X-maxx shock and diff oil

[Pablo1980]

Hi, I'm about to tear down my X-maxx for the first time to give it a good service and was wondering what diff oil combination to use and what oil to use in the shocks.
It's pretty much stock but I did replace the pinion for a 20t and the spur gear to a hardened steel 50t but the electronics are stock. I generally bash on grass and in woods and obviously send it but not stupidly high

 

[Greywolf74]

From the Traxxas XMAXX users manual.

 

[Pablo1980]

From the Traxxas XMAXX users manual.

View attachment 153361



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View attachment 153363

Would you recommend using standard weight oil then

 

[PeighDay]

I run 100k front and rear with silicone ear plugs for the center diff.

 

[STONER RC]

Hi, I'm about to tear down my X-maxx for the first time to give it a good service and was wondering what diff oil combination to use and what oil to use in the shocks.
It's pretty much stock but I did replace the pinion for a 20t and the spur gear to a hardened steel 50t but the electronics are stock. I generally bash on grass and in woods and obviously send it but not stupidly high

Welcome to the rc fun house bud. How long have you had the X for? The shocks come with 30wt oil. Which is a joke IMO. And also very soft springs. The diffs are at a ok natural set up. For running on road or off. But alot of times they aren't filed the way they should be from the factory. Are you haven handling issues or traction issues? Or just looking to do some maintenance?

The diffs are also something that comes down to personal driving habits. Along with the shock. For the handling and landings from jumps.

I only run off road and send it off dirt mounds to make it fly. I run 50k/30k front/ rear in the diffs. I used to run 50k/50k. Bit it didn't like going into the turn at high speeds to much. For my shocks I run Vg racing springs which are way stiffer then the stock ones. And 60wt oil in all 4. Also change to aluminum spring adjusters and caps.

If your still running stock electronics esc, servo ect. I would keep your truck with the stock set up. The 20/50 gears are what I was running before which out all the electronics. Sorry but it's only a matter of time before your electronics take a shi*. Traxxas electronics suck they are the worst. Everyone will tell you that. I run the Castle XLX2 esc a true 1/5 scale servo. And tl a HW 1100kv motor running 25/30 1.5 mod gears. Also run it in Druatrax six pack belted tires which I love after I reglued them. The stock tires are ok but they are very easily ballooned and rip apart. I truly love my X it's a beast of a truck. And I have over 20 different rc's. All from 1/24 up to 1/5 scale. If you have any other questions please just ask bud

I run 100k front and rear with silicone ear plugs for the center diff.

Holly poop really 100k. That thing must hate turns. Haha. Ear plugs in the center diff is good. Holds up better then the 2m diff grease.. well oil but it might as well be grease

 

[PeighDay]

Holly poop really 100k. That thing must hate turns. Haha. Ear plugs in the center diff is good. Holds up better then the 2m diff grease.. well oil but it might as well be grease

yeah turning is not that great but I don’t do a lot of turning more like send it and go. Still pretty new to RC so I was just testing out various thickness levels. I definitely like the silicone ear plugs in the center diff. 20m is definitely more like a grease then an oil.

I had a max6 in my Xmaxx but just put the VXL-8s back in as I don’t think I saw any huge improvements over the stock one.

 

[STONER RC]

yeah turning is not that great but I don’t do a lot of turning more like send it and go. Still pretty new to RC so I was just testing out various thickness levels. I definitely like the silicone ear plugs in the center diff. 20m is definitely more like a grease then an oil.

I had a max6 in my Xmaxx but just put the VXL-8s back in as I don’t think I saw any huge improvements over the stock one.

Really. The max6 programmed the rite way. Should have woke up the stock motor. What gear set up were you running at that time. I would watch the temps on the stock VXL-8 esc . With those diffs pretty much locked up. Probably putting more strain the motor and heating up the esc. Don't want to see your esc go up in flames or smoke bud. The traxxas esc are garbage alot of issues with them once weight and upgrading and mods are done to the truck. That's the one thing I hate with traxxas. They need to put some more time into their R&D with their electronics

 

[Greywolf74]

Would you recommend using standard weight oil then

Thats up to you. Youve presumably been running the stock fluids. If you didnt have any issues with it on stock fluids then i wouldnt change it. If you werent happy with the performance in some way then make adjustments based on whatever deficiency you're encountering.

