Bling-A-Thon (Project "Super"maxx)

[Lessen]

Well, the whole point of using fabric was so it wouldn't be fixed in place, unlike the real Superman truck. I want it to flap around. You know, kinda like those ears of yours.

 

[Rolex]

How about I fiber glass your cheek to my rear bumper and take a ride up I-40? Then we'll see what starts flapping.

 

[Lessen]

Testy today are we?

You must just be upset you're not a Short Course Guru yet. Patience sir, with enough spamming you'll get there.

 

[Lessen]

I need opinions fellas.

Chrome: Definitely the grill and tool box. I'm torn between doing the window moldings chrome or dark dark grey (the 51 on the roof will also be very dark grey). As you can see from the Superman pic previously posted the cab area of the body is black.

 

[Rolex]

I would go with a very dark custom metallic charcoal gray around the windows, since it will match the paint that will still be stuck to your cheek, once you finally shake loose.

 

[Racer 1966]

If it were me, I'd try an exact duplicate of the picture. No chrome anywhere.

 

[Lessen]

If it were me, I'd try an exact duplicate of the picture. No chrome anywhere.

I'm down with that... the only thing that bothers me is the fact that I'm running chrome wheels so I feel like the body needs some amount of chrome to tie it together. The grill and tool box are obvious choices. I'll stick with those and go dark around the windows. Thanks fellas!

 

[Racer 1966]

Chrome to go with the wheels, didn't think of that. I can see why you want the chrome grill and box now. :thumbup:

 

[Rolex]

There's NO such thing...
as too much bling.

 

[Lessen]

I got the cape cutout. I need some of that fusible web stuff so I can make the S logo in the center of the cape.

You know it's funny. First I made a pink monster truck, now I'm sewing for another. You just never know what this hobby will bring.

 

[Rolex]

I'll give you a red S, AND a black eye. :eyepatch:

 

[Lessen]

Faster than a speeding all aluminum Savage

... and just because I like to do step-by-steps...

 

[Lessen]

After number, window moldings and "S".

 

[Racer 1966]

Looking great! Are you using liquid mask?

 

[Lessen]

Thanks Randy! I'm spraying the blue b/g now. No, I decided not to use liquid mask for this project. I'm using Plasti-Dip this time around. I'm kind of back and forth with the masking medium. The thing I like about the Plasti-Dip is that it's much much harder to inadvertantly peel back something you don't want removed yet. It definitely bonds to the lexan much stronger than standard liquid mask. That said, removal is more difficult so I suppose it depends on preference. I have a feeling I'll opt for Plasti-Dip when I have intricate things to cut out so there is less chance of accidentally peeling off small areas when I'm removing others. Just my personal preference I suppose.

*edit*

I think this is turning out quite nice. I decided to go ahead and lighten up the blue I had. I was afraid that it might look a little too dark. I'm pretty happy with it at this point. I think it needs one more coat and I can go ahead and back the areas that need it.

 

[Rolex]

That's really looking great so far.

 

[Lessen]

I swear, my ability to gauge how heavy of a coat is heavy enough is horrible. I've always had problems in the past with spraying too heavy. I know this because of the flaking issues I've had. I got the first couple coats right this time because the paint didn't crack whatsoever when I started peeling plasti-dip off. As the mask stretched the paint just moved with it, no cracking or peeling up from the mask. That's good for durability. However, I don't think I sprayed the blue heavy enough overall because after I backed parts of it (around the script) I noticed there is somewhat of a faint "snowy" effect. I thought it was heavy enough overall. I did 4 coats and the last one was relatively substantial. Anyways, I may just be annoyed by the minor crap. I don't think it'll even be noticable in photo. I'm not thining too much, so that's ruled out. 1:1 with a solid color. At least it's not patchy. I've had issues before trying to do a large area with a medium tip/cone on my brush. That's a big no-no. I went with the large this time and that definitely helped with evenness. Since I went with a large tip and cone set I was very careful not to spray too heavy because obviously the paint doesn't atomize as small. Maybe that's why it looks kinda snowy. :shrug:

Anyways, just waiting for the backing around the script to dry real well so I can go ahead and shoot the brighter blue parts of the script. After that, a little backing and it'll be ready for the final color - yellow. Then it's a good backing and sticker time

 

[Rolex]

The bottom line secret to an even coat, before backing it or going to the next color, is to hold it up to a fluorescent light to find the thin spots.

 

[Lessen]

A flourescent light eh? I always look through to natural light just because I work in front of a window. Why the flourescent light?

Taking a break from body work for now. We're going to see fireworks tonight. Paintwork is nearly finished. I'll have that much done tonight. The cape is probably gonna take me a little more time as I havn't used a sewing machine since 7th grade home ecc.

 

[Rolex]

When was the last time you sewed a cape for yourself?

I use a fluorescent light since all my painting ends up being done after dark.