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Best Radios for Nitro On-Road Touring Cars

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Mister 4x4

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So, I've been poking around the site and haven't really found anything similar to my thread title. I haven't done a ton of research [yet] on which modern TX/RX/Servos are 'the good stuff, yet affordable,' so I figured I'd poll the group.

Background: my Kyosho SuperTen GP has suffered a few catastrophic 'runaway' conditions, where the radio signal would be interrupted while the car was at WOT and just take off until 'something' stopped it (usually a parking lot curb) and the engine's metal bell crank would totally destroy the nylon 2-speed gears... which, 2-speeds for Kyosho SuperTens ain't cheap (last I saw was $250 - IF I can find one available). The radio in question was my trusty ol' Kraft/KO Propo AM 2-channel (mid-'80s - fine radio with lots of range... but I'm guessing the nitro engine vibrations interfered with the AM crystal reception). I could hold the car, run up the throttle, and observe the servos begin to twitch in the 7500-8500 rpm range, telling me it was time to retire the Kraft set-up. I have a Futaba Magnum Jr., but I believe it's AM as well, so I'd be looking to replace the radio altogether with a more modern set-up, but have multiple receivers & servo packages for my cars (4 in all, with a 5th soon to be on the way).

I'm thinking hard about picking up a Kyosho PureTen FW-06, since it's my SuperTen's "Mini-Me" version in 1/10 scale... the SuperTen is really more of a 1/9 scale and I don't really want to wear out my HPI SNRS4 or NRS4 cars, due to vintage parts availability). I found a reasonable source for Kyosho McLaren F1 GTR bodies, so I grabbed 2, as well as a more modern McLaren body (to bash) - the Blue/Black F1 will ride again soon! I'd considered a Kyosho V-One R4, but my HPIs are all belt drive, and I prefer the centralized shaft drive cars after being spoiled with the SuperTen (no picking rocks out of the beltways or diffs). Now, if I can just find the cool 'clipless' body mount pegs like the SuperTen had, that would be awesome!

So far, I've got a Futaba 3PRKA FHSS 2.4 GHz FHSS radio w/R203GF receiver picked out and am thinking about adding some Hi-Tec servos. https://www.amainhobbies.com/futaba...ystem-w-r203gf-receiver-fut01004363-3/p208945

I'm also intrigued by the Spektrum DX3 DSMR w/SR315 receiver: https://www.amainhobbies.com/futaba...ystem-w-r203gf-receiver-fut01004363-3/p208945 I like how it also has 'runaway' sensing protection.

I'm also not sure what accessories I'd need to get for the total electronics package (battery pack, switch, et al) since most of the older radios came with AAx4 battery packs, and the cars typically came with on-board switches. I'm not afraid to stick with standard AA batteries, but if getting dedicated Li-Ion packs and a charger is best, I'm fine with that (since I need a couple of new ignitors w/chargers, anyway).

I'm thinking to keep the radio/receiver part of the package in the $100-150 range, then get some decent $50-75 servos.... see how they go, then start replacing some of the older radio gear in the HPIs and SuperTen.

So let's hear it: What radio, receiver, and servos do you like for your Nitro-powered cars.
 
You should really consider a radio with an LCD screen. Any radio without one is going to be fairly basic by comparison. You will have a much better experience with controls you can dial in on an LCD vs knobs and switches.

Radiomaster MT12
If you are good with logical problems at all (I am not the greatest), the Radiomaster MT12 is an amazing radio coming in at $130 or so. If you get the ELRS version, that technology has been proven to work with a 60 mile range in an RC aircraft, believe it or not. This radio just has a steep learning curve, but there are videos popping up for it all the time with tutorials on how to do some pretty crazy stuff. I won't go into much detail here, but I started a bit of a guide on it in here.

Some key features: it has a 60 model memory. Meaning you can have 60 receivers and you can save them in the radio to control up to 60 different RC's. So you can buy cheap Flysky receivers for example, and the MT12 will work with them (4in1 version only). You can buy the ELRS or the 4in1 version (but you can also buy external modules to have both versions in one radio). The 4in1 version will bind to nearly any receiver. No other radio I know of can do this. The ELRS version boasts some ridiculous specs, like latency speeds comparable or better than the highest end radios on the market. This requires the use of really nice Radiomaster ELRS receivers, but even they are dirt cheap.

Futaba 3PV
Then there is the Futaba 3PV. @DavidB1126 has one and can give you his thoughts on it. You can't really go wrong with Futaba, but the receivers for it are going to be much more expensive than most other radios.

Flysky
In your price range, the next best radio may be the Flysky GT5 or G7P. I have the GT5 and it's good for a budget radio. I have not heard much about the G7P, but it looks decent. The user interface is LCD, and is pretty basic, but easy to learn. Flysky has an even more budget friendly version in the FS-GT3B. At $35 or so, it is the best bang for the buck budget radio on the market.
 
