An air leak will normally show up at idle = hard to tune idle mixture & rpm . . .
What temp is it? What makes you say it's hot?
I use temp to safety check, but I have now learned to tune by sound and watching/feeling what the engine is doing . . .
If the engine is running hot, most likely you are running lean on the high speed needle.
Before you start tuning
1. check your plug . . . if you have been running lean enough to run the engine hot, likely you have distored your plug - make sure the coils are not deformed.
2. make sure the engine is up to running temp (one upon a time I would start moving needles when the engine was still warming up - I now know I was wasting my time as the tune would change when the engine was up to temp - in fact, if the engine runs really well when you first start it, it's an indication that your tune is too lean - it should run rich when the engine is cold)
Richen up the high speed needle (say,1/2 a turn or more) until it is obviously rich at WOT/wide open throttle (rich = blubbering and not reaching higher rpm, lots of smoke).
Then work back . . . . do WOT run; listening to the engine . . . gradually lean the mixture an hour at a time (imagine needle adjustements/movement of the needle as a clock face - 1 hours = moving the needle from 1pm to 2pm))
Do a WOT run = rich . . . blubbering, slow to reach max rpm, max rpm is low,lots of smoke - lean out the high speed needle 1 hour (screw in 1 hour)
Do a WOT run = better . . . higher rpm, less bog . . . . lean the high speed needle 1 hour
Do a WOT run = better again . . higher rpm, less bog . . . lean the high speed needle 1 hour
Do a Wot run = high RPM, slight smoke trail, clean sounding engine (not blubbering, deeper tone, not pingie/zingie tone).
Then check your temps . . .
I hope this helps.