 

[PeighDay]

Really. The max6 programmed the rite way. Should have woke up the stock motor. What gear set up were you running at that time. I would watch the temps on the stock VXL-8 esc . With those diffs pretty much locked up. Probably putting more strain the motor and heating up the esc. Don't want to see your esc go up in flames or smoke bud. The traxxas esc are garbage alot of issues with them once weight and upgrading and mods are done to the truck. That's the one thing I hate with traxxas. They need to put some more time into their R&D with their electronics

Yeah I have the programming card as well. Bumped the punch setting to 5 and while it did feel slightly better it was not $160 better IMO. So I dropped the max6 in my Talion.

I check the motor temps quite regularly while running it and never let it get above 140 and these were on very hot days. I didn’t like 18/50 gearing so I went down to 16/50.

I will take your advice and put the stock diff oil back in. When I first got the truck it didn’t even want to wheelie so I was testing out various fluid etc.

I run heavier fluids in my various Arrma rigs and haven’t had issues with heating before but like you said Traxxas electronics are garbage.

 

[STONER RC]

Thats up to you. Youve presumably been running the stock fluids. If you didnt have any issues with it on stock fluids then i wouldnt change it. If you werent happy with the performance in some way then make adjustments based on whatever deficiency you're encountering.

I 100% agree with you bud. Especially still running the stock electronics. Definitely don't want to add any stain to that stock motor esc combo. Will just asking for problems. If not already havem some with that combo

Yeah I have the programming card as well. Bumped the punch setting to 5 and while it did feel slightly better it was not $160 better IMO. So I dropped the max6 in my Talion.

I check the motor temps quite regularly while running it and never let it get above 140 and these were on very hot days. I didn’t like 18/50 gearing so I went down to 16/50.

I will take your advice and put the stock diff oil back in. When I first got the truck it didn’t even want to wheelie so I was testing out various fluid etc.

I run heavier fluids in my various Arrma rigs and haven’t had issues with heating before but like you said Traxxas electronics are garbage.

With the hw punch setting. Their is differnet stage settings. With it set to 5 thats on the low end of the punch range. What is your stage 2 punch set at? And with a higher punch setting you need a really high C rating lipo. To dump as much power as possible. So I would go with 60c or higher. I run 60c and higher in all my lipos.

So with the HW programming card. That is limited you should look into the new blue tooh programmer they have now. It opens up alot more wit programming. Where do you take your temp reading from. Front or back or do you just shot the middle of the motor. Running 16/50 your getting 140°. Wow what type of fan you running? 16/50 I would think it would be hot.

What type of lipos are you running? In the X and what C rating.

 

[Pablo1980]

Thanks for all the help, I've been happy with the way she handles(steering could be a bit better but until the standard servo dies to then upgrade then I will carry on with the standard servo) I've had her for 10 months now and the electronics are holding up well with no issues but from what I've read the standard motor with a max6 esc is a good combo. Sounds like then while I'm using her stock then I will keep the stock fluid as well. Is there any other recommendations for motor combo for when the stock one dies but keeping her nice and light as I believe that's what makes the X-maxx the best out there. I'm happy with the power the stock set up gives as it's a monster truck that in my opinion is for bashing not speed,obviously don't want it slower than stock

 

[STONER RC]

Thanks for all the help, I've been happy with the way she handles(steering could be a bit better but until the standard servo dies to then upgrade then I will carry on with the standard servo) I've had her for 10 months now and the electronics are holding up well with no issues but from what I've read the standard motor with a max6 esc is a good combo. Sounds like then while I'm using her stock then I will keep the stock fluid as well. Is there any other recommendations for motor combo for when the stock one dies but keeping her nice and light as I believe that's what makes the X-maxx the best out there. I'm happy with the power the stock set up gives as it's a monster truck that in my opinion is for bashing not speed,obviously don't want it slower than stock

The stock servo is way under power. I have more power in my 1/10 trucks. Then the 2085 stock servo puts out. It's only 365oz/in of tourqe at its max. And all plastic gears. I'm really surprised it hasn't went out already. It all comes down to the driving styles on how Long they last. If your not really haven any issues I would definitely keep everything stock.

