Build Thread Barnfab Team Associated RC10 40th Anniversary Edition build thread. (WITH UPDATES)

[BarnFabRC]

This afternoon I was fooling around with component locations before I solder anything together. Trying to find a nice layout and keep the balance nice. This is what I came up with. Nothing is locked in yet. I also think I’m going to solder bullets somewhere in the length of the motor wires. For better serviceability. There’s also a screenshot of the corner weights in this current configuration with the body on. If anyone has any input, I’m all ears

 

[9x19]

Looks good.

If I build mine, I won't go back in time quite so far as you did... the piano wire servo linkage and all-thread steering links will be upgraded like I did way back when.

 

[BarnFabRC]

Looks good.

If I build mine, I won't go back in time quite so far as you did... the piano wire servo linkage and all-thread steering links will be upgraded like I did way back when.

The piano wire and steering stuff is all temporary. I’m just waiting for proper length Ti turnbuckles to come available. Going to use current metric ball studs and B6 cups for everything. I don’t think that stock stuff is going to last a whole race day.

 

[9x19]

The piano wire and steering stuff is all temporary. I’m just waiting for proper length Ti turnbuckles to come available. Going to use current metric ball studs and B6 cups for everything. I don’t think that stock stuff is going to last a whole race day.

Yeah the RC10 did have some weak spots, which even the cheaper models have eliminated these days.

I still have a set of blued steel RC10 turnbuckles in my parts bins, along with a few spare ball studs/cups - hoarder? who? Me?

 

[BarnFabRC]

Yeah the RC10 did have some weak spots, which even the cheaper models have eliminated these days.

I still have a set of blued steel RC10 turnbuckles in my parts bins, along with a few spare ball studs/cups - hoarder? who? Me?

Ooh that reminds me I have a bunch of links from my slash that might work. Gonna have to dig them out when I get a chance. They just use a 3mm cap screw. No ball stud.

 

[BarnFabRC]

I did a little more tinkering this afternoon. I’m pretty much settled on running the modern brushless gear so I started doing some of the soldering. (I have no patience and MUST BUILD if it’s not done) I’m pretty happy with the way the motor wires are laying up. The sensor wire might be good, but we’ll see if it picks up any interference tucked like that, I don’t think it’ll be an issue though. The only thing I’m not thrilled with is the way the motor is clocked. I wish it was 10° more vertical. The “C” post is really close to the rear skid plate. I’ll fool with that more another day.

Tried a different layout and got similar results on the scales too. I kinda like this one. I still have to get the battery tray from my folk’s place. So there won’t be a final decision until I mock that up.

Another thing that’s at their place is my DR10, I really want to see how its transmission compares in size to the 6 gear. My brain keeps telling me it’s just an adapted stealth transmission as most of AE’s stuff is. You can see direct design lineage from this car to the modern stuff. It’s just really hard to make the comparison from pictures on the internet.

Layout #2

Clean motor wiring:

And scales for this layout:

 

[BarnFabRC]

Made some moves today on the Gold Pan. This weekend they’re running a vintage class at Pit Stop. So even though I didn’t get to test fit the other battery tray I decided to lock everything in using the kit one. Fortunately if I end up switching to the other I can actually shorten the ESC wires even more. I think it turned out pretty nice.

I also need to think about painting probably tomorrow or Thursday. I’d like to get your opinions on a couple ideas I have in mind.

I can’t decide if I want to paint the under tray or leave it clear. What do you think?

If I paint it it would just be one color. Either the anvil gray that’s going to be the main body color or fluorescent yellow or sparkly metallic purple.

And for the body. The clear stuff will all be anvil gray with a pearl coat and the stripes will be one of three
1) fluorescent yellow
2) metallic purple
3) camel yellow. (I already plan to do the kit body in box art)

The wing, painted from the top or the “inside” would be whatever secondary color I use on the bottom then a backer then the anvil gray on top.

To be totally honest… I think it looks better without the wing

Help me make up my mind! Chime in with whatever your thoughts are. Even if you think all the ideas are stupid.

Thanks yall!

 

[CJSRCLIFE]

Made some moves today on the Gold Pan. This weekend they’re running a vintage class at Pit Stop. So even though I didn’t get to test fit the other battery tray I decided to lock everything in using the kit one. Fortunately if I end up switching to the other I can actually shorten the ESC wires even more. I think it turned out pretty nice.

