Best new nitro rc under 350

[OBS4EVER]

The Slash I think is one of the best value for money nitros out there. Its a great car, the 3.3 carries that light chassis so well, and it does not wheelie all the time like the rustler, def one of my favorite nitro cars, I just need to replace that carb with something better.

I guess it all comes down to what type of car do you want, a short course truck that can handle offroad and onroad or a buggie like the NEO, which I believe is mainly for running on dirt.

I own a number of on road Kyoshos such as FW05 and FW06 (still in production today), and their engines are absolutely amazing in terms of being easy to tune and they just run and idle beautifully.

Thanks. Would the kyosho do fine on grass.

 

[EJMOPAR70]

Hello everyone. Saw this thread and wanted to know if anyone knew. Does the Nitro Rustler or Nitro Slash have a FAIL SAFE?
Thanks

 

[OBS4EVER]

Hello everyone. Saw this thread and wanted to know if anyone knew. Does the Nitro Rustler or Nitro Slash have a FAIL SAFE?
Thanks

I believe the TQI has a non-adjustable failsafe. It will return the throttle to neutral.

 

[gandalfnz]

Thanks. Would the kyosho do fine on grass.

Slash goes fine on small grass, so buggy would be the same.

 

[OBS4EVER]

What is the difference in runtime between the slash and rustler.

 

[tudordewolf]

What is the difference in runtime between the slash and rustler.

Slash has double the fuel tank at 150cc vs 75cc for the Rustler, but it is a bit heavier so it'll burn more fuel. The larger tank will more than make up for it though.

 

[gandalfnz]

What is the difference in runtime between the slash and rustler.

Fuel consumption difference would be negligible.
Slash is a very light car and 3.3 carries it with ease, as long as you don't rung it pig rich, a tank of fuel will last you a good while.

 

[OBS4EVER]

Any input on the neo or the bullet ( durability, reliability, parts support Ect...)

 

[EJMOPAR70]

Any input on the neo or the bullet ( durability, reliability, parts support Ect...)

I was a huge HPI fan in the early 2000. However I have the new Savage XL 5.9. Came with stripped screws. Had to shim transmission. And now disc brakes are touching clutchbell. And several others have same problem with new Savages.

If you want HPI buy used or later models. The Neo I have been looking at also. Kyosho has always been good.

 

[Chubaka]

I was a huge HPI fan in the early 2000. However I have the new Savage XL 5.9. Came with stripped screws. Had to shim transmission. And now disc brakes are touching clutchbell. And several others have same problem with new Savages.

If you want HPI buy used or later models. The Neo I have been looking at also. Kyosho has always been good.

That's a shame. My rs4s taught me to like hpi, and I wanted a Savvy.

 

[OBS4EVER]

I was a huge HPI fan in the early 2000. However I have the new Savage XL 5.9. Came with stripped screws. Had to shim transmission. And now disc brakes are touching clutchbell. And several others have same problem with new Savages.

If you want HPI buy used or later models. The Neo I have been looking at also. Kyosho has always been good.

I really like the neo for everything other than parts support and the price of those parts. Is there a good place to buy kyosho parts from.
I also saw the neo is now $419 most places.

 

[EJMOPAR70]

I really like the neo for everything other than parts support and the price of those parts. Is there a good place to buy kyosho parts from.
I also saw the neo is now $419 most places.

I shop primarily Amainhobbies

 

[Greywolf74]

Is there a good place to buy kyosho parts from?

https://kyoshoamerica.com/

 

[Sebkauff]

I really like the neo for everything other than parts support and the price of those parts. Is there a good place to buy kyosho parts from.
I also saw the neo is now $419 most places.

