Wltoys 144001 feelings?

[Noah Zimmerman]

I got my 144001 about a month ago. So far I really like it, kinda. Performance and price are both pretty great. The thing rips out of the box. First couple of packs were great. The motor and esc do get a little too hot but lipo cutoff seems decent. Then I sent it off a one foot jump and one of the upper front shock caps snapped off. Picked up some all metal Amazon replacements. Shocks were too long and the lower swivel balls were too wide to fit into the a-arms. Just used the metal tops on the stock shock bodies and it worked out. I then added some bigger remo tires and wheels which are great but then after two packs I found that both front axles had bent. Now I have some new axles on order. Just curious of how other people's experience has been with these cars. So far I am willing to upgrade some more before giving up hope on this car.

 

[pug]

Imo, WLToys RCs are the best at speed running and sitting on the shelf, they aren’t made that well from what I have seen and heard about them (I don’t own one, so I could be wrong).

 

[killster]

I got my 144001 about a month ago. So far I really like it, kinda. Performance and price are both pretty great. The thing rips out of the box. First couple of packs were great. The motor and esc do get a little too hot but lipo cutoff seems decent. Then I sent it off a one foot jump and one of the upper front shock caps snapped off. Picked up some all metal Amazon replacements. Shocks were too long and the lower swivel balls were too wide to fit into the a-arms. Just used the metal tops on the stock shock bodies and it worked out. I then added some bigger remo tires and wheels which are great but then after two packs I found that both front axles had bent. Now I have some new axles on order. Just curious of how other people's experience has been with these cars. So far I am willing to upgrade some more before giving up hope on this car.

when it lands what does it land on? i know my children bash the 144001 and other wl buggies and have not had any problems but alignment. if you want to do jumps and id go for something that i could control in the air the wl buggies just flip half way and crash on the roof usually, but i only try and land on soft grass.

 

[Noah Zimmerman]

when it lands what does it land on? i know my children bash the 144001 and other wl buggies and have not had any problems but alignment. if you want to do jumps and id go for something that i could control in the air the wl buggies just flip half way and crash on the roof usually, but i only try and land on soft grass.

I landed on dirt. I'm not looking for a big jump car, just want it to be somewhat durable. really do like this car but I think some parts on it are cheap and may be easier to break. I did pack the diffs and set the suspension when I got it. Runs smooth and quiet and plenty fast. It also seems many of the upgrade parts available are not of the best quality. I wish there was an option for thicker drive shafts.

 

[killster]

I landed on dirt. I'm not looking for a big jump car, just want it to be somewhat durable. really do like this car but I think some parts on it are cheap and may be easier to break. I did pack the diffs and set the suspension when I got it. Runs smooth and quiet and plenty fast. It also seems many of the upgrade parts available are not of the best quality. I wish there was an option for thicker drive shafts.

Says upgraded metal.. this isn't good?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wltoys-144...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

[Noah Zimmerman]

Says upgraded metal.. this isn't good?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wltoys-144...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

The stock center driveshaft(prop shaft) seems fine. I was talking about the front and rear, cvd shafts and dogbones. Even the upgraded shafts seem thin

 

[killster]

The stock center driveshaft(prop shaft) seems fine. I was talking about the front and rear, cvd shafts and dogbones. Even the upgraded shafts seem thin

i guess i haven't been lucky enough to run mine hard enough for that to show up yet.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

The stock center driveshaft(prop shaft) seems fine. I was talking about the front and rear, cvd shafts and dogbones. Even the upgraded shafts seem thin

The shafts may seem thin, but bear in mind, this is a 1/14 scale buggy, not a 1/5 scale Arrma basher, so they don't need to be super thick. You'll only really start bending shafts when bashing HARD, lots of crashes, and extreme power.

Imo, WLToys RCs are the best at speed running and sitting on the shelf, they aren’t made that well from what I have seen and heard about them (I don’t own one, so I could be wrong).

