Which servos for Touring Car?

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Silent

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I've always run Futaba and Jr radios. Recently I bought an Airtronics M8 with the DSM module. For my Nitro NTC3 Touring car, Could anyone recommend which servos to use? I'm a little lost with the AT brand.
 
Have you look into hitec? Digital servo works nicely with spektrum + m8.

Here are the 2 most common digital servo with decent price.

5625mg


5645mg

By the way, I don't own any on-road. It is just a suggestion I am giving after searching for a upgrade myself.
 
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how much money are you willing to spend? if money isn't the issue i would suggest the KO Propo 2363 (111 oz-in; 0.08sec @ 6V). i have this servo in my xray and love it.
 
Jr has a some nice digi servo's as well, with similar specs as slogins suggestion.
JR8800s.
About $110 each.
 
Dang, this is confusing as hell but I'm starting to see some patterns. Heres some more Q's.....

* Will I get better performance from a digital servo?

* How do I know if my AT-M8 has the Z connector type? (It has a black antenna w/blue screen)

* I should be looking for Torque over 100 oz-in? @6V
(I wouldn't think this would be as important for the throttle)

* And speed less than .15/ 60 degrees? @6V

* Does anyone remember which RC Mag had the servo shootout?

When I took my JR Z590 servo out after a season of racing I could feel the play in the gears, so I don't think I want to go aluminum. Is any particular brand more reliable? I'd like to spend maybe $120 for both.

Thanks again for your thoughts.
 
Heres the one I'm thinking of getting for the steering.......
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDAM5&P=7

digital, coreless motor, good torque, and fastest on the market. What do you think?

Can anyone explain or link an explanation of connector types? "S", "J", or "Z" ?? Which of these would work on the M8?
 
don't worry about the connectors. just make sure the polarity on the wires is correct. you should be safe with this servo if you are using it with your M8 receiver.
 
* Will I get better performance from a digital servo?

you get more precise performance w/ digital servos and they usually have higher speed/torque ratings.....SET YOUR END POINT ADJUSTMENTS CORRECTLY or you will fry them quick.....first hand exp talking on that one...


* How do I know if my AT-M8 has the Z connector type? (It has a black antenna w/blue screen)

you can get any type of connector servo and the only difference will be this plastic tab on the side...just shave it off...I do all mine anyway.....also like mentioned before check the polarity of the wires...make sure signal is signal and power is power yadda yadda yadda....


* I should be looking for Torque over 100 oz-in? @6V
(I wouldn't think this would be as important for the throttle)

not so much for throttle but for braking...you want the torque rating to be strong so your brakes don't get sloppy.....


* And speed less than .15/ 60 degrees? @6V

that's a good base point...try and get faster servos...I don't run on road nitro either but for buggies I look for .12 for steering and .1 or faster for throttle

* Does anyone remember which RC Mag had the servo shootout?

I don't read mags


When I took my JR Z590 servo out after a season of racing I could feel the play in the gears, so I don't think I want to go aluminum. Is any particular brand more reliable? I'd like to spend maybe $120 for both.

You do want metal gears...they may have some play in em but that is probably due to lack of motor torque.....at 120 for both check out th eHitec's someone posted a link to above.....
 
I use this servo for TC steering:
http://www.hitecrcd.com/Servos/hs635HB.htm

For TC throttle/brake I use this one:
http://www.hitecrcd.com/Servos/hs322hd.htm

They are non-digital, inexpensive, and I have found them to be more than adequate. The standard servo has more than enough power to lock up four foams under braking. These servos have stood up to some fierce crashes in my first touring car and they are now in the R40 I just built.

Digital servos will draw motor current from your battery pack. Your mileage may vary.
 
That is true. Digital servos will draw more but for a race application, I now bring 2 battery packs. One for practice/qualifiyers adn the second is strictly for the main. Also bring the peak charger just in case. Also good if you do a lot of practice runs. It's a must for me since my battery packs for the serpent are only 750mah (I think).
 
I'd still carry 2 packs and keep one just for the main. It's a good pratice and fairly common at the track.
 
Thanks for the help everyone. I've learned alot about servos in the past 3 days. These are the ones I've decided on, ordering them in the morning.....

STEERING
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000100496&I=LXDAM5&P=K
This one is digital and coreless, ultra-fast response time of .06 seconds, with 115 oz-in torque. Good holding power. $100

THROTTLE
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000100496&I=LXCHB5&P=K
this one is a lighter plastic-gear analog 3-pole servo with a not-too-shabby speed of .14 sec and 55 oz-in of torque. $22. I thought one digital and one analog wouldn't drain my 1000-1100 nimh pack too bad. (Even this cheaper throttle servo is an improvement over the JR Z270 1.9 sec / 45 oz-in torque, which I thought was adequate.)

I liked the Hitec specs and prices too, but wanted to stay within the same brand for my first-time around with the Airtronics M8 Radio/DSM.
 
you really want a faster throttle / brake servo.....I'd run that airtronics for throttle...nice transit time.....steering servos are actually not as fast as T/B servos on pro setups.....throttle response (at least in 1/8 scale Off-road) is more critical than super fast steering.....
 
I like the KO ICS servos like the 2343/2363 ones, fast and precise. They're slightly more $ but they have a 25% powerdown feature if the servo gets hung up like an unproperly set end point. This will prevent the servo from burning itself out
 
does the powerdown feature only work if you're using the KO radio? I know some of their speed/torque features only work if you have their radio set....
 
I have to look into that function. I just put the 2363 in my serpent. It cost a pretty penny ($130) but it was worth the money. Fast, precise, digital ... I'm glad I did it. KO has some really nice products.
 
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