I have neo 3.0. It’s my first and only nitro and so far I haven’t had too many problems with it outside of normal Nitro learning stuff. Most parts on it are pretty durable. But I would highly recommend getting a steel spur gear, and some of the upgraded steering knuckles (or some spare stock ones which are a lot cheaper) I stripped out the plastic spur pretty fast but the steel one has been fine. And the stock knuckles are made out of “monkey metal” and break pretty easily. But if you’re not going to be doing any big jumps those should be the only issues. Oh and I’m not sure if you know this but it comes with Phillips head hardware, which could be good or bad depending on your preference. But overall I’d say it’s a very good first nitro, and should suit your nitro needs for quite a while

 

[OBS4EVER]

I have neo 3.0. It’s my first and only nitro and so far I haven’t had too many problems with it outside of normal Nitro learning stuff. Most parts on it are pretty durable. But I would highly recommend getting a steel spur gear, and some of the upgraded steering knuckles (or some spare stock ones which are a lot cheaper) I stripped out the plastic spur pretty fast but the steel one has been fine. And the stock knuckles are made out of “monkey metal” and break pretty easily. But if you’re not going to be doing any big jumps those should be the only issues. Oh and I’m not sure if you know this but it comes with Phillips head hardware, which could be good or bad depending on your preference. But overall I’d say it’s a very good first nitro, and should suit your nitro needs for quite a while

I like the neo a lot. It looks to be better built than the Traxxas nitro cars. I have heard of many people breaking pull starts on nitro cars that have them. Is this a common issue with pull starts or is this just people incorrectly using them.

 

[tudordewolf]

I like the neo a lot. It looks to be better built than the Traxxas nitro cars. I have heard of many people breaking pull starts on nitro cars that have them. Is this a common issue with pull starts or is this just people incorrectly using them.

I think it's just the dynamics of getting started with nitro that make people struggle with them a - a brand new engine is especially hard to start, so your first time may very well involve dozens of difficult pulls without it starting, maybe even breaking the string from being too rough or pulling it out too far. Once you've got it broken in, it should be nearly as easy to start as a lawnmower.

Pull starts are the most common option on RTR and entry-level-vehicles, so basically everyone's first experience starting a nitro engine is with a pull start, and then they upgrade to a roto-start, bump box, or electric starter, and only remember pull starts as the one that gave them a hard time. I've broken a few and replaced them, but only early in my nitro career, and they've lasted much longer since.

 

[OBS4EVER]

I think it's just the dynamics of getting started with nitro that make people struggle with them a - a brand new engine is especially hard to start, so your first time may very well involve dozens of difficult pulls without it starting, maybe even breaking the string from being too rough or pulling it out too far. Once you've got it broken in, it should be nearly as easy to start as a lawnmower.

Pull starts are the most common option on RTR and entry-level-vehicles, so basically everyone's first experience starting a nitro engine is with a pull start, and then they upgrade to a roto-start, bump box, or electric starter, and only remember pull starts as the one that gave them a hard time. I've broken a few and replaced them, but only early in my nitro career, and they've lasted much longer since.

Can you loosen the glow plug to lower compression so the first starts are easier?

 

[watertrucker]

I’ve never broken a pull start. You just have to be careful with them. Don’t yank on them like a lawn mower or weed eater. And if it suddenly gets much harder to pull , the engine is getting flooded with fuel. If you keep trying to pull it, it will break for sure. Take out the glow plug and turn engine over a few times to clear the flood.

 

[tudordewolf]

Can you loosen the glow plug to lower compression so the first starts are easier?

I've heard of people doing that, but I think it invites more problems than it solves. The resistance at first isn't from compression, but pinch being too tight before the engine is warmed up & broken in - the best thing you can do is preheat your engine before starting it, I use a battery-powered heat gun but there's more than one way to do it.

Also, I said as easy to start as a lawnmower, I just meant broadly in terms of difficulty; the physical motion for a nitro is very different - short, sudden pulls, not long ones.

 

[alfredwong2003]

I've heard of people doing that, but I think it invites more problems than it solves. The resistance at first isn't from compression, but pinch being too tight before the engine is warmed up & broken in - the best thing you can do is preheat your engine before starting it, I use a battery-powered heat gun but there's more than one way to do it.

Also, I said as easy to start as a lawnmower, I just meant broadly in terms of difficulty; the physical motion for a nitro is very different - short, sudden pulls, not long ones.

Pinch isn't really the issue, removing the glow plug should make it very easy to pull, so, it is the compression and hydro lock that usually make it hard to pull, so loosen the glow plug just a bit will help the start. Just don't forget to tighten it once it starts.