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I love Futaba, but man, that 3PRKA is way overpriced. I wouldn't pay $20 for that one. I'd cough up a bit more money and get the 3PV if having your heart set on an entry level Futaba. I don't know what "bells and whistles" you are looking for. For me it's sub-trims, timers, thumb button, and servo speed adjustment that's on my "must have features" list. Your needs/wants may be different. Do some homework by comparing features of radios to what your needs are. For example: FlySky GT-5 and the Futaba 3PV have almost the same features/functions, but the cost of the radios is quite different. Is that extra cost for a Futaba equal better quality? Um, maybe/probably. I would like to think so.

Happy shopping.
 
No matter what set up you purchase, a $5 spring to return your throttle to 'idle stop' is worth the money and the time. 😉
Search 'throttle return spring'.

 
Thank you, Gentlemen! Lots to take in and consider - much appreciated, and exactly what I was looking for.

I'm not married to Futaba, it's just what I remember as the industry standard from 27 years ago when I ran through my last R/C car phase. TBH, the FlySky GT5 has me most intrigued now, although I have no idea what I would do with 6-channels! The Radiomaster looks intriguing, but I think it's probably more than I would ever use/need. I can see where the Futaba I picked would be considered overpriced, since it's fairly 'low-tech,' compared to the LCD units, but the 3PV is more radio than I think I need as well. Considering I could get the GT5 and enough receivers to cover ALL of my cars for the same price as the 3PV or Radiomaster, I think I'll be looking into the GT5. Thanks!

My needs are pretty basic:
  • Runaway detection/protection (I've had a few too many signal failures with older radio tech not to want this)
  • Snappy throttle & brake response (electrics have a slight here)
  • Steering curve adjustability (progressive rate: less in the middle, more on the outsides)
  • Multiple cars/same transmitter (I can only drive one at a time, after all - I don't have a problem switching between radios, but only having one really nice transmitter would be nice)
Beyond those things, I'm more of a hands-on driver, not used to being coddled with things like ABS, autodrag braking into corners (tried it once, didn't like it), traction control (what does that even mean, anyway - the radio can't actually do that... or at least so far as I know), but I can see getting a crawler at some point and making use of gyroscoping aids after I figure out what those even are.

After I learn the inertial and traction dynamics of my car, I tend to use the throttle (and 2-speed) to its fullest, going into corners hot and typically out-braking any competitors in the area, and take the outside line if needed (which scares the crap out of some people). Then I roll-on the throttle and set-up for the next turn or just hammer it in the long-runs. I've never intentionally drifted before, which is hard to do with a grippy AWD car, but recovering from a 'loose/oversteer' condition is easy for me. I'm not a professional by any means, but I'm definitely more aggressive and confident than most of my buddies when we'd get together on the weekends - they'd almost always back-out of a cornering conflict or just spin-out rather than stay in it and recover from 'getting loose.'

There's also no real R/C scene here in San Angelo - I don't even think there's a proper hobby shop here, so whatever 'racing' I'd be doing would be strictly recreational and against a few buddies (who don't even have cars - they'd have to borrow my vintage junk, which I admit I really don't want to put too much into harms' way). I'm hoping maybe get a small group going again. The only current and operational R/C entity is Angelo R/C, and they are pretty much just airplanes. I remember putting my SuperTen down against some other racers one day, and that was a disaster. First of all, they were all kids and running buggies/truggies, and had no idea how to drive their cars on a track... which Second, was bordered with 2x4s (which said kids used to help them 'turn'), and finally having to trail and figure out how to cleanly pass the exposed wheels while challenging, was totally annoying when they're all over the track and crashing each other out more than anything. I like using garden hoses, plow discs, cones, and lengths of plastic rain gutter as track borders, usually no more than 10 feet apart for the 'track.' The one guy I had fun racing against had an RC-10 pan car, and the hobby shop owner actually kicked everybody off the track for a couple of heats so he and I could actually 'race.' He was WAY better than I was, but we had a blast without having to deal with all the kids. I think I only took one or two races out of 7 or 8 from him, but was still one of the best times I had racing someone I didn't really know. He actually joined us a few times after that, but then we lost track of him, and nobody had cell phones or social media back then.

Anyway - thanks a ton, guys. I've got some more reading to do, but I think I'll lean toward the GT5.
 
Thank you, Gentlemen! Lots to take in and consider - much appreciated, and exactly what I was looking for.

I'm not married to Futaba, it's just what I remember as the industry standard from 27 years ago when I ran through my last R/C car phase. TBH, the FlySky GT5 has me most intrigued now, although I have no idea what I would do with 6-channels! The Radiomaster looks intriguing, but I think it's probably more than I would ever use/need. I can see where the Futaba I picked would be considered overpriced, since it's fairly 'low-tech,' compared to the LCD units, but the 3PV is more radio than I think I need as well. Considering I could get the GT5 and enough receivers to cover ALL of my cars for the same price as the 3PV or Radiomaster, I think I'll be looking into the GT5. Thanks!