No offense, but most of the Wltoys offerings are very good budget cars. I have a "modrately" upgraded 144001, and I have over $200 in it RN, and that's not including the other stuff I got for it that's either not in use, or spares. They are better than you think, once you get one, you'll see. They litterally have a cult following, many YT channels started because of the Wltoys stuff. Check out quadifyrc.com, he's very knowledgeable about the 144001/124019 platform. There are also many FB groups on the Wltoys cars. Again, I just want to express my thoughts, not trying to appose anyone here! The Wltoys cars have some downfalls, like not super tight tolerences on some parts (shims can help, or wider bearings in some cases), and the part avalability isn't as good as Traxxas, but not too bad.

I landed on dirt. I'm not looking for a big jump car, just want it to be somewhat durable. really do like this car but I think some parts on it are cheap and may be easier to break. I did pack the diffs and set the suspension when I got it. Runs smooth and quiet and plenty fast. It also seems many of the upgrade parts available are not of the best quality. I wish there was an option for thicker drive shafts.

If you want some thicker, custom made shafts, ask around on some 1440001/124019 groups like on FB, also ask Quadify, quadifyrc.com. He can connect you to some people who make that stuff. It may not be as cheap as the stock shafts, but the custom ones are designed for those crazy 3s-4s speed run 144001s/124019s.

 

[Mrgoodwrench35]

I have no experience with that particular model but I'm currently running 2 of their small drift cars and love them. The k969 and the 284131 in particular. Both are very similar to the kyosho mini z but cost about 1/4 the price. IMO, they serve a specific purpose. I can learn to drift race on cheap models and then step up to a better quality car after I've gotten the hang of it (less scratches on the mini z). I don't think I"d consider modifying or upgrading them. I'd just step up to a more reputable (and of course pricey) hobby grade car that tend to have a better aftermarket parts selection available.

 

[entropy]

The Team AE Reflex 14B is a bit more money but includes brushless. The car itself is very tough and well engineered, I’d steer people to one of those for just a bit more money.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

I have no experience with that particular model but I'm currently running 2 of their small drift cars and love them. The k969 and the 284131 in particular. Both are very similar to the kyosho mini z but cost about 1/4 the price. IMO, they serve a specific purpose. I can learn to drift race on cheap models and then step up to a better quality car after I've gotten the hang of it (less scratches on the mini z). I don't think I"d consider modifying or upgrading them. I'd just step up to a more reputable (and of course pricey) hobby grade car that tend to have a better aftermarket parts selection available.

Dude, the small Wltoys 1/28 scale cars have like a cult following, and tons of parts!

The Team AE Reflex 14B is a bit more money but includes brushless. The car itself is very tough and well engineered, I’d steer people to one of those for just a bit more money.

I'm aware of that one, but it costs significantly more than the LC Racing stuff, and the LC Racing stuff handle like a dream, so I've heard. They are pretty tough too, and are built as race cars, so lots of tuning can be done. The Wltoys stuff is very tuneable too, albiet minus the slipper clutch and oil filled diffs, ect. The Reflex 14B is a little overpriced IMO, compared to the LC Racing stuff. A few little upgrades and the LC Racing cars will be 90%+ as tough (like metal knuckles, C-hubs, rear hubs, heavy duty A-arms)

 

[Slick2500]

I have a 144001, an EMB-1 and an EMB-TGH so I am very familiar with both platforms and the many many shortcomings of the 144001. Shortly put the EMB series is hands down better in every way. Like @pug mentioned the 144001s seem to make better speed runners and shelf queens than bashers, the durability just isn't there in the 144001 for it to be even halfway decent as a basher. The aluminum parts are too soft, the plastic is too weak and the drivetrain is lacking in tunability. My 144001 is actually running LC Racing a arms, hubs, caster blocks, drive shafts, wing mount, wing turnbuckles, steering bellcrank, bellcrank posts and shocks.

From left to right, Wl Toys 144001, LC Racing EMB-1, LC Racing EMB-TGH, Vaterra Kalahari and 1/18 Ecx Ruckus.

The shafts may seem thin, but bear in mind, this is a 1/14 scale buggy, not a 1/5 scale Arrma basher, so they don't need to be super thick. You'll only really start bending shafts when bashing HARD, lots of crashes, and extreme power.