View attachment 190497

I also need to think about painting probably tomorrow or Thursday. I’d like to get your opinions on a couple ideas I have in mind.

I can’t decide if I want to paint the under tray or leave it clear. What do you think?

If I paint it it would just be one color. Either the anvil gray that’s going to be the main body color or fluorescent yellow or sparkly metallic purple.

View attachment 190495View attachment 190496

And for the body. The clear stuff will all be anvil gray with a pearl coat and the stripes will be one of three
1) fluorescent yellow
2) metallic purple
3) camel yellow. (I already plan to do the kit body in box art)

The wing, painted from the top or the “inside” would be whatever secondary color I use on the bottom then a backer then the anvil gray on top.

View attachment 190492View attachment 190493

To be totally honest… I think it looks better without the wing

View attachment 190494

Help me make up my mind! Chime in with whatever your thoughts are. Even if you think all the ideas are stupid.

Thanks yall!

Just so you know that is a beautiful kit you have i also know a little about the original Associated RC10 from the 1980's the car that started the professional RC race scene and put Associated on the map as the leader in RC race kits. Nice setup for the electronics, Do you plan to run it or race it? Would that car be able to hold up to the brushless system you have in it on the track? I don't think any of your ideas are stupid i actually love this thread so far i just popped in to take a look and give you my thoughts on your build so far. Cheers and see you next time.

 

[BarnFabRC]

@CJSRCLIFE Thanks! I plan to race it. Not every weekend but anytime my “local” track does a vintage class. Usually 2-3 times over the summer. I think the chassis and such will hold up fine. I’m most concerned about the 6 gear transmission. If it does fail there seems to be no shortage of stealth units on eBay and such. I’m also curious if the transmission that’s in my RB10 could be adapted to work. It’s at my parents place so I haven’t been able to get a close look yet.

I’ve been wanting one of these since they first came out in 84. It just never happened. When I caught that pre order about 5 minutes after they announced it the purchase was immediate Probably not the wisest thing to blow $500 on but hey… You only live once!

Ultimately I’d like to see if I could get it to be competitive with the modern kits. I just have a long way to go as a driver. Imagine, a gold pan with a 6.5T mod motor dicing it up with B7’s and such

The “limited edition” part of it really has no bearing on what I’m going to do with it. They made a ton of them. And now there’s rumors they’re gonna do an RC10T before the summer ends. Might have to get in on that too. Gotta clear up some room on my favorite credit card.

 

[BarnFabRC]

Well here it is. Ready for Pit Stop this Saturday! As per usual something went wrong. The window masks left residue all over the windows so I tried to clean it up and it just turned to a disaster. The edges got all weird. Then I put on the Spaz Stix “window tint” and it may as well just be Tamiya PS-5. I dig the color combo big time. I’ll order a new body sooner or later and send it to a pro.

I decided to keep the under tray clear to show off the gold pan. And the wing too because I think it looks better without one and it doesn’t detract from the body lines too much.

Overall I’m happy as I ever am with one of my paint jobs

Can’t wait to run it!

 

[WickedFog]

Now I really want one.

 

[BarnFabRC]

The 10T re-re kit just released today. If they had waited another month or so I’d have probably jumped on it too. 2 kits in one quarter is just too much. I also saw a hint posted by AE that there is a stealth transmission coming.

 

[WickedFog]

The 10T re-re kit just released today. If they had waited another month or so I’d have probably jumped on it too. 2 kits in one quarter is just too much. I also saw a hint posted by AE that there is a stealth transmission coming.

They mention that on the 10T page.

 

[BarnFabRC]

Well it’s been a minute but I found some time today for the RC10. Did some reconfiguring and installed some of the hop-ups I’ve been stockpiling. I got a JC Racing transmission case that takes B6/RB10 internals. (Mostly because it’s the only way to get a gear diff in a gold pan.) I also got a bunch of carbon fiber bits from Factory Works. The main things being shock towers that accept B6 shocks. I used RB10 shocks. They’re basically the same but don’t have the threaded ride height adjusters and they were $50 for a whole set of 4 vs $75 per pair for the B6’s. I’m also in the middle of converting to B6 ball cups and studs. The white plastic ones are pretty weak. I had one or another pop EVERY time I had it on track so far. I also completely re-soldered the ESC & motor. I wasn’t happy with how it looked when I switched to the transverse mounted battery.

