E3003 Upgrade for Nitro HSP Road Car

[Gman18]

Hello! I want to upgrade my servos (E3003) on a HSP Nitro Flying Fish to a better quality component, not necessarily more torque but a little more speed wouldn’t hurt. I would assume it should not require a lot of power to run as it is a nitro car and my batteries are 4 AA. I suppose I can upgrade my batteries I’d need be. Is there a servo (please let me know brand and number) that is similar to E3003 but better quality and possibly last longer too? I have looked and my head is going dizzy reading torque and spec outputs. Not sure what I’m reading. My goal is to be able to go steady in a straight line. Thanks!

 

[tudordewolf]

Hello! I want to upgrade my servos (E3003) on a HSP Nitro Flying Fish to a better quality component, not necessarily more torque but a little more speed wouldn’t hurt. I would assume it should not require a lot of power to run as it is a nitro car and my batteries are 4 AA. I suppose I can upgrade my batteries I’d need be. Is there a servo (please let me know brand and number) that is similar to E3003 but better quality and possibly last longer too? I have looked and my head is going dizzy reading torque and spec outputs. Not sure what I’m reading. My goal is to be able to go steady in a straight line. Thanks!

I would strongly recommend a rechargeable Nimh pack for your battery, 4xAA's bog down if you try to steer and brake at the same time, even with the stock servos. You'll also be able to go out with a full charge every time, instead of burning through AA's and still suffering low power.

Nickel batteries can provide way more current, which is crucial for servo performance and not "browning out" the receiver, which is where the voltage drops so low it loses connection. A 6V hump pack is all but standard for nitros these days.

As for servo upgrades, I'm partial to JX servo PDI-4409MG's. They've got all-metal gears, good self-centering, more than enough strength for the Flying Fish, and are reasonably quick, too.

 

[Gman18]

I would strongly recommend a rechargeable Nimh pack for your battery, 4xAA's bog down if you try to steer and brake at the same time, even with the stock servos. You'll also be able to go out with a full charge every time, instead of burning through AA's and still suffering low power.

Nickel batteries can provide way more current, which is crucial for servo performance and not "browning out" the receiver, which is where the voltage drops so low it loses connection. A 6V hump pack is all but standard for nitros these days.

As for servo upgrades, I'm partial to JX servo PDI-4409MG's. They've got all-metal gears, good self-centering, more than enough strength for the Flying Fish, and are reasonably quick, too.

Thanks, buddy. You always have a VERY helpful answer. I will change

I would strongly recommend a rechargeable Nimh pack for your battery, 4xAA's bog down if you try to steer and brake at the same time, even with the stock servos. You'll also be able to go out with a full charge every time, instead of burning through AA's and still suffering low power.

Nickel batteries can provide way more current, which is crucial for servo performance and not "browning out" the receiver, which is where the voltage drops so low it loses connection. A 6V hump pack is all but standard for nitros these days.

As for servo upgrades, I'm partial to JX servo PDI-4409MG's. They've got all-metal gears, good self-centering, more than enough strength for the Flying Fish, and are reasonably quick, too.

Thanks! I appreciate your help. One more issue resolved!

 

[Gman18]

Thanks, buddy. You always have a VERY helpful answer. I will change

Thanks! I appreciate your help. One more issue resolved!

I bought a few PDI-4409MG and they are not fitting in the steering servo slot of my HSP

I would strongly recommend a rechargeable Nimh pack for your battery, 4xAA's bog down if you try to steer and brake at the same time, even with the stock servos. You'll also be able to go out with a full charge every time, instead of burning through AA's and still suffering low power.

Nickel batteries can provide way more current, which is crucial for servo performance and not "browning out" the receiver, which is where the voltage drops so low it loses connection. A 6V hump pack is all but standard for nitros these days.

As for servo upgrades, I'm partial to JX servo PDI-4409MG's. They've got all-metal gears, good self-centering, more than enough strength for the Flying Fish, and are reasonably quick, too.

I would strongly recommend a rechargeable Nimh pack for your battery, 4xAA's bog down if you try to steer and brake at the same time, even with the stock servos. You'll also be able to go out with a full charge every time, instead of burning through AA's and still suffering low power.

Nickel batteries can provide way more current, which is crucial for servo performance and not "browning out" the receiver, which is where the voltage drops so low it loses connection. A 6V hump pack is all but standard for nitros these days.

As for servo upgrades, I'm partial to JX servo PDI-4409MG's. They've got all-metal gears, good self-centering, more than enough strength for the Flying Fish, and are reasonably quick, too.

