped up by the servo horn. Also mostly de-graphiced the body. Looks cleaner. Just need actual shock standoffs and maybe longer rear dog bones, they like to pop out. And then next year it'll be ready for some cleaning up and upgrades. Also set rear camber and front toe the best I could do by eyeing it. Rear camber is set to around -1.5 if the setup is around there. Rear tie rods use a 6mm wrench, just noting.

 

[DavidB1126]

First test/bash session. Holy this thing is a blast. Well that's what they say. dont just bash. blast.
With the tlr tuned tires being a hard compound it slides and drifts very well on the street once you kick the rear end out.
Jumps pretty well although it's pretty heavy lol.
The pinion came off so I went back in, got that back on and loctited. charged up another battery.
Motor got up to 140 (no heatsink/fan). esc and battery was barely 100 degrees, out in 90 degree weather so i call that a plus.
I do agree with @luke66 on the stock 16T its pretty slow. got 18T and 20T in my cart for the future.
Debating if I should bring this on vacation and run it at the soon to be demolished Badlands track in SC.
Also the battery pack, my PRG card read 4.01 besides cell 4 which read 3.89. got it on the charger and read fully balanced out so it's probably normal CNHL G plus issues with the balance wire. I heard its popular for them to rip out so I tend to be very careful with these.

 

[DavidB1126]

First real bash with the ramp and some jumps. Did break somethings but they were fixable. 2 screws for the center diff mount, 2 steering post screws all backed out, came back and loctited them. ESC came off from the mount probably because the tabs broke through so i double sided taped that with Protek clear servo tape and screwed it back down for double protection. All back up and running and here's some short footage. this thing rips. Although I do have to get used to it throttle wise in the air so it doesn't nose dive. Already got some wear on the shock towers lol.

 

[DavidB1126]

Got a new servo in.
9imod 40kg servo.
0.085/60 / 40kg at 7.4v. Impressive for 35 bucks! Beats overpriced spektrum at 0.16/60 / 20kg at a whopping 70 bucks!

 

[CertifiedMike]

Got a new servo in.
9imod 40kg servo.
0.085/60 / 40kg at 7.4v. Impressive for 35 bucks! Beats overpriced spektrum at 0.16/60 / 20kg at a whopping 70 bucks!

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$70 to replace the broken servo with its twin? So ypu can do this again in a few more months?

I hope the new one works well.