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Whatcha Printing?

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Test fit #2 and even more aggressive servo covers:
1000019017.webp


Just needs a minor adjustment and it'll be flush, the original was hardly aerodynamic...
1000019018.webp


1000019015.webp

For aerodynamics, looks, and keeping oil out.
 
I think I had it pretty high, like 1.5 mm maybe
I run mine a lot higher than that for PET. When you're printing, the filament being pushed into the nozzle will create a high pressure zone behind the nozzle. When you stop pressing the filament through, the pressure in there will still ooze filament out. So you need to relieve that pressure by creating a vacuum. The best way to do that is suck that filament back out of there quickly.

A little coast at the end of the path will help as well. It will not only bleed off any filament still trying to extrude, but it will also wipe the tip. This will all help to eliminate stringing.

Best thing to do is find a small test print that will have small towers. You want something that will cause the printer to print one spot, then jump to another spot quickly. Play with your retraction distance and coast settings until you get a clean print. Just watch you aren't leaving little tiny gaps everywhere due to too much retraction, or too long a coast setting. I typically run around 5mm retraction and .2mm to .5mm coast with PET if I remember correctly. But it's been awhile since I printed PET.
 
I run mine a lot higher than that for PET. When you're printing, the filament being pushed into the nozzle will create a high pressure zone behind the nozzle. When you stop pressing the filament through, the pressure in there will still ooze filament out. So you need to relieve that pressure by creating a vacuum. The best way to do that is suck that filament back out of there quickly.

A little coast at the end of the path will help as well. It will not only bleed off any filament still trying to extrude, but it will also wipe the tip. This will all help to eliminate stringing.

Best thing to do is find a small test print that will have small towers. You want something that will cause the printer to print one spot, then jump to another spot quickly. Play with your retraction distance and coast settings until you get a clean print. Just watch you aren't leaving little tiny gaps everywhere due to too much retraction, or too long a coast setting. I typically run around 5mm retraction and .2mm to .5mm coast with PET if I remember correctly. But it's been awhile since I printed PET.
Thanks for the tips, I have some mud boss mud plugs that are perfect to test those settings. Flat disk with 4 pegs sticking out
 
View attachment 246371
1 endoro 24 frame rail. Wonder how it'll work out.
Considering a stock SCX24 can fold the stock metal frame rails in half if you get the front wheels in a bind, and the rear gets a good bite... sadly, not very well. Fine for just driving around, as long as one of your axles isn't underdriven. But if you do much crawling, there will come a time when the rails get folded. I have tried 3d printing frame rails, and learned they are fine for shelf queens, but that's about it.
 
Considering a stock SCX24 can fold the stock metal frame rails in half if you get the front wheels in a bind, and the rear gets a good bite... sadly, not very well. Fine for just driving around, as long as one of your axles isn't underdriven. But if you do much crawling, there will come a time when the rails get folded. I have tried 3d printing frame rails, and learned they are fine for shelf queens, but that's about it.
Maybe it's a good pattern for aluminum then.....carbon fiber.

I also just got some petg-gf I was going to try
 
Maybe it's a good pattern for aluminum then.....carbon fiber.

I also just got some petg-gf I was going to try
The narrow areas in front of and behind the skid will be the failure point. Like I said, even the stock SCX24 steel frame rails can easily be folded, and they are C-channel rails, which makes them even stronger.
 
The narrow areas in front of and behind the skid will be the failure point. Like I said, even the stock SCX24 steel frame rails can easily be folded, and they are C-channel rails, which makes them even stronger.
Right, those spots are definitely vulnerable.
 
Considering a stock SCX24 can fold the stock metal frame rails in half if you get the front wheels in a bind, and the rear gets a good bite...
From the @Pat_ranch school of crawling. I present the taco truck.

20210328_212551.webp
 
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