I’m not having luck with the PDI-4409MG in my HSP 94122 to replace stock steering servo. The original servo has a standard body length and the wires come out of the servo towards the base which allows it to clear the plastic upper frame on that end. The PDI-4409MG is a shorter servo and the wires come out right in the middle of where the frame support is on that side (facing the battery/receiver box). The frame support is a half inch deep where the servo pushes through and the wires won’t fit in the gap (or fit out the back side)unless I clearance the frame on that side? Anything I’m missing? The stock servo is the top photo and you can see the wires are further down which clear the upper body mount wall. Thanks!

 

[tudordewolf]

I bought a few PDI-4409MG and they are not fitting in the steering servo slot of my HSP




I’m not having luck with the PDI-4409MG in my HSP 94122 to replace stock steering servo. The original servo has a standard body length and the wires come out of the servo towards the base which allows it to clear the plastic upper frame on that end. The PDI-4409MG is a shorter servo and the wires come out right in the middle of where the frame support is on that side (facing the battery/receiver box). The frame support is a half inch deep where the servo pushes through and the wires won’t fit in the gap (or fit out the back side)unless I clearance the frame on that side? Anything I’m missing? The stock servo is the top photo and you can see the wires are further down which clear the upper body mount wall. Thanks!

View attachment 169952

View attachment 169953

You'll need to remove the radio tray, that whole section which holds the receiver and battery, to feed the servo cable into it anyway.

Once you've done this, the servo can "drop in" with its cable clearing that post. I've installed that exact servo in 3x 94122's.

P.S, minor tip- as you can see in the picture above, I've fitted an ever-so-slightly longer linkage to the steering servo. Just one notch up in length for one of the socket ends. I find the stock one too short, such that it forces you to set the center point for the steering with the servo arm leaned slightly forward, which creates asymmetrical endpoints. Ideally you want the servo arm to point straight up when the steering rack is centered, so that it throws the same distance in either direction.

 

[Gman18]

You'll need to remove the radio tray, that whole section which holds the receiver and battery, to feed the servo cable into it anyway.

Once you've done this, the servo can "drop in" with its cable clearing that post. I've installed that exact servo in 3x 94122's.

View attachment 169954

P.S, minor tip- as you can see in the picture above, I've fitted an ever-so-slightly longer linkage to the steering servo. Just one notch up in length for one of the socket ends. I find the stock one too short, such that it forces you to set the center point for the steering with the servo arm leaned slightly forward, which creates asymmetrical endpoints. Ideally you want the servo arm to point straight up when the steering rack is centered, so that it throws the same distance in either direction.

Okay. What I did was put a small amount of packaging tape to hold the wires flat and pushed and it went in. I had to almost remove the top plate and some of the bottom screws around the servo. Thanks!

Okay. What I did was put a small amount of packaging tape to hold the wires flat and pushed and it went in. I had to almost remove the top plate and some of the bottom screws around the servo. Thanks!

Can you provide a tip to center the servo before I screw it to the servo arm? Thanks!

 

[tudordewolf]

Okay. What I did was put a small amount of packaging tape to hold the wires flat and pushed and it went in. I had to almost remove the top plate and some of the bottom screws around the servo. Thanks!

View attachment 169969

Can you provide a tip to center the servo before I screw it to the servo arm? Thanks!

Nice job! If you do remove the top plate, you can tuck the wire behind the post so it doesn't show.

I power it on without the arm, turn on the transmitter and make sure trim is zeroed out so it centers itself, place the arm on it, and then adjust the steering so it's squared up.

The stock linkage doesn't extend far enough to accommodate this without the ends being barely screwed in, I prefer to swap either the center metal piece for a longer one, or one of the sockets on the end.

 

[Gman18]

Thanks again. This is all new to me. I’ve rebuilt real car engines and replaced clutches and brakes but still learning about RC cars. I bought a ARRMA infraction and put on side skirts and wheel tubs and a skin to protect the base of the truck. Having fun with it all but my favorite will always be Nitro.
Here is my Infraction.

 

[gandalfnz]

I have swapped this servo a dozen times on this model, trying different ones.
There is no need to remove the tray, just remove the top and bottom screw holding that post, and maybe a few surrounding it, then just bend the tray up slightly the the post will just pop out. Easy!

Good luck!

 

[Gman18]

I have swapped this servo a dozen times on this model, trying different ones.
There is no need to remove the tray, just remove the top and bottom screw holding that post, and maybe a few surrounding it, then just bend the tray up slightly the the post will just pop out. Easy!

Good luck!