My needs are pretty basic:
  • Runaway detection/protection (I've had a few too many signal failures with older radio tech not to want this)
  • Snappy throttle & brake response (electrics have a slight here)
  • Steering curve adjustability (progressive rate: less in the middle, more on the outsides)
  • Multiple cars/same transmitter (I can only drive one at a time, after all - I don't have a problem switching between radios, but only having one really nice transmitter would be nice)
Beyond those things, I'm more of a hands-on driver, not used to being coddled with things like ABS, autodrag braking into corners (tried it once, didn't like it), traction control (what does that even mean, anyway - the radio can't actually do that... or at least so far as I know), but I can see getting a crawler at some point and making use of gyroscoping aids after I figure out what those even are.

After I learn the inertial and traction dynamics of my car, I tend to use the throttle (and 2-speed) to its fullest, going into corners hot and typically out-braking any competitors in the area, and take the outside line if needed (which scares the crap out of some people). Then I roll-on the throttle and set-up for the next turn or just hammer it in the long-runs. I've never intentionally drifted before, which is hard to do with a grippy AWD car, but recovering from a 'loose/oversteer' condition is easy for me. I'm not a professional by any means, but I'm definitely more aggressive and confident than most of my buddies when we'd get together on the weekends - they'd almost always back-out of a cornering conflict or just spin-out rather than stay in it and recover from 'getting loose.'

There's also no real R/C scene here in San Angelo - I don't even think there's a proper hobby shop here, so whatever 'racing' I'd be doing would be strictly recreational and against a few buddies (who don't even have cars - they'd have to borrow my vintage junk, which I admit I really don't want to put too much into harms' way). I'm hoping maybe get a small group going again. The only current and operational R/C entity is Angelo R/C, and they are pretty much just airplanes. I remember putting my SuperTen down against some other racers one day, and that was a disaster. First of all, they were all kids and running buggies/truggies, and had no idea how to drive their cars on a track... which Second, was bordered with 2x4s (which said kids used to help them 'turn'), and finally having to trail and figure out how to cleanly pass the exposed wheels while challenging, was totally annoying when they're all over the track and crashing each other out more than anything. I like using garden hoses, plow discs, cones, and lengths of plastic rain gutter as track borders, usually no more than 10 feet apart for the 'track.' The one guy I had fun racing against had an RC-10 pan car, and the hobby shop owner actually kicked everybody off the track for a couple of heats so he and I could actually 'race.' He was WAY better than I was, but we had a blast without having to deal with all the kids. I think I only took one or two races out of 7 or 8 from him, but was still one of the best times I had racing someone I didn't really know. He actually joined us a few times after that, but then we lost track of him, and nobody had cell phones or social media back then.

Anyway - thanks a ton, guys. I've got some more reading to do, but I think I'll lean toward the GT5.
Dont rule out the Noble NB4 + its an awesome radio .... and also there use to be a piece made by venom rc that was a run away device .... it was plugged into the receiver and the throttle servo was plugged into it ... at any moment the receiver twitched or lost signal or even receiver battery got low ... it caused the servo to apply brakes and not allow it to move until the issue was fixed ... i will see if i can't dig one out for online .....

Now there is a RC crowd in SA ...... Look up STX raceway .... they have an offroad and oval track out at the paintball course out by the lake/ airport ..... the are on Facebook as well .... a really nice club that holds races at least twice a month .... no touring car though .... only off-road and dirt oval ....

and here ya go

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2766985109...KOU9FGuXfXfALawudwoZX2HUS5uhdyeXLU2euek&gQT=2

Screenshot 2025-01-02 230843.webp
 
Thank you, Gentlemen! Lots to take in and consider - much appreciated, and exactly what I was looking for.

I'm not married to Futaba, it's just what I remember as the industry standard from 27 years ago when I ran through my last R/C car phase. TBH, the FlySky GT5 has me most intrigued now, although I have no idea what I would do with 6-channels! The Radiomaster looks intriguing, but I think it's probably more than I would ever use/need. I can see where the Futaba I picked would be considered overpriced, since it's fairly 'low-tech,' compared to the LCD units, but the 3PV is more radio than I think I need as well. Considering I could get the GT5 and enough receivers to cover ALL of my cars for the same price as the 3PV or Radiomaster, I think I'll be looking into the GT5. Thanks!

