which connectors should I use?

Welcome to RCTalk

Come join other RC enthusiasts! You'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

CharliesTheMan

Gone - bye bye.
Messages
4,702
Reaction score
0
Location
Alexandria
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
I am just getting into electrics, and of course with my addictive personality, I couldn't just get into electrics with one vehicle, lol or two. I'm building three electric stadium trucks. I'm building two Rustlers and an Associated T4. My question is regarding the connectors that I should use to connect everything. Here's what I have. I would like to standardize the connections as best I can if that makes any sense. I don't want to have different connectors on each car if I can help it, because to switch parts or even batteries from one to the other would be a lot harder. Here's what I have

Rustler 1:
XL-5 speed control
Traxxas Titan 12 turn motor
Venom 6 cell 3300 mah nimh battery pack

Rustler 2:
LRP Quantum Competition electronic speed control
Orion Revolution modified 11x2 motor
6 cell GP 4500 mah nimh battery pack that was built

Associated RC10T4
Castle Creations Sidewinder electronic speed control
CC Sidewinder 4600 kv motor
nimh batteries for now, not sure about cell configuration

I would love to use tamaya connectors for the batteries IF they are capable of handling the power of the above setups. It would make it easier intsead of cutting up batt packs and soldering new connectors, but if that's what it takes to not suffer overheating or pwerloss, I'll do it. I want to use the same connectors on the motors and ESC, so just let me know what I need to get.
 
I think most would prefer to use Dean's plugs. Either the standard or the micro. They are capable of handling more current. Tamiya plugs may overheat and melt and that's not good. I use Dean's on all my packs for my heli and planes.

http://www.wsdeans.com/products/plugs/index.html
 
I can use deans for the batteries and to connect the motor and ESC right?
 
thanks flm,I just ordered 2 packs, 20 pairs
 
Absolutely, Deans.
Just make note when you connect them that you NEVER have the male end, with the prongs, on a battery where it could short out if it hits something metal.
 
ok thanks Rolex I'm glad you said that. Any other tips that I need to consider. I'm going to get a soldering gun later this afternoon. what kind of solder should I use? How about flux?
 
I don't remember what the setup was, off hand, but there's a preferred pin to polarity so they can be swapped around and they're all the same. ie... [l-] (with the upright being + and the sideways being - or vice versa. It allows you to use other peoples chargers or batteries. Someone here will probably know what the preferred set up is.
It's not mandatory, just convenient.
The rosin core solder available at Radio Shack is good stuff. What I ALWAYS use, even for electrical soldering, is a tin of plumbers flux from any hardware store. Dip the end of the wire and the connector in it for a perfect solder flow EVERY time. It will last for years. Deans connectors have some pretty heavy connectors, so make sure you have a good, hot iron.
 
i use alpha metals solder and ruby fluid flux.

i put a dab of solder on the connector, dip the wire in flux and tin it, then redip it in flux and place on the connector.

works great for me.
 
I just got back from HobbyTown. The Deans connectors have the +/- polarity printed on the back of the package now.
 
I've used pretty much every kind of connector out there, R/C wise. I've used the Tamiya types, Lightspeed "zero loss" connectors, and just about all types of Deans (4 pins, micro 2R, and ultra). I've also gone the connector-less route and hardwired.

Of all the options, unless you're seriously racing with a bunch of hacking clowns, the best way is a set of Deans Ultras. I recently ordered 20 pairs for about $12 out of Hong Kong. Got the connectors in less than a week. They're the same exact thing as the "official" Deans connectors; just no fancy packaging. They work just as good as the official plugs, except they're ALOT cheaper. They will also work with the official deans plugs 100%.
 
I'm glad to hear that. I ordered 20 pairs of Deans Ultras off ebay from Chicago, and I will pick up a few pairs tomorrow if I need them for the weekend. I picked up a nice digital soldering iron from Radio Shack and some pretty good solder and flux.
 
You might also want to get a third hand tool to hold the Deans connector and the wire being soldered.
 
I've heard other people recommend the third hands as well, so I'm definitely going to get a set.
 
When you're soldering the connectors, plug them together so the heat won't distort them. Always dedicate one extra pair for this purpose. Plus, it'll make handling the connectors easier (I use a pair of vice grips to hold them when I solder).
 
Deans plugs on all my brushless rigs. (venom if deans not available) But Deans are by far the best so far, but heed Rolex's words. All batteries should be fitted with females, NO exceptions.
 
I have a third hand tool and love it I use it every time I solder up my Deans Plugs and it works great IE no burned finger tips LOL!! Also I would recomend only using plugs for your battery conection and not your motors being that you only take your motor out occasionally to clean it and hard wiring your motor offers less resitance and better performance and it only takes a second with a hot iron to unsolder the motors power wires..
 
Of course if you dont want to change all to deans, buy a lipo for your Sidewinder, put deans on them, and buy a deans to Tamiya lead for charging. No sweat.
 
I've been soldering the last few nights on some practice pieces, and I'm doing pretty good. I had to get a third hand tool and then everything went real smooth. Without the third hand I was having hell.
 

Similar threads

Back
Top