You cam definitely put a high wt oil in the shocks. If your jumping it on decent jumps. And heavy diff fluid in the front. Wit help with tires ballooning while turning. It's pretty light in the front. They only put 10k from factory. It's like water and probably not even filled to be honest. I broke my Xmaxx completely apart before i even drove it the first time. And the diffs were about half full. And 30k in the rear. Definitely 2m or earplugs in center diff basically want that one almost locked. Like we said it all comes down to each individual preferences and drive style.. what gearing are you running still the stock 18/54. And what type lipos are you running just curious

 

[PeighDay]

With the hw punch setting. Their is differnet stage settings. With it set to 5 thats on the low end of the punch range. What is your stage 2 punch set at? And with a higher punch setting you need a really high C rating lipo. To dump as much power as possible. So I would go with 60c or higher. I run 60c and higher in all my lipos.

So with the HW programming card. That is limited you should look into the new blue tooh programmer they have now. It opens up alot more wit programming. Where do you take your temp reading from. Front or back or do you just shot the middle of the motor. Running 16/50 your getting 140°. Wow what type of fan you running? 16/50 I would think it would be hot.

What type of lipos are you running? In the X and what C rating.

I currently use Socokin 100c 65000mAh.
tried the Yowoo Graphene and Zee 100c and they perform about the same for me with the edge going to the graphene.

I tried various punch settings from 2 to 5 and didn’t notice any difference really. Could be due to me being a novice. Read the manual about the “strict requirements“ for battery discharge capabilities and didn’t notice any sudden loss of power or startup issues as described in the manual.

I take motor temps various ways. I use the bluetooth adapter to check the temps but also use my temp gun on the front of the motor and anywhere I can find a spot not being covered by the HS. Usually check in a couple of places.

I replaced the stock motor fans with some Rocket 35mm fans.

Are you saying 140 temps is low for a 16/50 gearing setup?

Appreciate all the knowledge you are sharing.

 

[Pablo1980]

The stock servo is way under power. I have more power in my 1/10 trucks. Then the 2085 stock servo puts out. It's only 365oz/in of tourqe at its max. And all plastic gears. I'm really surprised it hasn't went out already. It all comes down to the driving styles on how Long they last. If your not really haven any issues I would definitely keep everything stock.

You cam definitely put a high wt oil in the shocks. If your jumping it on decent jumps. And heavy diff fluid in the front. Wit help with tires ballooning while turning. It's pretty light in the front. They only put 10k from factory. It's like water and probably not even filled to be honest. I broke my Xmaxx completely apart before i even drove it the first time. And the diffs were about half full. And 30k in the rear. Definitely 2m or earplugs in center diff basically want that one almost locked. Like we said it all comes down to each individual preferences and drive style.. what gearing are you running still the stock 18/54. And what type lipos are you running just curious

I'm running 20/50 gearing and using zeee 6000mah lipos, that's the only upgrade I've done with the gearing but done the usual of putting rpm hinge pins all round and upgraded to the bigger ball bearing hub carrier's

 

[STONER RC]

I currently use Socokin 100c 65000mAh.
tried the Yowoo Graphene and Zee 100c and they perform about the same for me with the edge going to the graphene.

I tried various punch settings from 2 to 5 and didn’t notice any difference really. Could be due to me being a novice. Read the manual about the “strict requirements“ for battery discharge capabilities and didn’t notice any sudden loss of power or startup issues as described in the manual.

I take motor temps various ways. I use the bluetooth adapter to check the temps but also use my temp gun on the front of the motor and anywhere I can find a spot not being covered by the HS. Usually check in a couple of places.

I replaced the stock motor fans with some Rocket 35mm fans.

Are you saying 140 temps is low for a 16/50 gearing setup?