It’s gonna be a few weeks before I have a chance to get out again. I’ve been working 7 days/week. We’re making a big push to finish the current project at work by the end of July. It’s exhausting but I like $$$ I’m definitely going to be out to Pit Stop over the 4th of July weekend! It’s gonna be a ripper!

 

[CertifiedMike]

Great build so far! I have an original. I'm curious to know how the new tech works in the old pan. Keep posting!!!

 

[BarnFabRC]

Great build so far! I have an original. I'm curious to know how the new tech works in the old pan. Keep posting!!!

It did pretty well the last time I had it out. Biggest thing holding it back is my driving ability and the gold shocks were struggling to keep up with the bigger jumps . I was very happy with the JConcepts tires on Pit Stop’s untreated clay surface. Steering felt good and had plenty of drive out of the corners. I have the 13.5 running in blinky mode currently because I was afraid of thrashing the 6 gear trans. Now the JC racing housing is stuffed with all metal gears I think the weak point is the dog bones. If I wreck one I’ll switch to CVA’s or something. I’m actually off Sunday so I’ll probably paint the new shell I got. I want to do something special for the 4th weekend. We’ll see how it goes…

 

[CertifiedMike]

A few things maybe... Its been a few decades now so forgive me if my memory is off.
Way back in the day... Thorpe and Robinson for gears, MIP for your CVD's.
All were common, often necessary upgrades. I think there was a cheater trans too.
Ppl used to turn the trans around for a "mid" set up too if I recall.
I used to read about all this stuff thinking up the perfect set up for mine on a carpet track. Mine never ran a race though.
I ran an Optima and then a Mid. I never made it to 2wd.
Anywho, I watched a couple vids of ppl running Pitstop's track. Cool track!
Its 1/8th and 1/10 scale correct?
There were different scales running in vid and thru a fish eye lens so tough to judge but some of those jumps look pretty large.
That said, the Associated gold shocks were THE shocks to have excepting maybe Kyosho golds.
They tended to work well.
Perhaps as you mentioned, dialing in the shock oil, spring rates and driving skills will fix that issue over the jumps.
It looked like ppl in the novice class were struggling on some for sure!
Best of luck on the 4th outing!

Was just thinking... RPM arms and bulkheads were on EVERYONE'S car back then. I see they are still availible today. Unless your class regulates upgrades, those arms were priority # 1!
If they are still of similar quality, I recommend them 1000%. (Everything I read says they are)
I will be upgrading my new Arrma trucks with RPM soon enough. I can drive ok but 3s in the Granite and my driveway just isn't big enough! The clock is ticking for arm amputations. My hedges are HUNGRY!

 

[BarnFabRC]

@CertifiedMike I will definitely have to look for those RPM parts. I have to say though, the factory ones seem pretty good. I’m not a fan of the steering hubs though. The piece the turnbuckle attaches to seems really flimsy. I plan to get a spare set of pivot pins and clips too. I can see that being an issue in a bad crash. The main reason I switched to the RB10 shocks was for parts availability and to preserve the kit towers and shocks for shelf duty. Of all the times I’ve tumbled the cars hard the only stuff I’ve actually broken has been bent pivot pins and shock shafts. Once I broke an arm on my T6.4 at the carpet track by clipping the wall at full tilt on the front straight but that was pretty extreme.

As for the Pit Stop, there is a rhythm section in the infield that’s super difficult until you “get it.” It really takes good throttle control to keep from over jumping and under jumping. The sportsman class seems to have a lot of trouble with it. Hell, I only started to get through it consistently with my b74.1 last time I was out. They generally are pretty open with classes. Most of the modern cars are running mod motors. For 2wd, rear motor cars are usually better on that surface. All that weight back there helps put the power down.

This is only my second season racing and I’m finally starting to feel more confident. I really need to get out there mid-week and just practice for a while. Work on some setup changes etc. On any given race I’m happy if I can stay on the lead lap for more than half the race and don’t get in the fast guys way.

 

[BarnFabRC]

Had a moment of weakness the other day while cruising eBay… I just couldn’t resist!

The Parma Eagle

It’s a reproduction not an original but the mold was pulled from an original. A little more pricey than a JConcepts but come on! That thing is RAD!

It got delivered to my parent's place today from the UK.

I need to figure out a paint scheme. I’m thinking greens over white with white wheels. It’s going to be my shelf body for it. Idk if I’ll actually race it. (I probably will )

Maybe something like this:

Or one of these…. I love a good race car livery.

 

[RustyUs]

Most excellent build.
Any idea where you got that two wire organizer?