No offense, but most of the Wltoys offerings are very good budget cars. I have a "modrately" upgraded 144001, and I have over $200 in it RN, and that's not including the other stuff I got for it that's either not in use, or spares. They are better than you think, once you get one, you'll see. They litterally have a cult following, many YT channels started because of the Wltoys stuff. Check out quadifyrc.com, he's very knowledgeable about the 144001/124019 platform. There are also many FB groups on the Wltoys cars. Again, I just want to express my thoughts, not trying to appose anyone here! The Wltoys cars have some downfalls, like not super tight tolerences on some parts (shims can help, or wider bearings in some cases), and the part avalability isn't as good as Traxxas, but not too bad.

If you want some thicker, custom made shafts, ask around on some 1440001/124019 groups like on FB, also ask Quadify, quadifyrc.com. He can connect you to some people who make that stuff. It may not be as cheap as the stock shafts, but the custom ones are designed for those crazy 3s-4s speed run 144001s/124019s.

They bend like toothpicks though. They are a very common part that people want to upgrade. Only problem is all of the aftermarket ones are just as crappy or worse than the stock ones. Currently the best option I have found is to run LC Racing dog bones on all 4 corners with some orings in the front diff outdrives to keep the front ones from falling out. I want to make some carbon fiber ones but not sure what size tube I need.

Dude, the small Wltoys 1/28 scale cars have like a cult following, and tons of parts!

I'm aware of that one, but it costs significantly more than the LC Racing stuff, and the LC Racing stuff handle like a dream, so I've heard. They are pretty tough too, and are built as race cars, so lots of tuning can be done. The Wltoys stuff is very tuneable too, albiet minus the slipper clutch and oil filled diffs, ect. The Reflex 14B is a little overpriced IMO, compared to the LC Racing stuff. A few little upgrades and the LC Racing cars will be 90%+ as tough (like metal knuckles, C-hubs, rear hubs, heavy duty A-arms)

The Reflex is actually cheaper than the EMB-1, by $1. This isn't even including any coupon codes.
Reflex 14B $199.99 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-a...FBpp1Yu0U9vZvOwtkyfD8LMi3Mx70zpxoCCvoQAvD_BwE

This is seriously the cheapest ready to run EMB-1 I could find $200.99 https://usa.banggood.com/LC-RACING-...CYu1vBBNgITu91aIXvWO_lDwBnOyUMYhoC6v8QAvD_BwE

This is the cheapest almost ready to run I could find for sale in the States $198.99 and you still need a radio system https://casterracingmi.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=173&product_id=1870

 

[Fishguy697754]

I got my 144001 about a month ago. So far I really like it, kinda. Performance and price are both pretty great. The thing rips out of the box. First couple of packs were great. The motor and esc do get a little too hot but lipo cutoff seems decent. Then I sent it off a one foot jump and one of the upper front shock caps snapped off. Picked up some all metal Amazon replacements. Shocks were too long and the lower swivel balls were too wide to fit into the a-arms. Just used the metal tops on the stock shock bodies and it worked out. I then added some bigger remo tires and wheels which are great but then after two packs I found that both front axles had bent. Now I have some new axles on order. Just curious of how other people's experience has been with these cars. So far I am willing to upgrade some more before giving up hope on this car.

I have a wltoys 144001 as well and I drove it off a 2m high ramp(20mph) concrete landing and it survived.

 

[Noah Zimmerman]

I have a 144001, an EMB-1 and an EMB-TGH so I am very familiar with both platforms and the many many shortcomings of the 144001. Shortly put the EMB series is hands down better in every way. Like @pug mentioned the 144001s seem to make better speed runners and shelf queens than bashers, the durability just isn't there in the 144001 for it to be even halfway decent as a basher. The aluminum parts are too soft, the plastic is too weak and the drivetrain is lacking in tunability. My 144001 is actually running LC Racing a arms, hubs, caster blocks, drive shafts, wing mount, wing turnbuckles, steering bellcrank, bellcrank posts and shocks.

