Bought a used traxxas revo, have a couple of questions about identifying upgrades, and about a couple of issues

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SLiCKWiDNiCK

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I've obviously got it sitting on a smooth wood floor, but I thought I'd show how responsive it is anyway

 

Heisenburg

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My friend's E Maxx had a similar problem. The gears on 1 servo were stripped out. We replaced those. He also had "Glitch Busters" installed at a hobby shop. Worked well after that, turning the wheels at rest on carpet.
 

D3MON

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hmm, seems really responsive, dont think the servo saver is set to loose after looking at that video. does your controller have end point adjustments? although that said on end point adjustments, your Tie rod ends are almost impacting your inner wheel, which is something you dont want.
watching the video again from before it looks like it turns right alot sharper than it turns left. have you double checked your tie rod end lengths are similar if not the same?
as much as i hate them, I'm almost wondering if some higher wheel offset 17mm adapter is going to be needed on those to allow them further spaced off the tie rods.
 

SLiCKWiDNiCK

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hmm, seems really responsive, dont think the servo saver is set to loose after looking at that video. does your controller have end point adjustments? although that said on end point adjustments, your Tie rod ends are almost impacting your inner wheel, which is something you dont want.
watching the video again from before it looks like it turns right alot sharper than it turns left. have you double checked your tie rod end lengths are similar if not the same?
as much as i hate them, I'm almost wondering if some higher wheel offset 17mm adapter is going to be needed on those to allow them further spaced off the tie rods.
I'll check that out for sure. Another thing, does anyone know of another rc that's comparable to the revo 3.3, but one thats a street car? I wanna get my brother an rc but he says he wants a street racer, I wanna make sure to get him something nice and fast and durable, something around the same size.
 

D3MON

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most on-roads are going to be quite a bit smaller comparatively than the off road/MTs. (width from outside of wheel to outside of wheel is approximately 200mm for nitro, 190mm for electric 1/10) if going for nitro, i really like the RS4-3 platform, and has been out awhile so companies make upgrades for them. electric, lots of options to choose from. i would still say the RS4-3 platform though, but many other good companies.
i would recommend to start with a shaft drive instead of a belt drive to learn with, shaft is alot more forgiving if you hit some dirt/rocky patches. belts get torn up quick.
 

olds97_lss

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Also, onroad is pretty much strictly used on relatively pristine pavement/blacktop. They sit so low to the ground that they can catch on stuff. The lack of suspension travel makes them get upset over cracks, pebbles and stuff. Fun in a nice parking lot for going flat out and carving around corners. Traxxas used to have a nitro onroad, but I don't see it listed on their site anymore. Seems nitro has really taken a back seat to electric these days.

The most "onroad" I'd go would be a rally car of some sort. A little more ground clearance and travel with more aggressive tread on the tires to mess around in a ball field or not so pristine parking lot. Or even for screwing around in a skate park within reason.
 

SLiCKWiDNiCK

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Also, onroad is pretty much strictly used on relatively pristine pavement/blacktop. They sit so low to the ground that they can catch on stuff. The lack of suspension travel makes them get upset over cracks, pebbles and stuff. Fun in a nice parking lot for going flat out and carving around corners. Traxxas used to have a nitro onroad, but I don't see it listed on their site anymore. Seems nitro has really taken a back seat to electric these days.

The most "onroad" I'd go would be a rally car of some sort. A little more ground clearance and travel with more aggressive tread on the tires to mess around in a ball field or not so pristine parking lot. Or even for screwing around in a skate park within reason.
Yeah, my bro like to watch those hoonigan videos, so I'm thinking he probably wants something for drifting and road racing. I'll suggest a rally car to him too and see what he says..
 

SLiCKWiDNiCK

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Does anyone know what the proline racing bodies are made of? I wanna repaint the one I have just for fun so i have an idea what I'm doing when I order a new one..
 

olds97_lss

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Does anyone know what the proline racing bodies are made of? I wanna repaint the one I have just for fun so i have an idea what I'm doing when I order a new one..
Lexan I believe. You kind of need to use lexan specific primer and paint to get it to stick.
 

SLiCKWiDNiCK

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Lexan I believe. You kind of need to use lexan specific primer and paint to get it to stick.
I've got some paint in the box of parts, like 6 or 7 cans of tamiya I think it's called. I also bought some easy off, but I think I got the wrong stuff, I got the blue can..
 

D3MON

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EDIT: to get paint off dot4 brake fluid works well. takes time and elbow grease but about the best i found without damaging the body. it will make the new finished product look a bit foggy though.
 
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olds97_lss

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to get paint off dot4 brake cleaner works well. takes time and elbow grease but about the best i found without damaging the body. it will make the new finished product look a bit foggy though.
I've used brake cleaner on lexan... it ate through the lexan in about 20 seconds. Not sure what "dot" it was. Gummout probably.
 

cbaker65

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You have to be careful with any petroleum base cleaner or chemicals ,if they don't melt it ,it will cause
the lexan to become brittle an crack!

I would scratch trying to clean the paint off ,if you want to practice on it an don't care about what happens to
it ,I would paint the out side of it!
Eventually ,the paint will get scratched ,but you can always touch it up!....:thumbs-up:
 

olds97_lss

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Use loctite on the screws to the back plate and use short quick pulls. If I don't have a primer bulb (which I do use on every truck), I plug the exhaust with my finger then do a couple quick pulls to get fuel flowing through the line and stop when it gets to the carb. Then put the heater on for 4-5 seconds and try starting while applying a little throttle. Once running, I blip the throttle a few times, then remove the heater.

I use these on all my nitro's:
https://www.amazon.com/Team-Associated-25076-Primer-Vehicles/dp/B000BO53NO

I keep a spare on hand as they are a bit fragile, but they make priming less messy and give you more time on your roof before the engine stalls. Also, makes it so your rotating the engine less when it's dry. I use zipties on both ends of it and on the fuel line connecting to it.

This is where I put it on my revo's:

 

SLiCKWiDNiCK

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Okay, so I just installed a pull start on my revo, and deleted the whole ez-start system. My question is, where does the engine get the spark to ignite the fuel, if I've removed the wire to the glow plug?
 

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