Appreciate all the knowledge you are sharing.

I currently use Socokin 100c 65000mAh.
tried the Yowoo Graphene and Zee 100c and they perform about the same for me with the edge going to the graphene.

I tried various punch settings from 2 to 5 and didn’t notice any difference really. Could be due to me being a novice. Read the manual about the “strict requirements“ for battery discharge capabilities and didn’t notice any sudden loss of power or startup issues as described in the manual.

I take motor temps various ways. I use the bluetooth adapter to check the temps but also use my temp gun on the front of the motor and anywhere I can find a spot not being covered by the HS. Usually check in a couple of places.

I replaced the stock motor fans with some Rocket 35mm fans.

Are you saying 140 temps is low for a 16/50 gearing setup?

Appreciate all the knowledge you are sharing.

Your the first person to ever say that with the different esc there wasn't any difference.. So this has gotten me wondering why since last night.To where I've been watching videos and researching the max6 esc in the Xmaxx all night and morning. hahaha.... love this hobby.

Also that you only are getting 140° temps running at 16/50. You should be getting tons of tourqe at that ratio. And the VXL really shouldn't be liking it to much either over heating like crazy. Are you running bigger fan on the esc as well as the rockets on the motor?

The VXL line of esc aren't built that great. And completely unreliable and they crap out all the time for the littlest reasons. It's got to be your gearing. It seems a bit mild to me. The stock pinon is a 18. With 54 spur and people burning up esc's all day everyday. With that set up. I even had the VXL in thermal shut down in my first run. 5 mins in to the very first lipo packs. Running in a grass feild and sany beach area..This is very weird to me. You definitely should have notice a better throttle response. And better continuous power..

When you had the max6 in the X. Did you try gearing it up to 18-20 over the 50 spur. The 100 C rating with your lipos should have the X flying?

I'm very interested in why you didn't see or feel any improvement over the VXL esc. The VXL is a completely under rated esc for the Xmaxx.

 

[STONER RC]

I'm running 20/50 gearing and using zeee 6000mah lipos, that's the only upgrade I've done with the gearing but done the usual of putting rpm hinge pins all round and upgraded to the bigger ball bearing hub carrier's

Whats the C rating on those lipos? I believe they are 50c correct. I run Zeee lipos also. I also run Youme, HRP, and Liperior lipos. Which the liperior are probably the best ones. At a decent price range and great build quality. The Traxxas lipos are over rated priced pieces of crap.

That are more of a headache then anything. The 20/50 gearing is a good bashing gearing. It's what I was running in my X.it definitely helped with heating issues. I finally put in the Castle XLX2 esc. With that gearing and it was a completely different truck. With tons of more power...

I just received a awesome surprise from one of the guys on here. He sent me one of his HW 1100kv motor he didn't want anymore. And now I'm running 25/30 mod 1.5 gears.

And now don't have to think about or worry about heating issue. It's got power for days. I might even gear up a little bit.

The worst part about the Xmaxx is the auto flip. It's the #1 reason people are destroying their differentials. It's the worst idea Traxxas has ever had. Beside the auto start for their nitro car/trucks.

If you haven't ever gone over the truck before. As far as maintenance goes. I would definitely take a look at your diffs. The center diff is a bit of a pain to get to. The front/rear are rite there under the bumpers.

Very easy to get too and do maintenance on them. I would suggest getting new 2 million diff grease/fluid. . It's not really fluid though haha.. because if your going to do the maintenance. it might be a good time to put new grease in there. Since such a pain To get too.

When I got my Xmaxx the first thing I did was tare it apart. I wemt over every screw and nut. The mesh was way to tight. And both the front and rear diff were pretty low on fluid. They should be full over the spider gears. To the top of the diff cup. Then screw the main gear back onto the cup.

When you get a RTR rc from the factory. They really aren't truly ready to run out the box. There's some maintenance that should be done before driven. It's why you read reviews that day the Xmaxx is crap the gears strip to easy or the diff blow up on their first run.