From left to right, Wl Toys 144001, LC Racing EMB-1, LC Racing EMB-TGH, Vaterra Kalahari and 1/18 Ecx Ruckus.
View attachment 143242



They bend like toothpicks though. They are a very common part that people want to upgrade. Only problem is all of the aftermarket ones are just as crappy or worse than the stock ones. Currently the best option I have found is to run LC Racing dog bones on all 4 corners with some orings in the front diff outdrives to keep the front ones from falling out. I want to make some carbon fiber ones but not sure what size tube I need.



The Reflex is actually cheaper than the EMB-1, by $1. This isn't even including any coupon codes.
Reflex 14B $199.99 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-a...FBpp1Yu0U9vZvOwtkyfD8LMi3Mx70zpxoCCvoQAvD_BwE

This is seriously the cheapest ready to run EMB-1 I could find $200.99 https://usa.banggood.com/LC-RACING-...CYu1vBBNgITu91aIXvWO_lDwBnOyUMYhoC6v8QAvD_BwE

This is the cheapest almost ready to run I could find for sale in the States $198.99 and you still need a radio system https://casterracingmi.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=173&product_id=1870

Nice line up there. Just looking at the picture I would guess the Tgh and Ruckus might be the best bashers of the group? I am still running my 144001 after multiple repairs. It is still really fun and fast but I am much more cautious running it. Any rough landing or minor impact could bend or brake more parts. I am worried any time I need to buy replacement parts that may not fit or break just as easily. So far I have replaced: broken front shock; broken front a-arms; broken front hinge pin holders; bent front CD shafts; bent prop shaft. Also, the motor gets way too hot all the time, I'm surprised the motor and esc have not burned up yet. For now, I will focus on my Mt10 and senton for bashing fun. The 144001 is cool but maybe just not worth it in the long run.

 

[Slick2500]

Nice line up there. Just looking at the picture I would guess the Tgh and Ruckus might be the best bashers of the group? I am still running my 144001 after multiple repairs. It is still really fun and fast but I am much more cautious running it. Any rough landing or minor impact could bend or brake more parts. I am worried any time I need to buy replacement parts that may not fit or break just as easily. So far I have replaced: broken front shock; broken front a-arms; broken front hinge pin holders; bent front CD shafts; bent prop shaft. Also, the motor gets way too hot all the time, I'm surprised the motor and esc have not burned up yet. For now, I will focus on my Mt10 and senton for bashing fun. The 144001 is cool but maybe just not worth it in the long run.

Yeah the TGH is like a mini Tekno ET48.3. The EMB-1 is setup for indoor offroad carpet with all of the LC Racing carbon fiber bits and some of the stuff from EAC Engineering. The 144001 the stock electronics actually burned up, motor let out the magic smoke and the esc got so hot it melted. The new power system even driving it lightly the esc hits thermal. I'm almost positive the motor mount is made wrong causing the spur and pinion to bind against each other. I haven't had a chance to run the Ruckus since I built the driveshafts because my normal spot is in a construction zone now, last time I drove by they had cut down all the trees, took down the fence that was there, put up a sign that says park closed then taped off the area with caution tape. My new spot has too many large rocks for my minis so I haven't run them in a while.

And the Kalahari is an onroad basher. https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/vaterra-kalahari.127549/

I think I have build threads for most of my cars on here except for the Ruckus, that is on the ECX Forums.

 

[The_RC_Dude]

I have a 144001, an EMB-1 and an EMB-TGH so I am very familiar with both platforms and the many many shortcomings of the 144001. Shortly put the EMB series is hands down better in every way. Like @pug mentioned the 144001s seem to make better speed runners and shelf queens than bashers, the durability just isn't there in the 144001 for it to be even halfway decent as a basher. The aluminum parts are too soft, the plastic is too weak and the drivetrain is lacking in tunability. My 144001 is actually running LC Racing a arms, hubs, caster blocks, drive shafts, wing mount, wing turnbuckles, steering bellcrank, bellcrank posts and shocks.

