27mhz to 2.4ghz conversion??

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Thanks grey wolf, just checking though would a brushless run ok on ni-mh battery while I look into lipo or wait before swapping out the motor, just thinking as I’m converting the 27mhz to 2.4 I might as well swap out the motor while I’m at it
Theyre going to get super hot and the run time will be very short. I wouldnt suggest it but if you have a temp gun and can keep an eye on the battery temps you might get away with it for a short period of time. I've never actually tried it but I'm pretty sure youd end up ruining them if they run too hot repeatedly.
 
Thanks I will look for lipo battery’s as I need to find the correct shape, long oval shape at the ends
This sort of shape

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Thanks for all your input guys very helpful. I am now in need of more info regarding the battery required as I have not used lipo before. I don’t understand the difference with 20c, 40c, 50c etc
This is what I have coming
Surpass hobby kk 3650 brushless motor 4500kv with 60A brushless ESC.
 
Lower C rated batteries are more meant for low current draw applications such as crawlers and lightweight buggies. The C rating is basically how much punch the battery can deliver by way of delivering amperage. Think of it as a bottle of soda. The larger the neck of the bottle, the faster you can pour out the contents.

But basically, the higher C rating, the better the quality of the battery - in theory. As @Greywolf74 has found in his Comparing LiPo's thread in the electronics forum, the advertised C rating kinda means diddly squat. His test results have shown that the best Lipo's for the money are Liperior, CNHL, and Zippy.

The mAh (milliamps/hour) is how much capacity the battery has. Think of this as the size of the bottle. So the larger the mAh rating, the longer you can run your RC before hitting LVC (low voltage cutoff). You never want to run a LiPo battery below 3 volts per cell. Doing so will degrade the cell(s) and hurt your battery's performance over time.

There are numerous videos, web pages, etc that explain how to properly charge, store, and care for your LiPo batteries. I suggest you spend a couple hours digesting as much info as you can before you go any further. Then come back with any questions you need answers for.

As for your question, I'd get the highest C rating and highest mAh battery you can afford that fits in your rig. 50c is ok for a basher, but more is better 😉

Oh, if you go too low on the C rating, you will notice voltage drop when hitting the throttle on your RC. That is because when you accelerate, your RC draws more current (amperage) from the battery. If the C rating isn't high enough to deliver the required load, the voltage will take a hit, and you will notice your battery will heat up. Heat in any electronic device is undesirable.
 
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Looks like I’m pretty limited on battery makes as it needs to be a round case type
 
Unfortunately not as it’s an old tamiya TL01 chassis

Unless you know a way to mod it
Anything can be accomplished with a dremel, a plan of attack, and some motivation. Not having one of these trucks myself, I can't help ya.
 
Plenty of decent stick pack lipos around. Most popular option around here is the CoreRC 4000mah stick pack. A cheaper option is the Garpot 4000mah stick which is known to fit into Tamiya chassis.
 
Thanks I have ordered the garpot 4000 and should arrive tomorrow.
 
Hi guys back again, just wanted to say thanks for all your help. Finally today I rebuilt the car and added a brushless motor with ESC and a new front servo, new radio gear and lipo batteries. The truck took off like a rocket but was short lived
1. My pinion gear keeps coming loose
2. Made big rookie mistake and forgot to put the front bumper back on. Had a little crash and broke a turnbuckle.
Oh well lesson learned
 
Some pics
 

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time for new pinion gear best option or new pinion gear grub screw and Loctite blue
 
It is a brand new pinion gear so I think the loctite is needed
 
Hi guys more update and help needed. So I have managed to secure the pinion and took it for a test drive today. At half speed car is fine but as soon as I push full throttle the car travels about 3 meters before it flips over sideways not backwards as in a wheelie. Any suggestions please ( remember I’m a newbie hehe)
 
Make sure that you have no axles binding or wanting to pop out of their cups ,too much
shock travel can cause them to slightly pop out an upset the running of the truck!

I had one do it ,so I adjusted my shock travel an moved my wheel hubs in to where the axles
stay in the cup better!

Here is what happened to mine!..😢

1642274600574.png
 
I have a feeling it may be the shocks as the car is very springy. Shocks are original just a doing with a piston no oil fill or adjustment but can’t seem to find any oil filled shakes the correct length. The ones on it are 62mm eye to eye centre.
 
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