Because they didn't check anything before driven. Number one rule always go over the RC either new or used go over the whole RC screw for screw. Put lock tight on metal to metal screws. Make sure they are all tight. All the fluids are full and every thing is greased properly. It pays off in the Long run for sure....

 

[Pablo1980]

Whats the C rating on those lipos? I believe they are 50c correct. I run Zeee lipos also. I also run Youme, HRP, and Liperior lipos. Which the liperior are probably the best ones. At a decent price range and great build quality. The Traxxas lipos are over rated priced pieces of crap.

That are more of a headache then anything. The 20/50 gearing is a good bashing gearing. It's what I was running in my X.it definitely helped with heating issues. I finally put in the Castle XLX2 esc. With that gearing and it was a completely different truck. With tons of more power...

I just received a awesome surprise from one of the guys on here. He sent me one of his HW 1100kv motor he didn't want anymore. And now I'm running 25/30 mod 1.5 gears.

And now don't have to think about or worry about heating issue. It's got power for days. I might even gear up a little bit.

The worst part about the Xmaxx is the auto flip. It's the #1 reason people are destroying their differentials. It's the worst idea Traxxas has ever had. Beside the auto start for their nitro car/trucks.

If you haven't ever gone over the truck before. As far as maintenance goes. I would definitely take a look at your diffs. The center diff is a bit of a pain to get to. The front/rear are rite there under the bumpers.

Very easy to get too and do maintenance on them. I would suggest getting new 2 million diff grease/fluid. . It's not really fluid though haha.. because if your going to do the maintenance. it might be a good time to put new grease in there. Since such a pain To get too.

When I got my Xmaxx the first thing I did was tare it apart. I wemt over every screw and nut. The mesh was way to tight. And both the front and rear diff were pretty low on fluid. They should be full over the spider gears. To the top of the diff cup. Then screw the main gear back onto the cup.

When you get a RTR rc from the factory. They really aren't truly ready to run out the box. There's some maintenance that should be done before driven. It's why you read reviews that day the Xmaxx is crap the gears strip to easy or the diff blow up on their first run.

Because they didn't check anything before driven. Number one rule always go over the RC either new or used go over the whole RC screw for screw. Put lock tight on metal to metal screws. Make sure they are all tight. All the fluids are full and every thing is greased properly. It pays off in the Long run for sure....

Yes the zeee lipos are 50c rating and I'm really impressed with them considering there pretty cheap compared to the 3s gensacearespammers lipos I have in my kraton exb 6s. I'm definitely going to be doing an over haul of maintenance and replace all the oil's and make sure it's all meshed correctly. I find doing maintenance just as fun as bashing so looking forward to it

 

[PeighDay]

Your the first person to ever say that with the different esc there wasn't any difference.. So this has gotten me wondering why since last night.To where I've been watching videos and researching the max6 esc in the Xmaxx all night and morning. hahaha.... love this hobby.

Also that you only are getting 140° temps running at 16/50. You should be getting tons of tourqe at that ratio. And the VXL really shouldn't be liking it to much either over heating like crazy. Are you running bigger fan on the esc as well as the rockets on the motor?

The VXL line of esc aren't built that great. And completely unreliable and they crap out all the time for the littlest reasons. It's got to be your gearing. It seems a bit mild to me. The stock pinon is a 18. With 54 spur and people burning up esc's all day everyday. With that set up. I even had the VXL in thermal shut down in my first run. 5 mins in to the very first lipo packs. Running in a grass feild and sany beach area..This is very weird to me. You definitely should have notice a better throttle response. And better continuous power..

When you had the max6 in the X. Did you try gearing it up to 18-20 over the 50 spur. The 100 C rating with your lipos should have the X flying?

I'm very interested in why you didn't see or feel any improvement over the VXL esc. The VXL is a completely under rated esc for the Xmaxx.

Again could be due to me being a novice but I was expecting a huge difference once I put in the Max6. Throttle response did seem better. For the motor fans I am using the rocket / Surpass 35mm fans like I mentioned. I believe they have a higher RPM then the stock ones and can notice the significant amount of difference in airflow they make.

