woo hoo finally have a reason to post in here

[bgbdwlf2500]

So any tuning tips, things to look out for? I ran it for a little bit but I definately need to tune it. It ran pretty good for a minute and then got worse and worse and cut off on its own. It was sputtering just giving it any throttle

 

[tmaxxfreek]

Clean your air filter, go back to factory settings, shouldnt have to tune much, Carb may need a good cleaning, you happy with it so far?

 

[bgbdwlf2500]

Right now I like the idea of it. I like the size for sure and the fact that its a gas engine leads me to believe that once its tuned I'll be able to start it with no issue and not have to tune. I'll have to learn how to work on it but that doesn't bother me. I'm sure I'll love it when its running good.

 

[Rolex]

It's very unlikely that it's a tuning issue with that engine. I'd guess it's a problem with your gasoline octane and your percentage of oil in the mix.
Find out what he ran before you got it.

 

[bgbdwlf2500]

Its SNGS Rolex. He said it wasn't running good on the top end... once I started it it will start on the first pull...I need to learn how to tune it. As of now I set it back to what I assume is factory settings and will try to tune it tomorrow but not around my apt, its loud and attracts to much attention

 

[Rolex]

Oh, okay. Then it's a carb adjustment more than likely.

 

[bgbdwlf2500]

I hope so. Hopefully he will chime in and let me know what if anything he did to fix it..

 

[Rolex]

more than likely it's a Walbro or a Weber carb. Those are in 99% of all small 2 stroke engines. They are also subject to air leaks just like our nitro carbs.

 

[slowngreen]

First off, congrats! It/they are so damn cool just from the size. Blew my mind when I opened the box since I hadnt seen one in person before that.

The carb on it right now is a Walbro. The other carb that I sent is the stock one and is a....I forget.

This is what I used to tune it.

1) Locate the low and high RPM jets on the side of the carb - they are usually marked with a L and a H. Turn both jets completely CLOCKWISE ( to the fully closed position).
2) Rotate the Low jet counter-clockwise to 1 and 1/4 turns open.
3) Rotate the High jet counter-clockwise to approx 1 and 3/8 turns open.
4) Now, start the engine. You may need to turn the Low jet slightly one way or the other for the engine to start.
5) Adjust the Low jet as desired until the idle is where you like it. Turning clockwise ("CLOSING" THE JET) will produce a higher idle, and counterclockwise ("OPENING" THE JET) will produce a lower idle (and eventually flood and the engine will kill, if you turn it too far).
6) Open the throttle lever to full blast. Adjust the High jet until you get maximum RPMs. Note: this will probably be REALLY LOUD. Listen for the highest-pitched whine to tell you where max RPMs are hit. AFTER YOU FIND THE MAX RPM SETTING, TURN THE HIGH JET COUNTER-CLOCKWISE ("OPEN" THE JET) APPROX 1/16TH OF A TURN TO ENSURE YOU HAVE SUFFICIENT GAS/OIL MIX TO COOL THE ENGINE PROPERLY.

Note: The above are just general guidelines. You may need to adjust both the H and L screws once you begin driving, depending on engine loading, altitude, humidity, etc. The trick is to find settings that work well for you, and stick with them.

Here is some helpful information regarding common carburetor tuning problems:

If your engine stutters at full throttle and cannot reach full RPMs:
The high jet is too far open. Close the jet by turning it clockwise slightly, and then ride-test. If no improvement, repeat until desired results are achieved. Once you have found a workable setting, open the jet approx 1/16 of a turn to ensure sufficient fuel/air mix.

If your engine bogs out when transitioning from low speed:
The high jet is too far closed. Open the jet by turning it counterclockwise until you are at least 1 1/2 turns open, and then gradually close the jet until performance is as desired. Poor engine compression, blocked exhausts, and very heavy engine loading can all also cause bogging.

If your engine idles very fast and kills if you attempt to slow the idle:
You may have an air leak in your intake. An easy way to check for leaks is to spray the intake manifold and area surrounding it with WD-40. If the idle changes after you spray the WD-40, there is an air leak. Common areas for leaks are between the manifold and the cylinder, and between the carb and the intake manifold. Inspect the manifold, carb gasket, and intake gasket for cracks or other signs of damage, and replace if necessary.

If your engine idles but then slowly kills:
Your low jet is too far open. Close the low jet by turning it clockwise until a stable idle is achieved.

Took me a bit to get it figured out but once I got it tuned it ran great till the sputter on the top end happened. Still ran fine on the low end though.

 

[bgbdwlf2500]

I printed it out sng. Gonna try to tune it tomorrow. It started pretty good and ran what I thought was OK. Started it again and it didn't want to run hardly at all. I know the weather is completely different where u are tho so I may have to start over

 

[slowngreen]

Yeah I'm 4100 ft. above sea level if that makes a difference. Good luck bro, once you get it-its hella cool. Bet that 29cc will be super sick if you swap it too.

 

[bgbdwlf2500]

I'm at sea level....lol I don't want to swap until I get used to the 26

 

[Rolex]

Yeah I'm 4100 ft. above sea level

I'm at sea level

Well there's EXACTLY what the problem is. It's used to running without oxygen and now it's hyper ventilated.
If you brought SNG down to sea level he'd be all screwed up too.

 

[tmaxxfreek]

I dont think the weather will be a huge factor in tuning the 2 stroke .....all i had to do to mine was lean the hsn about 1/4 turn the and i havent touched it since, i can run on a 50 degree day and it be 70 the next and it run the same both days

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[bgbdwlf2500]

Sng had the clunk on the return to the tank. It would idle all day long once I reset the needles but when i started running it, it wouldnt idle well and the adjustments didnt do anything on the high end. found out it was losing fuel, now I'm just a few small turns away from it being right.

 

[slowngreen]

^^^Sweet.

 

[Rolex]

With those engines, weather, like temp and humidity, is not a factor. Elevation absolutely is.

 

[bgbdwlf2500]

Changed the fuel pickup to the correct side and got it running better but it doesn't run good once it gets warm/hot. It starts losing its tune or something. Wont idle and then the high end changes too. Any ideas?
Its almost like a nitro that needs a new piston and sleeve.

 

[savagefan04]

A couple of quick items to check sure you have a good seal on the pipe side gasket and the head gasket. If it's a 2 bolt head some have been know to blow out. I would start with the pipe first since it's simpler. Then move on to check the isolator on the carb. Make sure it has a good seal. Lastly remember the needle movement are very small...like 1/16 small...