From left to right, Wl Toys 144001, LC Racing EMB-1, LC Racing EMB-TGH, Vaterra Kalahari and 1/18 Ecx Ruckus.
View attachment 143242



They bend like toothpicks though. They are a very common part that people want to upgrade. Only problem is all of the aftermarket ones are just as crappy or worse than the stock ones. Currently the best option I have found is to run LC Racing dog bones on all 4 corners with some orings in the front diff outdrives to keep the front ones from falling out. I want to make some carbon fiber ones but not sure what size tube I need.



The Reflex is actually cheaper than the EMB-1, by $1. This isn't even including any coupon codes.
Reflex 14B $199.99 https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-a...FBpp1Yu0U9vZvOwtkyfD8LMi3Mx70zpxoCCvoQAvD_BwE

This is seriously the cheapest ready to run EMB-1 I could find $200.99 https://usa.banggood.com/LC-RACING-...CYu1vBBNgITu91aIXvWO_lDwBnOyUMYhoC6v8QAvD_BwE

This is the cheapest almost ready to run I could find for sale in the States $198.99 and you still need a radio system https://casterracingmi.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=173&product_id=1870

Woah, who knew you had all this lot! I think the 144001 is still one of the best value RC cars under $100, other brands have tried copying it, but have failed, because of friction shocks, weak drivelines, underpowered, ect. The 144001 isn't meant to be bashed like an Xmaxx, it's only 1/14 scale after all, and $80! I love my 144001, it has some LC-R hop-ups too (my own abbreviation!), and hey, we're both rocking the TBR front bumpers, they're awesome right!? I will say the metal is on the softer side, but that also means most bent metal parts can bent right back in shape with vise grips, and pliers or maybe a hammer. I straightened out my front shock tower after my uncle crashed it, with a pair of vise grips and pliers. There are now a few little gouges from those tools, but it's as straight as stock. You can also get stronger versions of some metal parts, from Wltoys or LC-Racing, though with the latter, do check for fitment. Some LC-R parts will need to be shimmed in Wltoys cars.

Of course, the LC-R stuff is like the Rolls Royce of the 1/14 and 1/12 scale cars, you just can't beat them! Bear in mind, the Wltoys is almost 1/3rd of them price of the LC-R cars. If you have the $$, get the LC-R cars. If you're on a budget like me, get the Wltoys cars and hop them up a little. I have a budget basher-oriented brushless system in mine, click my "Build Thread Contributor" badge to check the conversion out. I'm considering throwing in the "final" ultimate basher system in there eventually, a HobbyWing ESC and a 2838 or 2845 can size motor for maximum bashing, but it's fast and agile with the current 2440 motor I have in there. I also gotta get some better tires, mine are a bit worn, and I'll also be getting some metal knuckles, front caster blocks, and rear hubs eventually. I drive more conservatively, I don't go flat out all the time, so I haven't actually really broke anything in my 2+ years of owning my 144001. I've tinkered on it a lot, and changed a fair amount of stuff, and added some homemade upgrades too.

Run LC-R CVDs in the front, and LC-R dog bones, or better yet, CVDs all round. You'll need slightly thicker bearings to take up the extra slop, or shims to do the same thing, thicker bearings are the better route, more effecient, and more secure. I would take the LC-R EMB-1 over the Reflex, granted, I haven't seen many reviews on the Reflex yet. The EMB-1 just seems to handle sigificantly better, and it's more tuneable (I think) as it's built like a race car.

BTW I haven't bent any driveshafts yet on my 144001, and it's still running the stock ones, they'll get upgraded eventually, so many things I want

I'm all "waffled out" now (Kevin Talbot reference), you get the point, the Wltoys stuff isn't as bad as you make it out to be. And yes, the stock gearing on them is too high, it's really geared toward getting max speed.

Edit: I'm not trying to get into an argument here, I just want to share my two cents, and I think I'm pretty qualified to do that as I've had the car for over 2 years, and know a fair bit about these cars IMO

 

[Slick2500]

Woah, who knew you had all this lot! I think the 144001 is still one of the best value RC cars under $100, other brands have tried copying it, but have failed, because of friction shocks, weak drivelines, underpowered, ect. The 144001 isn't meant to be bashed like an Xmaxx, it's only 1/14 scale after all, and $80! I love my 144001, it has some LC-R hop-ups too (my own abbreviation!), and hey, we're both rocking the TBR front bumpers, they're awesome right!? I will say the metal is on the softer side, but that also means most bent metal parts can bent right back in shape with vise grips, and pliers or maybe a hammer. I straightened out my front shock tower after my uncle crashed it, with a pair of vise grips and pliers. There are now a few little gouges from those tools, but it's as straight as stock. You can also get stronger versions of some metal parts, from Wltoys or LC-Racing, though with the latter, do check for fitment. Some LC-R parts will need to be shimmed in Wltoys cars.