My needs are pretty basic:
  • Runaway detection/protection (I've had a few too many signal failures with older radio tech not to want this)
  • Snappy throttle & brake response (electrics have a slight here)
  • Steering curve adjustability (progressive rate: less in the middle, more on the outsides)
  • Multiple cars/same transmitter (I can only drive one at a time, after all - I don't have a problem switching between radios, but only having one really nice transmitter would be nice)
Beyond those things, I'm more of a hands-on driver, not used to being coddled with things like ABS, autodrag braking into corners (tried it once, didn't like it), traction control (what does that even mean, anyway - the radio can't actually do that... or at least so far as I know), but I can see getting a crawler at some point and making use of gyroscoping aids after I figure out what those even are.

After I learn the inertial and traction dynamics of my car, I tend to use the throttle (and 2-speed) to its fullest, going into corners hot and typically out-braking any competitors in the area, and take the outside line if needed (which scares the crap out of some people). Then I roll-on the throttle and set-up for the next turn or just hammer it in the long-runs. I've never intentionally drifted before, which is hard to do with a grippy AWD car, but recovering from a 'loose/oversteer' condition is easy for me. I'm not a professional by any means, but I'm definitely more aggressive and confident than most of my buddies when we'd get together on the weekends - they'd almost always back-out of a cornering conflict or just spin-out rather than stay in it and recover from 'getting loose.'

There's also no real R/C scene here in San Angelo - I don't even think there's a proper hobby shop here, so whatever 'racing' I'd be doing would be strictly recreational and against a few buddies (who don't even have cars - they'd have to borrow my vintage junk, which I admit I really don't want to put too much into harms' way). I'm hoping maybe get a small group going again. The only current and operational R/C entity is Angelo R/C, and they are pretty much just airplanes. I remember putting my SuperTen down against some other racers one day, and that was a disaster. First of all, they were all kids and running buggies/truggies, and had no idea how to drive their cars on a track... which Second, was bordered with 2x4s (which said kids used to help them 'turn'), and finally having to trail and figure out how to cleanly pass the exposed wheels while challenging, was totally annoying when they're all over the track and crashing each other out more than anything. I like using garden hoses, plow discs, cones, and lengths of plastic rain gutter as track borders, usually no more than 10 feet apart for the 'track.' The one guy I had fun racing against had an RC-10 pan car, and the hobby shop owner actually kicked everybody off the track for a couple of heats so he and I could actually 'race.' He was WAY better than I was, but we had a blast without having to deal with all the kids. I think I only took one or two races out of 7 or 8 from him, but was still one of the best times I had racing someone I didn't really know. He actually joined us a few times after that, but then we lost track of him, and nobody had cell phones or social media back then.

Anyway - thanks a ton, guys. I've got some more reading to do, but I think I'll lean toward the GT5.
Sounds like the area could use an organized r/c club!
Maybe some novice races to get ppl interested and not break the bank?
Sounds like fun!👍
 
I agree, but I don't have the time, energy, or appetite to start one up. If I were to join a local R/C club (if there is one, and I've been looking), I'm sure I'd be in the minority, with everybody running pan cars (indoors), Crawlers or Truggies/Buggies. Being an on-road [wannabe] racer has its challenges, but being a nitro guy kind of shuts me out of most sponsored events since they're typically held indoors on carpet - if you're not running an electric pan car, you also might get the stink eye.

Then there's my weird obsession with wanting to make things better, like when I took over the rinky-dink website and newsletter for the Concho 4 Wheelers back in the '90s (before social media and rampant texting) - I made those things super-nice, tossed in some extra content (cheap tricks & tips, Rig of the Month, a wall calendar page with some trail shots, etc.), and begged for input from the club members - crickets. I never even charged them for things like Domain Name Registry fees, Dynamic DNS services, webhosting (I had my own webserver and static IP at the time), paper and postage for the newsletter, et al - I was just happy to help... they did waive my $5 monthly 'dues,' however. Then b!tching began that the site was 'interactive' enough (I'd set up a forums and a universal blog page by then that anybody could post to), and the newsletter had pretty much become 'Eric's Newsletter to the Concho 4 Wheelers.' At the last meeting I went to, and heard one of the biggest a-holes of the group complaining about those things, I decided I was done, and uploaded the site to a state off-road association server, burned the whole thing onto a DVD, then handed it to the defacto president at the next meeting. He actually had the nerve to ask me what I was going to do with my Jeep now that I'm quitting the club. I said, "Dude - I've had my Jeep longer than you guys have been 'a club.' What makes you think not hanging out with you a-holes would make me want to give up my Jeep?" Then I joined the San Angelo Community Band and have been much happier ever since. I still see some of the [cool] C4W guys here and there and we catch up, but I've been just as happy not seeing the other jerks.

But I digress - that's just my experience with joining a local club with a bunch of egotistical redneck man-children.

I'm still poking around, and if push came to shove about having to field an electric TC or pan car so I could run the indoor tracks with those guys, so be it. Nothing says I can't still practice with and enjoy my smokers. Might even convert a few to the dark side as well... who knows?
 
