Whatcha Printing?

[WickedFog]

 

[RetroThutmose]

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Is there a method to reinforce that area?

 

[WickedFog]

Is there a method to reinforce that area?

If you make the hole diameter like 2.6mm, an m3 set screw should thread in there just fine, and that should be strong enough to hold a cap on. I wouldn't be scared to do it. What diameter do the pockets the shocks go in need to be? And how deep?

 

[RetroThutmose]

Proof of concept. Walls are 2mm thick. Seems sturdy and 3 more tubes printed together will make it stronger I suspect. Very impressed with the precision of this print. I had read about and seen some YouTube issues with the z axis causing cylinders to have inaccurate dimensions but this is very good.

Ohh I just realized I should make the front tubes shorter to save material.

 

[WickedFog]

Proof of concept. Walls are 2mm thick. Seems sturdy and 3 more tubes printed together will make it stronger I suspect. Very impressed with the precision of this print. I had read about and seen some YouTube issues with the z axis causing cylinders to have inaccurate dimensions but this is very good.

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Ohh I just realized I should make the front tubes shorter to save material.

To hell with material. Its going to cost you maybe $.10 per print to make the tubes all the same size. But besides that, how you gonna hold the cap on? Threaded prints would be ok, but you're going to have to increase the wall thickness. So even more material.

 

[RetroThutmose]

If you make the hole diameter like 2.6mm, an m3 set screw should thread in there just fine, and that should be strong enough to hold a cap on. I wouldn't be scared to do it. What diameter do the pockets the shocks go in need to be? And how deep?

22mm inner diameter, 2mm walls, 118mm tall for some clearance on the rear shocks

 

[RetroThutmose]

To hell with material. Its going to cost you maybe $.10 per print to make the tubes all the same size. But besides that, how you gonna hold the cap on? Threaded prints would be ok, but you're going to have to increase the wall thickness. So even more material.

I'm going to try interrupting threads around the outermost portions of the square and a cap with matching interrupted threads

 

[WickedFog]

I'm going to try interrupting threads around the outermost portions of the square and a cap with matching interrupted threads

Here ya go. Try this. You need an M5x.8 set screw 25mm long and an M5 knob of your choosing.

 

[RetroThutmose]

Here ya go. Try this. You need an M5x.8 set screw 25mm long and an M5 knob of your choosing.
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Wow very cool. I was way overcomplicating my design. Lol. Keep it simple going forward.

 

[majin]

yall are fricking so smart, I'm so lost in these thread types trying to learn about 3d printing, then you guys start throwing up 3d models and such and I'm just blown away, you make it LOOK so easy, then start talking about axis and wall thickness, and i gotta go back to the drawing board again to learn wtf does that mean? I'm afraid i may not be able to jump on the 3d printers as i can't grasp the lingo lol. (Dyscalculia rears its ugly head yet again fml)

 

[WickedFog]

yall are fricking so smart, I'm so lost in these thread types trying to learn about 3d printing, then you guys start throwing up 3d models and such and I'm just blown away, you make it LOOK so easy, then start talking about axis and wall thickness, and i gotta go back to the drawing board again to learn wtf does that mean? I'm afraid i may not be able to jump on the 3d printers as i can't grasp the lingo lol. (Dyscalculia rears its ugly head yet again fml)

20 minutes on the phone with ya and I'd have you done modeling that thing up bro. Don't you be scared. I've spent DAYS on the horn talking folks through not only assembling 3d printers from kits, but starting their first print and setting up their slicers and other chit like modeling up parts.

 

[WickedFog]

Wow very cool. I was way overcomplicating my design. Lol. Keep it simple going forward.

It was your killer idea. That thing will be a hit at the tracks, when you start whipping out your various shock tanks

 

[RetroThutmose]

yall are fricking so smart, I'm so lost in these thread types trying to learn about 3d printing, then you guys start throwing up 3d models and such and I'm just blown away, you make it LOOK so easy, then start talking about axis and wall thickness, and i gotta go back to the drawing board again to learn wtf does that mean? I'm afraid i may not be able to jump on the 3d printers as i can't grasp the lingo lol. (Dyscalculia rears its ugly head yet again fml)

I've just started this journey. I've spent a few hours doing tutorials in fusion 360 and my printer came Friday morning. The hardest part of learning anything new is taking that first step. Don't be intimidated, I've made tons of mistakes but they are part of the learning process.

 

[WickedFog]

I've just started this journey. I've spent a few hours doing tutorials in fusion 360 and my printer came Friday morning. The hardest part of learning anything new is taking that first step. Don't be intimidated, I've made tons of mistakes but they are part of the learning process.

Well, your print above looks amazing, so you got it dialed in pretty good. The only thing I would suggest is use random start/stop points to get rid of that line running down the side. It will randomize it so you don't see that line. Other than that, the rest looks perfect.

 

[TeknoJ]

I printed some go pro mounts so I can shoot some better videos.
Some general fit up is always required.

The knuckles don’t really do it for me, I have a hard time operating a transmitter with that in either hand. The hat clip though…. Yea I think that is the one.

 

[RetroThutmose]

This is awesome. Thank you so much @WickedFog when printing these does orientation matter? Would there be any benefit to printing on it's side? I printed it vertically thinking I wouldn't need any support structure.

 

[xjtorc]

Messy tool drawer be gone!

Someone else’s design from Thingiverse. Printed beautifully. It’s been sitting in my backlog for a LONG time so I’m pretty happy to finally bang it out.

 

[RetroThutmose]

The purple is elegoo PLA PRO and the orange is regular PLA. Both printed the same way. Purple really mirrors the textured build plate, no lines visible. Orange you can see the lines and some of the texture. On the underside (printed on top) the textures are similar but I think the regular PLA has more uniformity in the print. I did recalibrate the plate just before printing so there could be some user error to explain it. But it's variables you can feel with your fingernails. From your eyes they look the same.

 

[WickedFog]

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This is awesome. Thank you so much @WickedFog when printing these does orientation matter? Would there be any benefit to printing on it's side? I printed it vertically thinking I wouldn't need any support structure.

You're very welcome.

Vertically is the ideal way on that. No benefit at all printing on its side. Always look at the design and align it so you don't need supports. Or align it so any area that does need supports isn't going to matter if it looks bad, because the supported area will look like ass after pulling supports off. Unless you happen to have a machine that has dual filament capabilities to use dissovable support material.

 

[WickedFog]

The purple is elegoo PLA PRO and the orange is regular PLA. Both printed the same way. Purple really mirrors the textured build plate, no lines visible. Orange you can see the lines and some of the texture. On the underside (printed on top) the textures are similar but I think the regular PLA has more uniformity in the print. I did recalibrate the plate just before printing so there could be some user error to explain it. But it's variables you can feel with your fingernails. From your eyes they look the same.
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Your prints are looking great!