Of course, the LC-R stuff is like the Rolls Royce of the 1/14 and 1/12 scale cars, you just can't beat them! Bear in mind, the Wltoys is almost 1/3rd of them price of the LC-R cars. If you have the $$, get the LC-R cars. If you're on a budget like me, get the Wltoys cars and hop them up a little. I have a budget basher-oriented brushless system in mine, click my "Build Thread Contributor" badge to check the conversion out. I'm considering throwing in the "final" ultimate basher system in there eventually, a HobbyWing ESC and a 2838 or 2845 can size motor for maximum bashing, but it's fast and agile with the current 2440 motor I have in there. I also gotta get some better tires, mine are a bit worn, and I'll also be getting some metal knuckles, front caster blocks, and rear hubs eventually. I drive more conservatively, I don't go flat out all the time, so I haven't actually really broke anything in my 2+ years of owning my 144001. I've tinkered on it a lot, and changed a fair amount of stuff, and added some homemade upgrades too.

Run LC-R CVDs in the front, and LC-R dog bones, or better yet, CVDs all round. You'll need slightly thicker bearings to take up the extra slop, or shims to do the same thing, thicker bearings are the better route, more effecient, and more secure. I would take the LC-R EMB-1 over the Reflex, granted, I haven't seen many reviews on the Reflex yet. The EMB-1 just seems to handle sigificantly better, and it's more tuneable (I think) as it's built like a race car.

BTW I haven't bent any driveshafts yet on my 144001, and it's still running the stock ones, they'll get upgraded eventually, so many things I want

I'm all "waffled out" now (Kevin Talbot reference), you get the point, the Wltoys stuff isn't as bad as you make it out to be. And yes, the stock gearing on them is too high, it's really geared toward getting max speed.

Edit: I'm not trying to get into an argument here, I just want to share my two cents, and I think I'm pretty qualified to do that as I've had the car for over 2 years, and know a fair bit about these cars IMO

Last time I counted I had 20 cars.

Yes I agree for under $100 it is probably one of the better vehicles. They just went the wrong direction in a few places. I straightened out my front and rear shock towers with my hands......

Yeah I need a new esc for mine, currently it has some no name eBay esc in it that came in my Ruckus. Go with the LC Racing hubs and knuckles, they use a larger bearing 4x8x3 vs the 4x7x2.5 on the WL Toys. The saddest thing is when I broke or bent stuff I was driving it in an open parking lot, the only things I "hit" were the cracks in the asphalt. When the motor burnt up my buddy was running it around the indoor off road carpet track.

I'm not a huge fan of the LC cvds to be honest I had 2 sets of them, they all bent or broke. I only have 1 pair left. I have been running dog bones on all 4 corners with orings in the front outdrives for at least 2 years now and have not bent or broke one yet.

I bought the 144001 almost as soon as it came out just to compare it to the EMB-1, I've seriously probably only driven it like 6 times total. I still remember the first time I tried to run it, the cheap t plug on the esc was messed up and the battery wouldn't maintain contact..........

 

[The_RC_Dude]

Last time I counted I had 20 cars.

Yes I agree for under $100 it is probably one of the better vehicles. They just went the wrong direction in a few places. I straightened out my front and rear shock towers with my hands......

Yeah I need a new esc for mine, currently it has some no name eBay esc in it that came in my Ruckus. Go with the LC Racing hubs and knuckles, they use a larger bearing 4x8x3 vs the 4x7x2.5 on the WL Toys. The saddest thing is when I broke or bent stuff I was driving it in an open parking lot, the only things I "hit" were the cracks in the asphalt. When the motor burnt up my buddy was running it around the indoor off road carpet track.

