BNRPat09's LST

[bnrpat09]

lmk what you guys think
any other hopups or upgrades i should get???
i put alot into this truck, and has payed off well.

has
axial .28 Spec 1s (have LRP Z.28 Spec 3 waiting when axial blows up)
all 4 Titanium nitride shock shafts
all 4 corners of Titanium nitride hinge pins (inner and outer)
titanium nitride spur gears and clutch bell gears
integy aluminum side skirts
spektrum z590m throttle servo
maximizer +1 inch beadlock rims
zombie max's
hard anodized aluminum shock bodies with aluminum adjusters
hard annodized diff cases
hard annodized skid plates
hard annodized finned engine mounts
GS racing dual chamber aluminum tuned pipe
Reedy 1100 mah reciever pack
Dodge RAM2500 mega cab body (custom painted with metallic flake blue w/ carbon fiber flames)
rear aluminum body posts
rpm a-arms all the way around
rpm gear cover
high performance brake pads
ofna throttle mod, (with a few add ons and adjustments)
3 piece clutch shoe racing flywheel
ofna aluminum clutch shoes
aluminum engine support brace
motor saver air filter
foward only transmission conversion

already planning for
. titanium driveline
. graphite top plates
. aluminum shock caps

 

[jon2]

Nice rig man. I hope my LST and LST2 can come together soon. Is that a MGT Header? If you ever think about upgrading, I bought a OS Onroad header and the OS T2040 pipe.mated to an XTM 247 pro, it was just rediculous in power. I had to thiken up the diff oil since both were unloading to quick. I went from 5K f/r to 10k/10k f/r. Iets see some vids!!!

 

[ohmygahitscoby]

You might want to put some air holes into the body for the engine to cool off and heat to go out of the body when you have it on.

 

[bnrpat09]

hey guys thanks for the compliments, i was thinkin about the hole for the body, but i decided i wanted to keep my ram body for show, i was gunna go buy a beater body soon that i could drill cooling holes in, and flip on all i want, hahaha

thanks guys

 

[jon2]

Most MT's don't need the additional holes if the body is high enough.

 

[olds97_lss]

That's a mean looking basher!

Curious what header your running. Doesn't look like any I had seen that are LST specific.

 

[jon2]

Hey Olds I think he is running a Team Associated MGT header. Looks just like it.

 

[olds97_lss]

Ah. Thanks. Nice to know there is more than one coupler type header out there for the LST.

 

[Lessen]

Nice lookin rig bro. Looks like you got the right parts in the right places.

 

[bnrpat09]

alright thanks guys, i think that my header is the losi header but its just silver and i sanded it with steel wool.
I'm pretty sure its the stock losi aftershock/losi header

 

[jon2]

Here is the MGT Header

Here is the LST

I only say its the MGT is because the LST header is a one piece pipe type header. Yours is not. The MGT uses a rubber coupler on it.


Not sure what you did to the header but it looks more like the MGT one.

FYI the MGT header does fit but you need to make a your own pipe wire mount.

 

[olds97_lss]

The aftershock header isn't a one piece. It's like the MGT one, but still is black.

To me, the one on your truck looks like some of the bend out is missing which puts the pipe closer to the truck chassis.

I guess yours does look like the losi one... is it bent?

 

[jon2]

For clarity, it looks like the aftershock header... I forget that model.

Thanks Olds for bringing that up.

 

[bnrpat09]

ya, i looked it up its the aftershock header i have.
it is closer to the chassis because i drilled holes to have to exhaust header sprinds and i cut my exhaust hanger for a straiter flow
ill take my header off and show you guys what i learned a while ago
my trick makes your engine get better exhaust flow and more power.

 

[bnrpat09]

hey guys heres an update, now i finally got all the losi titanium nitride parts

so now i have titanium hinge pins all around outers and inners and all the shock shafts

 

[jon2]

man post pics of the rig!! I have almost everything to get this thing pieced back together.

I am going to try two different pipes and header combo's.

First is the Losi HT pipe and then my old OS 2040 with an onroad header. The header is considerably shorter but it fits. Just need to mount the pipe mount elsewhere.

Congrats on the Ti-Ni upgrade. Getting the gears only for now but have the Ti-i shafts for the shocks.

