Clutch Bell Adjustment? 8t

[Elmerfudd]

I had a question on the clutch bell alignment on my 8T. How far away(or close) is it supposed to be away from the trans? I have read about the bells breaking teeth and I do not want mine to. Anyone know? Thanks.:bow:

Plus has anyone else bent a left rear lower outer control arm shaft/bolt? I bent two already.

 

[jetmechG550]

You set your gear mesh with a piece of paper. Tear a thin strip of standard white copy paper and feed it between the clutchbell and spur with your engine mount screws slightly loose. Push the engine into the spur with the paper in the gears and then tighten the engine mount. Pull the paper out and you should be golden

 

[frickenjoey]

Yup what JetMech said should fix your problem there on the bell gear. On the control arms.... I have found when I stop running in to stuff I don't break them....lol.....sorry had to take a gouge...it happens to all of us.

 

[neobart]

He's talking about the the rear outer hingepins, and yes they seem to bend´. I think amain has an upgrade for that, which requires you to drill out the hubs and arms to accept a larger diameter hingepin.

Ah, here it is.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_24_624/products_id/16263

 

[Elmerfudd]

Now as far as the paper alignment, do you push the motor close enough so you have to turn the paper out by turning the gears? or push the engine just close enough so the paper can be pulled out easily? Sorry I am a little technical when it comes to directions, I just do not want to screw up.:LoL:

As far as the rear hub lower pin, I checked that site and I did see that already, but it says it is for the 8, not the 8T so I was skeptical. Have you yourself tried this out or know:no_commen someone who has and it actually fits? I already ordered the titanium rear lower arm bolts, but it only says 8, not 8T on the package and they are shorter by about a 1/4" to 1/8". I have not tried them yet. I think it will be too short. I think the reason why that pin bends is because the 3 plastic spacers they have in the back of the pin allows it to bend more easily then if it was a solid spacer. What do you think?:no_commen

 

[neobart]

That part in particular is the same on the 8ight-B/T, I know as I have both.

And that part bending is the only issue I've had in the 3-4 gallons I've raced it.

As for the bell spur alignment. Just get it to where there's a little backlash. Hold the spur steady with one finger and the bell should have just a tick of play.

I hope this is making any sense. English is not my native tongue.

 

[Elmerfudd]

Gottcha, thanks. I guess I jump too high or crash too hard and bend that part more often. LOL>

 

[Coach Z]

Using the paper for gear mesh method you can push the gears together pretty hard and you may have to spin the paper out by turning the gears.

 

[Elmerfudd]

Thanks coach for the clarification. That is what I needed.

 

[Rolex]

Coach Z has it right. If you do it by hand, you might have to do it several times to get it right, since the engine tends to move a hair as you tighten it down. With the paper in there, it can not move any closer than the perfect mesh. It works every time.

 

[Elmerfudd]

Well, I went to adjust my clutch bell a couple of days ago and the bolts were so tight I stripped the allen head! %@$#! What now? Should I just use a punch at an angle to see if I can get it loose?

 

[jetmechG550]

Dremel and a cut off wheel, make a slot and use a screwdriver. Or see the screws thread in the general nitro for the link to the sears screw outs.

 

[neobart]

I had the same problem when trying to readjust my mesh yesterday. I ended up stripping it down to it's bare chassis with only the mounts still on. Then put it in the oven for 20min. I still had to use force, but I got the screws off.

 

[jetmechG550]

If you take a lighter and hold it so the flame heats up the screw it will help loosen up the loctite.

 

[neobart]

I tried that first, didn't work. So I went to more drastic measures.

 

[Elmerfudd]

I'll try those idea's, thnaks!