I agree, but I don't have the time, energy, or appetite to start one up. If I were to join a local R/C club (if there is one, and I've been looking), I'm sure I'd be in the minority, with everybody running pan cars (indoors), Crawlers or Truggies/Buggies. Being an on-road [wannabe] racer has its challenges, but being a nitro guy kind of shuts me out of most sponsored events since they're typically held indoors on carpet - if you're not running an electric pan car, you also might get the stink eye.

Then there's my weird obsession with wanting to make things better, like when I took over the rinky-dink website and newsletter for the Concho 4 Wheelers back in the '90s (before social media and rampant texting) - I made those things super-nice, tossed in some extra content (cheap tricks & tips, Rig of the Month, a wall calendar page with some trail shots, etc.), and begged for input from the club members - crickets. I never even charged them for things like Domain Name Registry fees, Dynamic DNS services, webhosting (I had my own webserver and static IP at the time), paper and postage for the newsletter, et al - I was just happy to help... they did waive my $5 monthly 'dues,' however. Then b!tching began that the site was 'interactive' enough (I'd set up a forums and a universal blog page by then that anybody could post to), and the newsletter had pretty much become 'Eric's Newsletter to the Concho 4 Wheelers.' At the last meeting I went to, and heard one of the biggest a-holes of the group complaining about those things, I decided I was done, and uploaded the site to a state off-road association server, burned the whole thing onto a DVD, then handed it to the defacto president at the next meeting. He actually had the nerve to ask me what I was going to do with my Jeep now that I'm quitting the club. I said, "Dude - I've had my Jeep longer than you guys have been 'a club.' What makes you think not hanging out with you a-holes would make me want to give up my Jeep?" Then I joined the San Angelo Community Band and have been much happier ever since. I still see some of the [cool] C4W guys here and there and we catch up, but I've been just as happy not seeing the other jerks.

But I digress - that's just my experience with joining a local club with a bunch of egotistical redneck man-children.

I'm still poking around, and if push came to shove about having to field an electric TC or pan car so I could run the indoor tracks with those guys, so be it. Nothing says I can't still practice with and enjoy my smokers. Might even convert a few to the dark side as well... who knows?
I'm not a 'group' or ppl person either really.
I have been racing r/c, 1:1, car audio, trucks, Harley shows.. lots of good ppl AND Aholes too!
I met OCC guys in Laconia before they were on tv... they were nice guys there... ever watch the show tho??? 🤣
Racing brings out the competitive drive in us so we act that way on the stand...
In the pits though, most ppl WANT to help you. They are ALL there to race.
If you have the only running car at the race, its not much fun to leave with the 1st place trophy, right? May as well have won it in your driveway!
You need to show up. 😎
Bring your car and be open to what the other ppl are doing too.
I assure you, no one HATES your nitro car even if its not the right car for an indoor carpet track.
I'd bet there are at least a few other ppl there who own nitro too... and THAT is how it starts.
A few ppl get together outdoors for nitro running WITH electrics and in a few weeks you get spectators and THEY want nitro too... sometimes its up to us 'to get the ball rolling'.

There will be aholes at every event and ppl who want to see you fail just because thats who they are.
You don't necessarily need to be the sole organizer of this thing but it sounds like you are gifted in that way. Maybe its worth another go at it?

A common interest in racing r/c might just beat out the egos of who is fastest, prettiest or most expensive. In racing, talk is cheap and any racer worth his salt knows this.
Bragging rights end precisely at the start of next week's race. 😉
The environment is nonexistent right now so it will be whatever you make it to be. Make it a pleasant and inviting one.
Def a 'build it and they will come' mentality here but I bet you could work it out if interested. 👍

I have 2 local tracks... both an hour away. I plan to build a car or 3 and just start showing up... doing exactly the same thing I told you to do.
I have a modern B6.3 to run 2wd but my heart is in 4x4.
I'll be there with 30 year old Kyosho's that prob will not win anything, competing against modern buggies.
I'll bet there will be ppl heckling etc too...
I'm racing MY car for ME... Not caring what other ppl think.
The win will only be sweeter when I finally make it to 1st place!

If your heart is in it, make it happen. 😉👍

Now, can you explain to me why all these Jeep guys spend so much time and money on shiny paint and chrome just so it can get torn off on the trail??? 🤔🤣
 
Now there is a RC crowd in SA ...... Look up STX raceway .... they have an offroad and oval track out at the paintball course out by the lake/ airport ..... the are on Facebook as well .... a really nice club that holds races at least twice a month .... no touring car though .... only off-road and dirt oval
Thanks for that - I hadn't run across that page yet. Interestingly enough, I was friends with the guy who started up Angelo Paintball (a guy named Steve who owned a local car audio shop and branched out to paintball back in the mid-'90s). I've played paintball there a few times, but that was over 20 years ago, and I'm a little surprised they're still open, TBH.

