Correct way to break in Nitro RS4 RTR 3+ evo

[rasiq]

Hello Friends,

I have bought a Nitro RS4 RTR 3+ evo, I haven’t started it as yet as had issues with the glow igniter and getting a replacement, which is a bummer.

I was going through the HPI instructions manual about break in and it says the following

• New engines need a break in period of 3 tanks of fuel
1st tank
After the engine starts, let it run with the wheels off the ground for one tank of fuel
2nd and 3rd tank
After the first tank, drive the car in a circle at half throttle for two tanks of fuel

Engine Tuning After break in
After break in the high speedle needle must be tuned for high performance running, to return to stock break in setting turn the needle until it is flush with the sleeve

Tuning High speed needle
Turn the high speed needle clockwise in ¼ turn increments

Q) is this the best way to break an engine ( i mean to start if for the first time for long life)

Q) in few forums i have read it is important to have the piston at the bottom of the stroke whilst starting, is this true, if yes how do i get the piston at the bottom of the stroke, kindly include a diagram as this would help me in my understanding, thanks heaps

 

[Amoeba]

Q) is this the best way to break an engine ( i mean to start if for the first time for long life)

Q) in few forums i have read it is important to have the piston at the bottom of the stroke whilst starting, is this true, if yes how do i get the piston at the bottom of the stroke, kindly include a diagram as this would help me in my understanding, thanks heaps

Actually, more and more people are recommending the Heat Cycling method of break-in. It get you up and running faster and puts less wear on the engine as the factory old-school break-in method puts a lot of unnecessary stress on the engine. Check out the sticky in this forum: https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42716

As for finding your BDC (bottom dead center) pull out your glow plug and manually rotate the flywheel. You should be able to eyeball when the piston is at BDC by looking through the glow plug hole. Take a sharpie and mark your flywheel so you know where BDC is located. You'll use that marking to move your piston at BDC after bashing/racing. Having the piston at BDC isn't necessary for starting, you'll get enough rotations during pull/roto/bump starting to get ignition. The reason for putting it at BDC after running is because heat contracts when it cools and the piston sleeve will contract faster than the piston which will wear out the ""pinch" your engine needs for good compression over the long run. BDC placement ensures that doesn't happen.

 

[XxVASSAGOxX]

i think the traxxas or the new heat cycling is the best break in, the old on the box break in is harmful and its very easy to do what amoeba said just look down the hole for glowplug and rotate you fly wheel use a flashlight if u can't see piston head well. then just take a sharpie or whiteout or somthing and make a nice visable line on your fly wheel so when you move flywheel with fingers you no your BDC for cooling i dont recomend breaking it in with the box top method its old and stressfull to engine

 

[Rolex]

Here's the link to the sticky in the General Nitro section. It also contains the same heat cycle method in full size print.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832

 

[newbie1]

best way i think is in 2 tanks idle 2 tanks 1/4 throttle 2 tanks half throttle 2 tanks 3/3 throttle then your good to go in the manual they do the bear minimum you want it to last longer take your time worth it in the long run. the companies dont want your engines to last think about it that way

 

[Scrogg]

Heat cycle is the only proper way. I have may engines running well past their normal life span to prove it.
1/4 turns are too aggressive. 1/8th turns are the proper way.