I'm not a huge fan of the LC cvds to be honest I had 2 sets of them, they all bent or broke. I only have 1 pair left. I have been running dog bones on all 4 corners with orings in the front outdrives for at least 2 years now and have not bent or broke one yet.

I bought the 144001 almost as soon as it came out just to compare it to the EMB-1, I've seriously probably only driven it like 6 times total. I still remember the first time I tried to run it, the cheap t plug on the esc was messed up and the battery wouldn't maintain contact..........

20 cars of different types, or 20 cars from LC-Racing, Wltoys, and other smaller scale cars? The shock towers on my car weren't that soft, did you straighten it multiple times? If so, then the metal may get slightly weaker each time. I used a vise grip and pliers together to straighten the front tower as I said, the vise grip straightened it, while the needle nose pliers counter-acted the forces so there'd be less chance of cracking the diff case or something. I didn't want to push against the diff case and the screws with the vise grips for fear of breaking something. You must have pretty strong hands! There's not much leverage on the shock tower to straighten it out with your bare hands.

The 144001 is really meant to be the cheaper, basher oriented version of the EMB-1, in the sense that most bashers don't need all the preciseness and race-quality.

Yes, the LC-Racing wheel hub bearings are of a larger diameter than the Wltoys, so anyone reading this and planning to use LC-Racing plastic or metal hubs, keep in mind you'll need the LC-R bearings too. The larger bearings are good, as they are stronger. Seems like you drive your cars pretty hard.

Somebody above said that the Wltoys cars can't be bashers, and are only shelf queens or speed runners. I politely disagree, the 144001/124019 platofrm is very versatile, sure, you can leave them stock, make them speed runners capable of over 100mph (Richie from Driftomaniacs on YT acheived 102mph on 2s I think!), make them rally cars/on-road bashers, race cars (some aluminum upgrades and LC-Racing parts), light/moderate off-road bashers, and even perhaps a drift car.

With smart upgrades, tuning, and suitable electronics, you can turn these cars into moderate off-road bashers. You're not gonna send them to the moon at skateparks, but you'll be able to moderately bash them. Case in point, if you want to bash your cars HARD, get a bigger, tougher car like a Traxxas Maxx or Arrma Out-Cast.

As I said, the stock gearing is really for speed runs and getting that 30mph+. It's a known issue that the tall gearing is bad for tougher off-roading, and the motor and ESC will get pretty toasty, so for anyone wondering, the stock electronics will NOT take 3s. It will go up in smoke!

Oh, interesting, I thought the LC-R CVDs are some of the best you can get for these cars. Dog-bones cause more friction, so they're less efficient than CVDs, and in a crash, you can easily loose the dog-bones. Could you send a pic of the O-ring thing on the front dog-bones?

I'm not sure how you're getting all these issues, everybody's driving style varies, as well as the terrain. Seems like you got a bad experience, but most of us have had better.

 

[Marky's Lab]

I have LC racing x2 and WL toys x2.

When I break something on the WL toys I replace it with LC racing parts - LC racing parts are slightly more expensive, but last longer.

If you have the money up front; get a LC racing - if you don't have the money up front; get a WL toys and upgrade parts to LC racing when it breaks.

MOST things fit (see Quadify's site for a list).

In my opinion these are the best small scale (12th or 14th) buggy options
1. LC12b1
2. LC Truggy (+ buggy wheels for swapping back & forth)
3. WL124017 v2 (longer wheelbase makes it my pic over the shorter LC buggy)
4. LC 14th Scale
5. WL 14th scale (brushless > brushed)
5. Echine or WL toys brushless version 1 cars that cogg wayyyy to much

 

[Slick2500]

20 cars of different types, or 20 cars from LC-Racing, Wltoys, and other smaller scale cars? The shock towers on my car weren't that soft, did you straighten it multiple times? If so, then the metal may get slightly weaker each time. I used a vise grip and pliers together to straighten the front tower as I said, the vise grip straightened it, while the needle nose pliers counter-acted the forces so there'd be less chance of cracking the diff case or something. I didn't want to push against the diff case and the screws with the vise grips for fear of breaking something. You must have pretty strong hands! There's not much leverage on the shock tower to straighten it out with your bare hands.

