Yeti jr can am gearing options

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J’sCrawler

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I recently purchased the yeti jr can am and I do like it. I already put the hobbywing 2435 4500kv and 16bl30 esc combo in it and it gets down! Also added the rear locker, aluminum driveshafts, and the steel center driveshaft. Nothing done to the front yet.
The esc has the temperature cut off set on, yet the motor feels quite warm enough to not want to hold your finger on it. I haven’t shot it with a temp gun so I’m not sure what the temp actually is.
Anyway to my real question, has anyone found a different spur gear or preferably just a pinion with a different tooth count? It’s a 15T so I’m thinking come down just a few teeth. All I see for 2.3mm bore pinions is in the 20’s and I kind of think that is high.
 
looking I seen them in 10-25t loose the bore in Ur searches
 
I just ran the can am around the track for awhile, the brushless motor feels hot but I can keep my finger on it for 5 seconds or so. Still too hot right? I mean what you (tntpoof) said in my other thread about the losi, this feels too hot, hence why I’m trying to find some pinion options for this motor. The stock pinion is 2.3mm bore, 48P 15T on a 60T spur. All stock gearing, the brushed motor ran that hot too.
It must be me right? My motors feel “hot”....? Except the losi burned up 2 brushed motors.
 
You need a temp gun. That being said if you can keep your finger on it for 5 seconds you're probably fine. You can run a brushless motor up to around 160-170F. At those temps you aint keeping your finger on it for even a second. You dont want to run the ESC over about 150F or so.
 
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I think I found an option for this. The Traxxas 4tec uses a spur gear that has the same “notch” as the axial yeti jr. I’ve ordered the 70T spur. That should make a difference. I don’t have a temp gun but I have something that will work.
 

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126 degrees F/ 52 C is what the motor casing reads, the hobbywing manual says keep it under 90C which was much higher than what I’m running so I’d say it’s good.
 
another run put the temp at 129.3F..... and that was really "testing" it. man what a fast little thing. the 2435 really makes this liitle side by side run! I programmed the timing to be at 0 degrees and thats where i think i like it. If i can just get it to stop flipping over. widen the track with some wider hexes, or some bigger more squishy tires........ theres not many options.
I've seen a 4link part kit for this, by hot racing. At $43 I'll pass, cutting out the center piece of the 3link is free and probably equally effective. It gives it about 1/8" more articulation? Anyway that flex right there "should" help it with the flipping issue.
 
another run put the temp at 129.3F..... and that was really "testing" it. man what a fast little thing. the 2435 really makes this liitle side by side run! I programmed the timing to be at 0 degrees and thats where i think i like it. If i can just get it to stop flipping over. widen the track with some wider hexes, or some bigger more squishy tires........ theres not many options.
I've seen a 4link part kit for this, by hot racing. At $43 I'll pass, cutting out the center piece of the 3link is free and probably equally effective. It gives it about 1/8" more articulation? Anyway that flex right there "should" help it with the flipping issue.
Another 165F or lower is acceptable for brushless motor so you're perfectly fine there.

Might look and see if you can find any hub extenders for it to widen its stance a bit. I did that for my Kraton 4S cuz I had the same issue with it flipping over all the time. It helped a bit but I think i need to get something better than the stock tires too.
 
temp is fine. Being able to hold 1s finger means its at a ok temp. going past 180 will make magnets loose there strength.. gearing is fine..
 
on my flipping issue, i bought a 2s lipo 2200mah. its a little smaller and lighter physically so that helps on COG, and maybe the DIY 4link could be helping too. it still flips and rolls over but sometimes comes back to its wheels. i found some GPM Racing wheel hexes that will widen the wheel base. coming straight from china.

i may have to change this around to a build thread since thats what it seems to be leaning towards?
 
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