You can check my video here to see / hear the difference.

I tried 18/54 gearing to start with and then went to a 50t spur. Took the whole truck apart and checked all the diffs after the 2nd run. Made sure the center diff rolled nice and smooth with no motor in it. Replaced center diff with silicone ear plugs. I put 100k front and rear like I mentioned in my previous post but just replaced the diff fluids last night to 50k front and 30k in the rear. See how I like that better. I haven't had it thermal shutdown yet as I watch my temp pretty closely like I mentioned. Once I see it get to around 140 / 150 I let it cool down a bit. Again not sure if that's a low temp for that gearing. I also tried 18/50 gearing which was nice but I like having the little extra torque and cooler temps with a smaller pinon. Here is a video of it on 18/50 gearing with 100k/silicone/100k setup.

Sorry I don't understand what you mean about the lipos having the X flying? These are the batteries that I currently use.

In all I would say it probably gave the truck about a 5-10% gain in performance but I don't feel it's worth spending the money on the ESC unless the VLX-8s goes out or you are going to upgrade the motor in the process.

I was going to go down that road of putting in a Max5 paired with a HobbyStar 800 / 1100kv and some mod 1.5 gears like yours but decided against it due to not wanting to add a bunch of extra weight to the truck. I actually have a WFO receiver box and ESC plate that I was going to use for installing a Max5 still just sitting in my parts box. I think it's just a personal preference thing really on how your want the Xmaxx to perform / behave.

 

[STONER RC]

Yes the zeee lipos are 50c rating and I'm really impressed with them considering there pretty cheap compared to the 3s gensacearespammers lipos I have in my kraton exb 6s. I'm definitely going to be doing an over haul of maintenance and replace all the oil's and make sure it's all meshed correctly. I find doing maintenance just as fun as bashing so looking forward to it

100% agree with you about wrenching on them. I absolutely love to wrench it like therapy to me. I can get lost in a build or upgrade or just maintenance for hrs... its part of the hobby. Some people don't get that and think they will never break.. hahaha thats a joke.

 

[STONER RC]

Again could be due to me being a novice but I was expecting a huge difference once I put in the Max6. Throttle response did seem better. For the motor fans I am using the rocket / Surpass 35mm fans like I mentioned. I believe they have a higher RPM then the stock ones and can notice the significant amount of difference in airflow they make.

You can check my video here to see / hear the difference.

I tried 18/54 gearing to start with and then went to a 50t spur. Took the whole truck apart and checked all the diffs after the 2nd run. Made sure the center diff rolled nice and smooth with no motor in it. Replaced center diff with silicone ear plugs. I put 100k front and rear like I mentioned in my previous post but just replaced the diff fluids last night to 50k front and 30k in the rear. See how I like that better. I haven't had it thermal shutdown yet as I watch my temp pretty closely like I mentioned. Once I see it get to around 140 / 150 I let it cool down a bit. Again not sure if that's a low temp for that gearing. I also tried 18/50 gearing which was nice but I like having the little extra torque and cooler temps with a smaller pinon. Here is a video of it on 18/50 gearing with 100k/silicone/100k setup.

Sorry I don't understand what you mean about the lipos having the X flying? These are the batteries that I currently use.

In all I would say it probably gave the truck about a 5-10% gain in performance but I don't feel it's worth spending the money on the ESC unless the VLX-8s goes out or you are going to upgrade the motor in the process.

I was going to go down that road of putting in a Max5 paired with a HobbyStar 800 / 1100kv and some mod 1.5 gears like yours but decided against it due to not wanting to add a bunch of extra weight to the truck. I actually have a WFO receiver box and ESC plate that I was going to use for installing a Max5 still just sitting in my parts box. I think it's just a personal preference thing really on how your want the Xmaxx to perform / behave.

Oh nice.. you change your diff fluid. Sweet. It turns much better for you know. And you should notice the inside front tire doesn't balloon as much while turning also. With the earplugs in center. It should keep the front wheels down a little more.

