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With an $800 budget , what would you get?

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I was just rereading this thread. Lots of info to take in. So should I use Loctite on the wheel nuts? Which color?
Sometimes the subject will cause debate. For RCs that don't get/need tire changes often, I've been using medium strength (blue) threadlocker on wheel nuts for well over a decade now. Just like everything else, you can choose what wheel nuts you want to use. Thankfully, stock Associated Rival MT10 wheels are flanged, and serrated. I wouldn't use anything else but a flanged & serrated nut these days. Crank them things down, and if not using threadlocker on nuts, check nuts (left side more frequently) to see if you have them torqued down enough.
wheels coming GIF by FirstAndMonday


FYI: If you ever go ultra cheap on generic/no-name wheel/tire combos (that aren't mainstream brands) that are commonly found on eBay and Amazon, you run the risk of the wheel plastic blend not tolerating threadlocker too well. I would test threadlocker on an area other than the wheel's hex. Chances are slim that this will happen, but I've found out the hard way and ruined eight premounted wheel/tires before figuring out what was going on... hopefully ZD Racing has changed their wheel manufacturer for their truggies. 🫠🤯🤬
 
Sometimes the subject will cause debate. For RCs that don't get/need tire changes often, I've been using medium strength (blue) threadlocker on wheel nuts for well over a decade now. Just like everything else, you can choose what wheel nuts you want to use. Thankfully, stock Associated Rival MT10 wheels are flanged, and serrated. I wouldn't use anything else but a flanged & serrated nut these days. Crank them things down, and if not using threadlocker on nuts, check nuts (left side more frequently) to see if you have them torqued down enough.
wheels coming GIF by FirstAndMonday


FYI: If you ever go ultra cheap on generic/no-name wheel/tire combos (that aren't mainstream brands) that are commonly found on eBay and Amazon, you run the risk of the wheel plastic blend not tolerating threadlocker too well. I would test threadlocker on an area other than the wheel's hex. Chances are slim that this will happen, but I've found out the hard way and ruined eight premounted wheel/tires before figuring out what was going on... hopefully ZD Racing has changed their wheel manufacturer for their truggies. 🫠🤯🤬
Nice. So should I still use thread locker even with flanged and serrated wheels on the MT10?
 
Just keep it on the threads and you shouldn't have any trouble.
Cool. And I just got a FedEx notification that my MT10 finally shipped. And remember , I’m gonna show you pics of the connectors so you can tell me which LiPo to get.

This is from the YT vid. It’s an EC5 connector.
IMG_7578.webp
 
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I'd get two traxxas rustlers. One for after I bash the other one.
 
Cool. And I just got a FedEx notification that my MT10 finally shipped. And remember , I’m gonna show you pics of the connectors so you can tell me which LiPo to get.

This is from the YT vid. It’s an EC5 connector. View attachment 206272
Technically that is an IC5, which is fully compatible with EC5. Difference being the IC is the "smart" version of the EC5. The IC will allow use of smart features such as remote battery voltage monitoring, though you have to have all the compatible components to utilize the smart features. Not worth it IMO, but no issues having the IC5 on there.
 
Technically that is an IC5, which is fully compatible with EC5. Difference being the IC is the "smart" version of the EC5. The IC will allow use of smart features such as remote battery voltage monitoring, though you have to have all the compatible components to utilize the smart features. Not worth it IMO, but no issues having the IC5 on there.
Nice. Thanks , man 👍
 
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What's the price difference between the Hoovo and CNHL? I've had a couple sets of CNHL's, okay, but not any better than the other "ping-pong" brands for me. Cells go out of balance rather quickly in my experience. I just buy whatever has the specs I want for the best price, win some, lose some..
The HooVoo is $63 (for a pair) and the purple CNHL is also $63 (for a pair) .
The black and orange CNHL is $84 per pair.
 
The HooVoo is $63 (for a pair) and the purple CNHL is also $63 (for a pair) .
The black and orange CNHL is $84 per pair.
I'd skip the CNHL racing (orange) for either of the other two. I haven't tried the Hoovo myself.
I always hear folks say how good the SMC and Gens batts are, I'd like to try them but between cost, or potential disappointment of spending more than I should have.. I haven't tried them. Though there's also a possibility that I'll never want to use "lesser" batteries again. LOL
Darned if I do, darned if I don't.. the life of a broke dude I guess.🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤣
 
I'd skip the CNHL racing (orange) for either of the other two. I haven't tried the Hoovo myself.
I always hear folks say how good the SMC and Gens batts are, I'd like to try them but between cost, or potential disappointment of spending more than I should have.. I haven't tried them. Though there's also a possibility that I'll never want to use "lesser" batteries again. LOL
Darned if I do, darned if I don't.. the life of a broke dude I guess.🤦‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤣
Haha I understand. I’ll prob go with one of the less expensive pairs for now.
 
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