Thanks, buddy. I was able to figure that out when I tried to reassemble. It will be easier the next time! I wish I had a magnetic screwdriver. I have a super nice quality driver but it’s not magnetized.

 

[tudordewolf]

Thanks, buddy. I was able to figure that out when I tried to reassemble. It will be easier the next time! I wish I had a magnetic screwdriver. I have a super nice quality driver but it’s not magnetized.

You might dig a "magnetizer/demagnetizer", it lets you apply (and remove) a temporary magnetic field to any steel tools you have.

It's cheap and completely passive, no power or moving parts.

 

[Gman18]

You might dig a "magnetizer/demagnetizer", it lets you apply (and remove) a temporary magnetic field to any steel tools you have.

It's cheap and completely passive, no power or moving parts.

View attachment 169992

You make my day every time you reply, buddy. I have learned so much in a short time from you.

 

[Gman18]

Follow up on the steering servo installation. I was able to get the short profile servo in place but the figment was too tight for the wires and the servo didn’t function. When I removed the servo and straightened the wires, the servo worked again. I’m not going to dremel out the servo mount to give room for the wires so I will be looking for a normal length servo so the wires will be on the back side of the servo mount. I appreciate all the advice.

 

[Chubaka]

You might dig a "magnetizer/demagnetizer", it lets you apply (and remove) a temporary magnetic field to any steel tools you have.

It's cheap and completely passive, no power or moving parts.

View attachment 169992

Do they make those for steel parts weighing 30-50 IBS? That would be awesome.

 

[Gman18]

Follow up on the steering servo installation. I was able to get the short profile servo in place but the figment was too tight for the wires and the servo didn’t function. When I removed the servo and straightened the wires, the servo worked again. I’m not going to dremel out the servo mount to give room for the wires so will be looking for a normal length servo so the wires will be on the back side of the servo mount. I appreciate all the advice.

 

[tudordewolf]

Follow up on the steering servo installation. I was able to get the short profile servo in place but the figment was too tight for the wires and the servo didn’t function. When I removed the servo and straightened the wires, the servo worked again. I’m not going to dremel out the servo mount to give room for the wires so will be looking for a normal length servo so the wires will be on the back side of the servo mount. I appreciate all the advice.

I'm sorry, I owe you an apology- there appear to be two versions.

The wires on mine come out at the bottom of the servo and cleared the post with no problem. I'm not sure when the change happened, but I purchased 8x of those servos last year and they all fit, I dismantled and re-assembled one of my cars just to take this picture:

Most of the product listings for it also show the wire coming out this way:

 

[Gman18]

I'm sorry, I owe you an apology- there appear to be two versions.

The wires on mine come out at the bottom of the servo and cleared the post with no problem. I'm not sure when the change happened, but I purchased 8x of those servos last year and they all fit, I dismantled and re-assembled one of my cars just to take this picture:
View attachment 170178

Most of the product listings for it also show the wire coming out this way:
View attachment 170179

I'm sorry, I owe you an apology- there appear to be two versions.

The wires on mine come out at the bottom of the servo and cleared the post with no problem. I'm not sure when the change happened, but I purchased 8x of those servos last year and they all fit, I dismantled and re-assembled one of my cars just to take this picture:
View attachment 170178

Most of the product listings for it also show the wire coming out this way:
View attachment 170179

It probably would fit for me if the wires came out around the base of the servo like yours. No worries! I will sell the two that are unopened on Ebay.

 

[Gman18]

It probably would fit for me if the wires came out around the base of the servo like yours. No worries! I will sell the two that are unopened on Ebay.

I would like to try high voltage servos and gyro receiver and assume they won’t work with 4 AA rechargeable batteries. Would a 2 pack 7.4 volt 1500 MAh Li-on T pack battery pack or other high volt Li-on option provide sufficient volts for high voltage servos in my HSP nitro car? I am an idiot when it comes to electricity so this question may be totally stupid for the experts out there.

 

[Slick2500]

I would like to try high voltage servos and gyro receiver and assume they won’t work with 4 AA rechargeable batteries. Would a 2 pack 7.4 volt 1500 MAh Li-on T pack battery pack or other high volt Li-on option provide sufficient volts for high voltage servos in my HSP nitro car? I am an idiot when it comes to electricity so this question may be totally stupid for the experts out there.

It's not so much about volts as it is about amps but a 7.4v li-on should work just fine provided the receiver can handle 7.4v.

 

[Gman18]

It's not so much about volts as it is about amps but a 7.4v li-on should work just fine provided the receiver can handle 7.4v.

Thanks for replying. I will check the receiver requirements.