Mike - Appreciate the wisdom! I'm just hoping my 30-yr-old NitroHawk is up to the task. It was my pal Jeff's beater, which he did wind up hopping up a bit - the TRX .15 is nowhere near 'tired' yet, and with the header/stinger exhaust, sound mean as Hell (think of a rabid mini-chainsaw). I just ordered the FlySky 5GT radio and some receivers, if nothing more than to get my electronics up to snuff to prevent runaways on all my cars (ahem - SuperTen's lost it more than once at WOT, found the parking lot curbs and tore up 2 2-speeds worth of nylon gears).

I don't think the Jeep guys go out there 'intending' to tear things up (well, some of them might), but when they gain more confidence and start running up the metal masher trails, someone usually winds up getting 'clearanced,' and then it's time to bust out the Sawzall to make sure they can get up that trail the next time out. Me - I love my Jeep and am too chicken to bash it like some of those guys do (or maybe just more practical). It was a daily driver for awhile, and even when it was finally relegated to weekend toy, I still took care of it like I 'needed it' for daily driving, more often than not avoiding the technical stuff and wound up taking pictures of the other guys for the website & newsletter. I guess that made me less of a 'wheeler in their eyes, but I never needed a strap or trailer to get home after a run. I ran into one of the guys' Jeeps at the local 4x4 shop (getting repaired yet again), and it was almost unrecognizable - it had been sliced and diced so much over the years there's hardly any yellow sheet metal left from the hood down. I just shook my head and laughed - at least Ken's been having fun with it.


Looks like I'll need to clean-up my NitroHawk and get him back to race-ready. Maybe I'll Frankenstein a spare .12 OS-MAX "Red Head" into my old Kyosho Pegasus and blow everybody's minds. LOL!!
 
@Mister 4x4 , you said you mainly use 2 speeds right? How do you like to switch between speeds? Any certain area you like for the switch or button? Just wanted to bring that up since I believe both the FS GT5 and Radiomaster MT12 have "thumb buttons" or buttons on the handle/grip which I feel like would be the best spot to switch gears so your not taking your hand off the wheel or trigger to switch. (I have no experience with nitro or 2 speeds so I might be totally wrong here). But with the 3PV, I use it in my Rustler (electric stadium truck) and it has very responsive throttle/brakes. Usual settings like D/R, EPA, Trims, Sub trims, Throttle and steering expos. Range wise they state around 260 ft. I never had a signal drop or cut out. (unlike my previous tested radiolink radios which are trash, that's how I got more into radio technology) Failsafe, although I haven't tested or had any signal issues, it should be trusty. Like @WickedFog mentioned, the price of the receivers are pretty crazy. 70 bucks a pop. But you can get used receivers for cheaper. I believe radiomaster rx's are around 10 to 30 bucks? and Flysky receivers for the GT5 are around 20 bucks. Also, forgot to put this in here, the 3PV does not have a thumb or handle/grip button near the trigger. Has 3 toggle switches near the wheel for trims and 1 CH3 switch.

For @jimdavis577 reply about the NB4 from Flysky, highly agree with that option. Have one myself (NB4+) and I love it. It's basically like a higher end futaba or sanwa but more practical for half the price. Not to mention receivers are small, antennaless and only around 30-40 bucks. Futaba and Sanwa antennaless receivers go for more than 100 bucks. Range on the NB4 I tested that the radio safely cuts the signal out for safety reasons at signal strengh 30, at around 500 feet with no issues. Great radio.

Back with the radiomaster mt12, its another great radio but lots to learn about it, you can do very long range running with the ELRS, or with the 4in1 you can bind up to basically every popular receiver brand and protocol out there (well in modern 2.4Ghz stuff). All the radios mentioned are pretty good, just depends what you're looking for and price/budget.

Edit: With the 3PV, most people say that going through the setting menus is hard for them and outdated, but I use it with no issues. It just takes a few seconds to get to the setting you want to adjust

David's new Futaba 3PV
David's new FlySky NB4+
 
Thanks for that - I hadn't run across that page yet. Interestingly enough, I was friends with the guy who started up Angelo Paintball (a guy named Steve who owned a local car audio shop and branched out to paintball back in the mid-'90s). I've played paintball there a few times, but that was over 20 years ago, and I'm a little surprised they're still open, TBH.

Mike - Appreciate the wisdom! I'm just hoping my 30-yr-old NitroHawk is up to the task. It was my pal Jeff's beater, which he did wind up hopping up a bit - the TRX .15 is nowhere near 'tired' yet, and with the header/stinger exhaust, sound mean as Hell (think of a rabid mini-chainsaw). I just ordered the FlySky 5GT radio and some receivers, if nothing more than to get my electronics up to snuff to prevent runaways on all my cars (ahem - SuperTen's lost it more than once at WOT, found the parking lot curbs and tore up 2 2-speeds worth of nylon gears).

