CVD bearings going out?

[CamberKing]

So I've noticed a lack of wheel spin (by hand) on the fronts of my 16 scale truck... seems when I tighten the lug nut it's not a free spinner but when loose (I mean un-drivable loose) they seem to spin free.

Is this bearings going out or maybe lack of lubricant? Did I crush the bearings upon tighten down the wheels to hard?

Here's my basher just set with a new body and 2.2 Trenchers

 

[Greywolf74]

Sounds like something is pinching the bearing and not letting it spin freely. If they spin fine when the wheelnut is loose then its not the bearing. Check the exploded views for your kit and make sure everything is put back together correctly and no spacers or anything is missing and make sure everything is in the correct order. Make sure nothing is rubbing anywhere also from the bigger wheels and tires..

 

[RustyUs]

Your new wheels... perhaps while in the mitts of tearing down and putting back together your RC, you have forgot something like a crush tube. Maybe the new wheels are not quite like the old ones, and have an extra bit of plastic compressing on the bearings, or steering block as you tighten down the wheel nut. I had a similar issue and had to buy wider hex adapters for the axles. Either way, the wheels nuts are meant to be cranked down on pretty darn good... something is causing gobs of friction.
The wheel hex socket (as shown in picture below) is deeper than some of the other wheels out there.

1mm wider hex inserted into the wheel's socket (picture below) gave enough clearance to crank down the wheel nuts nice and tight.

 

[CamberKing]

Good morning! This is some good detailed information thank you for this! I will definitely look into this about the hex clearance and all will post updates!

Sounds like something is pinching the bearing and not letting it spin freely. If they spin fine when the wheelnut is loose then its not the bearing. Check the exploded views for your kit and make sure everything is put back together correctly and no spacers or anything is missing and make sure everything is in the correct order. Make sure nothing is rubbing anywhere also from the bigger wheels and tires..

I believe you are right there is definitely something pinching or smashed because I did look at the bearing themselves and they seem to spin with out binding in the fingers.. I will investigate further with the suggestions you've given also maybe try the old set of tires on see if they move free

Thanks again will update!

 

[tntpoof]

from the picture as said above id say its the wheels hex that's sticks to far out so it smashes the bearing . thats whats good about a dremel tool.

 

[CamberKing]

from the picture as said above id say its the wheels hex that's sticks to far out so it smashes the bearing . thats whats good about a dremel tool.

Thanks! Yea I have one of those and I'll see about using it if I have to!

 

[CamberKing]

Update & solution


Okay guys so I've iinvestigated some more with the front wheels not wanting to spin freely.. went as far as popping out the bearings, cleaning them and greasing them putting then back in

And guess what, didn't do anything for me..well except they are buttery smooth if not tightened down!

I then went ahead and tried something, took off the rear side switched bearings around taking the back to the front and still binding!

I then looked at the hex cap & pin intensely and saw something suspicious.....

I gave it some thought and saw (the lip) was a bit squashed and possibly a result to the binding....

The picture below shows arrows pointing right at (the squash) the inner being deeper as that sits against the inner bearing, but the higher point seems to be rubbing the casing between the outer & inner rings of the bearing case!

See picture

So I quickly dug up my old redcat 10 scale crawler (parts truck) took the hex cap off (being the same size) gave it a go

It worked!! We're up and running silky smooth!!

First thing I took notice to is a slightly different design as the center lip that meets the center bearing ring is smaller which is good because it sits right and tight against it!

See picture

I'm glad it worked out! Thanks you guys for the comments and reaching out! Now the only question is, do they make these hex inserts in metal or perhaps aluminum?? So these plastic ones don't serve as a squash plate all the time

Hope this could possibly help others if one ran into binding issues like so..

 

[WickedFog]

Plastic hexes are bad about doing that.

 

[RustyUs]

I know with RTRs, they try and keep costs down to have a more attractive price tag. Including plastic hexes vs. machined aluminum hexes... a company just saved a good chunk of change right there.

It's also quite common to make the move to metal hex adapters if using a high powered system with tires that can grab a handful of traction. The plastic adapters are prone to stripping out . After making the move to metal hex adapters, it then becomes even more important to have great locking wheel nuts, 'cuase now the weaker spot will be the wheel hex socket.

 

[CamberKing]

I know with RTRs, they try and keep costs down to have a more attractive price tag. Including plastic hexes vs. machined aluminum hexes... a company just saved a good chunk of change right there.

It's also quite common to make the move to metal hex adapters if using a high powered system with tires that can grab a handful of traction. The plastic adapters are prone to stripping out . After making the move to metal hex adapters, it then becomes even more important to have great locking wheel nuts, 'cuase now the weaker spot will be the wheel hex socket.

Thanks for the tip and explanation! Yea this is a weaker off brand 16 scale basher.. no sense to me for any other (serious upgrades) I'm just starting out in this hobby so maybe the next bigger next level basher may receive the upgrades or a RTR model already loaded? We'll see I guess

Thanks again to everyone's responses and tips and suggestions as a noobie here with no posts records I feel this is a great community you guys have great crowd!

One more pic of the truck of course

 

[Greywolf74]

Thanks for the tip and explanation! Yea this is a weaker off brand 16 scale basher.. no sense to me for any other (serious upgrades) I'm just starting out in this hobby so maybe the next bigger next level basher may receive the upgrades or a RTR model already loaded? We'll see I guess

Thanks again to everyone's responses and tips and suggestions as a noobie here with no posts records I feel this is a great community you guys have great crowd!

One more pic of the truck of course

View attachment 138281

Gald you were able to figure it out and get it working. Metal hexes should be easy to find if you wanted them. Just make sure the hex size is the same obviously as well as the diameter of the inner hole.

RTRs generally arent bulletproof. All RTRs will have weak points (some more than others depending on brand and just the rig itself) that youll have to find after market part support for so make sure before you buy your next hobby grade rig to make sure its one with a good amount of after market support. Sometimes you can get kits that have some after market hop ups already installed on them but you have to buy your own electronics and stuff separately and install them but I generally prefer it that way as stock electronics while generally ok are usually nothing to write home about and some companies they just suck. The Aarma EXB rigs are a good example of that. Oh and generally speaking just about all RTR servos are just terrible.

 

[CamberKing]

Gald you were able to figure it out and get it working. Metal hexes should be easy to find if you wanted them. Just make sure the hex size is the same obviously as well as the diameter of the inner hole.

RTRs generally arent bulletproof. All RTRs will have weak points (some more than others depending on brand and just the rig itself) that youll have to find after market part support for so make sure before you buy your next hobby grade rig to make sure its one with a good amount of after market support. Sometimes you can get kits that have some after market hop ups already installed on them but you have to buy your own electronics and stuff separately and install them but I generally prefer it that way as stock electronics while generally ok are usually nothing to write home about and some companies they just suck. The Aarma EXB rigs are a good example of that. Oh and generally speaking just about all RTR servos are just terrible.

Thanks for the reply and suggestions along with key points about electric parts and servos! I will be doing some definite research and eye on this forum for the next rig! Definitely gotta go bigger and maybe with-out electrics to choose the better way!