The thing with changing out the esc. Is that honestly Traxxas electronics suck big time. They have always suck even back when they first came out. It's the one thing that truly sucks about Traxxas.. they need to put more money into R&D on their electronics.

And they tried with the VXL. but they feel short again as always. Especially with the VXL in the Xmaxx. It definitely works and they are able to sell it as a RTR. But that's about all it good for.

It's not the rite esc for delivering or handling the power and amp/voltage draw. That the 8s 1250kv motor need to move that heavy beast of a truck.. The esc has a small window of gearing ratio to run. With it not over heating and catching fire. Especially with the little fan it has.

It's usually the first to go along with the servo next or vice-versa. The servos are 100% crap made with all plastic gears with no real power or any good tourqe. The servo has a hard time turning those big as* tires of the X with all the weight of truck sitting on them.

They have crapped/burnt out on alot of people. Just running it in grass or sand or dirt. Just turning the wheels after working on it while its sitting on the ground or work bench which puts alot of strain/stress on the servo.

That will usually always end up being a bad day. And over stressing the servo while using it at its max. The factory usually sets them on 100% for quality controll testing before shipping then out. And they never turn them down to a respectable good percentage for use. Which is another reason the servo will burn out.

Alot of people don't know any better. They just go to the hobby shop. And ask whats the biggest badest truck/ car they have. That everyone is using or talking about , or the newest RC they have. When they want or thinking about getting into the hobby the first time. And they end up buying the Xmaxx.

I've seen videos of guys pulling the truck out of the box for the first time. And not even look over it. Or check the mesh of gears. Or the diff fluids or shocks. Or go threw the manual before driving it.

And they strip the gears before the end of driveway. Or they think the Auto flip is the best thing ever. And keep holding the button untill it flips or breaks.Not realizing it only works on certain types of ground. And they blow apart their diffs gears or rip the pin/spur. to shreds. Then bitch and moan about the Xmaxx. That it is a pc of poop truck. That burnt up or broke with in the first lipo pack of run time. Auto flip is another bad idea of traxxas to install on the trucks.


But most RC enthusiasts that run traxxas vehicles will tell you. They love Taxxas vehicles. But the electronics 100% suck and the first thing to do is pull them out. So they dont have to worry about fires.

Like the esc over heating issues. And melting or catching fire. From just running laps on grass. Or continued full throttle runs back and forth at the park. Amd once you start upgrades the esc can't take any added weight to the truck. It's basically at its max out of the box..

With a max6 or max5. Or the castle monster x 8s, or the XLX2. They are much better quality built esc. They can handle much bigger heavier truck with bigger powerful motors and handle tons of power and amps draw. With much better heat sinks and cooling fans. Better bec voltage adjustability. Better power distribution and set up. With much more to control and fine tune.Then the traxass esc.

Traxxas doesn't really have any real specs on their electronics. Only that it take 33v. There is also no adjustability or fine tunning in regards to punch control levels or with any other tunning abilities.

i really dont like the new ID connectors or they way.They try to say you can only use their lipos on their rc and with their charger. Whitch their lipos also suck. Over rated, over priced under C rated lipos. That are really made for someone that doesn't know any better or what they are doing and kids..

To be honest the the Hobbywing 1100kv didn't add that much more weight. The parts that will add alot weight. Is when guys start adding all the aluminium parts they can find or see. Thinking they are stronger. The RCs are designed with break points in them. So adding the stronger aluminum parts. You just move the break point from a 10$ part to the inner parts of the truck that costs alot more.

I personally don't like to many aluminum parts. I won't buy any aluminum parts that are part of the drive and suspension. Or any part that takes the hit from landings. Like A arms, shock towers, Shock mounts. I like the plastic parts they actually have a bit of flex to them. Which helps on hard landing. There is also little tricks you can do to the plastic parts. That will help them become a little strong and flexible.

And it is all about personal preference. And what you want to get from your Rc. And how you want it to look and drive. How fast or how durable it is to take the landing from being launched. That's the best part of the hobby no two rcs are the same. But they all bring us joy amd happiness. When driven and bashing. Untill you break it .then bring it home fix it and do it all over again next weekend... .