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Why so hot?

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h8z2luze

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Location
Oroville, Ca
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
My esavage gets really hot after not even a full run. I do run WOT a lot but still... It gets like 149 degrees thats the motor and esc temps give or take 5 degrees. It gets so hot it becomes intermitant like gas brake gas brake gas brake. I donno why. This is not normal and I just put new motors and diffs in it and it rolls freely. Any ideas? Its all stock by the way but running dual 3800mAh nimh packs.
 
Ya it did that to me once(get my batts and my esc really hot) Then it stop doing it(prob because i was using two 1500mah), weird because the damn thing comes with 2 3000'som mah batt pack. Maybe the esc can't hold up to too much mah power. Dunno what else it could be???
 
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The only thing I can think of it being perhaps, is one motor fighting against the other. Other than that, it shouldn't get that hot.
 
Maybe it is geared to high, you could try putting on a larger spur gear to reduce the load on the motors....
 
I don't claim to be a battery expert, but I do believe that Milliamp Hour (mAh) is a measure of the battery's capacity and nothing to do with its power output. Voltage would still be the same regardless of the mAh capacity.

My guess is that you are squeezing the trigger all at once from a dead stop, and the motors are having to work very hard and draw a lot of current to get the motors up to speed. Try easing into the throttle, maybe that will help.
 
The power pulsing is a symptom of the ESC overheating. I think HPI build it in as an 'early warning' mechanism for their ESCs to stop people toasting them. My WK did exactly the same thing when I ran 19T + 9.9V through it. The motor, ESC and battery all got really hot and the ESC started power pulsing on WOT. Leave it 2 mins and it cools off and goes okay but mine ran for about 2 mins then started doing it again.

However, I was running the ESC way over it's specified limits. All I can think is the motors you are using are not correct, or the batter packs are running too high voltage?

Are you still running original spec motors and are you still using 7.2V packs?

If so then either the work you are making it do is overstressing it (I found grass does that sometimes) or there is a fault with the ESC that's causing it to overheat. The latter seems unlikely though as the whole system is getting hot so it's more likely overwork.

What type of terrain are you running on, are their any steep slopes or jumps? Are there any places it would seem to be bogging down?

I'd also recommend switching to Deans connectors. Tamiya plugs like the ones HPI use suck.
 
I don't claim to be a battery expert, but I do believe that Milliamp Hour (mAh) is a measure of the battery's capacity and nothing to do with its power output. Voltage would still be the same regardless of the mAh capacity.

Increasing the mah also increases the amps the pack can output.

Run a fan on the esc to keep temps down.
 
Increasing the mah also increases the amps the pack can output.

Run a fan on the esc to keep temps down.


Ah, I still have much to learn. I've always just thought of it like having a bigger "fuel tank" to provide power. I've yet to find a good site to explain any battery wisdom.
 
thanks guys. it only gets hot when doing alot of wot. i was bashing it around not wot and it was fine. maybe its just my driving habits.
 
Yup; I personally soldered a pair of packs for it.

H8z2luze; did you ever get those two shrink-wrap's shrunk down?


Yes sir! All I can think of is stop doing so much WOT and maybe get some heatsyncs for the motors and a fan maybe for the esc?
 
That might be the way to go.... I've got a Vantec 80mm tornado; if you can shoehorn that into the E-Savage, it'll do the job (and then some)... Just wear some earplugs, lol.
 
Buy yourself one of those ram air setups for the supercharger kit on the Savage, and plumb the hose directly onto the ESC. Direct cooling.....
 
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