Bought a used traxxas revo, have a couple of questions about identifying upgrades, and about a couple of issues

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SLiCKWiDNiCK

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ahh makes sense, yeah that one was plastic geared, what engine are you running/plan to run?
I'm pretty sure it's just the stock engine. When I bought it, I was getting one of two of them the guy had. I paid 250 for it, but then he offered me the other one for 150, and my dad wanted to get one. So I had been mistaken some how because the guy had one that was pretty well entirely stock, and one that was upgraded. I ended up choosing the stock one, thinking it was the one that was all tricked out, then we get there and I realize I ended up with the stock one. So anyway, we get there and buddy offers us all of his RC gear for 550, extra wheels, tools, temperature reader, parts, a traxxas stampede that needs a servo controller I think, and a fuyma (?) Blackfoot it's like from the 80s or something, that needs a little TLC as well..
 

cbaker65

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If your sticking with the 2.5 or 3.3 engine, the plastic one will be fine. I only had issues when I went with a big block and the OS21TM engines. Then I went with the full robinson racing steel gears with their FOC. I don't think they offer a reverse option anyway.

My big block revo is a bit of a bastard, but on 21TM revo has the standard ratio RRP kit in it:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/robinson-racing-steel-forward-only-gear-kit-standard-ratio-3.3-only-rrp8002/p57427

My BB started life as a 2.5R slayer which has a different set of final output gears in it than the revo's do. At the time, I just upgraded the top shaft and 2 speed gears, then never had to deal with it again, even with an LRP28 in it. Probably 3-4 gallons ago, 5+ years.

Years later when I got another revo, I wanted to like the 3.3, but it just wasn't enough power for me, so instead of going full big block again, I spent $250 on the 21TM. It was ok until about the 9th tank of break-in, then I started chewing up the trans gears. After the 3rd time of pulling the trans out, I went with the full RRP kit in it and haven't had the trans open since. That was a couple years ago at least.

I don't drive my nitro's much anymore. But the $ I have in them, it's not worth selling either as your lucky to get 40% of what you have in them.
Lol....a 28 in a slayer!......
 

olds97_lss

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Lol....a 28 in a slayer!......
No, it was a revo by then. As a slayer, the 2.5R was fine. It just felt too "bulky" to me and not overly fun. Then I converted it to a revo with RPM truetrack and 3.8" tires, then it was a dog. Went to big block after that.
 

SLiCKWiDNiCK

RCNT Rookie
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23
Also, when I first got this revo, I took the wheels off because they were dirty, so I could take it up to my room to clean it up and un-seize the dry-seized motor. When I put the wheels back on, I must not have tightened one of the wheels all the way and ended up stripping the hub and the wheel where it connects to the hub. So I bought the 17mm upgrade, because I had a set of 17mm wheels in all the extra parts when I bought all this RC stuff. Now though, I notice a lot less steering control because I notice the front end lifting up more than it did before. Any way to get back the control I previously had?
 

olds97_lss

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I don't think I follow the issue your having. Front lifts more due to the wheels? What wheels/tires did you go from and what did you go to?
 

SLiCKWiDNiCK

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I don't think I follow the issue your having. Front lifts more due to the wheels? What wheels/tires did you go from and what did you go to?
Well I'm not sure if the wheels on it when I got it were stock, but they were 14mm hubs and smaller wheels than the 17mm hubs and bigger wheels I have on now. I got all this stuff used so without some research, I have no idea what the brand or models are. I just know that it turns a lot less and the front end lifts up. Maybe since it sits higher now that may have done something to the way it drives and the balance or something.. I was just curious if anyone may have some insight on it.
 

D3MON

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so the set on the left are Pro-Line Mashers, from what you are saying they arent 40 series but if you look at the sidewall it should have 40 Series or it wont.
have a set of the 40 series on my Monster GT really like them surprisingly good grip for a chevron pattern.
ones on the right are Pro-Line Moabs 40 series, really popular tire for a awhile there.
haven't ran the Moabs before.

I'm wondering if its the weight of the tires/wheel causing your steering to not work as well?
if the mashers arent 40 Series could also be the size too.
 

cbaker65

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The one facing up is the tires that were on it originally..
The chevron tires have a more harder compound ,so therefore ,there is less flex ,the other tires on the
beadlock wheels are probably softer ,the softer the tire ,the more they will flex!

So ,that's why your truck is squatting when you punch the throttle or brake!

My truck does that real bad with the Losi claw tires because they are real soft ,they also get
way better traction than the chevron style tires!

You can try stiffening up the shocks a little!
 

cbaker65

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Awesome thank you very much for the quick response and insightful advice, I really appreciate it.

The tires ,an shock set up plays a major role in your rides performance ,it all depends on what your doing
with it!

In my case ,I am just a basher ,I like it rough with big air jumps ,so I like big soft plump tires to help with
landings!

You can also try a stiffer spring an thicker shock oil to stiffen the suspension!

It all depends on what & how you run your truck ,also the terrain!....:cool:
 

olds97_lss

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The downside with big, soft, wide offset and heavy tires is they put more leverage on everything. This includes the steering servo and servo saver spring. You can try to offset it some by getting the HD servo saver spring, but then you run the risk of stripping the stock servos as it's intended to be used with metal geared servos. You can replace teh 2 servos with one good one and the HD spring as well.

