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have you thought about getting a truggy, there just as durable as a truck but faster. i got my mbx6 buggy for £200 with no engine or radio gear. putting it in inst as hard as it first seems I'm 12 and had no ploblem. i think you should consider one :) good luck
 
to: ReadyToRun none at all. as much as i like the ez-start system. it does have some things that could be better. the best thing you can do is set the battery to the side. and wire the hand wand to power off of your street truck battery. this set up may NOT be for everyone. cause you do have to be able to get your street truck close to you race/bashing place.
 
I was looking at a Losi 10T truggy and it seemed nice. But I'm not shure if i want to go with a savage or the 10T
 
I'm pretty new to the nitro as well, i came up with a team associated mgt with axial .28... and i do the same kinda driving you are talking about, general bashing and the occasional high speed run. i just got mine tuned and running today and put 4 tanks thru it and absolutly love it. i have a few traxxas electrics, 2 emaxx and 2 rustys... the mgt is by far a much beefier and more durable truck than a maxx... i hit a big dirt mound today doing prolly 10-15 mph and caught about 6-8 feet of air and landed perfectally about 12 feet away. seems like you have alot of choices at hand, truggy, buggy, or monster truck.

i do agree with the above said the maxx line is kinda weak for good hard bashing, a buddy broke a lower and upper a arm on my maxx and the truck didnt move 2 feet... he caught the end of a concrete parking stop... but the truck was just barley moving.

one thing you will thank your self later for is to go with a 1/8 over a 1/10, much more stable when bashing and jumping. and name brand is the only way to go.

I'm starting to ramble, good luck, have fun, and break stuff!!:hehe:
 
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I love the looks of the 10T but not a fan of R.O.S.S. so imma try to avoid that. I will definatly check out TA MGT, now that i think about it i dont want to spend so much on a truck because i need to have one first to see what i need/dont need
 
If you plan to do mudding a MT is the way to go. This is however the worst thing you can do to an r/c. Bearings fail really quick in wet conditions. If a diff or clutch bearing fails, it will almost instantly destroy gear sets. That can get expensive fast. If you just drive in the dirt you can dgo much longer between tear downs.
 
I wont really be mudding, i guess when i made the post i didnt realize how bad it would be for my truck. I'm feeling a truggy but so many choices, so many funds.
 
then think of ground clearance, truggies sit lower. In grass the drag more and run hotter. Also they are generally single speed.

Yes thats another point, Hey olds why dont you tell me about that Savage X 4.6. I would get the kit but i would make a video of me breaking it in and it would fall to pieces.. So i will go with the RTR.

Corrected that for you ;)

Thanks monsieur thanks a whole lott. Lol but correct with that post.
 
Yes thats another point, Hey olds why dont you tell me about that Savage X 4.6. I would get the kit but i would make a video of me breaking it in and it would fall to pieces.. So i will go with the RTR.



Thanks monsieur thanks a whole lott. Lol but correct with that post.

you wont be dissapointed with a savage.

 
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IMO A trugy is more fun than a monster truck for roosting around, jumping and such. They are 10X more stable than a monster truck. Monster trucks are prone to turtling, requiring you to run your ass off to flip it back over before the engine starves out of fuel. That gets old. They weigh 3lbs less on average and the drivetrain is simpler, lighter and also more durable. Ground clearance is really not much of an issue. except for places were you may get high centered. You can raise a truggy up pretty high and also use larger monster truck tires on them. Only thing a monster can do that a truggy can't is wheelie on demand. That's where the transmission vs. center differential comes into play. The key difference between the two.
 
Just letting you know the pros and cons...I have owned a bunch of monsters, 3 truggies and two buggies.
 
Yes thats another point, Hey olds why dont you tell me about that Savage X 4.6. I would get the kit but i would make a video of me breaking it in and it would fall to pieces.. So i will go with the RTR.



Thanks monsieur thanks a whole lott. Lol but correct with that post.

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE!! I bought an LRP truggy "RTR"... well so called RTR it had been built without threadlock! Me being a noob myself I didn't notice and there was no indication in the instructions that it needed to be done.... As a result the engine and all hell was let loose at the same time!! cost!! 250 bucks for a new engine (although it was a better competition replacement) So if you do go for an rtr... just remember to check!!

Also with regards to advice!! If you are looking for something to really give a bashing and not have to worry too much then definitely go with a savage!! Very durable and fast and fun!! A truggy is fun but if you wanna give it a hammering then a rtr is no good, you need to go with a kit!! The rtr's come with downgraded parts and you will just find that you end up buying all the extra's in the kit after you've broken the weaker parts in the rtr! And this is not a cheap process the suspension supports on my LRP were plastic and broke in no time on the jumps. When I went to replace them with the upgraded aluminium parts its cost me a nice 60 bucks a piece for front and back. Have some fun with a savage or a savage XL first.. then maybe start building your own truggy when you got a bit more money and experience!!

Hope you find this helpfull!!
 
VERY IMPORTANT NOTE!! I bought an LRP truggy "RTR"... well so called RTR it had been built without threadlock! Me being a noob myself I didn't notice and there was no indication in the instructions that it needed to be done.... As a result the engine and all hell was let loose at the same time!! cost!! 250 bucks for a new engine (although it was a better competition replacement) So if you do go for an rtr... just remember to check!!
heres what i see wrong with this post:
1. most instruction manuals tell you that you need to use threadlock on all scrws going into metal. (i know that associated does)
2. engine bolts comming lose should not cause you to lose an engine. yes your screws may have loosened up or fell out, but a blown up engine is caused by poor tuning, poor construction, or misuse/abuse.
3. RTRs ARE NORMALLY NEVER BUILT USING THREADLOCK
4. i dont and have never used threadlock on any of my screws (unless the threads are starting to wear) and i do not have any problems at all.
 
4. i dont and have never used threadlock on any of my screws (unless the threads are starting to wear) and i do not have any problems at all.

You're a VERY lucky person then.

I planED on putting thread lock but i dont know now.

Simple,just get some blue "service removable" thread locker, dab a little on the threads and install the screw. It just takes a little. Wait 12-24hrs before running and you're golden.
 
Alright thanks. I'm still working on getting an rc. just so many to choose!
 
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