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so you mean to tell me.. standing in front of god and your mom that i can swap motor wires and fix my reverse problem rather than swapping the thing on my controller,,.... wtf I've had this issue and pulled my hair out trying to fix it and i coulda just swapped 2 wires????? i thought id make a fireball if i did this..
As long as it's not a sensored set up, yes.

What exactly does ā€œsensoredā€ and ā€œnon-sensoredā€ mean?
In RC brushless ESC (Electronic Speed Control) and motor combos, the difference between sensored and sensorless setups is in how they track the motor's rotor position:

  • Sensored Setup: A sensored motor has built-in sensors that provide precise information about the rotor's position to the ESC. This allows for smoother startups, better low-speed control, and more precise throttle response, making it ideal for racing or applications that need high accuracy, such as crawling.
  • Sensorless Setup: A sensorless motor relies on the back electromotive force (EMF) generated by the motor to determine rotor position. While simpler and more robust, sensorless setups can have rough startups and less precision at low speeds but perform well at high speeds, making them suitable for bashing or high-speed driving.
In short: sensored is smoother and more accurate at low speeds; sensorless is simpler and better at high speeds. Most modern ESC & Motor combos (like Tekin, Castle, & Hobbywing) switch to a sensorless mode once motor RPMs get to a certain point, so you get the best of both worlds.
 
As long as it's not a sensored set up, yes.


In RC brushless ESC (Electronic Speed Control) and motor combos, the difference between sensored and sensorless setups is in how they track the motor's rotor position:

  • Sensored Setup: A sensored motor has built-in sensors that provide precise information about the rotor's position to the ESC. This allows for smoother startups, better low-speed control, and more precise throttle response, making it ideal for racing or applications that need high accuracy, such as crawling.
  • Sensorless Setup: A sensorless motor relies on the back electromotive force (EMF) generated by the motor to determine rotor position. While simpler and more robust, sensorless setups can have rough startups and less precision at low speeds but perform well at high speeds, making them suitable for bashing or high-speed driving.
In short: sensored is smoother and more accurate at low speeds; sensorless is simpler and better at high speeds. Most modern ESC & Motor combos (like Tekin, Castle, & Hobbywing) switch to a sensorless mode once motor RPMs get to a certain point, so you get the best of both worlds.
Awesome. Thanks man. That was an excellent explanation. Even I understood it šŸ˜€
 
What exactly does ā€œsensoredā€ and ā€œnon-sensoredā€ mean?
Why do you itch so much? 🫠🤪

Sensored has a ribbed wire like you find in a computer or printer. It runs separately from the motor wires from esc to motor. It sensors the rotors location and makes it butter smooth on starts.

On my cen f450 I pulled the wire so it's basically sensor less now. At low rpm it's spools up the holds a tone for the lack of better words. It sounds like it has a turbo. šŸ˜Ž
 
so you mean to tell me.. standing in front of god and your mom that i can swap motor wires and fix my reverse problem rather than swapping the thing on my controller,,.... wtf I've had this issue and pulled my hair out trying to fix it and i coulda just swapped 2 wires????? i thought id make a fireball if i did this..
I'm pretty sure God likes a good fire too. What's the issue? 🤣
I actually had a tough time with this one til I learned about the phasing. It all makes "sense" now! šŸ™„šŸ¤­
 
Soldering a reedy 610 black box to reedy SP5 13.5t.
Motor has ABC and esc has orange, yellow, blue.
Been researching it online, but got confused with people talking about sensorless and sensored

I’m just trying to figure out which color goes to which terminal on the motor
Most often, ABC is left to right both on the motor and ESC, when looking from the side of the wires.

This is also the case here.

View attachment 203234
This is what it should be:
Blue = A
Yellow = B
Orange = C
Yes, if going super cheap/low budget, you got to keep an eye out for stuff if going with a sensored motor. I know of one, I'm sure there is others out there, popular copied ESC that has their "blue", and "orange" wires mixed up...
1727361791312.png

Wait. What? Who still uses Blue, Yellow, and Orange wires? That's just tacky nowadays.
 
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Yes, if going super cheap/low budget, you got to keep an eye out for stuff. I know of one, I'm sure there is others out there, popular copied ESC that has their "blue", and "orange" wires mixed up...
View attachment 203692
Wait. What? Who still uses Blue, Yellow, and Orange wires? That's just tacky nowadays.
So is orange the new black now or not? I'm SO out of the loop over here! 🤣
 
I had one of those cheap Gool rc ESC and brushless motor combo. I had put it together and somehow it was faster in reverse than it was going forward. I had them hooked up right... turns out at the factory where they are built they but the wires in the wrong place... just switched two wires and it ran fine. (note that a few days later my uncle put a 3s battery in it and it had fried the Esc because it was not recommended for 3s).
 
If you're thinking the channel is reversed and not a wiring issue, be sure to watch whats happening on your radio when you pull the trigger.
is it braking first and then "reverse" (although your car will be moving forward)
And with reverse throttle are you getting forward throttle curve and NO BRAKE from the esc?
Just watch which side of your trigger the brake stays on! 🤣
 
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