A little tuning help Please?

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Phins Fan

Hardcore RCTalk User
Messages
2,156
Reaction score
7
Location
Keeping warm in a fat roll somewhere.
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Associated 4.6

Alright first off she runs absolutely awesome most of the time. My issue is after warmups if I hit the brake and let it idle it stalls and has to cool before restart. I know your gonna say too lean right?? she only runs about 200-225 at most times and has plenty of smoke. I have been looking here all day to find the stock carb settings and go from there.....Could it be a cool or hot plug? I'm running mccoy 59 and burn odonells 20%(Almost thru first gallon). Any help in any direction is appreciated!!!:\
 
More than likely too rich on the LSN and your compensating by having the idle too high.

Hard to start after it's warm seems to be the nature of most of my rigs. New or old.
 
My bad. I was drinkin a little on the last post. Only had 1............Left!! :)

---------- Post added at 2:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 2:52 PM ----------

Gotta wait for the new flywheel to come in anyway so now I can go thru everything and tighten her up. Never sealed it when I got her either so I've got something to keep me busy for now....
 
All sealed, new flywheel,new plug.........same idle issues. I've leaned the lsn almost 2 full turns and adjusted the idle as well. She will idle during startup without issue. Its when I go for a temp check and hit the binders when I have to keep bliping her to keep running.
 
2 ideas but probably far off. Have you tried adjusting your throttle linkage and idle screw for a high idle (almost running off on you) and you can adjust the trim as it warms up? Also are you running the right plug? Again just my thoughts on trouble shooting but I'm sure you have thought of both already!

---------- Post added at 1:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 1:47 AM ----------

Or you fixed it cause its a 2 1/2 month old post! HA :whhooo:
 
I think farm boy may be closer to accurate for your issue. Sounds like you don't have the throttle linkage set to hold the throttle against the set screw at idle. An engine should idle without issue when your throttle is at "neutral" and should not change at all when you apply brakes. If either is true, then your linkage is holding your idle, not the set screw that is on the carb.
 
That is interesting! my idle goes down just a hair when the brakes are applied but only when your listening for it and it depends on how warm it is. Should this be a problem or should I be ok? Seems to run great the way I have it set!
 
Your idle should not change when brakes are applied. If it does, then either your idle screw isn't set properly and the throttle barrel is moving or your clutch is dragging and stopping the bell (brakes stop the drive train which stops the clutch bell) causing the engine RPM's to drop further.
 
So if its not my clutch and I'm pretty sure my idle screw is set (as I'm sure are both true) would it just be my linkage arm putting a bit of pressure on my carb? And since it idles down so little should I mess with it or will it affect anything?
 
If it's not pushing a hair past the spot where the throttle is resting on the idle screw now, when you adjust it so that it is, you will more than likely need to increase your idle via the idle screw.

I normally adjust my linkage so that when my transmitter is at neutral for throttle/brake, I have about 1mm slop on the linkage, regardless of my vehicle.

Got a photo of my linkage on an old savage:
2004-1106-SavageFrontThrottleLinkageDeadBand.jpg


The gap you see circled is the "slop" I'm referring to, I believe it's called "linkage deadband". The distance your servo is allowed to move from it's resting position (home, center, neutral...) before the linkage actually moves. As you can see on mine, the servo has to move right about 1mm before it even makes contact with that collar. When it does make contact, it opens my throttle. The throttle arm on the carb has a throttle return spring holding the throttle solid against the idle screw. Also, the spring on the left of the yellow slider is there to provide even more constant pressure to the wire to hold the carb against the idle screw with the servo at home or brake.
 

Similar threads

Back
Top