 

[bnrpat09]

you should consider all

for all hinge pins and shock shafts and the spur gear/pinion combo i only spent around $190

and that was even reasonable to me and I'm only 17 with no job
hahahahaha
lol

also olds do you think i should get the titanium nitride diff gears too or do you think the steel is strong enough for the axial .28 spec 1s and my lrp .28 spec 3

 

[olds97_lss]

I think stock will hold up for quite some time. If you maintain them properly.

I'd highly suggest getting the HD diff cases that losi will soon be offering. I know I intend on getting those cases as soon as they come out so I won't have to worry about diffs much this coming season.

The only real wear I noticed on my diffs were where the cross pins go into the grooves within the little diff cup. The pins wore nasty gouges in the grooves. The HD version eliminates this problem for the most part. This was after 4 gallons with the stock engine, 1 gallon with an OS21RG and probably an additional 3-4 gallons with the LRP28S3. All in all, the diffs are holding up really well.

Here's a link: http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdId=LOSB3528

Personally, I wouldn't spend the money on the spurs either... I like having a "weak" spot that's easy/cheap to fix. I keep 3 sets of spurs laying around. I've only messed up two sets in the 8+ gallons I've ran through the truck. One set was prior to getting the clear spur cover on the back for my aftershock. I'm pretty sure a pebble got in there and f'd it up. The second set was due to my CB screw coming out and my CB getting thrown out of alignment.

JMHO.

My ring gears have a odd helical cut look to them now though...

These are close ups of my ring/pinion after the above time/fuel run through them. They are the originals that came on the truck.

Link
Link

All in all, they don't look that bad. No chips on any of the teeth, just the weird slight curve on the teeth of the ring gears. I have two brand new diffs in my pit box waiting... but I think I'll upgrade those to the HD diff cups as well when they become available.

Unless someone else knows of some other brand that is built the same and is available now.

Also, I filled them both with 50K OFNA oil. Upon reinstalling them, I noticed the front diff catches and is hard to turn... I took it back apart and didn't notice anything out of place... so, I guess when it breaks, I'll figure out then what it was.

As for your Axial 28... I may install mine and just run it as hard as I can as long as I can since it runs so poorly and gives no more power than my OS21RG. I did find info about that carb that it may be leaking air around the case of the carb itself. So, I'm thinking about cleaning the carb really well and sealing all the seams where composite meets the steel inserts. Regardless, if I do install it, I won't care how hot it gets as long as it doesn't fry plugs and stays running...

 

[bnrpat09]

hahaha, it sounds like a good plan, hey are you sure you put your front diff in, in the opposite direction of the rear cause that would sure as heck make it lock and make it difficult to turn...

as for the rounded curves i assume that is just wear and tear, from the three engines? you had.

also ya your carb may be leaking at the o ring, because you had to take it off and flip it around to make it compatible with your truck? correct? and poosibly didnt tighten it down good enough or seal it back down good enough.

hehehe the little mistakes!

ya when i flipped mine around i just pushed down on the carb real hard so it was tightened down on the o ring good...

also my engine is running fine without one. but which carb insert did you use???

also on your axial just rebuild the thing if it runs bad because the axial rebuild are very decently priced and also try idling yours three tanks instead of two.

thats what i did and it runs like a champ...
also one more question did yours get stuck at TDC at all during break in?

 

[olds97_lss]

No, I got the diffs in the right direction, or it wouldn't roll at all.

As for the axial, I sealed the carbneck, banjo fitting and backplate with RTV to avoid leaks. I didn't idle any tanks through mine. I always break-in by running gently to get the temps up and do cool down cycles every 100cc's or so with the piston at BDC. The internals of the engine still are shiny like new. Even the piston top! I didn't run a carb insert, didn't realize they were in the box until later. It didn't gets stuck at TDC any more than any other engine. I backed off the GP about 1/2 turn to release compression for the first few starts, then tightened it back down once running.

I'm sure I'll give it a try again this season... although, with my work schedule, it may waste what little time I have these days to run the dumb thing and get annoyed at it.

The "3 engines" were all just to get a feel for the engine in the truck (actually 5 engines). The only ones that spent any real time in the truck were the stock engine, the LRP and the OS in the winter. I ran about 4 gallons through the stock engine, around 4 gallons through the LRP and maybe a half gallon through the OS this winter. The OS is an engine I don't really care about and it's reliable. Low on ponies, high on reliability. Which makes it a good winter engine. Too much power in the cold just causes more stuff to get broken and is usually wasted on poor traction anyway.