Whatcha Printing?

[RetroThutmose]

I'm glad I finally got my printer on the network to get a real good calibration. Not the most difficult print but really happy with the accuracy and results after getting the filament settings and the machine calibrated.

 

[WickedFog]

I'm glad I finally got my printer on the network to get a real good calibration. Not the most difficult print but really happy with the accuracy and results after getting the filament settings and the machine calibrated.

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What printer is that again?

 

[TeknoJ]

I'm glad I finally got my printer on the network to get a real good calibration. Not the most difficult print but really happy with the accuracy and results after getting the filament settings and the machine calibrated.

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Keep tuning

 

[WickedFog]

I would say the belts need tightened a tad in X and Y if it is a belt driven machine. The layer offsets in the corners and on the sides show a little play somewhere.

 

[WickedFog]

Pay attention to your external corners. If you see any layers poking out, it is because you have something loose, and the slop will cause a bit of layer shifting, depending on which direction the printer is traveling around the perimeter.

Here are some examples from my older than dirt CR10. This printer has been my standard for the older belt driven machines. When you get it dialed in this good, you're set.

Top surface example. It takes a lot of tweaking to get an old ass CR10 based machine to print this purdy. This was my CR10 S5, which has a 500mm x 500mm bed.

 

[TeknoJ]

I got some nylon to make parts for the M-Jet, we successfully printed a dragon with it, then attempting to print a battery hatch for the UCX24 resulted in a total disaster clogged nozzle. After that was cleaned up, I printed a motor mount for the M-Jet with no issues.
I was using the wrong nozzle (.4)
I didn't know to set the cooling fan to max speed.
The travel and print speeds were probably too high.
Still more tuning/parameters to dial in for sure and I have some parts being delivered today that includes the .6 nozzle

 

[WickedFog]

I got some nylon to make parts for the M-Jet, we successfully printed a dragon with it, then attempting to print a battery hatch for the UCX24 resulted in a total disaster clogged nozzle. After that was cleaned up, I printed a motor mount for the M-Jet with no issues.
I was using the wrong nozzle (.4)
I didn't know to set the cooling fan to max speed.
The travel and print speeds were probably too high.
Still more tuning/parameters to dial in for sure and I have some parts being delivered today that includes the .6 nozzle

If you're able to print nylon, you're doing good. That stuff is TOUGH to print. I tried it once, but my bed on the CR10 is only 12v, with no enclosure, etc. I managed to get a good test print, but everything after that was bigger prints, which warped and failed. I just needed an enclosure to maintain a good ambient temp I think. But that's some strong stuff.

 

[RetroThutmose]

What printer is that again?

neptune 4 pro

 

[WickedFog]

neptune 4 pro

I am not familiar with that one. Is that belt driven on X and Y axis or are they linear guides? Either way, check for anything a little loose there.

 

[RetroThutmose]

I am not familiar with that one. Is that belt driven on X and Y axis or are they linear guides? Either way, check for anything a little loose there.

yes belt drives and they did need to be tightened a smidge

 

[WickedFog]

yes belt drives and they did need to be tightened a smidge

Printing speeds will affect corners as well. I have said it for years. These slicing programs need to be made to look at transitions from one direction to another, and they need to slow the movement just before the transitions. CAD/CAM software has been doing that for years.

 

[TeknoJ]

If you're able to print nylon, you're doing good. That stuff is TOUGH to print. I tried it once, but my bed on the CR10 is only 12v, with no enclosure, etc. I managed to get a good test print, but everything after that was bigger prints, which warped and failed. I just needed an enclosure to maintain a good ambient temp I think. But that's some strong stuff.

Alot of my stuff wasn't sticking to the plate and that's where I think it went wrong. I also think an enclosure would be beneficial. The heatbed does a max of 100C. I want to make an enclosure of Plexi glass.
The nylon is too strong, removing support is a nightmare, I need PA support filament if I am going to do this more in the future. I am considering setting up a web page that sells some of my stuff so I can make some extra RC cash. My designs only pertain to the stuff I have though, like some Tekno DB48 body mounts, an ESC mount for my LC12B1, some scx24 stuff, among other things. It is mainly stuff I had to create to make my unique scenarios work.

 

[WickedFog]

Alot of my stuff wasn't sticking to the plate and that's where I think it went wrong. I also think an enclosure would be beneficial. The heatbed does a max of 100C. I want to make an enclosure of Plexi glass.
The nylon is too strong, removing support is a nightmare, I need PA support filament if I am going to do this more in the future. I am considering setting up a web page that sells some of my stuff so I can make some extra RC cash. My designs only pertain to the stuff I have though, like some Tekno DB48 body mounts, an ESC mount for my LC12B1, some scx24 stuff, among other things. It is mainly stuff I had to create to make my unique scenarios work.

Well let me know if you do. I'll toss some stuff your way.

 

[TeknoJ]

Well let me know if you do. I'll toss some stuff your way.

I appreciate that. I want to help people like us complete unique builds, not get rich off of gouging people.

 

[WickedFog]

I appreciate that. I want to help people like us complete unique builds, not get rich off of gouging people.

I don't mind sharing my stuff. It's the selling of my stuff that got me to stop sharing.

 

[TeknoJ]

I don't mind sharing my stuff. It's the selling of my stuff that got me to stop sharing.

That’s what I fear if I sell a design. I’m willing to print parts for someone for a fair fee

 

[WickedFog]

That’s what I fear if I sell a design. I’m willing to print parts for someone for a fair fee

This was the killing blow.

Then, about 6 months later this kit was selling for $60 a pop.

 

[RetroThutmose]

Printing speeds will affect corners as well. I have said it for years. These slicing programs need to be made to look at transitions from one direction to another, and they need to slow the movement just before the transitions. CAD/CAM software has been doing that for years.

seems like that would be a basic feature for cnc machines and other precision cutting tools.

 

[WickedFog]

seems like that would be a basic feature for cnc machines and other precision cutting tools.

It would be a simple feature to add to slicing software too

 

[tudordewolf]

Tailored pants, wheel pants that is, for my P-51. Test fit came out great, second iteration printing now. Making good use of my tiny Photon Zero's print space.

Also whipped up some wing-servo covers, got a great fit on my first go -