The 144001 is really meant to be the cheaper, basher oriented version of the EMB-1, in the sense that most bashers don't need all the preciseness and race-quality.

Yes, the LC-Racing wheel hub bearings are of a larger diameter than the Wltoys, so anyone reading this and planning to use LC-Racing plastic or metal hubs, keep in mind you'll need the LC-R bearings too. The larger bearings are good, as they are stronger. Seems like you drive your cars pretty hard.

Somebody above said that the Wltoys cars can't be bashers, and are only shelf queens or speed runners. I politely disagree, the 144001/124019 platofrm is very versatile, sure, you can leave them stock, make them speed runners capable of over 100mph (Richie from Driftomaniacs on YT acheived 102mph on 2s I think!), make them rally cars/on-road bashers, race cars (some aluminum upgrades and LC-Racing parts), light/moderate off-road bashers, and even perhaps a drift car.

With smart upgrades, tuning, and suitable electronics, you can turn these cars into moderate off-road bashers. You're not gonna send them to the moon at skateparks, but you'll be able to moderately bash them. Case in point, if you want to bash your cars HARD, get a bigger, tougher car like a Traxxas Maxx or Arrma Out-Cast.

As I said, the stock gearing is really for speed runs and getting that 30mph+. It's a known issue that the tall gearing is bad for tougher off-roading, and the motor and ESC will get pretty toasty, so for anyone wondering, the stock electronics will NOT take 3s. It will go up in smoke!

Oh, interesting, I thought the LC-R CVDs are some of the best you can get for these cars. Dog-bones cause more friction, so they're less efficient than CVDs, and in a crash, you can easily loose the dog-bones. Could you send a pic of the O-ring thing on the front dog-bones?

I'm not sure how you're getting all these issues, everybody's driving style varies, as well as the terrain. Seems like you got a bad experience, but most of us have had better.

From all sorts of companies. Oh I guess I have 21 cars.
Arrma Outcast 6s BLX
Arrma Kraton 6s EXB - https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/slicks-kraton-6s-exb.46234/
Arrma Typhon 3s BLX
Arrma Senton 3s BLX
Team Associated RC10B2 Team Kit - https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=42673
Axial SCX10-II 2000 Jeep Cherokee XJ - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/slicks-axial-scx10-ii.121107/
Axial SCX24
Lc Racing EMB-1 -https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/tacon-valor-lc-racing-emb-tgh.122610/page-6
Lc Racing EMB-TGH
Wltoys 144001
Wltoys 12428
Traxxas Stampede 4x4 VXL - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/stampede-4x4-vxl.123205/
Traxxas Stampede 2wd - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/rebuilding-the-2pede.130112/
Traxxas Summit 1/10
Fs Racing Marauder
Hosim 9125
Vaterra Kalahari - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/threads/vaterra-kalahari.127549/
Tekno ET48.3 - https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/slicks-tekno-nt48-3-to-et48-3.31042/
Ecx Ruckus 2wd - https://www.ecxforum.com/threads/sllick2500s-ecx-ruckus-2wd.3197/
Ecx Ruckus 1/18 4wd - https://www.ecxforum.com/threads/slick2500s-ecx-ruckus-1-18-4wd.3206/
Hot Bodies D8Te - https://www.rctalk.com/forum/thread...ric-conversion-now-with-vorza-chassis.125839/

I only bent them the one time, like I said I had an early version of the 144001 a lot of people were bending them rather easily, but iirc they updated the shock towers at some point.

The Lc cvds are a little bit better than the Wl Toys but not by much, they are super thin like 2mm.
It's a little hard to see but there is a little oring in there.

Could have been first run issues that weren't caught until after they had already shipped them out.

Right now on my to do list are replacing the cheap Chinese 35a esc with a Hobbywing 16BL30, replace the stock motor mount and figure out a way to replace the stock gearing, trying to find a 0.7mod pinion with a 1/8th" inch bore is like trying to find hens teeth.