Also, the extra weight/leverage of bigger tires strains the arms/knuckles and shocks. I ran 3.8" trenchers on my brushless revo for a bit, but ended up going back to traxxas 3.3 t-maxx wheels/tires. The larger OD/heavier tires require more torque to get rolling, which was hard on my slider axle joints, the taller sidewall made the shocks compress further, which led to busted shock ends. Also, the heavier tires pulled down more when crashing and would rip shock ends/rod ends completely off.

Was fun while it lasted, but quickly became more trouble than it was worth.
 

SLiCKWiDNiCK

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Okay so I just refilled the four shocks with 80wt. Shock oil, I put the blue springs on the back and the silver springs on the front, and moved the front push rods to the outside position and the back push rods to the inside position and I'm about to go out and see how the steering handles now...
 

SLiCKWiDNiCK

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It doesn't seem much more stable than from when I just upgraded the wheels. I know that's not the best video, but I couldn't get it to make very sharp turns until at about 1:34 I have the steering pinned to the right and to get it to turn as sharp as i was getting it to turn, I had to feather the throttle, if that makes any sense. I dunno, maybe I'm expecting to be able to turn quicker than the speed of the revo is capable of because I'm not experienced enough with it yet, it's probably that.
 

cbaker65

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Nice ride!..:thumbs-up:

Yea ,bulky tires don't turn to sharp ,however ,if you was out in hard dirt ,it will turn better!
It wont perform that well on grass ,you can check the pivot ball joints to make sure that they are not too tight!
 

D3MON

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It doesn't seem much more stable than from when I just upgraded the wheels. I know that's not the best video, but I couldn't get it to make very sharp turns until at about 1:34 I have the steering pinned to the right and to get it to turn as sharp as i was getting it to turn, I had to feather the throttle, if that makes any sense. I dunno, maybe I'm expecting to be able to turn quicker than the speed of the revo is capable of because I'm not experienced enough with it yet, it's probably that.
Almost wondering if your servo is weak or your servo saver needs tightened. If you were to place it on the ground like in some dirt, without it running and turn, do the wheels turn? Or just barely move? When testing this look at the servo arm itself, is it rotating and tires aren't or is it barely rotating compared to when you lift the tires off the ground as well? If the servo arm is barely rotating I'd suspect a weak servo, if the servo is rotating the same as if the tires are off the ground it would be too loose servo saver.
Nice ride!..:thumbs-up:

Yea ,bulky tires don't turn to sharp ,however ,if you was out in hard dirt ,it will turn better!
It wont perform that well on grass ,you can check the pivot ball joints to make sure that they are not too tight!
I would think it would turn sharper than that though wouldn't it? I could be wrong as I've never ran a revo, but seemed like my maxx with 40 series was turning sharper, been a long time though so memory isn't the greatest lol
 

cbaker65

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Almost wondering if your servo is weak or your servo saver needs tightened. If you were to place it on the ground like in some dirt, without it running and turn, do the wheels turn? Or just barely move? When testing this look at the servo arm itself, is it rotating and tires aren't or is it barely rotating compared to when you lift the tires off the ground as well? If the servo arm is barely rotating I'd suspect a weak servo, if the servo is rotating the same as if the tires are off the ground it would be too loose servo saver.

I would think it would turn sharper than that though wouldn't it? I could be wrong as I've never ran a revo, but seemed like my maxx with 40 series was turning sharper, been a long time though so memory isn't the greatest lol
If I'm not mistaking ,the Mgt's had a plastic stop on the skid plate ,I think that I took mine off!
 

D3MON

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If I'm not mistaking ,the Mgt's had a plastic stop on the skid plate ,I think that I took mine off!
i know the one side of the bellcrank would impact the diff people used to grind the diff a bit to hvae more room, but as of yet doesn't really matter to me and i would rather not grind the diff case lol getting way to hard to find nowadays.

unless it already has an aftermarket servo id say go with a more powerfull one, I've been likeing my Hitec HS646WP and only cost 43$, Savox makes some nices ones that are more powerfull, the ones I've been recommended are in the 80-100$ area.
 

SLiCKWiDNiCK

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Almost wondering if your servo is weak or your servo saver needs tightened. If you were to place it on the ground like in some dirt, without it running and turn, do the wheels turn? Or just barely move? When testing this look at the servo arm itself, is it rotating and tires aren't or is it barely rotating compared to when you lift the tires off the ground as well? If the servo arm is barely rotating I'd suspect a weak servo, if the servo is rotating the same as if the tires are off the ground it would be too loose servo saver.

I would think it would turn sharper than that though wouldn't it? I could be wrong as I've never ran a revo, but seemed like my maxx with 40 series was turning sharper, been a long time though so memory isn't the greatest lol
The wheels turn pretty quick when it's sitting on the grass, that's one thing that impressed me the first time I turned the the truck on. It may also be the yard, i noticed the dirt isn't very flat, lots of bumps. when I turn the wheel when it's sitting on the grass it turns pretty quick. I'll find out where the servo saver is and try tightening it..also I was watching a video on YouTube to figure out the shocks, and it looked like the revo 3.3 that buddy was working on had more parts on the front end than mine I'll take a pic of my front end and maybe if I am missing that part, maybe it's that
 

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