I don't think the Jeep guys go out there 'intending' to tear things up (well, some of them might), but when they gain more confidence and start running up the metal masher trails, someone usually winds up getting 'clearanced,' and then it's time to bust out the Sawzall to make sure they can get up that trail the next time out. Me - I love my Jeep and am too chicken to bash it like some of those guys do (or maybe just more practical). It was a daily driver for awhile, and even when it was finally relegated to weekend toy, I still took care of it like I 'needed it' for daily driving, more often than not avoiding the technical stuff and wound up taking pictures of the other guys for the website & newsletter. I guess that made me less of a 'wheeler in their eyes, but I never needed a strap or trailer to get home after a run. I ran into one of the guys' Jeeps at the local 4x4 shop (getting repaired yet again), and it was almost unrecognizable - it had been sliced and diced so much over the years there's hardly any yellow sheet metal left from the hood down. I just shook my head and laughed - at least Ken's been having fun with it.


Looks like I'll need to clean-up my NitroHawk and get him back to race-ready. Maybe I'll Frankenstein a spare .12 OS-MAX "Red Head" into my old Kyosho Pegasus and blow everybody's minds. LOL!!
Lol! Sort of teasing about the jeep thing.
I have put about a week into derusting and painting a 14 bolt axle to go UNDER my Envoy where no one SHOULD ever see it! 🤣
No fear of taking the paint off this one! 😂

I used to race years ago. I figured I'd like to get back to it too.
My car was fast back then. I don't think it got slower with age like I have! 🤣
I plan to have fun. No interest in trying for a national sponsership with Team Whoever... Racing for me.👍
(and maybe for a kiss on the cheek from the cute trophy girls😉)
They have those, right? 🤔😍🤩
I'm going to get an Associated B6.3 to the track because its already build excepting electronics.
My goal though, is to get my old Optima Mid back on the track. Its going more slowly than I'd hoped tho.
That Pegusus might be worth a resto too.😎
 
@Mister 4x4 , you said you mainly use 2 speeds right? How do you like to switch between speeds? Any certain area you like for the switch or button? Just wanted to bring that up since I believe both the FS GT5 and Radiomaster MT12 have "thumb buttons" or buttons on the handle/grip which I feel like would be the best spot to switch gears so your not taking your hand off the wheel or trigger to switch. (I have no experience with nitro or 2 speeds so I might be totally wrong here). But with the 3PV, I use it in my Rustler (electric stadium truck) and it has very responsive throttle/brakes. Usual settings like D/R, EPA, Trims, Sub trims, Throttle and steering expos. Range wise they state around 260 ft. I never had a signal drop or cut out. (unlike my previous tested radiolink radios which are trash, that's how I got more into radio technology) Failsafe, although I haven't tested or had any signal issues, it should be trusty. Like @WickedFog mentioned, the price of the receivers are pretty crazy. 70 bucks a pop. But you can get used receivers for cheaper. I believe radiomaster rx's are around 10 to 30 bucks? and Flysky receivers for the GT5 are around 20 bucks. Also, forgot to put this in here, the 3PV does not have a thumb or handle/grip button near the trigger. Has 3 toggle switches near the wheel for trims and 1 CH3 switch.

For @jimdavis577 reply about the NB4 from Flysky, highly agree with that option. Have one myself (NB4+) and I love it. It's basically like a higher end futaba or sanwa but more practical for half the price. Not to mention receivers are small, antennaless and only around 30-40 bucks. Futaba and Sanwa antennaless receivers go for more than 100 bucks. Range on the NB4 I tested that the radio safely cuts the signal out for safety reasons at signal strengh 30, at around 500 feet with no issues. Great radio.

Back with the radiomaster mt12, its another great radio but lots to learn about it, you can do very long range running with the ELRS, or with the 4in1 you can bind up to basically every popular receiver brand and protocol out there (well in modern 2.4Ghz stuff). All the radios mentioned are pretty good, just depends what you're looking for and price/budget.

Edit: With the 3PV, most people say that going through the setting menus is hard for them and outdated, but I use it with no issues. It just takes a few seconds to get to the setting you want to adjust

David's new Futaba 3PV
David's new FlySky NB4+
i agree and for anyone who is still a doubter or a negative nancy and saying the NB4 isnt a race radio... well phenom Phend .... and Ryan mayfield are both running them in 2025 !!!! so those people can stick that in their pipe and smoke it lmao
 
Hey Dave, the 2-speeds are triggered by rpm and centrifugal force. When the engine runs up to a certain rpm (adjustable spring-loaded clutch arm), the clutch arm swings out and locks the outer spur gear, which effectively 'grabs second.' Let off the throttle and the clutch arm retracts when the rpms come back down to 1st gear ranges.

