could it just be tuning?

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Nealy587

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ok so i dont know a whole lot about these things yet but am learning alot. so every tmaxx i have seen with the 3.3 will do wheelies for the most part.. my rig is a classic but upgraded drivetrain including axles, drive shafts, tranny and the 3.3 motor. I can't get my rig to do it. could it be tuning? or could it also be suspension.
 
Tuning is the most likely reason, but a loose slipper clutch or a slipping/worn engine clutch could also be the issue.

The short chassis classic is a wheelie machine with a well tuned 3.3, snug slipper and good engine clutch. Suspension plays very little roll with the 3.3 and short chassis as far a wheelies are concerned.
 
Could be gearing or it could be the slipper clutch needs to be adjusted
 
Slipper adjust could be a real quick fix if its too loose it wont get the instant drive it needs. BUT, TMAXX's are NOT easy to tune and keep tuned perfect, so I'm gonna lean towards tuning, even though the 3.3 is easier than the 2.5.
 
yeah I've played with the tuning and i got it to where it runs decent, i guess with not really haveing any comparison. wish i knew someone here that knew more about them than paying a hobby shop to give it a once over.
 
Where are you located? I'd gladly give it a once over and pop some wheelies for ya if you were close.
 
check the slipper clutch... Tighten it up and wheelie away
 
I'm in dallas texas lol.. so i checked the slipper and it was just kinda snugg. i whatched a video on you tube,, and they guy said you should have to rotate it with effort?

---------- Post added at 9:49 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:49 PM ----------

i tightned it about a quarter turn, can't still rotate it but not as easy, guess ill try this out in the am and see what happens.
 
tighten the nut till u can't anymore then loosen a quarter turn maybe a little less if its pretty worn
 
well deff could see a difference after adjusting the slipper and a small amount of tuning. not wheelieing yet but close.. need to tune a lil more then just maybe, i dont want to lean it out too much but i still see smoke so thats a good thing. and i loosened up the screw for the arm and servo and no glitching yet so we will see.
 
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i swear if its not one thing its another,, so i got started on the tuning and all of a sudden the rpms skyrocket,, wtf? so get the lid off and I'm missing 3 bolts from the mount to the chassis and luckily i found the two from the motor to mount.. and my spur gear is looking a lil worn, its a 54 tooth and when i go to the shop i figured i would pick up a couple bigger spur gears.
 
Get some Blue locktite for the engine mount screws while your at the shop.
 
Get some Blue locktite for the engine mount screws while your at the shop.
yeah thats the plan. since the motor was already half way out i started going through it and checking everything for good measure. i have a 54t spur gear now. if i go up what would be a good medium?, I'm not too worried about losing a lil top end cause i dont really use it that much.
 
58T would give you some more wheelie popping torque but you wouldn’t lose too much top speed.
They make a 62T spur that fits the slipper but it may be a tight squeeze depending on the clutch bell tooth count you’re running.
 
ill get both,, for the price its no biggie..and after whatching 40 different tuning vids, and how it ran before the rpms sky rocketted when the motor came loose lol. I've came to the conlusion that its my low speed needle.. ill do a pinch test on it when i get it back together later. I'm sure its close. also is there any certain way that is easier to line the spur gear and clutch gear?
 
Flip your clutch shoes from draggers to pushers, and raise it up. If you make it tall enough you can even do somersalts.
 
Yeah I figure while I'm replacing the spur gear ill flip the slipper pads too. And after talking too they guy at the shop I get a better idea of where to start tuning.
 
Got the slipper pads flipped. Motor all in with some locktight, 58t spur gear in.
F375071E-FFC7-4366-9DDE-FFC8996441E3-6279-00000657B0ABF3E2_zpsdcab5da5.jpg
 
so got the truck going this morning,, was in the 70s so felt great! got out started trying to tune it.. wich until i get it figured out i would rather just pay someone to do it. i think i got the high side so then adjust the low side and then the high side again.. its still not wheelieing but i think i have found a happy medium. when the wife gets in from work ill have her take some video. maybe yall can tell.
 
Dont even worry with lsn until your hsn is good then tune lsn. I know that your have prob been told how to tune but its very simple first warm the truck up run about a half a tank thru not running real hard then bring it to you and see what the temp is. Fill it back up and make a couple WOT passes. bring it to you check temp if its up around 230 to 240 your good if not lean a little depends on how cool its running to how much to lean that will come with experience for now just do 1/8th turn increments (clockwise for lean which you prob already know) do this making a couple passes at a time until you bring it in and the motor is above 200. Once you have the hsn about right fill it up again (you want to tune on a full tank) Then start on your lsn let the truck set still for about 8 to 10 seconds and punch it. If it gargles lean it out some about 1/8th turn in. let it set again 8 to 10 seconds and punch it again. Do this until you get a good clean crisp take off. Once you feel the lsn is good then you can do the pinch test just for a check to make yourself feel better. Pinch the fuel line the motor should speed up and die in about 3 seconds. This is a good test for a quick check on the lsn.

---------- Post added at 12:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:00 PM ----------

Oh and btw forgot to mention all this is with a idle gap set to about 1mm which is about big enough for the tip of a opened up paper clip or a sharpened pencil to fit into it
 
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