Will this work still new to this rc stuff

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Magiccard5961

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I recently jus bought this traxxis nitro 2.5 rustler will this baterry work for the ez start wand n should I get this or go to a hobby shop bought this car on a chance it will work had a jammed fly wheel but it spins freely n has alot of compression with glow plug in spent 70 on this jus dont wanna drop alot on somethn that might not run but got a full rebuild kit along with the car
 

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yes that should work for the ez start, they are decent rigs, thats a really cool cage for it. do have to remember that all Hobby grade cars can be re-pieced back together. i highly recommend downloading the manual and tear down the trck in sections to familiarize yourself with the truck
 
I didn't start with nitro car because my friend recommended electric car for me. he said it is easier for me to start hobby
 
yes that should work for the ez start, they are decent rigs, thats a really cool cage for it. do have to remember that all Hobby grade cars can be re-pieced back together. i highly recommend downloading the manual and tear down the trck in sections to familiarize yourself with the truck
I'm hoping it runs jus waiting on the baterry to get here for ez start how do I tell in meantime if motor is even good on it
 
I'm hoping it runs jus waiting on the baterry to get here for ez start how do I tell in meantime if motor is even good on it

is the engine locked up / crank rotating?
if locked up: (if free spinning skip to step 2)

1:
(nitro engines, unless suffered catastrophic failure, typically only lock up because fuel is gummed up in the crankcase, or pinch is really tight).
i would start by pulling the engine out, should be 4-6 screws on the bottom of the chassis, and slowly and carefully disassemble. main goal is to remove your backplate assembly and glow plug.
pour some nitro fuel into a container so you can use it as a parts bath, dip the crank case and slosh it around a bit, attempt to rotate crank again. then repeat. it might take a bit of force, but dont overdo it.
once you get it to rotate: keep sloshing fuel in the crankcase and rotating the crank to flush gummed up fuel from it.
replace backplate assembly,
2:
Roatate crank, are you getting "pinch" at TDC of the piston without glow plug in hole?
install glow plug, are you getting a fair amount of compression with glow plug in hole?

if yes to either of step 2, motor should be fine. (barring damaged parts in between.)
if no to both, can grab an SH engine for right around 60$ to throw in the truck.
 
is the engine locked up / crank rotating?
if locked up: (if free spinning skip to step 2)

1:
(nitro engines, unless suffered catastrophic failure, typically only lock up because fuel is gummed up in the crankcase, or pinch is really tight).
i would start by pulling the engine out, should be 4-6 screws on the bottom of the chassis, and slowly and carefully disassemble. main goal is to remove your backplate assembly and glow plug.
pour some nitro fuel into a container so you can use it as a parts bath, dip the crank case and slosh it around a bit, attempt to rotate crank again. then repeat. it might take a bit of force, but dont overdo it.
once you get it to rotate: keep sloshing fuel in the crankcase and rotating the crank to flush gummed up fuel from it.
replace backplate assembly,
2:
Roatate crank, are you getting "pinch" at TDC of the piston without glow plug in hole?
install glow plug, are you getting a fair amount of compression with glow plug in hole?

if yes to either of step 2, motor should be fine. (barring damaged parts in between.)
if no to both, can grab an SH engine for right around 60$ to throw in the truck.
you can also do this with denatured alcohol, i would recomend removing carb because i dont like to get cleaners on O-rings, but some have had no issues. flush carb with fuel, to clean out needles.
do not use the fuel you used for cleaning to run in the truck.
also i do not recommend running traxxas fuels, at all way to much oil content to run at good temps.
 
I didn't start with nitro car because my friend recommended electric car for me. he said it is easier for me to start hobby
electric is definitely easier, but to me nothing beats nitro, between working on them and running, nitro is the best. (IMO)
 
is the engine locked up / crank rotating?
if locked up: (if free spinning skip to step 2)

1:
(nitro engines, unless suffered catastrophic failure, typically only lock up because fuel is gummed up in the crankcase, or pinch is really tight).
i would start by pulling the engine out, should be 4-6 screws on the bottom of the chassis, and slowly and carefully disassemble. main goal is to remove your backplate assembly and glow plug.
pour some nitro fuel into a container so you can use it as a parts bath, dip the crank case and slosh it around a bit, attempt to rotate crank again. then repeat. it might take a bit of force, but dont overdo it.
once you get it to rotate: keep sloshing fuel in the crankcase and rotating the crank to flush gummed up fuel from it.
replace backplate assembly,
2:
Roatate crank, are you getting "pinch" at TDC of the piston without glow plug in hole?
install glow plug, are you getting a fair amount of compression with glow plug in hole?

if yes to either of step 2, motor should be fine. (barring damaged parts in between.)
if no to both, can grab an SH engine for right around 60$ to throw in the truck.
So I did this I got the fly wheel to spin freely without glow plug now with glow plug I can spin it n it feels like it has alot of compression I guess the guy I got it from ran it hot n jus stored it without draining everything and the flywheel was seized
 
So I did this I got the fly wheel to spin freely without glow plug now with glow plug I can spin it n it feels like it has alot of compression I guess the guy I got it from ran it hot n jus stored it without draining everything and the flywheel was seized
sounds like it should still be good to run, typically, unless you tear the engine down and clean it completely, or add ARO and turn it over every few weeks/month, there is going to be residual fuel still in there and will gum it up. (in my experience anyways). when you say the flywheel was seized, are you meaning it was seized to the crank? or the crank was seized?
 
sounds like it should still be good to run, typically, unless you tear the engine down and clean it completely, or add ARO and turn it over every few weeks/month, there is going to be residual fuel still in there and will gum it up. (in my experience anyways). when you say the flywheel was seized, are you meaning it was seized to the crank? or the crank was seized?
Bascially I turned the car upside down n used a screwdriver to free the flywheel
 
To re phrase it's only the flywheel that was jammed the crank isnt jammed jus the flywheel was lol
i guess I'm confused haha, are you meaning the flywheel was stuck on the crankshaft? or it was stuck against the chassis seizing the crank?
the flywheel has a collet that it presses into that locks it on the crankshaft. they should not move independently of one another, they should move as one.
 
i guess I'm confused haha, are you meaning the flywheel was stuck on the crankshaft? or it was stuck against the chassis seizing the crank?
the flywheel has a collet that it presses into that locks it on the crankshaft. they should not move independently of one another, they should move as one.
Was stuck against the chassis it spins now it was all gunked up now I jus waiting on baterrys to arrive to try n fire it up
 
Nice! Definitely keep us posted on the results or if you have questions
Will do I wanna fix this one but idk where to get this piece it's the little bracket that goes to carb to open and close for gas n break
 

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are there any markings on the side of the engine? the traxxas 2.5 and 2.5R were slide carbs, the one on yours is a rotary carb. that piece is called the "throttle arm".
 
are there any markings on the side of the engine? the traxxas 2.5 and 2.5R were slide carbs, the one on yours is a rotary carb. that piece is called the "throttle arm".
This one is my team associated 15 Rc 10 gt
 

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