There's no 'manually triggering' it, unfortunately. Thanks for the thought, though.

Hey Mike, your 14-bolt project sounds a lot like when I swapped my Jeep's NarrowTracs for WideTracs. I got those axles lookin' purdy just to shove in under a nasty ol' mud-slingin' Jeep. LOL!
widetrac2.webp
 
Hey Dave, the 2-speeds are triggered by rpm and centrifugal force. When the engine runs up to a certain rpm (adjustable spring-loaded clutch arm), the clutch arm swings out and locks the outer spur gear, which effectively 'grabs second.' Let off the throttle and the clutch arm retracts when the rpms come back down to 1st gear ranges.

There's no 'manually triggering' it, unfortunately. Thanks for the thought, though.
Ah ok, now I see ;)
So yea for radios, Futaba is fine, but the 3PV is subpar with the GT5. Ideally its personal preference if you want to go with any of the radios listed. All of them are great.
 
Hey Dave, the 2-speeds are triggered by rpm and centrifugal force. When the engine runs up to a certain rpm (adjustable spring-loaded clutch arm), the clutch arm swings out and locks the outer spur gear, which effectively 'grabs second.' Let off the throttle and the clutch arm retracts when the rpms come back down to 1st gear ranges.

There's no 'manually triggering' it, unfortunately. Thanks for the thought, though.

Hey Mike, your 14-bolt project sounds a lot like when I swapped my Jeep's NarrowTracs for WideTracs. I got those axles lookin' purdy just to shove in under a nasty ol' mud-slingin' Jeep. LOL!
View attachment 213886
Dave was referring to what is typically channel 3 on a surface transmitter. At least the radios I have used. It is indeed intended to be a gear selector for most folks, but for electric RC crawlers and such that are shifted with a servo. Or some people use that swtch to control their winch.
 
I think that's more of a Hi-Low range selector, kinda like the transfer case on a 4x4. I know my buddy Harry has one of those Nylint Jeep Wrangler crawlers (from 15 years ago) and you could switch between Hi-Low, but you'd have to bring it in and flip the switch manually.

IIRC, the 2-speeds on electric road cars work the same as they do on nitro cars. It literally sounds like when a race bike is speed shifting, but only just to the 2nd gears. Except for the electric cars of course. They just sound like the sewing machine's going into overdrive. LOL!! My buddy Lewis had one of his Yokomo YR4 - he just had to have one after I got mine for the SuperTen.
 
I think that's more of a Hi-Low range selector, kinda like the transfer case on a 4x4. I know my buddy Harry has one of those Nylint Jeep Wrangler crawlers (from 15 years ago) and you could switch between Hi-Low, but you'd have to bring it in and flip the switch manually.

IIRC, the 2-speeds on electric road cars work the same as they do on nitro cars. It literally sounds like when a race bike is speed shifting, but only just to the 2nd gears. Except for the electric cars of course. They just sound like the sewing machine's going into overdrive. LOL!! My buddy Lewis had one of his Yokomo YR4 - he just had to have one after I got mine for the SuperTen.
I've never heard of such witchcraft on a hobby grade electric RC basher. Unless I am misunderstanding you. Arrma stuff however has a limit switch for 50%, 75%, and 100% power. That is just a switch that changes the signal to or from the throttle potentiometer. You can setup higher end radios to use one of the switches to select between a few different throttle curves to achieve that same "effect". So yeah, if the radio has features to support it, the 3rd channel 3 position switch could be programmed to do that. But in the RC crawling world that I have limited knowledge of, the switch right by your thumb behind the trigger is typically the gear selector, or dig selector, or it is used for a winch for the scaler guys. You can use it for whatever of course, but the crawlers I have setup with 2-speed transmissions, that was the ideal spot for selecting low, neutral, and high gear.
 
i know back in the day ...... some nitros .... used the 3rd channel as a Foward/ Reverse shifter ..... i think mainly tashxx did this .... but i know there were a few others that offered a "shiftable" reverse ... as far a 2 speed trans .... that was normally done by a 2 gear pinon/ bell housing which was also the clutch ... then the spur gear was also a two gear .... where one was on a 1 way bearing .... so at slower speeds the lower ratio would drive the car .... at which point when the speed/ rpm got high enough .. and was spinning faster than the gear the second set of gears took over propelling the car and the first set would spin on the 1 way bearing .... causing it to freewheel until the speed came back down then it would start using 1st gear to drive again .... look at the old NTC3 by team associated .... its actually quite genius
 
Yes! ^^^^ This! That's how the old school 2-speeds work.

Hey Fog, I have no idea how that whole 3rd channel gear selector would even work, TBH. My stuff is old and I haven't really gotten caught up on the newer tech - especially, the crawlers.
 
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